72 k20 project

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

misses the AFC with plenty of room, but i think i may ditch that anyhow, so there will bee tons of room.

Are you sure you want to do that? It will be a doggy turd or a doggy smokey turd.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

What if you turn the intake plate backwards? Does that offer more clearance with the hole in the back ?
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i think it would just be worse or no better. it would put the stock stuff into the MC even harder.

Originally Posted by RatRod68

I want to say someone else on this board has a 24V intake plate on his. I do like your idea of building something custom. I can only imagine how BA it will look

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

If I remember correctly, the 24v one won't work because the 12v injection lines interfere with the intake hole.

i could bolt it on there, but i dont want to redo the injector lines. i could probably beat the OEM ones into clearance, but that would never do.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Are you sure you want to do that? It will be a doggy turd or a doggy smokey turd.

Not right now, but one never knows what the future may bring!

[Last_Paladin]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

i think it would just be worse or no better. it would put the stock stuff into the MC even harder.





i could bolt it on there, but i dont want to redo the injector lines. i could probably beat the OEM ones into clearance, but that would never do.



Not right now, but one never knows what the future may bring!

Why not rotate the hydro assist booster? I have mine mounted with the accumulator on the other side.

[ryanroo]

i certainly could, but there is no need. it clears everything just fine. i was just joking around about pulling the AFC since it would be far from a daily driver/tow rig if i did. it would be pretty hot and not need to worry about low boost fueling. not good for the current plan.

i've found that it helps bleeding a HB system if you can crack the lines at the booster, so unless i had no other option i would prefer to leave the ports on top. outside of the intake horn, it all clears really well.

Ryan

[Dieselwrencher]

I like the fabricated intakes better any way. Then you can weld in bungs for gauges, injectables, or what ever.

[ryanroo]

ooo, injectables. that sounds like fun!

i made a more final HB mounting bracket. pretty slick mount, but i had to enlarge the hole in the firewall with a rotary file to get the HB nut to pass through. next will be to figure the push rod attachment, and i can cross this off the list. i may have to find an auto pedal set up too, or i might just modify this one.





ryan

[mcmlxix]

Please test fit your steering column firewall mount. It might have a clearance issue with your new plate... this isnt a great pic but the lower corner is notched to clear the bracket. This is my CaptainFab bracket...

[ryanroo]

i kind of anticipated i would have to do something there. it clears the bolt hole, but it sill may need some clearancing to fit.i have the bod guy coming tonight to look it over, so i will probably try to test it after that

Ryan

[Dieselwrencher]

Ryan, I have an auto pedal assy I can send you...........

[ryanroo]

If you're game, i am. we can do an exchange. since your steering block is still sitting on the cowl of my truck...(shameface)

body guys are spendy... ouch. oh well. its either that or learn to do it myself.

Ryan

[Dieselwrencher]

Just PM me your addy man. I'll send it out tomorrow for you.

[mosesburb]

What is the difference between an auto pedal and a manual?? I thought they were both the the same?? Pull the lever off the end of the clutch pedal shaft and slide it out to the left and you're done. No??

[ryanroo]

I am pretty sure it is welded to the shaft. i'm sure it can be all taken apart, but it would be nice not to permanently alter it in case i or someone else needs a clutch pedal sometime. if i wreck the auto to much i may end up going to a manual later.

[Portmod7]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

What is the difference between an auto pedal and a manual?? I thought they were both the the same?? Pull the lever off the end of the clutch pedal shaft and slide it out to the left and you're done. No??

This is correct. I converted my truck to auto, just slid the clutch pedal out the side. Then I just got done converting back to manual, slide the clutch pedal back in.

Where do you work Ryan, or do you own all of the metal working tools? All your fabricated stuff looks 10x better than the factory would have done it, I love it!

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Portmod7

This is correct. I converted my truck to auto, just slid the clutch pedal out the side. Then I just got done converting back to manual, slide the clutch pedal back in.

Where do you work Ryan, or do you own all of the metal working tools? All your fabricated stuff looks 10x better than the factory would have done it, I love it!

