slammed 57

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

my .02 worth is you won't need the top end HP, only being on the street and throttle response and a better running engine that will run cleaner is a better choice. is that 850 a double pumper?

I hear ya morrie. Iam goin to go with the 750 for those exact reasons, it will be a double pumper ( no elec. choke with mechanical secondary). what balancer did you go with? all the ones I been looking at are in the $400 range ( dont know if there is anything cheaper that will work for street use)

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by slammed57

the cam in it now is a 112lsa. Iam still goin with the 109lsa just because I love the way it sounds.... If I get tired of it I can always throw the 112 back in. I do appreciate bud

That the great thing about doing the work ourselves. If you don’t like how something turns out you can always change it!

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

I hear ya morrie. Iam goin to go with the 750 for those exact reasons, it will be a double pumper ( no elec. choke with mechanical secondary). what balancer did you go with? all the ones I been looking at are in the $400 range ( dont know if there is anything cheaper that will work for street use)

I think you'll be happy with that carb. I am using Edelbrock 600CFM's on both the 40 (2 of them) and the same Carb, only one, in the truck and it has a 454, but not the same amount of compression. I'm sure it's under 10.1. Don't know Mike about which balancer, I'd have to get under the truck and see if I can find the name/size for you. I'll go down to the barn now and check.

[hotrod1]

Can you elaborate on what you did for the center section of your chassis? Maybe more pics? Prebent 2x4 - one end or both? Where did you get them? What about the hood flip? Did u use a kit or ?? Thanks.

[slammed57]

I used a frame curve from weldersieries.com about $50 , and spiced them in, I bought 2 thinking i would need them but the angle was not as great as I thought it would be and used only one ,its really not hard to do ( sorry about the pic but there's limited space to get a full picture from underneath the truck) I did price out some pre bent 2x4's from art morison and it was $300 plus another $150 for shipping (due to its size) I even tried some of the metal shops around my area but bending 2x4 is not to common , tubing yes, but not 2x4 , as for the reverse hood I got it from NO LIMIT, those guys have it down, its around $400 you can build it your self but you would only save about $200 and a lot of time of trial and error(some things are worth buying in my opinion). hope this helps

[hotrod1]

Thanks for the reply. Looks great - keep up the nice work.

[slammed57]

brake master and booster is in, along with the front brake lines, also installed a rear sway bar, now I can finish up the rear brake lines

[62 Barnfind]

Originally Posted by slammed57

brake master and booster is in, along with the front brake lines, also installed a rear sway bar, now I can finish up the rear brake lines

Can you take more picks of your brake lines from the master down? Did you mount your proportioning valve on the frame? Looking for ideas

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by 62 Barnfind

Can you take more picks of your brake lines from the master down? Did you mount your proportioning valve on the frame? Looking for ideas

Iam putting the prop valve on the floor board that angle up to the fire wall. (this pic is take from the driver side wheel well). easy to reach in and adjust , I will be putting a spacer between the prop valve and floor board to keep the knob from riding up to close to the floor board. also you see a union connection going to the front brakes. I needed to do ,for the inner aprons i made will hit the master cylinder when i try to and remove them, so I make a break away with the union and prop valve so i can remove the master a little easier. this nicopp is really nice to use... may not look the best but really nice to use.....Iam thinking about using it for fuel lines.....I would have destroyed stainless lines if i went with them lol

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Iam putting the prop valve on the floor board that angle up to the fire wall. (this pic is take from the driver side wheel well). easy to reach in and adjust , I will be putting a spacer between the prop valve and floor board to keep the knob from riding up to close to the floor board. also you see a union connection going to the front brakes. I needed to do ,for the inner aprons i made will hit the master cylinder when i try to and remove them, so I make a break away with the union and prop valve so i can remove the master a little easier. this nicopp is really nice to use... may not look the best but really nice to use.....Iam thinking about using it for fuel lines.....I would have destroyed stainless lines if i went with them lol

Nice work Mike, she'll be on the road soon. Can't wait to hear it purrrrrrr

[slammed57]

geetin some done this past few weeks, Installed the fuel tank, fuel lines, electric fuel pump and filters, and fuel regulator and return line

[joedoh]

clean work as always!

