72 C10 for my 25th wedding anniversary

[raggedjim]

I'm just a bit jealous about the lift...

Trucks are still out there but the owners have gotten crazy on the prices. i had a woman tell me she wanted $7,500 for a long wheel base that needed all the standard rust repair, didn't run, and had a 307 in it. Not sure why she thought it was a good price.

Good luck, Rg

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

I'm just a bit jealous about the lift...

Trucks are still out there but the owners have gotten crazy on the prices. i had a woman tell me she wanted $7,500 for a long wheel base that needed all the standard rust repair, didn't run, and had a 307 in it. Not sure why she thought it was a good price.

Good luck, Rg

Actually my wife deserves the credit for the purchase of the lift.
A few years back I had saved up some cash for a new lift, but my wife convinced me to buy the T56 Magnum 6 speed. This spring she was talking to one of the guys where she works about wanting to buy me a lift. As it turns out he knew a guy that had purchased 4 used lifts as a package, but was only going to install 2.
She made a deal to buy one if he would be willing to deliver it , and the rest is history as they say.
She’s great that way, very supportive, shares some of the same passion for the hobby.


Here in Minnesota, with the winters and road salt , most trucks are too far gone to bring back. A project worth saving is often from a different state , harder to find, and then like you say people want crazy money now.
Something will come up, not in a big hurry

[sfont66]

Small update:
Summer and Fall were very busy with projects, chores, and the like. And that continues in the winter months. It’s cold here, very cold , last weekend we had temperatures of-30 and the wind made it feel colder than that.
My work truck needs a set of rear leaf springs,the drivers side sags a lot. I probably carry too many tools with me, but it’s better to have it with, than to need it and not have it.
It’s possible a set of air bags would help, but I don’t have any experience with them.
I will have to do a bit of research, to see which way is the best option.

Anyway I still want to get back to the 72 before spring, a few things on the list for the immediate future are:
Headlight upgrade
New front tires
Also want new 3 point seat belts, but not sure if I will get to these this year.

I did pick up the core support filler panels from CTP (classic truck products)
I have seen these on trucks for many years, and they look great. At the shows and in pics everyone’s trucks are very clean, my thoughts turn to how are they keeping the core support looking good? I can only guess that they are removing the panels to clean up the bugs that always get smashed in the radiator and front of the core support.
I going to install them, and see how I like them. I am doing this primarily for the looks. I have heard that some people have benefited from better engine cooling after installing them, but I have never had cooling issues even on hot days.
Guys down south or out west running A/C in hot weather could see some benefit .
More in a bit….

[sfont66]

A bit more
Late last fall I was feeling like I could still get a little more power out of the 5.3.
So I was thinking about having the heads milled to bump up the compression. I even went as far as calling my son to see if his machinist would be able to do it.
It would have made a nice winter project……
But then I started thinking about leaving the engine in the truck alone for now, and just build up a short block, and if ready by next winter, pull the existing engine out, swap all the good bolt on stuff and install back in to the truck.
Next thing you know I’m looking for another engine block, and bought another complete aluminum 5.3 L33. I stripped it down to a short block, thinking I would sell everything except the block, crank, and rods. My plan was to bore it out to 3.898 and make it a 5.7 and use the stock crank and rods. But since I was changing pistons and the weight was likely a lot lighter, I would have to have the rotating assembly balanced.
(Can you see the rabbit hole getting deeper?)
Then I thought with the cost of new pistons and rings , reconditioning the rods, and balancing the crank etc, how much more would it be to just buy a stroker kit.
So I started looking at 4” stroker kits, and found that more than a few people didn’t recommend a 4” stroke in a 5.3 because the piston came far enough out of the sleeve it lacked support, making long term durability suffer. Ok , how about a 3.90 stroke crank?, less piston out the bottom , more support, but the cost is nearly the same. So all that work, machining, and expense and in the end it’s really just a 6.2?
What did I do next? Yep I started looking for aluminum 6.2 blocks.
This was a little more fun, they still want a lot for a bare rebuildable aluminum 6.2 block. Until I did a little research I didn’t know the ls3 (car) block shares the same casting numbers as a L92(truck) block.
Up here SUV’s are everywhere.
After some searching, I found a salvage yard with 3 complete engines about 45 minutes away.
More in a bit…..

