Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread

[hgs_notes]

Didn't do anything today except order some chassis paint and body mount bushings. I'm going to try the summit racing chassis epoxy paint on the frame and see how that works out. It was only $55 for the kit. The body bushings were also through summit. They had the poly kit for $95. I had briefly considered using hockey pucks, seriously. But the thickness is not the same for all the mounts ( I guess the level differences could be made up by washers) and it would be hard to use them on the lower portion. You just can't find a good cheap alternative for those.

[hgs_notes]

My plans for the build have been evolving almost since the beginning. At first it was just get it running as a beater, then maybe make it street worthy. Then I started learning how to do bodywork and I'm gaining the skills to do better than that. It's now a few years later and my son wants it for when he can drive in just another year and a half.

I had planned to use the dark blue body I traded a pair of fenders for as a replacement for this one. It does need some work, but it was basically free, which is one of the main goals of this build. It needs the windshield frame replaced ( I have one), inner/outer rockers, some floor work, maybe A and/or B pillar patches, driver bed side dents and a gash cut into it, and probably more that I won't find until I start cutting.

On the other hand, I have a yellow body from AZ that is near rust free, needs the passenger bed side pulled out straight, but otherwise is straight and solid. But it cost me $750 or so. I think I'll use the better quality body and save myself valuable time and a lot of hassle.

I had hoped to keep the entire build to less than $1000. Adding this body will almost double the investment, but I think it will be worth it. I think I might be able to complete the entire truck for around $3000, with paint and a fresh engine included. The only body parts left to buy would be a passenger fender, inner fenders, and maybe a couple patch panels. It needs some exhaust pipes, transfer case gaskets/seals, better steering wheel, seat covers, and better tires. There's more of course, but I'm still selling things, still scrounging the yards and talking to people, still learning, still happy when I'm turning a wrench, still willing to shake rust into my face with a power tool underneath the beast.

[hgs_notes]

I'm going to try and get the body off sunday and start cleaning the frame off with the pressure washer. See if there is anything alse that needs fixing while it's off. I think I'm going to have at least one weld repair on the frame where the rear body mount is rusted away.

[hgs_notes]

The old body is off, but not without a fight.


Seems like the supports underneath just were not goinf to hold that firewall up, but we went up a little more just to see. We stopped here because the firewall was pushing against the distributor.


So we got the sawzall out and split it in two. The bed came off easy enough.


Would make a cool little low rider trailer huh?


The firewall was a struggle for 2 people. We had to flip it towards the back to get it over the transfer case shifter. This was the only way I could think of to lift it off.


That left us here.


The bed was covered in a sheet of aluminum and I pulled that off to get the original rubber pads out from under it. The floor was a bit rusted.

[hgs_notes]

It took over an hour to get that bumper off. The hitch was partially welded to the frame and bumper brackets. My son helped by stripping as many usable parts off the bed as possible. We got the rubber floor pads, all of the tail light stuff I worked so hard on last year, the side trim pieces, tailgate weather strip hardware and the gas filler, vent and cover. There wasn't much left after that.

I got the shocks off it and that's about it for the chassis work. Then we spent a couple hours blasting it with the pressure washer. I was soaked head to toe, but I got most of the grime off. A couple of the body mounts will need some weld repairs, and the tail ends of the frame rails. No other major problems found.

Here is the current status after washing.



I need a new dipstick for the tranny, and a kickdown cable. I want to lift it, but not sure how I'll do the rear yet. I'll need springs for the front, but I was thinking of doing the shackle flip for the rear. Depends on the condition of the springs. I'm only planning on running 32 or 33" tires, so 2 1/2 front and 4" rear should be adequate.

[hgs_notes]

The remains of the day...


I think I got it stripped pretty well. We have a long weekend coming up. Maybe I'll be able to get the frame repairs done, then the chassis painted. If I get that done I'll probably try to get the new tub epoxy primered on the bottom side and mounted up, but I'm probably being too optimistic.

[hgs_notes]

I had a few body mounts that were severely corroded. My plan to repair them was to just weld some 1-1/2" washers in position. But then I started looking over some parts I had cut from the broken blazer frame I scrapped out, and all of the mounts on those pieces were good. I just have to cut off the rivets and replace them with ones I already have. The cross member in front of the rear axle was also getting thin from rust and I have that part also. So lots of grinding to do later. I just need to buy a few good bolts.




