Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[LostMy65]

Good points.
Thanks.

Thanks to Captain, too.

Originally Posted by padresag

like the Capt states one should use the appropriate master. once you install the smaller master and perhaps find out that you can get away with it; it will never get changed. then one day you will need all that brake and find that you don't have it. someone then gets hurt( I am just making a general statement, not you personally, but if the shoe fits!!)
but I would just check if there was any difference in the master cyls. the one(m/c) on my
1 ton doesn't look any different from the others but may have a bigger bore. I know that the w/cyl are a good size larger. one would think that a vehicle wit a much greater GVW would have a larger total braking capacity.
ron

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[LostMy65]

Okay, I located a Master Cylinder off a 1 ton.
Did you say I'd be fine with the 1/2 ton booster off my 79 Suburban 4x4 donor?

Thanks for all the help.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Some of the master cylinders on the 3/4 tons will be different than a 1/2 ton master, depending on the factory brake package. If your front calipers have the 2-15/16" bore, you can likely get away with that '79 K10 booster and master. If you have the 3-5/32" bore calipers, I would suggest a appropriate master. The masters will interchange with boosters regardless of 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, at least with pre '99 trucks.

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[padresag]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Okay, I located a Master Cylinder off a 1 ton.
Did you say I'd be fine with the 1/2 ton booster off my 79 Suburban 4x4 donor?

Thanks for all the help.

don't see why not. it is just a booster. my 1 ton doesn't have one, just push

ron

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by padresag

don't see why not. it is just a booster. my 1 ton doesn't have one, just push

ron

That makes sense.
Thanks again.
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[Captainfab]

The '79 1/2 ton booster should work just fine with a 1 ton master. Just double check the bask side of the piston to make sure they are the same depth. The 1 tons typically come with hydroboost.

[rudy350]

hey captainfab good avise your giving us.. this week i wanna go parts shopping.. you seen my 1965 gmc truck long bed 6 lug drum all around. has a 350 sbc ..

ok i decided to stay 6 lug but i want disk in the front and reliable stoping power what donor do i need that will come close to a direct bolt on ?? what do i need to look for? would really appriciate ur help

[rudy350]

ive been reading alot do i need a complete c-member too ??

[rudy350]

[LostMy65]

I also want to keep 6-Lug, and I don't want to widen the width the 73-87 swap causes.
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[Captainfab]

If I'm not mistaken, the CPP modular spindles keep the narrower track width.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I also want to keep 6-Lug, and I don't want to widen the width the 73-87 swap causes.
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[Captainfab]

You just need the parts from a '71-'87 C10 with the 1.25" rotors. Then you will have to buy the aftermarket 6 lug rotors. You don't have to swap the entire suspension with the crossmember. Although that is a quick and easy way to make the conversion, but only if the engine is out. Of course that also depends on if the donor suspension is in driveable condition.

Originally Posted by rudy350

hey captainfab good avise your giving us.. this week i wanna go parts shopping.. you seen my 1965 gmc truck long bed 6 lug drum all around. has a 350 sbc ..

ok i decided to stay 6 lug but i want disk in the front and reliable stoping power what donor do i need that will come close to a direct bolt on ?? what do i need to look for? would really appriciate ur help

Originally Posted by rudy350

ive been reading alot do i need a complete c-member too ??

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If I'm not mistaken, the CPP modular spindles keep the narrower track width.

That's the route I'm considering.

I was wondering though, if there was a complete front crossmember from a newer generation truck that doesn't increase the track width?

[Captainfab]

The only front suspension that is an easy swap is the '71-'87's......and they are the wider track width. The '88-'98's are wider yet, plus are a completely different design. I'm not sure just what the track width is when using the '88-'98 spindles on the earlier control arms.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

That's the route I'm considering.

I was wondering though, if there was a complete front crossmember from a newer generation truck that doesn't increase the track width?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The only front suspension that is an easy swap is the '71-'87's......and they are the wider track width. The '88-'98's are wider yet, plus are a completely different design.

Okay.

Thank you for all the help you provide in these forums.

[rudy350]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The only front suspension that is an easy swap is the '71-'87's......and they are the wider track width. The '88-'98's are wider yet, plus are a completely different design. I'm not sure just what the track width is when using the '88-'98 spindles on the earlier control arms.

so does that means the donor truck front c-member will make my wheel stick out farther out, right??

also wen i do the swap with the donor i use its upper and lower a arms correct. what about my breaking (brake buster,master cyl) will i need the one from the donor? and captain fab will ur master cylinder braket and power sterring braket work on my truck??

[Darkrider]

Ok Im def gonna go about it with the C2500LD brake rotors i have a couple questions:

1: when looking at aftermarket spindles am i looking for ones for 1 inch or 1 1/4 rotors? I have seen both on the site i would be ordering from, Just want to make sure i would have the right ones for using the factory 6 lug rotors from the 88+ 6 lug 2500s

2: Will the control arms from a C30 from the 73-87 model trucks work? I have a line on a pair from the same 1 ton im getting the 6.2 Diesel from for my project.

