85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

[aggie91]

For painted bolt heads, I have put some masking tape on the inside of the socket to protect the paint, it gives a bit of cushion and I have had good results without having to touch up the paint at all on the bolts. Another thing that works is some heavy duty plastic wrap out of the kitchen or some industrial stretch wrap used to wrap pallets for shipping.

I have seen those actuator connectors online before, but now I cannot find them...

[05duramaxhd]

When you are working inside the doors. Take masking tape and go around the openings. This saves the arms very well. Looking great!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 05duramaxhd

When you are working inside the doors. Take masking tape and go around the openings. This saves the arms very well. Looking great!

That's good advice. The edge of the openings are a bit abrasive, but it's the inner mechanical components that get me the most. I use disposable gloves most of the times, but you have to take them off when working with anything sticky.

Originally Posted by aggie91

For painted bolt heads, I have put some masking tape on the inside of the socket to protect the paint, it gives a bit of cushion and I have had good results without having to touch up the paint at all on the bolts. Another thing that works is some heavy duty plastic wrap out of the kitchen or some industrial stretch wrap used to wrap pallets for shipping.
I have seen those actuator connectors online before, but now I cannot find them...

I have used various forms of protection when installing chrome bolts. As I mentioned, I just do touch up on painted bolts.
I searched Dorman for a replacement connector. They offer one that says it fits my application but it does not. Still looking...

[N2TRUX]

Sunday night we wrapped up early. Chris had errands to run and I needed to pick up parts. My Relaxed Atmosphere brother Heath had a spare set of vent windows available after he installed the One Piece window kit conversion. He knew mine were in bad shape, so he hooked me up.
I plan to have them completely reconditioned by Precision Replacement Parts after @c10sinthepark but wanted to ensure they fit my truck properly.
I masked them up and squeezed them in the blasting cabinet. I blasted them and followed that with wet sanding and a solvent bath. A few coats of satin black and they look so much better. They still need a complete rebuild but they will work for now.

[LDO]

Same satin black you've been using throughout the truck that you mentioned earlier in your thread?

[mcbassin]

Very nice work Ken. All those little details are coming together nicely.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LDO

Same satin black you've been using throughout the truck that you mentioned earlier in your thread?

Yes sir. Its not the correct sheen for a true factory look, but its better than the rust. Precision Replacement Parts will make them look show room fresh when the time comes.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice work Ken. All those little details are coming together nicely.

Thank you sir. I hope they come together quick enough to be ready for C10s in the Park.

[LDO]

Came home from work yesterday and your thread motivated me to get off my butt and re-wrap my PW and PDL wire harness. It really didn't take very long and it looked 10x better when I got done!

[N2TRUX]

In honor of humpday I worked on some humps and bumps tonight. The front of the bed looked like a bag of marbles on one side. If you look close at the bottom of the panel below the protruding dings, you can see the bead is smashed flat.
It's really hard to take pics, but I got the majority of the humps and bumps out and the bead has is a straight line again. Just a bit more hammer and dolly work and it's ready for primer.

Also note the bolts that hold the panel in at the bottom have been cut down. It drives me crazy how GM used bolts that were 1/2 too long to hold panels together.

[N2TRUX]

I plan to restore and update the gauge cluster soon. In anticipation of the mods, I started looking for a tach or tach cluster. I was fortunate enough to be offered a GMC Sports tach/fuel gauge combo for a buddy deal. Now I need some true white LEDs .

[LDO]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I plan to restore and update the gauge cluster soon. In anticipation of the mods, I started looking for a tach or tach cluster. I was fortunate enough to be offered a GMC Sports tach/fuel gauge combo for a buddy deal. Now I need some true white LEDs .

Wow,
that is sweet! How would one go about finding such an item?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LDO

Wow,that is sweet! How would one go about finding such an item?

They can be found at GMsports.com They offer a 7k tach and a 7k tach/fuel combo.

[LDO]

Thank you sir.

[N2TRUX]

I had intended to use PPG base/clear to finish the panel out till I priced materials. The cost of paint has gone up again, and red is always higher.
Buying supplies that I wouldn't need beyond this repair didn't make sense.
I looked at the Duplicolor refinishing system. They offer primer and paint at much more affordable but it's limited on colors. Unfortunately there wasn't one that matched my truck so I looked for a plan "C".

Rust-Oleum has a farm equipment line and it turns out the International Farm all red is an excellent match. Is it possible I had a viable solution for less than $20.00? I bought the recommended filler primer and was on my way.

[N2TRUX]

I had not been able to find my body hammers so I had improvised till now. I located my flat hammer, but not the shrinking hammer so I spent some quality time with my little friend.

