Project: Recycle

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by greg65

I have two factory bbw glasses for my project. Not sure if pictures would help but I would be glad to take some for you. Your truck in looking awsome.

Would you happen to have a sbw glass you could compare with? A pic w/the sbw on top of the bbw glass to view the difference (if any) on the corners would be ideal. I'm just guessing they're prob very close in shape.... it would be nice to have confirmation.

[joe231]

That Looks very Cool SCOTI!
great idea!!

[Alan's Classic]

I agree, nice job!

[VA72C10]

Nice work and I really like the SW gauges over many of the other options out there...

[TimE]

Nice work!

[SCOTI]

Thanks guys! I figured the idiot light cluster wasn't worth anything (to me) & I had to do some cleaning/detail painting to the bezel anyway so.....

I think the SW gauges offer the best compromise: 'new' gauge accuracy w/enough 'old school' appearance. They definitely work for this project.

I'll be painting the glove box door & door panels in a similar way to help tie things together on the interior. Tannish interior; black gauge cluster, glove box, & door panels w/a little texture for contrast; black arm rests, black steering column/wheel, & black 80/20 loop carpet. The seat frame is even PC'd satin black .

[Detroitcustoms]

You need to run that cluster over and well paint the outer bezel to match dash ?????

[bubba327]

love the dash idea .. I found a glove box door at the pick a part yard and wondering about kinda doing the same thing.. also maybe moving or hiding the switches-- I never thought about the rough painted surface .. I knew not to use shiny chrome or stainless due to glare/reflection issues
your truck is looking good!!

[aggie91]

That gauge set up look fantastic! I think that the texture is great for the back ground, is the bezel just going to be the same shade of black without the texture?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

That gauge set up look fantastic! I think that the texture is great for the back ground, is the bezel just going to be the same shade of black without the texture?

Yes. Bezel will just be satin black.

[N2TRUX]

Scoti- The texture looks great around the gauges. Very good idea. On the bezel, have you considered painting the ribbed area a contrasting color, then overlaying with satin black and lightly sanding? Like ribbed valve covers that are painted between the ribs.

[Painter D]

Nice work SCOTI, keep at it.

[SCOTI]

I got a little more done today.... I had to get the truck moved from my buddies shop as he was running out of room. I picked it up this morning & it's now back in storage waiting.

After that, I got up to the shop & finished the vent window frame repairs. It went fairly easy considering the curve I had to make but they turned out decent. Here's where I started disassembly, cutting out the rot, & a shot of the new side . . ....

[SCOTI]

Once it cooled, I cleaned up the edges, traced my 'cut line' so that new transitioned to old seamlessly, & did final clean-up w/a DA.

A little 'pookie', primer, & satin black; you'll never know there was a problem . . ....

[VA72C10]

nice work!!! Looks like new!

[aggie91]

That looks very nice. Probably nicer than the ones I was looking for...Sorry I could not help out with a spare set sooner for you.

Once those are painted and back together with new seals, no one will ever know they were so bad...

Great work!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

That looks very nice. Probably nicer than the ones I was looking for...Sorry I could not help out with a spare set sooner for you.

Once those are painted and back together with new seals, no one will ever know they were so bad...

Great work!

I was intending to send you a PM regarding this tonight. Thanks for the offer regardless!

[72BlckButy]

Awesome work SCOTI; love the cluster and some real nice work on the wing windows.

[Alan's Classic]

I'm up to date now. It's hard to keep up with everyones build. Nice work on everything. The vent window looks great.

[SCOTI]

I'm thinking of changing hobbies..... Anyone have experience basket-weaving?

I still have a rear window gasket that's pinched in the interior corners.... I'm now going to try a different rear gasket from yet another source (3rd attempt). This newest one appears to have 'molded' corners w/the bbw length vs. a 157" straight piece of molding/gasket.

I tried mocking-up the brake lines.... I'm using a collage of year model parts (pre-bent lines) & that doesn't always go as planned. I ordered front lines for a 73-80; front to rear line for a 67-70; & rear housing lines for a 67-70. The first issue I found was there was no 'front' half of the rear line. Apparently 67-70's are considered 2pc thus you need the front & rear while 73-80's are different. Since I ordered the 73-80 front stuff, I'm missing that 'front' portion of line that exits the prop-valve & 90's toward the rear (for the rear brakes).

The pre-bent kit will work as I've mocked them up previously on the PB-DM v1 in my 68 (that's version 1 for those out of the DM loop ). But, the front 'kit' now has to work w/my R&P c-notch reinforcement plates (this is different vs. my other frame/mock-up). I did some preliminary install & needed the control arms, spindle, & caliper in position to ensure everything will co-exist. I grabbed the a-arms only to realize this Dropmember is the revised 'v3' & doesn't use the lower a-arm shafts. Since these arms were originally on my 68 which had the DM v1, the shafts are installed (w/brand new bushings). So.... just to test the fit of everything, I had to knock out a new bushing to remove the shaft (destroying the bushing of course). Now I have to go get another bushing to pop in just to test fit.

I ordered a front to rear fuel line for a blazer. I figured the length difference between the swb truck vs. a blazer could be made up w/a slightly longer rubber line from the tank to frame union. The line they sent is approx the length from the fuel pump area to the back of the cab. No freakin' way it's long enough for a blazer. Now I'll need to splice in some line to fill the gap.

See how well it works for me? 'Scot-Luck'....

[Captainfab]

I don't know about the Blazers, but on my '66 Suburban, the steel fuel line from the fuel pump back appears to be the same as a pickup. Then there is another line that goes from under the 'cab' back to the tank. The two are connected under the 'cab' with a short piece of hose in a U shape. Maybe the Blazers are the same?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't know about the Blazers, but on my '66 Suburban, the steel fuel line from the fuel pump back appears to be the same as a pickup. Then there is another line that goes from under the 'cab' back to the tank. The two are connected under the 'cab' with a short piece of hose in a U shape. Maybe the Blazers are the same?

The kit did include another short section of hard line but the 'bends' are waaaaaaay off from what the frames shape is plus the ends of the line had threaded fittings (not sure why).

[lolife99]

Those look like "truck fuel lines",... with the short piece being the line that extends thru the cab floor from the in cab tank.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Those look like "truck fuel lines",... with the short piece being the line that extends thru the cab floor from the in cab tank.

That's what I was thinking as well but all of my OE 67-68 fuel lines & tanks have been scrapped so I didn't have anything to compare it to.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That's what I was thinking as well but all of my OE 67-68 fuel lines & tanks have been scrapped so I didn't have anything to compare it to.

It looks like what I just took out of my 70 stepside.