SkinnyG's '61 Apache

[SkinnyG]

Fabricated an oil sender adapter so I could feed the turbo.

The LS uses a 16mm x 1.5 thread and a sealing washer. I turned half of some 1" steel down to 5/8" and threaded it, then bored the other end and threaded it as well, then drilled and tapped 1/8"NPT at an angle such that I can easily thread the adapter and sensor into the block, then thread an 1/8"NPT 45° in there to better reach the turbo feed.



Also put the rad in to measure fan clearance. I have just under 4" to the stub of where the fan clutch was, so I'm going to need a thin electric. But, if I can find one, I should be able to squeeze the engine oil cooler behind that.

If I can't find one I like, I could probably relocate the trans cooler, run a thinner rad-spacer-back-inator and gain maybe another 1/2" of fan room.

Also fabricated a bracket for the AC Drier. This will nestle neatly in the crook of the turbo compressor piping, right beside the radiator. Made out of some 2-1/2" exhaust pipe and some 1/2" square tube.

[cwcarpenter98]

Dadgum, that's a lot of small bits and pieces to be fabricated. I like where it's heading!

[SkinnyG]

Added a -8AN fitting to the fuel line. Due to the proximity to the alternator, I can't see a super effective way to convert to return style. Though I suppose I could return out the back of the fuel rails now that I think about it....



And I started fabricating a shroud for the cooling fan. Made out of oven.

[SkinnyG]

Which sucked. I mis-measured, and cut the hole in a spot that interferes with the water pump.

So I made another one. Made from Corolla roof.





Also made up some AN hoses to connect the oil cooler to the motor.



That completed mounting the Intercooler, Trans cooler, A/C condenser, P/S cooler, Radiator, and engine oil cooler, all where only the radiator sat alone.

Next I need to finish the A/C hoses, and then the cab will come off. Still waiting on rust panels though.

Also gazed upon the beauty of the PQY fuel pressure regulator, a favourite of the Sloppy Mechanics folks.



Feeling a bit overwhelmed with the magnitude of this project, too. I'm thinking I've bitten off more than I can chew.

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

...I'm thinking I've bitten off more than I can chew.

No way

[SkinnyG]

"No way" meaning "yes, yes you have,"

Or "no way" meaning "no you haven't; how can you even be thinking that?"

I'm not quitting.

With each project vehicle I've done, I've learned more and more, and with this one, I am much more aware of how ALL the changes I want to make affect ALL the other changes, and if I don't have this thoroughly planned out, I can screw myself by going too far down a path without keeping in mind ALL that I have to do.

And there is so much more I have to do, all of which I need to keep in mind while I do it.

It's a bit overwhelming if I stop to think about it.

Today I made a PTFE fuel line for the regulator to the fuel rail. I also have many many perforations in my hand now, too.

[jkeating1]

No way, meaning, no you haven’t-how can you even be thinking that. Because—V8 Firefly.

[SkinnyG]

Took a breather for most of the summer, and did a wack of house renovations that have been nagging me for years. Also did some home ethernet networking and such, relocating the router, adding a switch, connecting my shop, and 'net to the tv and game console. Yay!

When I finally got back into the shop, I did a bunch of tidying and organizing just to be around the '61 and remember where I left off, and wrap my head around where I was months ago.

I crimped together the AC hoses from the condenser to the drier, and from the drier to the bulkhead fitting, and from the bulkhead fitting to the under-dash unit. Then crimped the hoses from the under-dash unit to the bulkhead fitting, but I am going to need a longer hose to connect to the compressor. I will likely need to modify the fittings at the compressor, but to fit the compressor, I need to cut a notch out of the frame. Good times.


Drier is not connected until final assembly and filling.




I am very pleased that the factory heater is very compact. Or at least - in the engine bay.




Compressor fittings are really designed for a top-mount compressor. They will be modified.

[SkinnyG]

Went to pick up a longer return hose for the A/C, and while I was waiting for them to cut the hose to length, my Lotus Super 7 replica got driven into. Minor damage (numerous cracks on a rear fender), but I'm currently repairing it. Hopefully paint by tomorrow, then back on the Apache.

