Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[MTCK]

That's interesting. When I swapped in my L29, it wouldn't drop in. I put the mounts on from the original TBI 350 and it went in as smooth as butter. They were almost identical side by side.

[NastyBuzzard]

I am not sure what the differences are between the 454 and the 6.5, I thought there were none as far as mounting goes. Idk, it may be something on my end b/c I did put this all in myself. I swear I measured like 10x to make sure I only had to drill the least amount of times possible. I just need to know if I am using the wrong engine mounts.

So I have some other questions as well.

I remember seeing a lot of these style xmembers with spacers, do I need the spacers? I cant remember if they just spaced down the bolts for easy access, I don't think it actually spaced it from the frame. Just can't remember.



My original plan was to move my shock mount up, mirroring the DS shock mount in front of the axle, then just removing the shock mount on axle to the other side and have both shocks just come out front. However, if I do that I noticed my rear brake proportioning valve (whatever you want to call it, applies more brake to rear with heavier loads.) is right in the way. I kinda wanted to keep it. Is it worth it to keep?



How much exactly do I need to remove from rear of frame and what holes to be drilled? I am trying to finish rear of the frame as far as drilling so I can come back and weld up some unnecessary holes and stuff. Plus I just really want to be done drilling holes in the back of this frame. I am ready to clean it up, paint it and get the bed on.



Which hitch should I use? The one on the far left my friend and I made copying one off another friends squarebody truck. It is pretty hefty. The middle one is from a K5 blazer and the one on the far right is from the 78 1 ton crew 4x4.



Another funny tidbit of info... All the work I did this weekend was with a messed up engine lift. I let my friend borrow it and when I picked it up Saturday it got tipped over and the rod came out the cylinder and spilled fluid everywhere. I stuck it back in and it would lift but sometimes it would leak down and I would have to pump while trying to align. My friend did end up picking me up another one from harbor freight and came and we put it in Sunday. After all the heavy lifting was done of course.



Planning to order the tank, straps and sending unit today.

[jbclassix]

Square body engine mount bracket part numbers for the 6.2

right side 14037878
left side 14071967

There are spacers that go between the block and the brackets for the square bodies as well.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Square body engine mount bracket part numbers for the 6.2

right side 14037878
left side 14071967

There are spacers that go between the block and the brackets for the square bodies as well.

Are there any picture evidence of this anywhere? I am having a tough time finding anything.

[jbclassix]

Those should just be the part numbers stamped on the brackets. I used an old reference book I have for the military CUCV's which has a lot of crossover part numbers for GM

[NastyBuzzard]

I am finding them for sale on gm parts sites. I found a reference picture which I did see some type of shim between the mount and the block but no part number for it. I have talked to several people with 6.2s, 6.5s even swaps into squares and no one has mentioned them. They all say bolts right in like a 350.

[daddyjeep]

I had to modify my hitch after shortening the frame. I ended up cutting about 3 1/2" off of the back of the frame and since I still don't have a proper 6' bed I am not even sure that is correct. I cut one of the mounting tabs off of the hitch and relocated it a couple inches forward. I also had to clearance the hitch to clear the spring mount. Maybe the blazer hitch would fit better than one for a 1 ton. You'll just have to throw them on the frame and see where you are at.

[NastyBuzzard]

Sounds like a plan, I am sure I will have to modify each one in some way. Especially with my drop down perches, I will have to at least do 2 clearance slots. I just mainly need to know how much to cut off rear. Some people say 4 to 4-1/2 inches and some say 6" b/c that is the difference with the beds.

[wildwilly4x4]

Only spacers any of my diesels have had were just the torque arm plates that go between the block and the motor mount cup.

[NastyBuzzard]

I found out the spacers are only for automatics that go in between the engine mount and block. I think that's exactly what you are talking about with the torque mount plates. So not necessary for my NV4500 so do I need taller mounts or something to make up for that space?

