Project Reno - 72 cheyenne rebuild

[CUSTOM/10]

Hey Chris;

Let me see if I have the correct size, if I do you can have a couple just PM me your address.

I had another member give me an AM radio, so it's time to pay it forward !

Gary

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Hey Chris;

Let me see if I have the correct size, if I do you can have a couple just PM me your address.

I had another member give me an AM radio, so it's time to pay it forward !

Gary

Gary just got the clips. These will do the trick! Thanks!

[cmabolt]

Two steps forward and 1 month back
Well I have been making really good progress on assembly. I got the AC hoses installed under the dash minus one from passengers side that needed to be a bit longer. Had to order a custom length.

Glove box is installed and wiring in cab completed except for stereo which I am now leaving till later in the build when I make final touches to interior.
I got a bracket made and engine harness wiring secured to the motor.

I wrapped the conduit with anti-ark tape to help with heat and to prevent any spark from a bad plug wire jumping to the harness. I have seen this happen and it causes a miss that is very hard to diagnose.

I go the passengers side inner fender on.

So that was the 2 steps forward. Now for the 1 month back. I installed my clutch master cylinder and bled the hydraulic clutch system.

That went well. After bleeding the system I wanted to make sure the clutch worked ok. I pressed the pedal once and heard a "pop," "ting" and tried again to press pedal. It went half way down and stopped. Oh ****tttt! This is not good. I removed the slave cylinder and components to get a look and it appears the spring clip the holds the clutch fork to the pivot ball broke. This caused the fork to break loose of the throwout bearing So, to make a long story short, i have to pull the trans transfer case again, but this time from underneath the truck. Due to this development, I am thinking a hydraulic throwout bearing may be a better solution. Less moving parts. To say the least I am super bummed, but it's not gonna a fix itself.

[DWilbur]

That's a bummer about the shift fork. You should be able to support the T-case and remove the cross member set up a floor jack under the trans mount and slide the trans and T-case back to access the fork for repairs.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

That's a bummer about the shift fork. You should be able to support the T-case and remove the cross member set up a floor jack under the trans mount and slide the trans and T-case back to access the fork for repairs.

Yeah, I haven't done a removal from under a car since the late 90's and it wasn't a trans/transfer case combo. Whole different animal. I am optimistic it will go well, but It never goes as planned. I am going to talk to Novak today and share my data with them to make sure it was all done correctly. After some more research last night I think this is definitely the best hydraulic system, just need to get it fixed up. There must be a reason the clutch fork broke. Too much tension or improper alignment. I have never seen that before.

[cmabolt]

The evil culprit.
Today I tried like hell to avoid doing the trans and finally just bit the bullet.
I was able to shift the trans back (thanks DWilber) without dropping it to the ground, THANK GOD,! and remove the carnage. I present the problem.

I spoke with the guys at Novak (They were very helpful) and they said it is rare, but not the first time this has happened. A broken spring is usually a result of improper installation of the fork onto the throwout bearing. When I removed mine it was installed correctly minus the spring. They are sending me out a new fork. I checked all my measurements while things were torn down to double make sure I had the setup correct.



To make a long story short, my setup was correct. I did however extend my pivot ball to help pedal effort a little.

If you compare this to the earlier shots, the pivot ball is much further out now. They advised me to center the arm in the opening of the bell housing so it is perpendicular to the block. Hopefully this will all work better when the tranny goes back in. I need a break. This truck is killing me.

[mjensen]

Man that sucks!!

The rest of the truck is absolutely beautiful and I love to see the updates...well, except the carnage

[Blown06]

I have spent all evening reading through your build thread. You've done an awesome job especially with all the issues you've been up against. Top notch work on everything you've done, clean build and I like the root beer color.
Thanks for taking the time over the years to keep posting updates, it's a good reminder to those of us just starting a project that it will take years. None of this stuff happens over night. When I get frustrated with my lack of progress I look at builds like yours that have gone on for years but have turned out to be works of art. Thanks.

[DWilbur]

Now I see the deference with my factory hydraulic clutch and the aftermarket one. my pivot ball does not adjust like yours. glad your able to figure it out.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by Blown06

I have spent all evening reading through your build thread. You've done an awesome job especially with all the issues you've been up against. Top notch work on everything you've done, clean build and I like the root beer color.
Thanks for taking the time over the years to keep posting updates, it's a good reminder to those of us just starting a project that it will take years. None of this stuff happens over night. When I get frustrated with my lack of progress I look at builds like yours that have gone on for years but have turned out to be works of art. Thanks.

Thanks so much Jarrod for your kind words. This forum has also inspired me to keep plugging away on my project. This truck will get done come hell or high water. It's a dream that deserves my best effort. I worked on cars/trucks for a long time and know well that nothing with cars ever goes as planned. So I roll with it, stay patient and one day soon hope to enjoy the hell out of my truck.

[rgunlock]

Looks like you are on the home stretch with the wiring. Too bad on the broken clutch fork, but better to deal with it parked in the garage than for it to break when you are driving it! Now you have me wondering about mine - I didn't even know there were a bunch of measurements to make. My clutch fork ball isn't adjustable though, so I assume it's just the push rod from the pedal I'll have to worry about adjusting.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Looks like you are on the home stretch with the wiring. Too bad on the broken clutch fork, but better to deal with it parked in the garage than for it to break when you are driving it! Now you have me wondering about mine - I didn't even know there were a bunch of measurements to make. My clutch fork ball isn't adjustable though, so I assume it's just the push rod from the pedal I'll have to worry about adjusting.