One of the replacement mounts is off and ready to use.


I do have to weld repair the frame rails at the rear bumper though. That's really bad. I think I have enough pieces of frame rail around to use for patches though. Even if I cut it off like the 69-71 style frame, it would need repaired because the area where the rear most body mount goes is almost completely gone on the pass side and super thin on the driver side.

New bushings...


I'm going to try this paint out, see if I like it...


This brings my total spent up to $993.

[hgs_notes]

I had a full day of cutting and grinding on the frame today. I got all of the mid cross member swapped out, and the body mounts that were rusted bad. Here are the new parts, this was after removing 30 rivits...


Here is the crossmember and body mounts bolted back in, after removing another 18 rivits


The new rear body mount in, only 2 rivits...


And I removed the rear cross member because it was rusted through on the passenger side, and I had one from another frame. I thought I had scrapped it, but found it inside a blazer tub. Another 4 rivits. No picture of that.

Then I decided to siphon the gas out of the tank and the easiest access was to remove the sending unit, which then allowed me to find out why the gas gage didn't work. The float was flooded. You might be able to see the droplets spraying out as I squeezed the float...


Then to finish the day, I found a leak on the gas tank, which had been patched at least twice before. Time to shop around for another one...


That leaves me to todays scrap pile. Oh and I spent about $10 on new 7/16" x 1" nuts, washers & bolts, for a total spent of $1003. I'm hoping to get the weld repairs done on the frame this weekend yet. And I'm debating on whether or not to get the fram sandblasted before painting it. It's pretty rusty yet. All I would have to do is remove a few bolts and lift the engine/tranny/t-case out and pull the driveshafts. Probably about $100 to get it done, but might be worth it. I think I am going to do the shackle flip also. I already have the leaf spring brackets to do it. I can either re-use the shackles or see how much new ones are, then replace some bushings. Depends on cost I guess.

[1956cameo]

This is definately one of the more interesting build threads I have seen on here! I have actually been following it for quite a while and decided it was time to subscribe. I am glad to see that there are other people on here that have the energy to take on a REAL project. One that truly brings a vehicle back from the scrap heap. Keep the reports coming, I can't wait to see more.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 1956cameo

This is definately one of the more interesting build threads I have seen on here! I have actually been following it for quite a while and decided it was time to subscribe. I am glad to see that there are other people on here that have the energy to take on a REAL project. One that truly brings a vehicle back from the scrap heap. Keep the reports coming, I can't wait to see more.

Thanks for the encouragement. I know a lot of people follow this thread, but I don't get many comments.

I just ordered a set of poly leaf spring bushings, real cheap at $14. The pic even shows shackles included, just need to buy bolts. The bad news is it was on back order, even though it shows a shipping date of tuesday everywhere you look except for when the order was completed. So that may be a couple weeks, I don't know for sure. I think the net lift doing the shackle flip is about 4" and should only cost me about $20 total.

I also ordered an exhaust kit for $165 w/out mufflers. I have a good pair of mufflers though. I've also contacted teeitup about the gas tank and rear frame horns and a couple other doo-dads on a 72 blazer he just got in. Maybe I'll hear back from him in the next day or so.

[jacobriley]

Man, awesome build...

I bet your son is pretty excited to cruise that thing around when its time... lets hope his foot isn't as heavy as mine was at that age.

Keep it up!

[hgs_notes]

I forgot something from my last post. I have a hitch that I used to have on my C-10, but will no longer use. At the time I bought it, you could not find the correct one for these trucks, so I bought a 73 and up hitch and modified it. If you take the side pieces and swap them so the top plate is bent inwards rather than outwards, it almost fits, but there is a gap. So I had 1/2" plate cut to size to use as a spacer and had holes drilled to match the hitch bolts. It worked perfectly for the truck. Not so much for the Jimmy. I'll have to make some holes in the Jimmy frame for it to bolt in, but it will really strengthen the rear end of the frame. It's about 1/4" plate. It will act as an added rear crossmember, and I might be able to use it as a base to bolt a home made gas tank skid plate onto. You can see in the pics it lines up on the frame perfectly and will cover most of the sides of a gas tank as is. I already checked the bumper fit and should be ok there as well.