[NastyBuzzard]

Here are the torque plates, I have now found a few people who have done something similar at least 3/4 of them said they needed the 6.2 mounts and either these torque plates or 1/8" spacers.







Trying to see how much I need to cut off the rear... Definitely can't do 6" unless I put the blazer tank in the wrong place, which I freaking hope not! Anyone here done a crew cab short bed with blazer tank or what?











Tinkering with sending unit. For some reason the black hose wasn't plugged up, hope that's the right tube, don't see another way.







Weird that it installs facing the inlet instead of facing the cab.






My baby died on me this morning. Just shut off going down the highway and wouldn't start back up. Codes were for cam position sensor and clutch switch.

Had to push it into someones yard... Pulled a muscle too, shes heavy.



Such a sad sight. Hopefully it is an easy fix, going to beach next week so probably wont have time to fix until after.

[daddyjeep]

Sorry to hear about the car. Hopefully it is just the cam sensor, not a big deal.

Here is the back of my frame minus 3 1/2". Looks just about like yours. I still need to shorten that rear section of my bed to get to proper short bed dimensions, but I can measure from end cross member of the bed to the frame to see where it will end up.

[IMG][/IMG]

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah it sucked but just glad it isn't a mechanical problem, well still hoping it isn't but I have codes so hopefully that is what it is. I love that thing, but got beach vacation next week so probably gonna put off fixing it until I get back. I need to fix power steering pump anyways so if I am putting it down to work on it I plan to fix another few things.


Yeah yours does look exactly like mine. I just want to get it cut and get my hitch holes drilled and everything else bc I can't lift bed alone and asking people to come put it on just to take it back off will probably piss them off... I have to be selective when I ask for help. So if you can get your bed back on and check to see if it will work that would be great!!

I just have to be sure I can still mount the bumper and the hitch. I dang sure don't want to put bed on then find out I have to drill holes, it is tough enough drilling them as is!

Also, anyone know what type of clutch & flywheel I will need to use with the 6.5/NV4500. Do I get the 6.5 flywheel and clutch package or what? So far it looks like I am going to have to go with the advanced adapters bellhousing and I know they have some restrictions on size of clutch or something. Trying to get final parts list going so I can start projecting when I will have it running.

[daddyjeep]

I'm pretty sure my bumper isn't going back on without some modifications to the brackets. I plan on building a new bumper anyway just because it is fun. I have my bed on the truck, I just haven't shortened the rear yet. I know I need to shorten it 6" so I can measure clearance to the frame tonight.

[NastyBuzzard]

Oh I was confused there for a second, so you still need to shorten yours the 6" so are you going to move your fuel tank up then? B/c if you cut any more looks like you will be cutting into the xmember.

I don't want a fancy home made bumper, I want a stock bumper on mine. I got the big diamond plate OEM one from my 87 that I want to put on there, it is in excellent shape.

[daddyjeep]

the frame is shortened 3 1/2" , but the bed has NOT been shortened in the rear yet. I can measure from the rear cross member of the bed to the end of the frame to make sure I have the 6" of clearance I need.

[NastyBuzzard]

That's right you didn't swap to a short bed you are shortening your long bed, right? I forgot about that. Don't blame you, if I didn't have a short bed and I had good fab skills I would be doing the same. I just happened to have a short bed.

[daddyjeep]

I would have much rather used a short bed, but was under a time crunch and of course financial constraint. I just made what I had work. I was surprised how easy it was to shorten it. It may be more difficult when I do the body work to make it look nice.

[NastyBuzzard]

My problem is that I am running out of stuff to do unless I buy more stuff or start assembling the whole thing. I need the suspension done and all holes drilled in the frame because I am supposed to get my buddy to come weld up a bunch of unnecessary 2wd holes and a few others.

[NastyBuzzard]

Picked up another front driveshaft today. Still coming up short, only had 2" or so left of travel at stock height, hate to see what happens if any flex happens. So still on the hunt for correct front driveshaft. I presume I need one from SM465/Np208 combo since it should be same length as NV4500/NP208 combo.



