Daverods project 66

[protrash64]

Hey daverod, wouldn't it be possible to just cut the ends where the frame rail meets the x-member instead of cutting the whole thing? Ive never done it nor do I have the parts sitting in front of me. Just a thought.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by daverod

I never really got that far in my thought process. Wouldnt you just drill new holes 1 1/2" higher then the old holes. It lookes you would have to fill in the big holes? What are the big holes for?

I believe those large holes are for access to the upper control arm mounting bolts/studs......incase they need to be changed I guess.

[daverod]

Thanks Capt.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Hey daverod, wouldn't it be possible to just cut the ends where the frame rail meets the x-member instead of cutting the whole thing? Ive never done it nor do I have the parts sitting in front of me. Just a thought.

Now you come up with that idea? After I just spent all that time. It seems like it would work? I think it would be easier then cutting the whole thing. It might be harder to mount to trhe frame? All things to think about. I'll sleep on it. Ya I sleep Allan.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by daverod

Now you come up with that idea? After I just spent all that time. It seems like it would work? I think it would be easier then cutting the whole thing. It might be harder to mount to trhe frame? All things to think about. I'll sleep on it. Ya I sleep Allan.

I believe you need the whole cross member sectioned like you did to clear your oil pan.....


I agree with you on the welding the access holes for the upper arm studs and drilling new holes...seems like the thing to do....but you might wanna cut some new access holes....just in case....

[Captainfab]

Doing it this way, you can still use factory motor mount brackets. Otherwise you would most likely have to fab some new motor mont brackets as well.

[daverod]

I'm going to weld up both holes and drill some new ones. I knew there was reason nobody just cut a notch out. If it was that easy everyone would do it. Now I'm wondering if my transmission was going to hit the hump? Just somthing else to think about?

[joe231]

your engine and transmission should stay in the same relation to the cab and frame, all you are doing is moving the suspension up, you might have some steering linkage issues though.....

[daverod]

It seems like the engine and trans would also be 1 1/2 higher or closer to the floor of the cab? I got it. Your right like always. Thanks joe

[protrash64]

I thought about the motor mount issue, but I swear Ive seen it done. I need to find the Street Trucks article about this...circa 2000. Turner Fab used to sell a kit with all the pieces; you cut the x-member, and then used their patch pieces to put it back together.

Well, looks like daverod will be guru on this

[daverod]

Ya, now FrizzleFry has no excuses. "Yes, please inspire me to chop my spare". Chop,Chop I don't know about the guru part. I just finished my first 10lb of wire. My welding is getting better though. I looking forward to welding somthing besides rusty body panels.

[protrash64]

Ok guys.....I was right. I dug through my extensive library of Streettrucks mags and found the original articles on lowering trucks the ole school way. The first article appeared in Jan 2000 (issue 4). The follow-up appeared in March 2000(issue 6).

They only chopped out the location where the frame rails went thru the x-member. Lowers the truck 1.3-1.5''. They then section the lower half of the motor perches to keep the engine in its correct location. They also make a large notch across the front of the crossmember to provide clearance for the centerlink. They use the service hole for the upper a-arm bolts to mount the crossmember and drill 2 new holes thru to bolt it on.

I tried to search the site, but could not get a link to these 2 articles. I think the only way to get them is to get the mags.

[daverod]

Cool now we know a different way to do it. The way I did it was'nt very hard. I bet I had it laided out and cut in 2 hours. Pussed out on welding it though. Took it to the blacksmith. He's a hell of a welder. $80 cash, got to love the cash, be ready thursday. Hell, it would have cost my $20 in materials( wire, metal for the ends, grinding wheels, more grinding wheels, more wire). Parts fairy brought me my notch for the rear. Funny, all I hear is the door bell and then new parts. Got to love it.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Ok guys.....I was right. I dug through my extensive library of Streettrucks mags and found the original articles on lowering trucks the ole school way. The first article appeared in Jan 2000 (issue 4). The follow-up appeared in March 2000(issue 6).