[SkinnyG]

Video, though it's not related to the truck, other than this repair got in the way of working on the truck. Now, back to working on the truck:

My Super 7 got hit in a parking lot! - YouTube

[SkinnyG]

AC bulkhead fittings:



Fabricated a slightly domed patch to cover where I cut the inner fender to clear 4" exhaust:



Patched the leading edge of the passenger inner fender and part of battery mount:



Sliced the frame to clear the AC compressor (will box the hole once the engine is out):

[SkinnyG]

And now, really digging into the nasty:

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Sliced the frame to clear the AC compressor (will box the hole once the engine is out):

Did you install the compressor w/the motor already installed? Looks tight & was wondering about servicing.

[SkinnyG]

I did not remove the motor to install the compressor. I only cut enough of the frame to physically wrestle the compressor in there as if to replace it in the vehicle.

I'm totally with you on serviceability. The more crazy projects I build, the more important "if I ever have to replace this in the future" becomes.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I did not remove the motor to install the compressor. I only cut enough of the frame to physically wrestle the compressor in there as if to replace it in the vehicle.

I'm totally with you on serviceability. The more crazy projects I build, the more important "if I ever have to replace this in the future" becomes.

A main focus for myself as well.

[SkinnyG]

My last project was this V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint). It takes over two hours to change spark plugs - half come out the top, and half come out the bottom (but it CAN be done - some of them require a stubby wrench on the spark plug socket hex). The distributor can actually physically be removed in car, as long as you take the cap AND rotor off.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

My last project was this V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint). It takes over two hours to change spark plugs - half come out the top, and half come out the bottom (but it CAN be done - some of them require a stubby wrench on the spark plug socket hex). The distributor can actually physically be removed in car, as long as you take the cap AND rotor off.

Yes sir.... Familiar w/the project .
All your stuff is good reading & sound info. Your students are lucky to have someone educate them on 'thought' as part of the mechanics/wrenching.

[SkinnyG]

Cab mount fitted, but not welded yet. Years of collected muck rusted out the cab floor support. Also added a crush tube for the cab mount, as you're -supposed- to do that when you run a bolt through tubing.

At this point, I significantly less inclined to strip it all down and do a thorough paint job. I'm not enjoying this as much as I thought I would. There is something to be said about just keeping it "good enough."

[SkinnyG]

I take it all back. I thoroughly enjoyed blasting the cab today.

For the best repair, the inside should be epoxy primed. For the best application of primer, that meant blasting.

Since I -bought- a pressure-pot sand blaster, I figured I would blast and prime in convenient piece-meal portions. Today I dealt with the area I am dealing with. Once the front cab support is in, I'll likely drag it outside again to blast the rear cab support area, then put the floor in. I'm dealing with each cab support individually to (in my mind) minimize any movement of the cab as metal is cut out.

Why not farm out the blasting? I was quoted $1000 to $1800 to blast everything in the truck. And I'd still need to get parts blasted again as I open them up. My labour is free.

Pictures in no particular order:

[SkinnyG]

I changed my tactic a bit. I think I was over-thinking things a bit, and trying to do things to 1/1000" of perfection that the machinist side of my head wants, and over-looking the 3/16" perfection that Chevy had back in 1961. And that might be pretty generous on the 3/16".

I ended up cutting out the rear cab support, trimmed the rest of the floor to fit the patch panel, and then spent probably three hours making the rear cab support fit. And the inner-rocker/floor-section needed some love at the firewall. No aftermarket panels fit correctly, you just have to accept that going in.

Should be ready for some blasting at the rear cab support tomorrow, some epoxy primer, and then weld it all together.

[SkinnyG]

[SkinnyG]

Finally produced the video on coolers and whatnot:

'61 C10 Apache - Part 12: Coolers and AC! -...

[88Stanger]

Enjoying your adventure here. We are close to the same place in build, rust repair .... so much fun.....
Looking good!

[SkinnyG]

This just in:

A heat gun and an oscillating saw with a scraper peel undercoating off just like the dubious meat stick at the Donair shop.

[SkinnyG]

Fitted the passenger side inner-rocker/floor-section, also fitted the front and rear cab supports.



The panels needed the toe part cut and re-welded to fit the truck, as well as behind the seat to line up with the existing floor. The cab support holes needed to be moved as well. You need to just accept that the panels don't fit "out of the box," but it's still easier than fabricating your own from scratch. At least, that's what I keep telling myself.





Tomorrow, if it doesn't rain, I'll blast all the exposed metal so I can reassemble everything. If it does rain, I'll just epoxy prime the mounts and parts get get hidden in assembly. You can see the one I painted the other day - on it I also welded up the 63+ cab mounting hole, and added a bigger drain at the small end. I added a sleeve to the cab mount bolt hole, so it doesn't crush.