"Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

[Grip]

Your progress is looking GREAT!

[omodified]

Originally Posted by Grip

Your progress is looking GREAT!

Thanks for the compliment Eric and thanks for stopping to check out my build.

[omodified]

I realize I need to work on the frame in order to stay ahead of the body shop. I would hate for the cab to be ready before the frame. So, I need to concentrate on getting this thing rolling on wheels and tires. The rear is pretty much ready to roll, so I need to get going on the front. Next up is the front springs. I am using CPP 1" drop springs. The pancake crossmember should give me a 1.5" drop and the spindles will be an additional 2.5" drop. With these springs, I should end up a total of 5" dropped in the front.






Without any weight on the frame from the body or even a drivetrain, I needed something to jack against so I could get the spring seated and balljoint stem nuts tightened properly. So, I used the bucket on my tractor.




Here, I quickly realized that the spring was not seating correctly. I got the pigtail to sit in the lower control arm bucket correctly, but the top was misaligned. The crossmember spring mounting area is D-shaped and the top coil can really only sit one way. The way it is currently orientated, the spring was not sitting flush and would ultimately not yield a 1 inch drop. Looking at it here, it might even raise the truck.






At this point, I checked the forums here for anybody else that has encountered this issue. Not surprising, but it is common and it has to do with spring winding process. Most people say they just cut off a half coil and moved on. I decided to send the last two pics to CPP and ask for their opinion. CPP said that this looked okay and it would more than likely move into place when the truck gets driven. Well, this answer didn't sit well with me. I remember back to when I installed 3" drop springs on this truck years ago. I ended up cutting a half coil out to give it some rake. The truck just sat too level. So, I decided to cut just enough to get the spring to seat correctly on both ends. I ended up cutting off a 1/4 coil off of the bottom coil.




I didn't want to install the springs with bare metal so I used some POR-15 to coat the ends where I made the cut. It matches the powder coat finish on the springs pretty well. Now, I have to wait 48 hours for it to cure.

[omodified]

POR-15 has cured nicely and it's time to install the front springs. I used the tractor again for the assist, although it was a bit easier to install them with a 1/4 coil cut out. The spring seated correctly top and bottom this time. Once I jacked up the lower control arm, I was able to torque the balljoint stem nuts to the correct specs, 50 lb/ft and 90 lb/ft. No cotter pins for now because I will need to torque these again after the truck is finished due to adding more weight.

[omodified]

Next thing to do before I can get the frame off jack stands is install the front brakes. This will allow me to install the front wheels and tires. When I started unpacking everything for this step, I realized I couldn't find any information about the brake pads they sent me. I can only assume they are generic. I would feel much better if I installed front pads that I was confident matched the rear compound. So, I ordered new front pads.





For now, I will just install the rotors. This will still allow me to install the front wheels temporarily. That will get it off jack stands and enable me to do a few other things on the rear. The CPP front brake kit I bought came with raw iron rotors. I attempted to paint them black a while back, but I kept having issues getting the paint to stick. I ended up finding identical rotors that Performance Online offered except they were plated with Black Oxide. Obviously, I'm trying to prevent rust, so this was a much better option for me than paint that won't stick.






The bearings and seals that came with the kit were also unmarked. So, I bought replacement Timken bearings and seals. Quality parts just make me feel better.








I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease to pack the bearings and installed them in the rotor. Then I gently tapped the seals in place with a block of wood.
Than I installed the rotors and tightened the castle nuts to just hand tight.








Wheels are installed front and rear and just like that, it's sitting on the ground!!!




Last thing I wanted to do was stand the front wheels with a camber reading that is more representative of what it will be like when things are final. This will allow me to check the ride height now to make sure I'm not way far off. For camber shims, I wanted to find something cleaner and more like what you would find on a race car. I found this anodized aluminum set on EBAY from AfterDarkSpeed. They advertise them for a 73-87 C10 but I can tell you that they work just fine for 67-72. Once I installed them, I jounced the front end about 20 times. Then I measured to the floor from the core support mounts. Each side was within a 1/16" I'm very happy with this!!!

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Nice work! I'm enjoying all the great pictures. I feel your pain on the NOS body panels in particular. I had a similar experience with an NOS tailgate and fender. I think body parts that were actually installed on a truck had a higher level of quality control. It almost seems like parts that didn't make the grade to get sent to the factory were then put in the service parts network and left to the body shop to correct.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by Old_Truck_Fan

Nice work! I'm enjoying all the great pictures. I feel your pain on the NOS body panels in particular. I had a similar experience with an NOS tailgate and fender. I think body parts that were actually installed on a truck had a higher level of quality control. It almost seems like parts that didn't make the grade to get sent to the factory were then put in the service parts network and left to the body shop to correct.

