66 GMC Long to Short LS Swap

[Duncan K]

My wiring harness for the LS is just a birds nest of extra wire. I have the ECU mounted under the dash being the glove box. I put the cab back on the chassis and made a bracket that comes off the back of the motor and in through the firewall to the ECU. This gives me the exact location where the harness plugs in. With that done I pulled the cab off. I pulled each wire out of the plug, back through the birds nest to its source, rerouted it the way I wanted back to the plug, cut it to length and crimped a new pin on it. Just have to get some braided loom to dress it up and protect it now.

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I think I am going to run all the power wires to a relay/fuse box under the hood

[The Rocknrod]

Now that's pretty ingenious. Should work out better than most.

[Braunschweiger]

I agree, damn clever.

[aggie91]

Great idea. I'm going to have to use that someday.

[66C10LB]

Originally Posted by

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I put a new door bottom on it, mounted the striker on the cab and installed the door lock mechanism. With the door closed and locked in place the middle of the door edge did not line up with the cab. I made a relief cut and then welded in a filler to bring the for edge out flush. With that done I mounted the cowl extension and the fender. The door frame fit great everywhere including at the rocker. I cut the skin off the last driver door I attempted to fix and fit it to this one. I tacked it in and hammered over the corners to hold it in place. As per usual, now it fits like crap, the top pulled, and now it doesn't seem to fit at the rocker.

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I really hate doors!!!! Not really sure what I want to do at this point. This has really killed my motivation. as much as I want to do all the work on this truck myself I might have to admit defeat on this one and hire some to fix it. Going to move on to other things and leave the doors alone for a while, again.

I'm with you on that challenges on door skins. I failed on the drivers outer btm, gave up and went on to A-pillars which were no problem. Worked on the passenger door outer bottoms and after a lot of effort finally managed to get good fit/curvature. Now back to try the drivers door again.

[Duncan K]

I keep walking away and working on other things after every failed attempt. I have a big collection of doors now. I feel like I will have the whole truck complete and still be working on getting door skins on!

[The Rocknrod]

Ya but when your done you'll be the best door fixer upper around.

[Braunschweiger]

On my '62, I changed the entire door skin and the bottom on both doors, it's a challenge until all the gaps in the Cap fit again.

[Duncan K]

Finished up work on the LS wiring harness, All cleaned up with fresh braided loom.



Got the firewall painted



Shot the under side of the inner fenders and part of the firewall with Raptor Liner

[aggie91]

Harness and the undercoating on the inner fenders and firewall look great. Nice progress.

[Braunschweiger]

Looks great.

[Duncan K]

Its been a couple month's since I got any time to work on the truck. Managed to get in the shop for a few hours today. Felt great to make a bit of progress. I got the cab back on the chassis for hopefully the last time. Painted the inner fenders, rad support, and a bunch of other parts as well.

[SkinnyG]

I like the white hoop wheels

[Duncan K]

I got the seals installed on the inner fenders. I used stainless safety wire and bent them into staples, worked pretty well.



Got to do some final assembly with freshly painted parts. Bolted up the inner fenders, core support, and the battery tray. Installed the radiator and battery.

With the inner fenders in I now had a place to put a waterproof fuse/relay box. I wired up all the power for the motor and ecu, as well as the fan. Also built a bracket to house a fuse block on the fire wall inside the cab. It sits right on top of the Tac Module for the drive by wire.



Wired power to the ignition switch and turned the key, engine would crank but not start. Spent 2 days trouble shooting only to find out that the "acc" terminal on the ignition switch that I used to signal the main power relay loses power when you turn the key to crank the starter. Switched the signal wire over to the ignition terminal and it fired right up.

I wired up the OBD2 port so I could hook up my laptop with HPTuners to monitor oil pressure and coolant temp. I let the motor run until it hit 108 degrees celsius to confirm the ecu would trigger the fan relay. It takes a long time for it to hit 108! Fan kicked in, so all engine wiring is now complete. Still need to run some heavier ground and power cables from the battery.

