My daily driver/beater : How I turned lemons in lemonade

[bluex]

Here's the stage 2 deluxe kit an you can see those tabs welded to the arms. Along with the big difference between the arm cross member as well.



Sorry for throwing all this in here, I've just wanted trailing arms on my truck for a while so I've looked at all kinds of ways to try an do it.

[Slammed66]

Hey Tx. This is my 64 with an extreme dropmember , 3" spindles and a 26.68 tall tire aired up, there's TONS of clearance underneath ,

So I wouldn't worry about airing up on a lumpy road, I used to run a sectioned crossmember , 3" spindles and bags , and there's WAAAAAY More clearance now...

[bluex]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I guess I'll call Porterbuilt tomorrow and see what they say about selling the crossmember. Pan hard bars and shock mounts aren't any concern to me. That stuff is easy to build.

The 67-72 adjustable cross member was $249 last time I looked to give you a ball park price. I don't see why the 73-87 version would be much more.

Don't mention my name to Dave, he will probably hang up on you....

[SCOTI]

I don't see why the PB unit wouldn't work w/OE arms unless there's an issue w/the fromt mounts width (I know the Spherical joints utilize spacers so it's possible the OE arm bushings are too wide).

[aggie91]

I know this might be more work to do this but here is an idea that I have been kicking around for awhile on the trailing arms under a '73-'87 body.

Start with a lwb 63-72 frame, cut it down to the '73-'87 swb length (117.5" vs the 115" for the 63-72). Cut the rails behind the axle to fit properly with the bed. Cut/modify the front frame horns to bolt the front bumper and core support on, and lastly, fabricate cab mounts. For the rear, you could even do the frame mod that Rob at No Limit did to their JT truck to kick up the rear rails 4" to help get it that much lower.

The side benefit to doing this is that the truck could still be used until the majority of the "new" chassis is done...

[bluex]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I don't see why the PB unit wouldn't work w/OE arms unless there's an issue w/the fromt mounts width (I know the Spherical joints utilize spacers so it's possible the OE arm bushings are too wide).

I had all intentions of using factory arms with my setup mainly to save the cash but also because I thought with some beefing up (and your the one that told me how/where to weld them) they would be plenty strong enough for my plans. I still have the arms I was going to use and I'll dig them out tonight and see how/if they fit into the PB cross member. From the discussions Nate and I had the brackets I mentioned are the only parts that were stopping me from using the factory arms with the remainder of his kit.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bluex

I had all intentions of using factory arms with my setup mainly to save the cash but also because I thought with some beefing up (and your the one that told me how/where to weld them) they would be plenty strong enough for my plans. I still have the arms I was going to use and I'll dig them out tonight and see how/if they fit into the PB cross member. From the discussions Nate and I had the brackets I mentioned are the only parts that were stopping me from using the factory arms with the remainder of his kit.

I'm betting for ease of manufacturing, PB has the same front T/A mounts (dimensions) as their other 6x-72 parts (so about ~3"w). Like TX mentioned.... OE T/A's have their own lower shock mount that could be used w/just a simple upper mount fabbed (a tube/x-member for the upper mounting locations).

The Panhard bar would be similar. NoLimits offer a PHB kit that would prob work well as well as a PB unit if a guy didn't wan't to fab from scratch.

[bluex]

TX - If you havent seen it check out how this guy is doing his rear setup. This could possibly be adapted to these trucks. It could at least give you ideas anyway.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=630982&page=4

He also did a similar setup on his ladies truck here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=531177

[Tx Firefighter]

Made a 100 dollar Craigslist buy this morning.



Not my first choice dream compressor set but for what I paid versus new price, I can listen to them run a few seconds longer to fill my tank.

Then stopped off and bought a big pile of new grade 8 hardware to replenish my shop stock. I suspect this project is going to use more than a few of them.

[Tx Firefighter]

Paul, Scot, Karl, and the rest, while we're talking here, let me ask opinions.

I'm tempering my choices with the timeline that I will get this thing done this winter. Besides suspension, I'm going to need to do firewall mods to address my AC box clearing my front tires, possibly hood hinge mods for the same reason, freshen up my engine, build new trans crossmember and new exhaust and much more. There's a lot of ground to cover in a few months. I just don't want to get bogged down into months of measuring and figuring. Plus, I work on the floor so under truck work isn't pleasant to do.

Am I being a worry wart on the AOL setup in the back ? Setting aside concerns for the safety of the leaf springs being thinned down then cycled up and down a whole bunch, it's far and away the easiest route to go. I could build or buy a notch, weld it in, crossbar brace it, do bag and shock mounts and I'd be finished and onto the next thing.

I currently have a flip kit and no other rear mods. I want my finished ride height to be three inches lower than it is now with the option to air it down a further 2-3 inches.

[tinydb84]

I never cared for the AOL. I bought my 4 link/panhard/upper and lower bag plates delivered for 575 from Custom Connection when they had a sale. I know its more time and work but should result in a much better set up.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Paul, Scot, Karl, and the rest, while we're talking here, let me ask opinions.