[sfont66]

A few weeks ago I was left unsupervised, and made a trip to the salvage yard.
I bought the least expensive L92 engine they had. It was being sold as a core, it ran, but was high mileage and had a ticking sound. It was priced below half what others wanted, still I was taking a chance. After getting it home I didn’t have much time to investigate what I had purchased for a couple weeks. I finally had time to break it all the way down to the block.
I had hoped for a better block, but knew it could be hurt too. The number 8 cylinder had damage from the piston top breaking, and part of the top ring broke off as well.
Bummer, it may need a sleeve. The sleeves are thin on these blocks, I don’t think they can take any more than a .020 overbore.
So now I need to find a machine shop that can possibly put a sleeve in this block as well as the rest of the machine work. The sleeves on a Ls aren’t pressed in, they are cast in. To get one out, they have to be bored out.
I won’t be able to decide how far to take this block until I talk to a machine shop
And then all the same questions come up as with the 5.3.
Do I make this engine a stroker 416? What is the price difference?
Don’t know yet, I need to find a good machine shop first.
My wife has said for some time now to just buy a crate Ls3 and put a cam in it and be done.
She may be right, but I probably wouldn’t be able to leave it alone either…..

[sfont66]

I found a little time the other day to try the fit of the CTP filler panels.
They are supposed to fit with minimal adjustment on a OEM core support. I had to replace my core support years ago due to rust below the battery area. On a stock core support you are not typically supposed to have to modify anything.
But the raised portion on the aftermarket support needed to be modified to allow the filler panels to fit properly.
A little cutting, welding and grinding had them fitting much better.
I will have to wait until it warms up again before I can prime and paint them.
I like the look, I do think it will be a pain to clean the bugs off of the radiator and core support with them installed though.

[sfont66]

Panels fit better now, I will probably just paint them a low gloss black when the weather warms up enough.
The snow was all melted and we’ve had some days in the 50’s, but winter came back and gave us another 8” of snow.
It’s been a long winter……

[raggedjim]

Nice work, I had to do the same on my support. You'd think they'd have that figured out by now.

As far as the engine, I feel your pain, I have one that needs a sleeve (or 2)!

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Nice work, I had to do the same on my support. You'd think they'd have that figured out by now.

As far as the engine, I feel your pain, I have one that needs a sleeve (or 2)!

Thanks for the kind words.
Yeah, I don’t know for sure, but I just figured since my core support was not OEM
it caused a fitment issue, not a big deal, though I suppose it could be for others if they were not expecting to have to do much to make them fit.

As far as the engine goes, i haven’t found a machine shop yet that has done a sleeve an a Ls engine in my area. There are a few shops about an hour away that build race engines, I have yet to contact. I’m a little concerned they may be more expensive than I would like, seeing some of their high end builds.
I should probably make some calls, I may be surprised and who knows they may be great guys. I wish I had a couple of referrals, but at least the one shop has been in business for 40 years, and owned by the same family…..

[sfont66]

Had a few hours to spend in the shop the other day, and I started to clean up more parts to sell. I have already sold the 799 heads ,intake, and oil pan off of the l33. I have the L92 intake, oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and a bunch of other parts I don’t need that I should sell as well.
This stuff can take a while to get rid of. The last bunch of stuff sat around probably a year, but it all eventually sold. A lot of people wanted the stuff, but shipping costs are usually a deal breaker, or the drive to come and get it is too far.
I have debated selling the L33 short block and the rec port 823 heads to try to recover a bit of money, but have been waiting until I talk to a machine shop about the plan for the 6.2 block. Once we decide on a plan, I should probably clean out some more of my engine parts I have been saving for another truck.
I have another 350 my sons boss gave me( it’s still at his shop) and the 350 that came out of the 72 C10. It has a set of Brodix heads, Edelbrock intake and carb, Headers, and a few other good parts that probably only have a few thousand miles on them, I hate to sell, but probably should.

Anyway, I was cleaning up the 6.2 block and thought I should plug the AFM oil towers in the block. There are many other ways to do this, but the way I did it only cost $8
I chose to just cut in some threads into the towers using a 3/8-16 tap and 3/8-16x1/2” set screws. No drilling required, just tap the tower out so the set screw is counter sunk slightly when tightened. A piece of tape marking the depth helps make sure all the holes are consistent.
Plugging the towers this way allows the plugs to be removed if ever there is a need to clean out any debris or crud in the future. Of course this is only possible because the engine is completely torn down, and will be going in for more machining anyway and will have a complete cleaning after .

