Project Screamer - '72 GMC K2500 + DD 4-53T

[mattfranklin]

Having fun following and looking forward to its completion.

[lower50's]

OHHHH it's getting exciting!!!!

[burnitg]

A bit of a setback...

I've been replacing all the old, hardened hoses on the engine. They look original so they are approaching 40 years old. I had replaced the 2 fuel hoses - from the pump to the secondary filter and from the filter to the head and was removing the turbo oil supply hose when Murphy intervened... The 1/8" NPT X 3/8" inverted flare elbow broke off in the block.




This is a photo of the broken end of the fitting. Unfortunately, my camera chose to focus lower down and the edge is not clear; but, the bright part of the break is where it broke when I attempted to take it apart and the dull part of the break is where it was cracked before. So, this cloud has a silver lining - the fitting was going to fail. It's better to have it fail in my shop than in the middle of nowhere.

Naturally, the fitting is in an inaccessible spot behind the oil cooler.



That's it just above and to the right of the white spot. I had to pull the engine out of the frame and remove the water pump, oil cooler, oil cooler adapter and oil filter to get to the broken fitting. Even with good access, I had a devil of a time getting it out. Whomever put it in the last time put some serious torque on it.

I've ordered replacement fittings from two vendors. Both websites showed the fittings in stock and available. After I placed the first order, I received a "backordered" email. I received another "backordered" email after placing the second order. Who knows, both orders may be coming from the same sub-vendor... At any rate, I probably won't get the fitting until after Thanksgiving.

While I have had things apart, I've been taking care of some issues that I had postponed and blasting and painting the parts that were removed.

One issue that I took care of was the dipstick. When I reversed the oil pan, the existing dipstick was no longer aligned with the oil sump. I drilled and tapped a new hole for the dipstick.



The dipstick is on the right behind the starter and the plugged hole where it was before is on the left. I would like to extend the dipstick so that it will be more accessible, I have a new longer stick; but, I haven't located the 1/2" X 0.035" wall steel tubing that I will need.

Hopefully, I'll have it running in early December.

[Dieselwrencher]

That's a good thing you found that broken fitting now. That would have been no fun to repair after the truck was all assembled.

[lower50's]

Silver lining in deed!! What kind of started are you using?

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Silver lining in deed!! What kind of started are you using?

I’m using a MASCO MA-10882. I've used it to turn the engine over a couple of times but I haven't used it to actually start the engine. I’ll know shortly if it’s up to the task.

I still have the original Delco starter if this one doesn’t have enough torque.

[burnitg]

It’s a runner!

I finally got the engine running. Unfortunately, it won’t start without ether. I think that the rings got stuck while it’s been sitting in my shop.

It runs well, has good oil pressure and makes glorious noise. I think that the new injectors made the difference. It was running poorly before I pulled it (but starting easily). One step forward and two steps back...

The new starter works very well. It spins the engine over rapidly. Of course it has low compression now - I’ll see how well it does when the compression is back to normal. I think that it will be fine.

[OutlawDrifter]

Glad it's running, bummer about the compression!

[lower50's]

I love the sound of those motors. that sucks but I'm sure you will figure it out soon.

[DieselSJ]

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

Good idea. I’ll give it some thought. Because it’s a 2 stroke, I may be able to soak only 2 cylinders at a time. Otherwise, the oil will just go through the intake ports into the air box.

[burnitg]

Can’t stop grinning...

I tested the Jake brakes. They work great. The sound puts a smile on my face every time. Even though I know that I’ll have to overhaul the engine, I can’t stop grinning...

I also tested the mechanical tachometer. It works well - just a little bouncing. I think that a new cable will solve that problem.

[lower50's]

Try putting some thin oil in the tack cable.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by burnitg

I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.

Awesome!

Need some video of it running.

[renegade6]

Try checking for a leaky injector if you have excess fuel.

Just make sure you have a clipboard or something to plug the intake after the first start with a new governor.


QUOTE=burnitg;8443229]I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.[/QUOTE]

[rodbearing]

The governor puts the injector rack at full fuel to get started then backs off after running. You might just want to run it for a while and see if things improve. You might have some stuck piston rings also causing the white smoke. You could check compression and also do a governor/rack adjust. What injectors are you using? Keep up the good work. Greg

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by rodbearing

The governor puts the injector rack at full fuel to get started then backs off after running. You might just want to run it for a while and see if things improve. You might have some stuck piston rings also causing the white smoke. You could check compression and also do a governor/rack adjust. What injectors are you using? Keep up the good work. Greg

I agree, I'd get it running and let it get up to operating temp, let it cool back off, repete, a couple of times and see how it does after that. You most likely have some stuck rigs from it setting.

[burnitg]

I agree that the rings are not perfect; but, I think that they are OK. I have done a compression check and all 4 cylinders meet the minimum for our altitude (9000’). They are all within 20 psi.

The injectors are new 5C60’s. I may have one leaking; but, I would think a leaking injector would cause a miss. Once started, the engine runs smoothly.

Once the engine warms up, the white smoke stops.

The rack goes to about half fuel for startup. I know that it starts more easily with less fuel because I tried it. That may be a function of the high altitude.

I always have a piece of aluminum plate large enough to cover the turbo inlet handy when I start the engine after any modification. I don’t want a runaway...

I have started and ran it to operating temperature several times. It does seem to be improving. Ideally, I would run it with a load for several hours. I can’t do that until I get the truck finished as I have no way to provide a load right now.

[Dieselwrencher]

The reason you have less smoke at half rack on start up is because you are introducing less fuel into the cylinder. That white smoke is un burnt fuel. I'm betting it will come out of it once you work it good especially since you say it is already getting better. Just don't let it idle for long periods. That may not help. Idle it up some and that should help prevent washing down the weaker cylinders.

[burnitg]

Starting aids...

Detroit Diesels do not normally have starting aids. The aid that I have seen and heard of most often is a fixed ether injection system. I'm not fan of ether - I think that it is very hard on the engine. For me, it is a last resort.

So, I started thinking about other options. My '91 Dodge W250 CTD and my '61 Ford 641D backhoe have inlet air heaters. I looked into the available heaters and found one that would fit into the air inlet housing.



I purchased the appropriate aluminum bung (M22 X 1.5) and welded it into the air inlet housing. The heater is in the center of the airflow coming from the intercooler - the perfect spot.



I blasted and painted the housing and then re-installed it on the engine.



I'm happy with the way it looks. Now, I have to paint the rest of the engine...

Several years ago, I purchased a set of pristine '72 doors from a member of this board. I installed them to see how they look.




When the rear gap is perfect and they line up with the body lines, the window frame gaps are not even. The window frames are straight, the cab is not. I haven't decided if I will do anything about this or not. I know that the fits were not good from the factory and I know that the previous doors did not fit better.

It offends my sensibilities to make straight window frames curved to fit the cab and I can't see a good way to modify the cab to make it straight...

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the intake heater! Could you fool the eye with the gap difference by trying to move the drip rail in where it is more gappy looking? I've had some that were rolled towards the cab before making the gaps look weird.

[regan wilson]

We took a wood block and a hammer to tune mine into shape. It's easy to do with the windows out. Everything will go back in fine.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by regan wilson

We took a wood block and a hammer to tune mine into shape. It's easy to do with the windows out. Everything will go back in fine.

Regan:

Did the wood block & hammer work on the A pillar?

Thanks,
Burnett

[regan wilson]

I don't think you are going to move the a-pillar.lol
Put the wood block on the edge of the door facing the pillar.
At least you can even up the gap. You might have to go back and spot weld
the frame to the top of the door.