They only chopped out the location where the frame rails went thru the x-member. Lowers the truck 1.3-1.5''. They then section the lower half of the motor perches to keep the engine in its correct location. They also make a large notch across the front of the crossmember to provide clearance for the centerlink. They use the service hole for the upper a-arm bolts to mount the crossmember and drill 2 new holes thru to bolt it on.

I tried to search the site, but could not get a link to these 2 articles. I think the only way to get them is to get the mags.

well I guess you better get busy scanning them in so you can post them here

[daverod]

Ya we need pic's. I still have another cross member.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Ok guys.....I was right. I dug through my extensive library of Streettrucks mags and found the original articles on lowering trucks the ole school way. The first article appeared in Jan 2000 (issue 4). The follow-up appeared in March 2000(issue 6).

They only chopped out the location where the frame rails went thru the x-member. Lowers the truck 1.3-1.5''. They then section the lower half of the motor perches to keep the engine in its correct location. They also make a large notch across the front of the crossmember to provide clearance for the centerlink. They use the service hole for the upper a-arm bolts to mount the crossmember and drill 2 new holes thru to bolt it on.

I tried to search the site, but could not get a link to these 2 articles. I think the only way to get them is to get the mags.

I remember that tech article. Since you read StreetTrucks back then do remember this truck.


It was my sons truck. He did a lot of tech pages for the magazine. But not the one we're talking about. He owned Sportruck Specialties in Carson, Ca, and I owned Sportruck Specialties in Simi Valley, Ca.

[daverod]

Well , get scanning. We need pic's. That's cool your kinda like famous and stuff. I wish I would have gotton into trucks/cars sooner. In 2000 I was busting my a$$ framing houses for the man.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

Wel,l get scanning. We need pic's.

I save all my old magazines. I'll look for it.

[protrash64]

I remember that truck...it was very nice. A bunch the tech articles were about the 4cyl performance IIRC. Kinda like 'jumbo shrimp' in my book

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by protrash64

I remember that truck...it was very nice. A bunch the tech articles were about the 4cyl performance IIRC. Kinda like 'jumbo shrimp' in my book

He did pretty good selling the 4 cylinder stuff. He is still selling them. But not as much. He's into Cafe Racers now building bikes.
http://www.lossaengineering.com/

[daverod]

Some of those bikes your son has remind me of an old yz 80 I have sitting out in my barn. I was going to restore it at one time, still runs had it since I was 14. Cut all the crap off my frame now all I have to do is make a pattern so I'll know where to cut.

[daverod]

Got one side cut out. Made a nice pattern. Put it on backwards,and cut it out, nice. It only made a difference of about 1/2" of metal. What did Stodder say about drinking and working. I'll make sure and do the other side the same so they match.

[ruffrida2005]

Dave I know you were looking at airbagit.com. I'm going to tell you to stay away from there. The bags they sell are cheap because they suck, I would say go with Airlift D2600 bags or RE7's, Firestone and connitech aren't that bad, but you pay for what you get. If you want ones that wont give you problems get either of the first 2 I told you about. The RE7's have a internal bump stop in them. But they are costly at over 100 a bag. Check out ***************** they sometimes give discounts on their bags.

[daverod]

Thanks Ruffrida. I'm thinking about just putting bags on the back.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Dave I know you were looking at airbagit.com. I'm going to tell you to stay away from there. The bags they sell are cheap because they suck, I would say go with Airlift D2600 bags or RE7's, Firestone and connitech aren't that bad, but you pay for what you get. If you want ones that wont give you problems get either of the first 2 I told you about. The RE7's have a internal bump stop in them. But they are costly at over 100 a bag. Check out ***************** they sometimes give discounts on their bags.

I've used Firestone, and Contitech bags all the time. The biggest problem is the person installing them incorrectly. Other wise I never had a failure. I sell Contitech bags for $69.00 each.