Hey Old truck Fan. Thanks for stopping by. I think you are exactly right about the quality control process. Hopefully the worst is behind us in this build!

[omodified]

The biggest reason that I needed to get the frame on the ground was for the next step...the gas tank. I'm going with a 19 gallon EFI Boyd Welding tank. This thing is a piece of art! Since I will have a wood bed, I decided to go with the flush floor option. I also opted for their mounting kit, which will make for a easy clean install. For safety sake, I had them install a rollover vent. No in tank fuel pump though, we will go a different route for that.








First thing to do is note that I fixed the two spots of rust that were left on the frame rails where I had forgotten to remove a brace in earlier steps. I taped off the area and sanded the rust to bare metal with a Dremel and a flap wheel. Then I coated the area with POR-15 Chassis Black. This was done a few days ago, but I forgot to mention it and forgot to take a photo.




Next thing to do was test fit. The tank is fairly light when it's empty, but a floor jack makes it easy to maneuver it around once it's in place. Being able to move it around is important so you can square up the tank in the space. It's kind of a tight fit, but there is plenty of room to center it up. Once I got it where I wanted it, I used tape to outline the mounts on the bottom of the frame rails. This will help me relocate it later. Once it was outlined I removed the tank for the next step.






Next, I measured exactly where I needed to drill the mounting holes in the tank. I had to be careful here so the existing holes in the frame didn't interfere. I also needed to make sure I was using a flat part of the frame rail and not where it starts to curve up toward the shock crossmember. I used the mounting brace as my template for all of this. When I had the brace where I wanted it, I used and automatic punch to locate the starting point for my drill bit. This should eliminate the chance of the bit walking and messing something up. Once I drilled the holes in the tank, I used my reference tape to reinstall the tank onto the frame. Here I transferred the hole pattern onto the bottom of the rail and repeated my drilling process. When all of the drilling was complete, I installed the tank one last time and tested fitted the mounts and hardware. Everything fit great! Now I have to send the braces to be painted so they blend in with the frame.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Great build thread thanks for the detailed write up..

[omodified]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Great build thread thanks for the detailed write up..

Thank you French!

[omodified]

So the next few things I'm going to work on made me realize something. The front crossmember I received back is actually from a 71-72 C10. I'm not sure what all the differences are, but the big one I see right now is how the front brake lines install. On the crossmember that I removed, the lines installed on the back side. Here it is during the teardown




The lines on this 1972 install on the front side. Hard to see but here is the bracket for the fitting.




I originally ordered a stainless CPP front brake line set for a 67-70. These obviously will not work now. So I needed to find a 71-72 set. I have zero experience making stainless brake lines so, I'm trying to make it easy on myself by getting pre-bent. Inline Tube had kit #SCTB72F2.




Here is the RF line just laid on the crossmember. You can see how they will route under the engine stand and toward the front bracket.

[omodified]

I just want to document a few things. I need to come up with a few more parts to get painted hot rod black along with the gas tank mounts. I've had a few things put away for this exact occasion. I'm dropping off these parts off tomorrow.

Part of what I had nickel plated was the brake assembly. I used my original for this. I disassembled it and stripped the rust. After nickel plating, it needs to have the factory black painted on the arm.












Next is the emergency brake assembly. My original wasn't in good enough shape to keep. The arm was bent in two direction and was a little weak from straightening. I found and NOS assembly a few years back on EBAY. In order to nickel plate, it needed stripped too. After plating, now the arm needs painted factory black too.








The last thing I will be taking are the wiper transmission arms. My originals were in terrible shape. I found a really nice used one and an NOS. I disassembled both of them and then the raw metal to be nickel plated. Before I reassemble, the transmission arms will need to be painted black.

[omodified]

Dropped the parts off to be painted. While I was here, I grabbed some updated photos. I decided to have the seams shaved where the cab metal overlaps in the windshield area and the door jambs. Added some metal to the seam area and now it's getting smoothed out.










Also had some metal work done on the doors. I've never like the radius on the bottom corners. Since so much time was spent on the gaps, I decided to fix the radius on the corners to better match the gaps.

before





after

[omodified]

I got the front brake pads in today so it's time install the front brakes. First thing I need to do is install the castle nut with the right amount of torque and then install the cotter pin and dust cap. The proper torque for the castle nut is tightening until you can only spin the rotor about 1 half turn. All the hardware for the front brake are nickel plated.