I'm tempering my choices with the timeline that I will get this thing done this winter. Besides suspension, I'm going to need to do firewall mods to address my AC box clearing my front tires, possibly hood hinge mods for the same reason, freshen up my engine, build new trans crossmember and new exhaust and much more. There's a lot of ground to cover in a few months. I just don't want to get bogged down into months of measuring and figuring. Plus, I work on the floor so under truck work isn't pleasant to do.

Am I being a worry wart on the AOL setup in the back ? Setting aside concerns for the safety of the leaf springs being thinned down then cycled up and down a whole bunch, it's far and away the easiest route to go. I could build or buy a notch, weld it in, crossbar brace it, do bag and shock mounts and I'd be finished and onto the next thing.

I currently have a flip kit and no other rear mods. I want my finished ride height to be three inches lower than it is now with the option to air it down a further 2-3 inches.

There are too many AOL/2-leaf or 2-link (Billy Bar) set-ups out there to say they don't work. We all know they do. But there is better for sure.

My main concern about the 2-link arrangment is the short length of the bars + their solid attatchment to the rear housing such a short distance away. OE truck-arm 2-links are over twice the length @ 51" C/C of the pivot points & their construction + mounting points allow flex.

The 2-leaf/AOL works except for wheel hop issues. I don't know I would 'worry' about spring breakage unless you used the truck for heavy loads.

What about making your own 2-link/Billy Bars or modifying the Ekstensive units for more articulation? Me personally? I'd purchase a T/A x-member from Summit & see if I could make it work within the 73-87 frame. If not, re-sell the part & view the financial loss as a small learning expense. I'm 100% for the OE T/A arrangement over AOL or Billy Bars.

TX.... I might have an ECE unit you could play with & test.

[aggie91]

I think the AOl set up is by far the simplest way to get low and have adjustability. On the other hand, it has been said to not ride as well as other options. Depending on the budget for this build, you have a ton of options. Part of me wants to say go with the PB Fab set up in the rear too, but that is a bit heavy on the wallet.

No Limit's Fatbar 4-Link rear suspension is $1175 with the air bags and shocks and all brackets. You will have to do some kind of notch on your own.

PB Fab's 4-link rear suspension is complete and a bolt in assembly. No pricing on their web site, but at Pro Performance it is listed as $1800.

PB Fab's Trailing Arm rear suspension for 73-87 trucks is also complete and bolt in. Pro Performance has it listed as $1822 with air bags and shocks. This one will allow you to keep the stock bed floor in place, may not get as low as you want.

Ride Tech has their bolt in $-link kit that has been seen around here and N2TRUXX did a nice write up on his install. List price is $1700 with out shocks, Ride Tech RQ series shocks add another $250.

I would want to ride in a couple of trucks with the different suspensions before I could decided. I have heard that they all are great, each just seems a matter of personal preference.

Price wise from my list above, the No Limit Fatbar would win out. Fab'ing up a notch would be inexpensive and easy for you and your skills.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

...My main concern about the 2-link arrangment is the short length of the bars + their solid attatchment to the rear housing such a short distance away. OE truck-arm 2-links are over twice the length @ 51" C/C of the pivot points & their construction + mounting points allow flex....What about making your own 2-link/Billy Bars or modifying the Ekstensive units for more articulation?

I was not giving much credit to the 2-link, but SCOTI has a point. It would not be to hard to change/fabricate your own 2-link bars using this "johnny joint" on the end that bolts into the front spring hanger.:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1226.html
With your googlefo working, you might even find a better price on the joint. The link are is nothing more then 2" sq tube with a simple axle bracket on the other end. I have even seen the sq tube mounted to the existing leaf spring pad on the rear axle using the u-bolts and plate from the leaf springs.

I might even look into this for my '85 I'm doing. Cost would seam to be much lower...

[Tx Firefighter]

I think I've formed up my plans on the back end. I'm going to heavily copy the Ekstensive kit with a few changes of my own.

2 inch square tubing .250" wall thickness for two link bars.

Johnny Joints with misalignment spacers and square tube bungs on the front ends of the bars.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com.../125RESET.html

I'll make my own step notch with cross braces between them. The commercially sold ones are nothing but a stack of 1/4" plate steel that you weld together like a jigsaw puzzle.

I'll make my own bag brackets

I'll make my own shock mounts

I'll make my own panhard bar setup.

I didn't buy my plasma cutter to use as a foot stool.

To recap, I have on order currently....

-PB Extreme Dropmember
-four Dominator bags
-Little Larry's Four Play valve box
-Ruff Stuff Johnny Joints

I have the compressors on hand. Will need to buy a bunch of 1/4" plate steel and some 2" tubing. Then I'll need fittings, tank, and all the rest of the tidbits to complete the system.

