** YOUNG FRANKENSTEIN ** The truck Chevrolet should have built.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I really like the newer frame, I have wanted to do this for some time now. My last work truck was a 2000 3/4T chevy with a 5.3 and I turned it back into our shop with 265,000 miles after only having to replace 1 fuel pump at 80K and a water pump at 210K. Even the brakes were the originals and I towed allot with that truck and over loaded it on a regular basis. Great platform for a daily driver.


I think I just solved my labor problem!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I wanted to do the same thing with my 78 K20 and a wrecked 03 K2500 a friend had. I really wanted to use the 03 dash in the 78 but it ended up being too deep for a regular cab truck. There just wasn't enough room left between the seat back and the 03 steering wheel. Your hybrid of keeping the original older trucks dash & steering column solves that half of the problem.

With your crew cab you could probably make the newer dash & column work by just relocating the front seats rearward a little until you had enough room to be comfortable but I like the idea of keeping the stock 72 interior and column too.

I should have done the chassis & drivetrain swap anyway but I gave up on the project when I couldn't make the dash work out. I really wanted the dual zone climate control system, driver information center / gauge cluster and stereo out of the 03.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job and great innovation. I find myself doing the same type of stuff all the time. I try to use what I have because it is cheaper most times, and I want to get it done.

[Rokcrln]

I like the idea but here are my $.02 for safety sake. It looks like the 01 end that you had to drill is aluminum and if so they are ok in stock form but now with the hole drilled into it their is very little "meat" left. Also aluminum is a funny metal in that it can be work hardened when used for steering and suspension parts but once you start drilling or grinding on it the heat produced will start to anneal the metal causing it to soften. Not what you want in your steering system.

So what I would do if this is the only way to hook up the steering is to take the other end of that same joint (but off a different shaft) that is metal and press the joints apart. Then re-build them so you end up with 2 steel ends that you can then weld the coupler to and not just rely on a single bolt that can end up wobbling out the hole and cause slop or a failure.

I hope this makes sense and I also hope this is coming across as for "safety" and in no way a slam on your design.

I will give you a call later about the cover and air box.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I like the idea but here are my $.02 for safety sake. It looks like the 01 end that you had to drill is aluminum and if so they are ok in stock form but now with the hole drilled into it their is very little "meat" left. Also aluminum is a funny metal in that it can be work hardened when used for steering and suspension parts but once you start drilling or grinding on it the heat produced will start to anneal the metal causing it to soften. Not what you want in your steering system.

So what I would do if this is the only way to hook up the steering is to take the other end of that same joint (but off a different shaft) that is metal and press the joints apart. Then re-build them so you end up with 2 steel ends that you can then weld the coupler to and not just rely on a single bolt that can end up wobbling out the hole and cause slop or a failure.

I hope this makes sense and I also hope this is coming across as for "safety" and in no way a slam on your design.

I will give you a call later about the cover and air box.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Thanks for the heads up, That hole was already there and I only had to grind it down a smidge with the cut off wheel, so it never got hot. I am probably have to redo it anyway because of a steering sensor I forgot about that rides on the shaft. I'll rebuild it like you said to be safe and because I can't weld to the aluminum anyway.

[69CST-V]

Great information and you are a true HOT RODDER. Keep making it yours by doing what hasn't been done. Very good thread.

[78BO]

Cool build. Got to see it done.

Bryan

[pickup67man]

That is a lot shorter steering shaft with the rack & pinion. I am looking at setting up my suburban on a newer chassis also. Since I don't have any drivetrain yet a complete but wrecked vehicle will be cheaper.

[scooterskoolkustoms]

I love this build,keep up the good work.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

Yah , I like the way Drew has done his by cutting the crown out of it, That's the only way they look right if you ask me...

Originally Posted by jb1016

Just found this build; I'm in. Great progress so far.

Originally Posted by 76kcfdeng

I am doing just a normal build and it can get overwhelming, what you are doing would put me over the edge. You are dong a beautiful job!

Originally Posted by 70LonghornCST

Wow! Very nice work. You inspire me. Keep it up. Subscribed!

Originally Posted by RaceAGMC

Great looking project, can't wait too see it finished.

Originally Posted by caviness

nice build.

Originally Posted by Dinos63

wow nice work just read the whole thread!! great skills you will have one very cool truck

Originally Posted by jayman68

Great build, love it. My project is similar, but I have alot of rust to deal with. You are doing a great job!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Hey nice progress! You are making this thing look like a truck now for sure.

BTW, $1600 is a very reasonable price. Keep the pics coming!

