85 burb meets 6.0 lq4

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

YouTube- Chevy 350 with Mutha Thumpr cam

If you can get over the whine from i guess the gear drive this is what i want for sound. Look like flowmasters to me. That kinda idle would work too...

Sounds just like my 67 Camaro did with the full pre-made Flowmaster exhaust system on it. 40 series mufflers, 2-1/2" tubing, H-pipe & full tail pipes. Nice Flowmaster sound but a little loud for my wife and the neighbors

I built my own mandrel bent dual 2-1/2" system for my 79 Malibu using the Flowmaster 50 Series SUV performance mufflers instead since it was supposed to be my wife's car. It toned it down a bit but still sounds nice, just a little bit more civilized. If I didn't have the car torn apart for paint right now I would record it and let you hear what it sounds like.

[68GMCCustom]

not sure...but my LSx motor guy suggested 112LSA for me...and he knows I wanted it nasty... but streetable.

by comparison....my cam is a 223/231 @ .050, .610/.617 lift, 112LSA. Using Patriots Gold .650 dual spring kit with bases, titanium retainers, keepers, and seals.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

Still cant beleve i cant find any dang headers that WILL fit. With tons of swaps done on 73-87 trucks no one sells them yet. I dont under stand why they are not made yet. Hell they even sell them for 88-98 trucks. That is crap they skipped one of the most popular body styles. Guess i will have to get fbody headers and hope for the best...

You can do like the third gen F-body guys were doing and modify a set of big block headers to fit. The tube spacing is pretty close to the LS and doesn't take much to make them line up with a set of LS flanges.

I put these on my 67 C10 when it had a big block in it. They fit well and have 1-3/4" tubes which is great for an LQ4.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9011/ $120

Add $40 for the flanges http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTE-H7892/

Just need a little quality time with a cut off saw and a welder.

This is what I will be doing when I get to the LS swap in my 67.

[68GMCCustom]

with all the other work I have to do....thats too much work for me! I'll just buy a set of LS1 swap headers for a 2nd gen.

[okieraptor]

68, that's a good tip.

Now is it long tube headers for torque and Shorties for high rpm horsepower or the other way around?

[85burb]

Comp cams says the 110 will give choppy idle and better low end tq. Does that make cents to any one? I always thought the choppy idle cams were for top end power not low end tq....

[okieraptor]

The amount of "lope" or choppy sound is the amount of lobe seperation you have.

[85burb]

so what they are saying is ones with massive lope have good low end tq? makes no sence...

[okieraptor]

I guess it makes no since to me either. Only hear radical lopes in drag cars.

[68GMCCustom]

check out this arcticle:

cam_lobe_centerline_angle_tech


and this one:
camshaft_lobe_separation_angle_performance_test

[85burb]

Thanks for the info i will have to read friday after work. Sure it will clear some things up for me.

[85burb]

I liked the second article better. Think they both say the same thing tho. Looks like comp was right. Still up in the air about what one. I asked him how comps would compair to the GM Hot Cam. Sent him specs for it and waiting on a reponse. He has ben pretty fast so far. Thanks for the links. Now that i have read that i can remember learning that in school....

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

so what they are saying is ones with massive lope have good low end tq? makes no sence...

The low end torque can be there for a lopey cam with a low LSA if the duration @ .050" isn't too high. Typically the more duration @ .050" lift you have the higher in the RPM range the power band is located. Some modern more aggressive lobe profiles skew this a little but typically it is true.

If you combine the lift & duration of a cam that has good low end torque with a smaller LSA than the cam typically comes with then it can have a more aggressive sounding idle vs. the same cam with a larger LSA.

[85burb]

I sent the specs of the gm hot cam and then he made compleatly custom grind for me. Not sure why he did this but that is what he did. What do yall think. Looks tiny bit bigger gut i not sure.



Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1500-6000/6200
Duration at 050 inch Lift
219 int./228 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.545 int./0.545 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
VALVE OPEN INTAKE 3
VALVE OPEN EXHAUST 46
VALVE CLOSED INTAKE 35
VALVE CLOSED EXHAUST 2-

[85burb]

Well after 12 days at work i fianlly got home. And there was a surprise waiting for me. All the stuff to install my fuel system and carb onto my factory engine. Got fine fuel filter and fittings, carb plate, fuel pump block off plate and SS AN hose cutting tool. Looks like massive wire cutter. Hope it does good job. I may get time to install it this week too. Will take pic of stuff a little later.

[68GMCCustom]

you'll have to re-tune (and possibly re-jet/etc) that carb for your LSx when you install it. But at least you'll have your new fuel system in and taken care of so its not as much of an issue when you do the motor swap.

[85burb]

Do you think it will be pretty close for my elderly 350? All i want to do is set the idle and speed. It has ben so long cents i have adjusted one. What is the best way to set idle mix?

[85burb]

TA DA as my little girl would say....

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

Do you think it will be pretty close for my elderly 350? All i want to do is set the idle and speed. It has ben so long cents i have adjusted one. What is the best way to set idle mix?

It will be a little rich but will work out of the box.

Set the idle mixture screws so you get max vacuum then back it off a little until the vacuum just starts to drop. It will take a couple times back & forth to get them dialed in but this will get you pretty close.

After that you can set your idle speed.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

It will be a little rich but will work out of the box.

Set the idle mixture screws so you get max vacuum then back it off a little until the vacuum just starts to drop. It will take a couple times back & forth to get them dialed in but this will get you pretty close.

After that you can set your idle speed.

When you say back them off is that in or out. You think the main jets will be rich out of box? But they say they are dialed in out of the box....

[68GMCCustom]

...depends on the needs of the motor though and how much power it makes. Your LQ4 will need more fuel then the 350 does.

[85burb]

I know was just kidding. I not going to jet it unless it is way off on my sbc. I will try to wait tell i get it to its permanent home to do that.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

When you say back them off is that in or out. You think the main jets will be rich out of box? But they say they are dialed in out of the box....

You will be leaning out the mixture so to increase vacuum you will be turning the mixture screws clockwise, which will be tightening the screws. When you hit max vacuum then turn them counter clockwise to back them off until the vacuum just starts to drop.

If I remember right they jet the 3310 for a mild 454 and the 1850 for a mild 350 so your jetting will be off a bit. If you re-jet it you may also need to change the squirters and maybe even the pump cam to reduce the pump shot volume so it doesn't rich bog on you. You can look up the jet size, pump cam & squirter size they put on the 1850 and use them as a good guide line to get you by for a while without spending a bunch of money on trial & error getting it right.

[85burb]

My carb has none of them numbers on it. It is a 670 street avenger the part number is 0-80670. It is what holly recs for both my engines. The quad thats on it burns eyes all the time. Idle or driving does not matter it smells like pure gas falling out of tail pipe. Am sure the mains will be closer then what i have now

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

My carb has none of them numbers on it. It is a 670 street avenger the part number is 0-80670. It is what holly recs for both my engines. The quad thats on it burns eyes all the time. Idle or driving does not matter it smells like pure gas falling out of tail pipe. Am sure the mains will be closer then what i have now

It should be closer to right for your 350 then if it is not the 3310 Holley vac sec 750 I thought it was from the pics. I missed where you called out what type of carb it was earlier.

Does yours have secondary jets or a metering plate?