[Captainfab]

No the front crossmember is not wider. As far as I know the increased width is in the spindle and rotor dimensions.

As for the upper and lower control arms, you can use either. If you use your originals, you will have to change the ball joints. I prefer to use the '73-'87 control arms with the rubber bushings. Yes you will need the mastercylinder and the proportioning valve from the donor. Yes my power steering adapter plate and booster bracket will work on your truck. However, the '73-'87 booster is not compatable with the '73-'87 booster. You will have to use one of the boosters listed in the for sale thread.

Originally Posted by rudy350

so does that means the donor truck front c-member will make my wheel stick out farther out, right??

also wen i do the swap with the donor i use its upper and lower a arms correct. what about my breaking (brake buster,master cyl) will i need the one from the donor? and captain fab will ur master cylinder braket and power sterring braket work on my truck??

[Captainfab]

You will need spindles for the 1-1/4" rotors.

As far as I know the C30 lower control arms should work. If you want to verify before purchasing the control arms, go to the parts store and compare the '88-'98 lower ball joints with the C30 lower ball joints. See of the part that presses into the control arm is the same.

When you determine if they will work or not, please post back here so the rest of us will know. Thanks

Originally Posted by Darkrider

Ok Im def gonna go about it with the C2500LD brake rotors i have a couple questions:

1: when looking at aftermarket spindles am i looking for ones for 1 inch or 1 1/4 rotors? I have seen both on the site i would be ordering from, Just want to make sure i would have the right ones for using the factory 6 lug rotors from the 88+ 6 lug 2500s

2: Will the control arms from a C30 from the 73-87 model trucks work? I have a line on a pair from the same 1 ton im getting the 6.2 Diesel from for my project.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If I'm not mistaken, the CPP modular spindles keep the narrower track width.

If I go that route, I'll probably get drop spindles and 6-lug rotors:
http://www.performanceonline.com/FRO...10-TRUCK-8600/

[Darkrider]

Thanks for the info. Im assuming i could verify this by checking to see if by any chance the C20 and C30 use the same lower ball joint?

[Captainfab]

Yes you could do that as well.

Originally Posted by Darkrider

Thanks for the info. Im assuming i could verify this by checking to see if by any chance the C20 and C30 use the same lower ball joint?

[whlman5150]

Hello all, I am new to the forums and am trying to gather some information for a new project I am beginning. I picked up a 62 Chevy C10 shortbed fleet side. The truck needs work to get it back on the road, the rust issues, body, engine, etc. The truck has the straight six (not sure of the engine size..if anyone has info to do this it's appreciated), drum brakes all around, I believe its a 4 speed..on the floor, has a 10 bolt rear end, not sure if it has a positraction or what the gears are.

Some of the modifications and upgrades include putting an LS engine and 4L60e tranny in it, upgrading the brakes to disc, fronts first and rears later. I plan on taking it down to the frame to start cleaning and repairing so I am trying to decide the way to go on the suspension and brakes. I am on a moderate budget so keeping that in mind here are my questions.

For the 62, what year front suspension / brake swap is recommended? Also need info about running a master cylinder and booster or possibly a hydro boost. I think I saw a thread from CaptFab about a hydro boost, just can't find it now.

I've seen people do the 5 lug conversion. Is this done to add the disc brakes or because of wheel choice and available rims for a 5 lug? And, if you do the swap, do you want to go with the 5-4 3/4 or 5-5? Is changing over to a 5 lug recommended or stay with 6?

My plans for the truck include rims and tires. The look I'm going for is a lowered profile look with a slight rake. I'm not sure if I want to run air bags but will definitely be lowering it, nothing crazy I still want it drivable. The rims I was thinking about are either 22x10 in rear, 20x10 in front or just running 20s all around....still looking at different combos. But again, goes back to my question about the lug patterns.

Any information is appreciated...just trying to get this thing going. Thanks!

Gary
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[rudy350]

(However, the '73-'87 booster is not compatable with the '73-'87 booster.) You will have to use one of the boosters listed in the for sale thread.[/QUOTE]



hey captain what do you means by this, in the parenthesis..

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by rudy350

hey captain what do you means by this, in the parenthesis..

he means the '73-'87 booster is not
compatable with the '73-'87 booster.


I think it was a typo
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[Captainfab]

Yeah, apparently I was really tired the other night when I was typing that. How it should have read is: "However the '73-'87 booster is not compatable with my booster bracket"

Thanks for catching that

Originally Posted by rudy350

(However, the '73-'87 booster is not compatable with the '73-'87 booster.) You will have to use one of the boosters listed in the for sale thread.

hey captain what do you means by this, in the parenthesis..[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

he means the '73-'87 booster is not
compatable with the '73-'87 booster.


I think it was a typo
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