[Jason 56]

Looks great... making good progress!

[BIGglaSS]

Nice! I think we're about in the same spot on making progress. Hopefully doing my fuel plumbing next week.

[slammed57]

Stripped the rear fenders over the weekend. I did so with a strip it disc, I was curious why the passenger side came out so different than the driver side, So I went over to the SPI forum. One said that he runs into that when a panel has very thin old paint on it (which this fender did) Iam guessin then sun bakes the oxidation in through out the years. I even hit some areas with a 80 grit disc with no change. I was told to blast it, SO I did and it came out great. Now time to get them in some SPI epoxy, I love that stuff!!

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Stripped the rear fenders over the weekend. I did so with a strip it disc, I was curious why the passenger side came out so different than the driver side, So I went over to the SPI forum. One said that he runs into that when a panel has very thin old paint on it (which this fender did) Iam guessin then sun bakes the oxidation in through out the years. I even his some areas with a 80 grit disc with no change. I was told to blast it, SO I did and it came out great. Now time to get them in some SPI epoxy, I love that stuff!!

Those turned out great. Doesn’t look like any rust through to contend with.

[gottwake]

nice work

[dsraven]

I find when I blast stuff there is a profile left behind that is basically like miniature craters if magnified. I usually have to sand the panels or when I prime the high spots are still exposed. A body supply guy told me about it. He said when he blasts he sands before paint because otherwise the high spots can start to rust. He said it would be like priming a sheet of sandpaper, the low get paint but the highs would still be exposed. Depends on the grit of blast material you use I suppose. Anybody else sanding after blasting but before initial primer? Makes sense I guess. If you go to wipe the panel down before priming and you leave parts of the rag behind like lintel it is because the panel isn't smooth.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Those turned out great. Doesn’t look like any rust through to contend with.

I did have 2 or 3 areas that I had to contend with

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I find when I blast stuff there is a profile left behind that is basically like miniature craters if magnified. I usually have to sand the panels or when I prime the high spots are still exposed. A body supply guy told me about it. He said when he blasts he sands before paint because otherwise the high spots can start to rust. He said it would be like priming a sheet of sandpaper, the low get paint but the highs would still be exposed. Depends on the grit of blast material you use I suppose. Anybody else sanding after blasting but before initial primer? Makes sense I guess. If you go to wipe the panel down before priming and you leave parts of the rag behind like lintel it is because the panel isn't smooth.

Yes I agree, I do a final 80 grit on the DA to smooth it out so the lint from the rags get pulled through and stuck on the metal

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

geetin some done this past few weeks, Installed the fuel tank, fuel lines, electric fuel pump and filters, and fuel regulator and return line

Buddy, that's one hell of a fuel pump/filters. Very nice

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Yes I agree, I do a final 80 grit on the DA to smooth it out so the lint from the rags get pulled through and stuck on the metal

After sandblasting on mine I used 80 grit and then 150 grit to smooth it down!!! I found scratches 80 grit made.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

Buddy, that's one hell of a fuel pump/filters. Very nice

Thanks morrie. this pump is actully 2 pumps in one. its really a quiet race pump. one turns on to move the truck and the other one gets turned on when you stage at the line.....Iam not goin to drag racing this at all. and really for me running a carburator this is overkill. BUT I did get it for the reason one pump was to crap out on me some where I can hit the switch and turn the other one on. It wasnt cheap ,but cheaper than a tow truck bill if something was to happen.

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Thanks morrie. this pump is actully 2 pumps in one. its really a quiet race pump. one turns on to move the truck and the other one gets turned on when you stage at the line.....Iam not goin to drag racing this at all. and really for me running a carburator this is overkill. BUT I did get it for the reason one pump was to crap out on me some where I can hit the switch and turn the other one on. It wasnt cheap ,but cheaper than a tow truck bill if something was to happen.

Yeah I remember our phone call talking about this pump. What are the spec's on this pump; gph and PSI's?? Nice work buddy.

[slammed57]

if both pumps are running at the same time is 180 gph at 8 psi .... with only one pump on its 90gph at 8psi.......for the reason I had to go with a fuel regulator