Place the pads inside the rotor. The CPP pads that I decided to not use came with two clips to hold the pads in place during caliper installation. Install brass bushings inside caliper. Place the caliper over the rotor and line up with mounting holes on the spindle. Use white lithium grease to cover the caliper mounting bolts so the pads slide easier during operation. Install mounting bolts and torque to 35 lb/ft.
















Installing the brake lines and hardware. Just installed loose for right now until I decide how I want to tie back the brake hoses.

[Captain X]

Apologies if you already went over this and I missed it, but I'm curious about the disc brake conversion you did here. Is this one of those kits which will move your wheels outward slightly, or are these new parts you were able to order and don't move the stock location of the wheels? I see the rear ones are like the newer ones Chevy had for a while, with a parking brake that was still a drum brake that used the disc rotor as the drum. Did you have to replace the entire axle to do this or were you able to use the original?

[omodified]

Originally Posted by Captain X

Apologies if you already went over this and I missed it, but I'm curious about the disc brake conversion you did here. Is this one of those kits which will move your wheels outward slightly, or are these new parts you were able to order and don't move the stock location of the wheels? I see the rear ones are like the newer ones Chevy had for a while, with a parking brake that was still a drum brake that used the disc rotor as the drum. Did you have to replace the entire axle to do this or were you able to use the original?

Hey Captain. I believe you are correct about the front kit. From what I read, this kit will more than likely move the front wheels out a bit. The newer kits, otherwise knows as modular, are suppose to keep that from happening. My issue with the modular kits is that it forces you to either convert to 5 lug and/or use a bigger wheel. In my case, I wanted to keep my 6-lug wheels, so this was the best route at the time. So, if there ends up being a noticeable difference in track width later, I will have to figure out some rear wheel spacers.

As for my rear setup, I did replace my axles. I didn't do it because of fitment though. I think the original axles would have worked just fine. I replaced mine with stronger axles that were the same dimensions as the ones I removed from the truck.

Hope this helps you out. Thanks for the interest.

[omodified]

Well, my hopes for pre-bent brake lines making my life easier are over. The LF brake line has the wrong size nut on it as do a few other lines. So, I decided to throw all of the lines I have into a pile and use what's there to make what I need. Also, no kit that I was able to find includes an intermediate line, so I have to make one of those anyways. So, I ordered the only tool that you can use to make double flares in stainless tubing. I also order about 10 feet of stainless tubing. Brakes lines are on hold...

[omodified]

Starting to mock up the trim so the mounting holes can be drilled before paint. While doing my research, I found there are two ways to mount this upper trim. The factory way, causes the trim to have a bowed look to it. The other way is to just make it straight all the way across on your own. I'm going with straight across. Have to be careful with this one...

[omodified]

I received the brake line flaring tool today, so it's time to work on the brake lines. I started with the LF line with the wrong sized nut. I used a tubing cutter to cut the end off. I took off the least amount of material that I could so the line was reusable. Next, I used a brake line deburring tool to deburr the inside and outside of the tubing. This will help with making an easy and clean double flare. The flaring tool is heavy duty and makes easy work of the stainless material. I have to say, I hope the rest of the lines are this easy.



















Next up are the two lines that will come from the proportioning valve. Since the cab isn't on, I don't know exactly where the valve will rest. I should have enough adjustability in the lines to get everything tight later.







Last thing for today is the intermediate line. I wanted to finish everything up but I realized I was missing a union. So, I ordered a pack of unions and another tee that matched the rear. For the intermediate line, 10 feet ended up being the perfect length. I hade to bend a 90° at the rear and a slight bend in the center to follow the frame rail. I installed two nuts and double flared both ends. Here it is installed. More to come in a few days.

[omodified]

I got the last of the parts I was waiting on to finish the brake lines. The last section of line I have to make is the front line (for the rear brakes) that connects to the intermediate line. I used my original 1/4" line as a reference. Unfortunately, I didn't have a long enough piece of material to make it one line, so I had to make two. Glad I bought a pack of unions. It took me it bit but I got all of the bends to match my original line. I got the two lines installed and tightened the heck out of all the connections. The final seal on the lines happens when you tighten them. This stainless takes a little extra effort. Last, I installed clips to both sides of the frame rail and clamps on the crossmember.

[omodified]

Since the brake lines are installed, I can begin preparations to install the engine and transmission into the frame. I did my research a while back on my transmission options. For several reasons, I chose to go with the 4L80e. For this application, I decided to use the B&M 118002BM. This transmission has the perfect specs for my application. B&M's Street/Strip transmission is a complete ready to run unit (less torque converter) for high performance street and mild dragstrip use. The transmission provides firm shifts and features a standard shift pattern, these are the finest available for street and strip use. The Street/Strip GM 4L80E automatic transmission fits GM models 1997-2015. Features a 34-element intermediate sprag, high energy intermediate band, new overdrive sprag assembly, new low roller assembly, performance friction materials, all new solenoids and wiring harness, recalibrated valve body, performance pump assembly, steel forward hub. Designed for a maximum of 800 horsepower and 650 ft/lbs of torque.