Got the parking brake cables ordered from LMC, $50 for the pair.

[bigguy69]

i like it!!

[hgs_notes]

Yesterday I was working on my C-10, stripping paint off the tailgate. I was doing ok, but the corners in the lettering were giving me fits. I decided to break out my sandblaster and give it a try. I had some trouble with it the last time I used it. The control valve at the nozzle quit working, it would spray air and grit non-stop, not good. I bought a new valve, and finished up the tailgate. It was working pretty good, so I rolled it over to the Jimmy frame. I got it pretty good from the tranny back, but ran out of sand. I will probably pull the engine/tranny and finish it up another day.

Just for your info, sandblasting is terribly messy work, and not exactly cheap. I need to find some cheaper sand. I paid $26 per bucket, about 25 lbs.

[hgs_notes]

Picked up a gas tank from daburb yesterday for $25, including a sending unit. Visited for a couple hours and he made me late getting home. If your ever in the area west of Minneapolis and want to talk and see trucks, look him up. I also paid for a tailgate from Tom Korinek down in AZ, which should be coming soon, and found a pair of rear frame horns from Southern parts which should be coming soon.

Daburb had a set of 32" tires with a nice mud terrain tread that I might also get for this rig. I still need to find a passenger side fender and inner fender. Once all of the parts get delivered I can finish up the chassis work, then hope for good weather to paint the frame before it's too cold outside.

[hgs_notes]

The 72 blazer/jimmy frames are unique with having the rear bumper mount directly to the frame when the other years are like the truck mount. I've learned that all of the suburbans were also made like the 72 blazer/jimmy frame, but they are different. For those of us rust belt 72 jimmy/blazer owners, the burb parts may be a good option to repair the rear body mount area of the frame.

I got the suburban frame horns today and did a comparison with the blazer frame horns. The blazer/jimmy style is straighter with the frame then curves down after the rear body mount. The suburban style has a slight drop in the frame before the rear body mount, then curves down a smaller amount. It is also a different length between the body mount location and the end where the bumper mounts to.

These will still work for my needs though. I really just need to replace the sections that are corroded away and the burb style will work just fine for that. I just want everyone to understand they are not a replacement piece without modification. I'll get some pics up later showing the differences.

I got a tailgate on the way here from AZ. It's not perfect, but looked repairable from the pics.

I came across another gate at a swap meet last weekend. I could have had it for $50, probably less. It wasn't even rusted much, but had about 1/2" bow in it and the inner panel was banged up in a few spots. Really not that bad, but I just spent a bunch on a better one, so I walked away. There were not a lot of 67-72 parts there, even though it was a good sized meet. There was a tilt column, a tach dash, a couple ok doors for cheap, couple 67 grills, that's about it. I came home with one deluxe side marker and some garage decorations, pics later. But my wife enjoyed it and I might have a lead on a fender or some other parts from a local guy.

There were some nice 67-72 trucks there for the show and for sale also. One 69 blazer, nice rebuild with a soft top for $12900 I think. I think I got some pics of it somewhere.

Anyway, not really progress here, but some handy info on frame horns, and the promise of more pics later. I might get the frame welded up this weekend. I'm going to take a bunch of time off next week and see if I can get this pig back into a single pile of rolling parts again.

[VA72C10]

thanks for the info and keep at it!

[hgs_notes]

Some pics from sandays show...

I really like the background on this gage. I might look for that to do on my C-10 gage cluster. Wierd, I just noticed the 10 is backwards, the same as the other side of the gage, but just looks funny being the only backwards one on that side.


Heres a funky little scooter...


My favorite bumper sticker from the show...


The one blazer I saw. I like the cloth on the seats, door panels, kick panels and even on the dash, not so much on the console. To each his own. I've seen some trucks that had the cloth on all of the interior steel also, and I had thought about doing it on my truck. Then reconsidered knowing how dirty I get and how much of a pain it would be to clean. Very nice blazer though.