Forming the tank straps to fit the tank. Need to come up with some cushion material so it won't be squeaking.



After a lot of measuring between my longbed truck and the short bed for this truck. I decided I can get away with just cutting off 4" of the frame. I did move my cross members up the frame towards the cab just shy of 2" than where stock rear xmember was. I want this extra beef for mounting my big diamond plate bumper and the K30 hitch. If I need to cut some off later it will be easier than adding on to it.





Took tank back out for a paint job. Need to paint the straps too as well as the skid plate. Need to figure out cushioning.



Placing the shock mount on other side of the frame mirroring the stock one or DS.





So what shifter do people use for the NV4500 swap for the transfer case. This is stock shifter for NP208/NP241 but I saw Larry used a different kind, maybe from 205? I want it to work as well as match up like his is, do I need the other shifter assy or just the boot?



Also finally took the Dana 60 dust cover off to see if I have the groove as to easily add the locking hubs. It appears I do.. What do yall think? Still trying to track some down. I found these new ones for $100 on ebay, what yall think?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301826302446...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[NastyBuzzard]

Trimmed the trans cover for the NP208 shifter. I hope its the one I will need to use. I am trying to copy kind of what Dirty Larry did with the Polar Bear Suburban. I will have to get my friend to weld up the excess bit that was already cut out.



Cut the shock mount off the passenger side to move it to driver side. I put it in the vise and reshaped it a bit to fit back on the front side of the axle. I need to know what shocks (cheap ones for fitment only really) to buy to set things up so I can have my friend weld the mount back on the axle.




Engine and trans coming out so wanted to take some more measurements. Since they changed with the drop down perches in the rear moving the axle about an 1" forward.


I need a driveshaft about 80" or so long.





Pinion angle doesn't look the best but not too bad, front isn't quite at max height.








Engine and trans coming out for hopefully the final time!!








Clutch kit I plan on buying comes with everything in one go!





Bellhousing I apparently have to buy....





So I need to figure out what lift pump to buy, I don't think I have one. Also need to figure out if I need an inline filter or if my filter in my sending unit will suffice. I am at the point now I need to start ordering parts to keep things going. Although, I will be gone to the beach all this week. Still need to order the locking hub conversion parts as well. Also need probably to do a good bit of work to the dana 60 as well as all new tie rods and what nots. Also need to find right stuff for the hydroboost set up as well as a "good" steering box. I have one but may need a rebuilt. Probably wouldn't hurt to get another jeep steering shaft as well.

I am seriously considering buying new 4" lift springs for up front, I believe these are rough country brand and are super damn stiff. I also need to order some longer shackle sides/hangers whatever you call them. Something better than the home made temporary ones that I did to get the spring eye off the frame.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Why do you have to buy that bellhousing? Did you try fitting the front driveshaft while everything was in the truck?

[NastyBuzzard]

It's not the front driveshaft that is the problem. It clears it with a few inches to spare so as long as I don't go flexing it out should be fine. The problem is the down pipe for the turbo. I don't want to run it outside the frame, I want to run it inside. No way in hell that would ever clear. Plus making the bastard line to go to that side of the bellhousing or converting to internal slave seems like a hassle.

I just need to be 100% sure what I order will all work and be compatible. That is my main concern.

[NastyBuzzard]

Also, I know they don't make raised steering arms for the Dana 60. I have 4" of lift or so. I need something to make up for that steering wise. I am not doing crossover steering. I know for a driver the stock steering is just fine. So do I need to buy a drop pitman arm? I see they sell some block thing for kingpin but not sure if that is for the xover or what exactly. Trying to get my ducks in a row.

[68Timber]

The factory 6.5 lift pump is supposedly a good one, that's the one 6.2 guys swap in when they want to replace the stock mechanical lift pump. I noticed you're at thedieselplace, the part number should be in FAQ's in the 6.2 forum.