Plus Five

[donandal]

Originally Posted by Iplumb

FYI - Easy on the teflon on those an x male adapters. I have been told many a trans case has been cracked with to much teflon and over tightening.

Looks Great

Mike

Thanks Mike,
these came with a little O-ring so I just used that, and torqued them to
28 lb-ft.
Finally, all of my lines are finished on the truck!

[donandal]

My Vintage Air has an adjustable thermostat for the coolant water temp that controls the second fan. (along with the trinary switch). I made a little case for mounting it, along with this cover. When the engine is running I'll set the temperature, and then paint one of the dots red to indicate the correct position.

[donandal]

I also re-installed the Air conditioner under the dash.
The unit seems pretty nice, but none of the mounts
seemed to fit well, so I made my own.

[donandal]

I also made this escutcheon plate for the lines thru the firewall.

I couldn't deal with the cheap plastic one that cmae with it.

[donandal]

I ordered my wiring harness from Matt's Classic Bowties.

I'm using the Classic update from American autowire.

Expect a lot of questions to follow...

[Advanced Design]

Really nice work donandal. Is the VA one of their direct fit units?

The escutcheon plate you made is a definite improvement over the provided one.

[donandal]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Really nice work donandal. Is the VA one of their direct fit units?

The escutcheon plate you made is a definite improvement over the provided one.

Yeah,
It is the direct fit for the 47-53 truck.
It fits fine in there, a little tight , but fine.
the brackets are kinda crappy though.

I made similar plates for the wiring to pass thru the firewall also.

Thanks!

[donandal]

I received my wiring harness a couple of days ago...
Pretty quick!

I started some preliminary installation tasks.
I made a mount for the fuse panel under the dash near the
driver's kick panel.

I need to paint it flat black, then get to figuring out the wiring.
I expect that to take quite a long time.

[donandal]

OK,
I'm on a layover with some free time...
I don't think American Autowire is open at this hour so I'll ask here.
My wiring instructions have a couple of heavy red wires going to the large Positive stud on the starter solenoid.
[It also has the purple wire for the solenoid from the key going to the solenoid (S) spot on the starter solenoid.] There is also a separate heavy red positive feed from the battery positive terminal to the engine compartment fuse panel as part of the GM wiring package.

With the American Auto wire harness, one of the red wires has a brown fuse-link and connects to "under-dash starter connection plug" at the fuse panel.

The other red wire has a blue fuse-link and runs from the solenoid positive to the alternator output stud.

The fuse links ends connect at the solenoid end according to the instructions. That makes sense to protect the wires.

My question is this. Are the two red connections at the solenoid end connected there, rather than the positive battery post, simply for convenience?

Would there be any harm connecting these two to the battery post instead? My engine has very limited space near the starter.

The starter would then just have the direct connection from the large stud to the battery positive post and a connection for the key at the solenoid (S) small stud.

Thanks.

[Donnie Lee]

Any updates on your fantastic build?

[donandal]

I guess it has been a while.

I've been on vacation, fixing my farm tractor, clearing a new piece of property, blah blah blah.

Should be back on the truck soon.

[donandal]

OK, the weather is a bit cooler and I have some time to get back on the truck.

I finished painting the bottom of the running boards with black tractor enamel.
It was already painted with epoxy, so a couple of coats should do it.

[donandal]

I also finished the heavy gauge supply wiring for the front tilt relay,
the headlight relays, and the horn relay.

I also made a ground bus bar that will be used to run down to the
tilt pivot point and back to the headlights, turn signals,park lights etc.

[Nut Case]

Donandal

Your build is fandamtastic!!!! Question, what's black tractor enamel?

Better than the typical enamel? Rattle can, or Qt-Gal containers?

What do you use to clean up after the paint is applied, or to thin it out?

Do you know the expected life span off the tractor enamel?

I've pirated some of you work to use on my build.

Strong Work!

Keep on keepin on

Nut Case

[donandal]

It's just tractor and implement paint from tractor supply. I've used it in the
past for lawn mower and utility trailers and it holds up very well. I use the
hardener that goes with it, so once it is mixed you use it or toss it. I use cheap brushes and cheap rollers and toss them too. No cleanup!

I installed the stainless step strips onto the running boards today. I made these
a while back.

[donandal]

a couple more...
they are made from brushed stainless steel.

[iowaboynca]

I just read through your build again. Man you've done such awesome and inventive work on this build!

Keep up the good work!

[Iplumb]

Very Nice!

[donandal]

link to trim strips...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=622464

[Tgubser]

Wow! You are very talented and do some amazing work! Looks incredible but those step strips are the icing on top of the cake! Keep up the work it's going to be awesome!

[donandal]

I've finished wiring the heavy wires for the starter and fuse panels, and
will be moving to the rest of the wiring soon.

I started painting the inside of the fenders and other pieces with matte black
tractor enamel. I used a small brush to cover all of the hard to reach areas,
then used a 3 inch roller for a little texture for the rest. Then I installed the
fuel filler door and the cover on the backside that keeps out dirt.

Also got my driveshaft from Denny's driveshaft in Buffalo, and installed that.

[oldman3]

Very nice...Jim

[Zoomin]

Awesome, awesome, AWESOME!!!

Great work, my friend.

[STOCKISH]

I am amazed at the insane amount of talent needed to pull this build off. Great job man, looks amazing.

[donandal]

Thanks everyone,

I've got a quick question.
I am considering some clear chip guard type treatment for
just the lip of the wheel arch areas.

What do you think? I know it has a little bit of orange peel texture
when you see it on new car rockers. I'm fine with that.

How is it applied? Spray on? roller?

Seems to hold up pretty well on new cars.