[hgs_notes]

Good news/bad news. First the good, I think I found the passenger side fender. I actually found a pair of fenders and a hood, rust free AZ parts. I'll be going to look at them tomorrow, but I'm almost certain I'll be bringing it home. And the bad news, I got the bushings from Summit I was waiting for today, but it was just the 2 top shackle bushings, so I had to order another set for the springs themselves. Let's just say the information and image on their site was not even close to an accurate representation of what they were selling. At least they were in stock and should be here in a few days.

Now I have pretty much all the major parts to put the jimmy back together. Frame patches, bushings for the rear leafs, brackets for shackle swap, new e brake cables, new bushings for transfer case, chassis paint, gas tank, and body mounts/bushings. The body tub is just sitting and waiting to be cleaned up and primered. I have all of the interior parts I need for now, Should have everything for the front clip except the passenger side inner fender, I think I have 2 good doors (might have to cut truck doors, but I have them) tailgate should be here friday, I have 2 good tops to pic from and at least one solid hatch right now. I guess the only things I'm still looking for are the vortec heads and intake for my rebuilt short block and some lifted front leaf springs.

Next week will be a bit busy I think.

[hgs_notes]

Time to update my build costs, it's been a while. I was at $1507 the last time I figured it. Now I didn't use the rear leaf bushings, and don't know if I will, so at least for now, I'm removing that cost of $65. The rebuilt short block is about $200 more than what I paid for the engine I pulled out of it. The hitch was laying around the garage, no cost. I had to buy some fuel lines, vent lines, sending unit screen, etc. and spent about $27 for that stuff. I paid $750 for this body tub. So it looks like I'm up to $2419.

It's going to be very hard to stay under $3000 even if I paint it myself. I still need some engine parts or I'll have to use the crappy smog heads from the other engine, yuck. Still have to get the tires, and a lot of seals and other rubber products. Staying under $3000 might have been possible if I used the blue body, but it needed way more rust repair. This one had a solid windshield frame, rockers are pretty good, included the gas filler and some other parts the blue one was missing. At least I'm putting both bodies to good use.

[hgs_notes]

I got a pair of fenders today from a 69 GMC. Found them on craigslist, month old ad, $50 for the pair. Driver side has one dent, not bad, passenger side has a couple dents, but I think I can hammer most of them out. They came with full trim and front eyebrows too. He also has a perfect hood that I'll have to go back for, it wouldn't fit in my car. Another good deal there. It basically needs a scuff and paint.

driver side dent...

pass side dents...


And the new tailgate was delivered. That was $190 total, but I think it was worth more. A couple dents on the inside, almost perfect outside (other than the hideous rattle can paint) and perfectly straight. Only problem is it doesn't say GMC. I can live with that for a while. I'm a fan of T korinek on parts. This was probably my 3rd or 4th buy from him.



So, now I just need the inner fender and some better engine parts. And let's not forget all the little miscelanious things that come up, but the bulk of the stuff is on hand or can be delievered in a few days. This is going to be a pretty nice ride.

[VA72C10]

great parts scores...shocked those fenders were so cheap and on for so long...

[hgs_notes]

Oh and here is the garage art I got at the swap meet. The wall is starting to fill up...

[VA72C10]

very nice! I'm doing the same thing in my garage....

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

very nice! I'm doing the same thing in my garage....

Nice, I can almost see the wall back there .

Here is a "How to" that I don't think I've seen before, maybe for good reason. How to rebuild 72 blazer/jimmy rear frame horns.

I've had 3 72 blazer frames, everyone was rusted at the rear body bushing mount. Kind of a hard part to come across, but I found out that suburbans all had a similar style. Not the same, but close, and they are somewhat plentiful because it's not tied to just one year.

So I started here.


First I cut off the horn section that was not rusted through. I cut right where the frame starts the downward bend.



Did a little sandblasting to get the rust off for easier welding.


Then using the bushing mount hole as a reference, I cut the burb frame section behind the hole. It was about 3/4" from the edge of the hole.


I beveled one of the frame sections to get a good root pass on the weld. I started by welding the inside of it at the top and bottom. This helps keep the frame section straight. Then I gring the outside of the weld joint down to the weld I just did. This is called back gouging, and ensures 100% penetration.




Then I marked the frame to cut off the rusted mount section. And then cut the new piece to match it.