Hey Rick, yup, just the front end needs wiring now. I am yet again waiting on some connectors. I decided to redo the rear light harness connector in a weather pack connector. That connector gets hammerd with water etc and the stock def needs upgrading. Most often measurements on the clutch were just for the throw out bearing length. Novak recommends doing this so that is what I did. I sure hope that the clutch will work as it's supposed to now.

[cmabolt]

On the road again!
Well, was in Savanna for the weekend, nice town, and while I was away the new clutch fork arrived. It is definitely a re-design. The fingers that retain the spring clip are much beefier and the spring clip is much beefier.
New at top, old on bottom.

A different rivet has also been used. Old first then new below.


Bottom line, the new fork fit tightly into the throwout bearing. It all went together nicely. I also discovered that the piston on the slave cylinder had moved all the way out as a result of the fork slipping off the ball stud. I had to crack open the bleeder and push the rod and piston back to recover some of the slaves throw. Once I did that and hooked everything back up I re-bled the clutch system. It now works absolutely perfect. Pedal feels very nice with a significant throw. I love it when a plan works. I also received all my parts to finish the cab so tomorrow, it will be done. Ahhhhh, the smell of victory.

After going through all this with the Novak hydraulic kit I am going to do some drawings and a write up to make it easier. There is definitely a gap between what they give you for installation and what is truly needed to easily understand how to make it work well.

[Blown06]

Man that's good news, glad they made it right. The new piece does look beefier for sure.

[rgunlock]

"so tomorrow, it will be done"

The whole truck? Done? Woohoo!!!

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

"so tomorrow, it will be done"

The whole truck? Done? Woohoo!!!

Yeah I wish. Nope, just the cab. I still have to get the trans crossmember back in
and fuel line back on etc. before I can get the front wired. Still... not too far off.

[cmabolt]

Got the trans back in and everything hooked back up. Glad that little detour is over.

The dash is back in for a bit and to my joy bolted right in with no issue. I can't wait to see it lit up.

I pulled the grill down from the dusty loft in the garage and pulled it apart. It's in need of a little tlc. This is the inner grill re-painted and disassembled from the outer grill.

I replaced the Bowtie as the old was cracked and weathered.

I spent the rest of the day getting the oxidation and chrome off the aluminum outer grill. Pain in the rear, but it is coming along. By the end of the day I had it pretty cleaned up. I still have a little cleanup, need to paint the headlight bezels and then a final polish. The first polish was good, but needs more for the brushed look to match the rest of the trim pieces.

[cmabolt]

****Bumper help please ****

Well, I didn't remove the bumpers, the original body shop did. I am having a hell of a time figuring our the brackets I have. Specifically, the outer front bumper brackets and the orientation of the rear step bumper brackets. On the rear, I only have one bolt that lines up on the frame. It should be two bolts according to the assembly manual. On the front both my outer brackets correspond to a slotted hole in the frame, but that only work on the passengers side. The steering box is in the way on the drivers side. Anybody have pics that could make this a little less of a guessing game? I would really appreciate it.

Chris

Here are pics of what I have.
Rear bracket

Rear frame. Rear lower hole lines up. Nothing else does.

Front outer brackets

Front passengers frame area with slotted hole?

[Trixxterr]

The pic you have labeled "front outer brackets" look just like my rear brackets on my 80.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by Trixxterr

The pic you have labeled "front outer brackets" look just like my rear brackets on my 80.

Thanks for your comments. I have gone ahead and ordered new front brackets and after checking based on your thoughts, it looks like the rear bumper can utilize the rear brackets I have.

Chris

[mcbassin]

Those brackets you have pictured look different than my front brackets. :PIC HERE
You can see my outer and inner brackets at the bottom.
FYI, I did have to grind some clearance on my driver side bracket where it was hitting on the power steering gear box if I remember correctly.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Those brackets you have pictured look different than my front brackets. :PIC HERE
You can see my outer and inner brackets at the bottom.
FYI, I did have to grind some clearance on my driver side bracket where it was hitting on the power steering gear box if I remember correctly.

Hey thanks Mike. You are correct. I had to order new front brackets. I am now finding out that many parts I had, never made it in the truck on it's journey home from out west. I am left with figuring out the missing pieces to the puzzle.
Thanks for the pics.
Chris

[CUSTOM/10]

Hey Chris !

This is what your front brackets should look like. 71 & 72's have this indent in the bracket to clear the directionals in the bumper. I don't know what the rears should look like for a step bumper.
Gary

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Hey Chris !

This is what your front brackets should look like. 71 & 72's have this indent in the bracket to clear the directionals in the bumper. I don't know what the rears should look like for a step bumper.
Gary

Thanks Gary got'm on order.

As for progress I dropped off the bumpers for clear powder coat today. Hopefully they turn out good and that will preserve the raw metal look. In the mean time I have been focusing on the doors. I got the door panels dyed up and passengers door with all internals put back together. It looks like the door glass was dragged down a gravel road. Very scratched up and in a couple places deep scratches. Bummer. I know I made some of the scratches, but there must have been plenty from age and disassembly.



Steering wheel installed

[IMG][/IMG]
On this pic you can kinda see the brush work I did on the chrome. It just tones everything down a bit.

today I also received my grill center support which didn't make the trip from out west. Once I finish brushing the outer grill that can all go back together.

[rgunlock]

Interior is coming along nicely, and I really like the brushed look on the mirror. Its probably not the right term, but it looks kind of "antiqued" in the picture with the darker areas around the rivets and all. I'm anxious to see how your bumpers turn out with this treatment.