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am liking the progress you are making. Someday I need to build one of these for my self or maybe I will just get my current project (LowBuk) back on the road and call it done

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Originally Posted by chevyblazer

kolll plaing on doing one my self on a few years

Originally Posted by 67cheby

AWESOME progress

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice progress. Can I ask how you ended up with 4 denali's? They seem to be scarce around here at the auctions.

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

sweet build

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

wow that is just pure awsome!!!!

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice progress on the frame! That is a great solution! Too bad he quit giving advice, he knows his stuff.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice job and great innovation. I find myself doing the same type of stuff all the time. I try to use what I have because it is cheaper most times, and I want to get it done.

Originally Posted by 69CST-V

Great information and you are a true HOT RODDER. Keep making it yours by doing what hasn't been done. Very good thread.

Originally Posted by 78BO

Cool build. Got to see it done.

Bryan

Originally Posted by scooterskoolkustoms

I love this build,keep up the good work.

Thanks to everyone who follows along and takes time to comment.

I'm in the engineering jigsaw puzzle phase!

[67chevy1series]

wow about 11 quotes!

[Rokcrln]

Here are a few parts coming your way! I made yours out of 18ga then added a few beads into it for looks and rigidity. They will mail out Tuesday.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Here are a few parts coming your way! I made yours out of 18ga then added a few beads into it for looks and rigidity. They will mail out Tuesday.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice!

I am pulling your parts right now.

Will mail them Monday.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

Thanks to everyone who follows along and takes time to comment.

I'm in the engineering jigsaw puzzle phase!

Still cant figure out how to multable quote replies like that, but you can add me to the list too.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Don't ya just hate it when ya cut on the wrong side of the line!!

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Tell me more about the blue stuff in the drip rail (also looks like its on the front passenger side below the window) is it seam sealer or some kind of special drip rail filler? Thanks! The roof has made some real progress too, when i first saw the pick showing the different slopes i was about mortafide.. over my head..

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I cannot beleve he didn't put some kinda reserve on it! Musta been really hurtin for cash.. Good score! I'd give up all 3 of my rollaways and top chests for that.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Still cant figure out how to multable quote replies like that, but you can add me to the list too.

Its not too hard, I just poked around til I found it.
There is a button right next to the quote button. It has a quote icon with a plus mark, stands for multiquote. Click it and all the others you want and then click on the normal post reply button.

[swamp rat]

Ok thanks..

[Dieselwrencher]

Have fun. That is a nice change of pace and a great way to get parts, like you already know.

[classicchev]

I need some heat control switches, Im sure you have the front and rear switches. Tan trim would be great.

Darren

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by classicchev

I need some heat control switches, Im sure you have the front and rear switches. Tan trim would be great.

Darren

Call me to discuss what you are asking for. 901-864-1726

[67chevy1series]

wow i would definatly say you are the king of denalis!!!

[classicchev]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

Call me to discuss what you are asking for. 901-864-1726

The seat heat control switch that is in the front doors, and I think the rear seat controls are in the rear of the console.

Darrne

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by classicchev

The seat heat control switch that is in the front doors, and I think the rear seat controls are in the rear of the console.

Darrne

Oh, sorry I was thinking HVAC controls. I don't have any rear ones, but I do have the fronts. They are black, not tan or gray.

[classicchev]

Do you have 4, and if so how much??

Darrn

[drewskiren]

OK, Need a little help with my old body on late model frame. I am measuring where my body height is and need some confirmation. I currently show 19 inches from the top of my sill/rocker to the ground. This is a good hard edge to measure from. Open your truck door and measure from level ground to the opening of the door - top of the sill or top of the "rocker". That first hard edge that the outer rocker firsts starts to roll into the door jamb. This is an easier measuring spot than somewhere on the curve of the rocker or the bottom pinch weld that varies somewhat. Follow me?
I have no weight on my suspension now and it will drop 3 inches with everything installed. (I measured another new truck). What distance is there on a stock truck? If a stock truck has rake measure at the front of the rocker near the fender. What distance do other people have with lowered trucks? Please list how much drop you have to help me convert the results.
__________________

[swamp rat]

>scratching head< Well maybe some pictures may help? part of the problem may be having the weight of the truck off the tires too?

[jbclassix]

after reading your post twice I think what you are looking for is body height off the ground? If you are here some points...

body height effects powertrain clearance
body height determines how the truck looks overall
body height effects center of gravity

If you have the engine/tranny I would get them on the frame.
get a set of wheels on (pref the height of the tire you want to run).
mount your front fenders on your cab
set your cab over your frame
center your front wheels in the fenders
set your bed over the frame
use the denali screw jacks to pos the body where it looks good to YOU...
since you are not using a stock frame and building your own custom body mounts the choice is yours. this will also give you a good point to determine your rear axle CL in the wheel wells. Did i ramble or am i way off?