My metal working skills are pretty rusty and I battled with one side of my work are having bed liner that really restricted my ability to see what I was doing.
I still managed to make it much better than what I had started with and it was far smoother than the factory header panel above my repair

I spot primed and blocked, followed by a full coat of primer that was wet sanded smooth. I must admit for rattle can primer the end result was much better than expected.

[N2TRUX]

One more coat of primer and I blocked and wet sanded it smooth. I remasked the area and cut in the color. I was very pleased with the coverage and it went on wet yet didn't try to sag or run.
I managed to get two good wet coats and still have paint left. Other than a nozzle that requires a lot of force, this Rust-Oleum system worked much better than expected. After a couple of hours dry time it still had a very nice shine.

Well played Rust-Oleum, we'll played.

[LDO]

That turned out pretty nice. Quite the inspiration!

[aggie91]

That really did turn out nice for less than $20 in materials. It's mostly hidden when assembled, so I doubt anyone would even notice that I might not be an exact match.

Well done!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LDO

That turned out pretty nice. Quite the inspiration!

Originally Posted by aggie91

That really did turn out nice for less than $20 in materials. It's mostly hidden when assembled, so I doubt anyone would even notice that I might not be an exact match. Well done!

Thanks guys. Karl I was told that the red was the original color but my research indicates its close but not exact.
That meant I would have to have the PPG store custom match the color. They cant do a pint when doing matches, so I would have to buy quart of color, as well as the corresponding reducer, and hardener. That doesn't include the clear and required materials. You can see how quickly that would escalate cost.

DupliColor has a much more economical system designed for the "do it yourselfer" that gets decent reviews. Unfortunately the colors in stock weren't even close to mine.

It turns out that International Harvester red is very close. In most light its a 98% match. As you mentioned, this panel wont be visible in direct light so I think it will pass inspection.

What I do know is it looks so much better than the base coat with out clear and lots of lumps.

[GAc10boy]

Very nice! I use that Rustoleum 2n1 primer with pretty good results. I'm even an amateur rattle can painter and it treats me well.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

Very nice! I use that Rustoleum 2n1 primer with pretty good results. I'm even an amateur rattle can painter and it treats me well.

Practice makes you better at anything. Proper preparation gives good results no matter what paint is used.

[LT7A]

N2,

I enjoy seeing your progress (and your sometimes need for doggedness) on this build. I am learning how to do a little bit at a time, like you said. Rather than shoot for too much and get frustrated, and ultimately accomplishing less, which has been a pattern for me.

The front panel in the bed says much about your abilities with the bodyworking tools and with a spray can. It is hard for me to get an even glossy coat on something that big. It's always cool to me to see the less-than-20-buck solution when the alternative could have been in the hundreds.

I was (jokingly) curious about the math of 5 40 lb boxes (200 lbs) vs two big guys... and the candy got it done? Haha. Anyway, I also wanted to back you up on the painting of the inside of the bumpers. I've done it on one project and will be doing it again. It rusts there, it can actually be visible at certain angles. Nice work on that. Care to share the silver paint product you used? It looks good.

LT

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LT7A

N2,

I enjoy seeing your progress (and your sometimes need for doggedness) on this build. I am learning how to do a little bit at a time, like you said. Rather than shoot for too much and get frustrated, and ultimately accomplishing less, which has been a pattern for me.

The front panel in the bed says much about your abilities with the bodyworking tools and with a spray can. It is hard for me to get an even glossy coat on something that big. It's always cool to me to see the less-than-20-buck solution when the alternative could have been in the hundreds.

I was (jokingly) curious about the math of 5 40 lb boxes (200 lbs) vs two big guys... and the candy got it done? Haha. Anyway, I also wanted to back you up on the painting of the inside of the bumpers. I've done it on one project and will be doing it again. It rusts there, it can actually be visible at certain angles. Nice work on that. Care to share the silver paint product you used? It looks good.

LT

Like anything in life persistence is the key to success. I am very motivated by achievement. That's why I try to break my work down in small achievable jobs that can be finished in a night or two. I can go to bed feeling good that I accomplished my objective.

Regarding the boxes for ballast, that included the big old boys too. We tried with both of us and it wasn't enough.

I have tried several brands of "chrome" paint and not pleased with any. On the bumpers I used a bright aluminum from Ace Hardware. It's not chrome but it does have a nice bright finish.

[N2TRUX]

Well I thought I was through with the front panel on my bed till it cured over night. I missed the inside of the top rail and overlooked some small chips that were visible with day light shining in.
I masked the upper brace and wet sanding with a flexible block. I got the chips smooth and tried again. This time I tilted the bed and stood on a ladder to get under the radius of the cross brace. I laid down 3 wet coats and called it done.

[Desert1957]

That's amazing for a "Rattle Can" job. I never considered any touch up work using this method. Nice job,