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Had a few hours to spend in the shop the other day, and I started to clean up more parts to sell. I have already sold the 799 heads ,intake, and oil pan off of the l33. I have the L92 intake, oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and a bunch of other parts I don’t need that I should sell as well.
This stuff can take a while to get rid of. The last bunch of stuff sat around probably a year, but it all eventually sold. A lot of people wanted the stuff, but shipping costs are usually a deal breaker, or the drive to come and get it is too far.
I have debated selling the L33 short block and the rec port 823 heads to try to recover a bit of money, but have been waiting until I talk to a machine shop about the plan for the 6.2 block. Once we decide on a plan, I should probably clean out some more of my engine parts I have been saving for another truck.
I have another 350 my sons boss gave me( it’s still at his shop) and the 350 that came out of the 72 C10. It has a set of Brodix heads, Edelbrock intake and carb, Headers, and a few other good parts that probably only have a few thousand miles on them, I hate to sell, but probably should.

Anyway, I was cleaning up the 6.2 block and thought I should plug the AFM oil towers in the block. There are many other ways to do this, but the way I did it only cost $8
I chose to just cut in some threads into the towers using a 3/8-16 tap and 3/8-16x1/2” set screws. No drilling required, just tap the tower out so the set screw is counter sunk slightly when tightened. A piece of tape marking the depth helps make sure all the holes are consistent.
Plugging the towers this way allows the plugs to be removed if ever there is a need to clean out any debris or crud in the future. Of course this is only possible because the engine is completely torn down, and will be going in for more machining anyway and will have a complete cleaning after .

Is that the only thing you need to do to get rid of the AFM system or do you need different valve train components also?

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Is that the only thing you need to do to get rid of the AFM system or do you need different valve train components also?

Yes, a person wanting to delete the AFM/DOD in their daily driver would need to also replace the cam and lifters with a quality cam, and lifter set such as GM#12499225. Also new lifter trays. The AFM should be deleted from the tune in the ECM. Some people choose to replace the valley cover as some years have unnecessary solenoids hiding under there. Many aftermarket valley covers have O rings where the towers are, if you trust the Orings not to leak and cause low oil pressure, a person could skip plunging the towers and just rely on the o rings to seal. I plugged mine, better to be safe than sorry.
The oil pump in a VVT engine is a high volume/ high pressure pump, so a person would want to decide if they need that pump, or possibly want to switch it out for a standard volume/ pressure pump. In my case I also will be replacing the front cover, as mine had solenoids in the cover than are now unnecessary and it’s ugly.
Then depending on the cam installed, 1 bolt or 3 bolt a compatible timing chain and gear set needs to be installed, making sure it’s compatible with your cam sensor.
Not a complete list and I’m not an expert on the subject, so a person would want to do their own research.
In my case I’m starting with a bare block, and I will just install a performance cam, lifters, timing set, new non AFM front engine cover and non AFM valley cover etc. Engine Management is a Holley Terminator so no issues there with AFM delete.
Probably more than you wanted to know……..

[rodstored-72]

Sfont66, excellent info. on the DOD/AFM delete "routine"! very much appreciated.... there is no such thing as too much info. or more than needed! . I have an "extra" GenIV 5.3 that I will use your info. on to do the delete (plugs). thank you & keep us posted on your progress!

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

Sfont66, excellent info. on the DOD/AFM delete "routine"! very much appreciated.... there is no such thing as too much info. or more than needed! . I have an "extra" GenIV 5.3 that I will use your info. on to do the delete (plugs). thank you & keep us posted on your progress!

Thanks
Glad that you found the information helpful

[sfont66]

For quite some time, I have been wanting to upgrade the steering, but I couldn’t afford to do a full kit with new crossmember, tubular control arms, coil overs and rack and pinion.
I also originally wanted to try to install a manual rack and pinion, and also remove the power steering pump. Mainly to reduce weight, but also to improve looks and tidy up the engine bay.
After searching for a while and many phone calls and emails, I found many options for a power rack, no manual rack kits. Yes there are a few manufacturers for complete front suspension kits that offer manual rack and pinion as an option but they are more than I can afford right now, as I’d like to pursue the engine build, and possibly body and paint soon. Just Can’t do it all at once.
In searching out a solution, I found a lot of info on the power rack and pinion from No Limit Engineering. Sure other kits are out there, but they sometimes have extra stuff you don’t want, and are more expensive, and some even take weeks or longer to get.
So I chose the power rack kit from No Limit Engineering.
Rob from No Limit Engineering has been a longtime member here, and has provided a lot of information over the years through the “Make It Handle” thread as well as others.
His installation instructions are clear, straightforward and even have a bit of humor.
I have to get a 5/8” drill bit, and new power steering hoses to fit the rack. Other than that, it’s pretty much a simple bolt in.
For more information see the 63-87 rack and pinion thread under Suspension Marketplace
Hopefully I will have some time to install the kit in a week or so.