I bought this transmission a few years ago and I'm glad I did. The prices have gone way up on these things and they seem to be on eternal backorder. Since I have been sitting on it for a bit, I had the opportunity to nickel plate the only zinc plated hardware that came on it, the tailshaft bolts. So I installed these first. I torqued them back to GM spec of 25lb/ft.




Next thing I wanted to do before installing into the frame was replace the transmission pan. To help with cooling, I decided to go with a deep pan. B&M makes nice one with a magnetic drain plug. I've been sitting on this one for a while too, so this hardware was nickel plated as well. First thing to do was remove the stock pan. I assumed the transmission had little to no fluid in it, so I flipped it upside down to do the work.






Next thing is to remove the transmission filter. It is attached by a tube in the corner of the transmission. It just lifts up and off. Once the filter was removed, I installed the supplied steel support bracket. When you re-install the filter, the back of the filter just rests on this bracket. I torqued the bracket bolt back to 8 lb/ft.




Next, I installed the supplied extension tube and seal for the filter. It's a really tight fit so I used some transmission fluid to lube it up. With the tube installed, I re-installed the filter. I also put the pan gasket in place.










Last step was installing the pan. The filter gets sandwiched between the pan and the steel bracket that I installed a few steps ago. It is a tight fit but it goes. I used the cross method to tighten to pan bolts to 12lb/ft. Next up, mocking the transmission/engine/headers to check for clearance issues...

[geunther]

My left front from the same kit came with the wrong sized fitting as well. They ended up replacing that piece.

[omodified]

I read from several sources that the 4l80e has clearance issues with most headers. Forum member MDPOTTER also mentioned this in his build thread where he used the same headers that I plan to use. So, I was expecting some issues here. First thing to do mate the transmission to the engine.




The headers that are chose are the Speed Engineering 25-1021. These are polished stainless shorty headers made specifically for C10s with LS conversion. These have to be the nicest, most affordable, best looking headers out there. Lots of great reviews made this purchase a no brainer. V-bands to boot!






As expected, there are definitely clearance issues. The headers by themselves fit fine. When you try to add the v-bands and collectors, that is where the fun begins. The clearance is so bad on the driver side that I couldn't tighten the header bolt all the way. I marked the areas I need to trim for minimum clearance and separated the transmission from the engine.












Before I started grinding, I decided to research this one last time. The more I looked, the more I could see that this is not just a C10 issue. I found several places where people are trimming to maximum clearance. My original thought was trimming a little at a time. Then, the thought of taking the engine on and off the stand to do this a bunch of times turned my stomach. So, maximum clearance it is.






Time to grind...








Time to check progress. Glad I decided to go max clearance. I can fit a small dog between there now.







Last thing to do was trim the inspection cover to match the transmission. I couldn't exactly match the passenger side. If I did, it would expose the starter gear and the flexplate. Since I bought the transmission new, I didn't have an inspection cover. I decided to buy a new GM part. After the trim, everything fit perfect. Back on the engine stand, for now...

[omodified]

I needed to get the front wheels back on so I can get to the next thing. Unfortunately, I found a mistake I made. When I test fit the front brake clearance to the wheels, I didn't have the brake pads installed. Now that they are installed, the caliper is fully extended. With the caliper fully extended, it ended up rubbing the wheel. I made a quick decision to just go ahead and grind the clearance I needed to make it work. I was so mad I forgot to take any photos of the work. After everything fit, I used the POR15 chassis black to cover the area that I had to grind. It turned out pretty good, good enough to live behind a rally wheel.




The last thing I need to wrap up on the front end is securing the front brake flex lines. I found a really nice magnetic clips from Mr. Gasket. I ended placing them under the top side of the spindle. The clips rotate about the magnet, which allows the flex lines just enough movement without getting bound up while steering. I like that they aren't visible too. Time to get rolling again...

[omodified]

I got some parts back from the paint shop, including the brackets I need to install the fuel tank. This went pretty quick since everything was pre-drilled. The only thing I still needed to drill was the rubber isolator pads that go between the tank mounting flanges and the frame. I put the tank in place with the floor jack and lined everything up. I ended up trashing the zinc hardware that was provided with the kit. I bought longer stainless bolts so I could use a locking nut. I installed and torqued these bolts to 45 lb/ft. This thing looks awesome sitting in there!!!