Right or wrong, that's the direction I'm going. Those are some big bad Johnny Joints. I think they will address most of the weakness of the 2 bar configuration.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I think I've formed up my plans on the back end. I'm going to heavily copy the Ekstensive kit with a few changes of my own.
2 inch square tubing .250" wall thickness for two link bars.

Johnny Joints with misalignment spacers and square tube bungs on the front ends of the bars.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com.../125RESET.html

I'll make my own step notch with cross braces between them. The commercially sold ones are nothing but a stack of 1/4" plate steel that you weld together like a jigsaw puzzle.

I'll make my own bag brackets
I'll make my own shock mounts
I'll make my own panhard bar setup.

I didn't buy my plasma cutter to use as a foot stool.

To recap, I have on order currently....

-PB Extreme Dropmember
-four Dominator bags
-Little Larry's Four Play valve box
-Ruff Stuff Johnny Joints

I have the compressors on hand. Will need to buy a bunch of 1/4" plate steel and some 2" tubing. Then I'll need fittings, tank, and all the rest of the tidbits to complete the system.

Right or wrong, that's the direction I'm going. Those are some big bad Johnny Joints. I think they will address most of the weakness of the 2 bar configuration.

This is how I did my 4-bar. Found a system I liked & trusted then searched for someone selling it used. I then tweaked it for improvements & to fit my exact set-ups needs. I have a system that is built w/the best geometry for my height requirements @ pennies on the dollar vs new.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Slammed66

Hey Tx. This is my 64 with an extreme dropmember , 3" spindles and a 26.68 tall tire aired up, there's TONS of clearance underneath ,

So I wouldn't worry about airing up on a lumpy road, I used to run a sectioned crossmember , 3" spindles and bags , and there's WAAAAAY More clearance now...

I forgot the thank you for posting that picture. That gives me confidence that I'm not building a trenching machine out of this thing.

[bluex]

Kevin your plan sounds good to me. I can't say good or bad about any other setup as this will be my first truck with bags as well. All my experience has been helping my friend Matt on his 72 which is a trailing arm setup.

Since I took these pictures I'll post them anyways.







The factory trailing arms fit the Porterbuilt cross member just fine....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bluex

The factory trailing arms fit the Porterbuilt cross member just fine....

I figured they would since both fit OE & ECE x-members. You can improve the OE T/A's w/some short welds down the length of the arms & by replacing the front bushing w/a spherical joint (I believe Hotchkis offers them).

[darkhorse970]

Very interested in this suspension transformation. I will be watching.

[Tx Firefighter]

I appreciate everyone's dialog on the whole subject. Lets hope the path I have chosen works well. I'll get to practice doing plenty of plasma cutting when building the notch.

I also have a press brake ordered which should help me do some better fab work on the notch and bag brackets and such. It will bend 1/4 inch plate up to 12 inches wide.

http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Pr...-Kit_p_40.html

SWAG Off Road 20 TON Press Brake DIY Builder Kit...

I figure between my drill press, plasma cutter, and now this press brake, I should be able to build brackets like these for nothing more than the cost of the raw steel.



And I've got my steering rack coming from Amazon.com

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I also have a press brake ordered which should help me do some better fab work on the notch and bag brackets and such. It will bend 1/4 inch plate up to 12 inches wide.


I figure between my drill press, plasma cutter, and now this press brake, I should be able to build brackets like these for nothing more than the cost of the raw steel.

I'm digging the press brake kit!
What did that puppy set you back? I think I could build the whole setup in a pinch. That might be a nice winter project.
But if I can buy one pretty cheap it would be a nice add to the shop.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I figured they would since both fit OE & ECE x-members. You can improve the OE T/A's w/some short welds down the length of the arms & by replacing the front bushing w/a spherical joint (I believe Hotchkis offers them).

I didnt know about the spherical joints. I had planned on using enery suspension black ploy bushings (which I already have to). A few years ago you told me about beefing up the arms which I was also going to do. I had decided with those two mods they would be fine with my planned use of the truck, plus it made the kit more affordable. It wasnt until after I had my kit minus the tubular arms that I found out they didnt have everything ready to use factory arms on the square kit. I wanted the trailing arms for the better ride and handling, plus they will be fairly unique on a square. I'm not after a frame/rocker dragging truck just a better ride and the ability to get it really low at a show.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bluex

I didnt know about the spherical joints. I had planned on using enery suspension black ploy bushings (which I already have to). A few years ago you told me about beefing up the arms which I was also going to do. I had decided with those two mods they would be fine with my planned use of the truck, plus it made the kit more affordable. It wasnt until after I had my kit minus the tubular arms that I found out they didnt have everything ready to use factory arms on the square kit. I wanted the trailing arms for the better ride and handling, plus they will be fairly unique on a square. I'm not after a frame/rocker dragging truck just a better ride and the ability to get it really low at a show.

I used poly too because they were easier to find vs the OE stuff. 1st choice now would be the spherical because they have even better density vs poly w/much better articulation capabilities.

[Stoney]

Are you buying the press fully welded?