[rodstored-72]

very nice!!... wiring looks really good, you indicated that you wired up the OBD2 port? I am in the process of getting mine dialed in (obd2 port) and in need of adding a 120ohm resistor... did you have to do this? if so, would you be willing to elaborate on the process (steps) that you did??...
really nice build!

[Duncan K]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

very nice!!... wiring looks really good, you indicated that you wired up the OBD2 port? I am in the process of getting mine dialed in (obd2 port) and in need of adding a 120ohm resistor... did you have to do this? if so, would you be willing to elaborate on the process (steps) that you did??...
really nice build!

I did not have to add a resistor to mine

[rodstored-72]

hhmmm..ok... I just added a 120ohm resistor to my OBD2 port end. It was a bit nerve racking as those data wires are pretty delicate! ..LOL! I get a good ohm range now: 62.3-62.5 at the port. the god thing is now my DD das BIM appears to be working (communicating with ECM) now!

by chance did you do anything related to your pedal wires?

[Duncan K]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

hhmmm..ok... I just added a 120ohm resistor to my OBD2 port end. It was a bit nerve racking as those data wires are pretty delicate! ..LOL! I get a good ohm range now: 62.3-62.5 at the port. the god thing is now my DD das BIM appears to be working (communicating with ECM) now!

by chance did you do anything related to your pedal wires?

I haven't touched the pedal wires yet, but I will have to lengthen them a little to tuck them up out of the way

[rodstored-72]

duncan, thank you for the reply, I am wondering if you have a "plan of attack" related to the pedal wires? I swapped a '13 into my '86 and have used all the factory harness & connector(s) IE: X109 connector which includes the pedal wires. I am curious to see what others are doing related to the pedal wires.
thanks again..

[Duncan K]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

duncan, thank you for the reply, I am wondering if you have a "plan of attack" related to the pedal wires? I swapped a '13 into my '86 and have used all the factory harness & connector(s) IE: X109 connector which includes the pedal wires. I am curious to see what others are doing related to the pedal wires.
thanks again..

I had to lengthen the wires by about 6 inches to route them up out of sight. Wrapped them up in braided loom and ran them up high on the firewall over to the Tac Module mounted behind the glove box

[Duncan K]

I re-sprayed the interior after getting the colour tweaked a bit. Painted the glove box lid, heater control, ash tray and the steering column at the same time. Painted the pedal assemblies, e brake handle and a pile of other small parts as well. Got everything installed in the interior.



Under the hood I got the steering, brakes and transmission linkage reassembled with all the newly painted bits. Bolted up the hood hinges as well.



Made up a spring stretcher so I could sandblast and paint the hood hinge springs

[rodstored-72]

duncan, thanks for the reply. your routing and tideness looks very nice! wondering... so are your pedal wires continuous from the ECM to the tac/pedal conn.? when you lengthened them did you use same gauge and color or ???

thank you again for your time

[Duncan K]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

duncan, thanks for the reply. your routing and tideness looks very nice! wondering... so are your pedal wires continuous from the ECM to the tac/pedal conn.? when you lengthened them did you use same gauge and color or ???

thank you again for your time

Yes, they are continuos. I used the same gauge wire, but all one colour, spliced right in the middle of the harness

[Duncan K]

Its been ridiculously cold here the last week which makes staying warm in the shop very inviting. Got some time to do a little machining project. Made some brake line clamps out of aluminum. Had to replace a leaky T fitting on the back axle for the rear brake lines. Secured the lines down the frame rail with the new brackets and got everything bled.



My front passenger fender had a big long flat spot all the way down the top of the front half. My hammer and dolly skills aren't that great yet so I decided it would be easier to just replace the damaged section. I found a fender with a good front half, chopped them up and made to into one.

[rodstored-72]

nice job!!! good progress