I'll look into that closer. then maybe i wont have to bother Ryan. it makes sense that it would be removable. honestly i just glanced at it the other day and didnt really look it over closely at all

I sure wish i had all the tools! i get tools for home slowly as i need them, but most of my fabricated stuff is done on stuff so out of the league of garage affordability that i couldn't touch it unless i hit the lotto. i do have a welder at home, and do as much as i can in the garage. at work we have a 6x10 messer plasma table with a 2" capacity and a 6x10 Flow 3d waterjet table. i think it'll cut 8". we also have a 12' 235 ton accurpress CNC pressbrake. i am a welder by title, but i run all of them, except the Flow. haven't learned that yet. we also have big lathe and mill and i am a semi professional machinist. i.e. i am the machinist when our part time machinist is not there.

this is where i work.
http://www.holtsheetmetal.com/

[jbclassix]

Ryan, I may hit you up for some help on a custom mad scientist project I am planning if you would be up for it.

[ryanroo]

I will certainly listen and try to help if i can. mad scientist projects are always interesting

Ryan

[Portmod7]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

I'll look into that closer. then maybe i wont have to bother Ryan. it makes sense that it would be removable. honestly i just glanced at it the other day and didnt really look it over closely at all

I sure wish i had all the tools! i get tools for home slowly as i need them, but most of my fabricated stuff is done on stuff so out of the league of garage affordability that i couldn't touch it unless i hit the lotto. i do have a welder at home, and do as much as i can in the garage. at work we have a 6x10 messer plasma table with a 2" capacity and a 6x10 Flow 3d waterjet table. i think it'll cut 8". we also have a 12' 235 ton accurpress CNC pressbrake. i am a welder by title, but i run all of them, except the Flow. haven't learned that yet. we also have big lathe and mill and i am a semi professional machinist. i.e. i am the machinist when our part time machinist is not there.

this is where i work.
http://www.holtsheetmetal.com/

Cool! Looks like a pretty awesome job!

[ryanroo]

we do some interesting stuff, but like anything it can be a job some days. for the most part it is pretty darn good.

i played around a little this weekend. yesterday i pulled the engine. i found that due to my engine location and the mounts, from here on out the tranny comes out from beneath and then the engine comes out alone.

today i got some more done to the firewall. there are a few little things to finish and i have a lot of welding and then finishing to do. at least the big draft is closed up



since i had room, i decided to get the steering box mounted. i snatched up some .750" .156" wall DOM and started measuring and drilling.





steering box is a little crusty, but ill either rebuild it or buy a rebuilt sometime. i may also swap it out for a metric o-ring box



i also welded the engine mounts in.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice work. Mine got snowed on. Does that count for progress?

[ryanroo]

Sure, helps cure the paint right ?

Whats a fair price for a non 53 storm block pull out long block. Supposed to be good runner ? Also what would fair be on cracked running 53 long block ?

Ryan
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Sure, helps cure the paint right ?

Whats a fair price for a non 53 storm block pull out long block. Supposed to be good runner ? Also what would fair be on cracked running 53 long block ?

Ryan
Posted via Mobile Device

A non 53 storm long block should be $1200 or so. These blocks seem to bring $600 by themselves as long as they don't need a bore job. A running cracked 53 block, is it 12v or 24v? If it's 24v $600. No one wants to buy used VP44's it seems, and you're in for a full on rebuild plus the price of a block. So I usually don't pay more than $600 for them.

I've also seen a lot of early 53 blocks that have never cracked. We even did a compound turbo build on a 98 12v that had 220k on it. It wasn't cracked then, makes 750hp for a year, and still isn't cracked. If a 53 block has over 200k on it, I think it'd be fine and not crack. Just info for you in case you find a good 53 block.

[ryanroo]

ive heard that the early 53s were less prone to cracking. so i have a local add for a 99 cracked 53 block "running good when pulled" 24v. no pump, no manifold. the other is a 98 non 53 (which as i understand, should make it a mexican casting and therefore muy beuno) 24v, no pump no manifold. one has a flywheel housing the other does not. at least one has lines maybe both. both have heads. asking as 1350 for both. im thinking i may be able to get them for less. i am having a real hard time not going the p-pump 24v route....

am i crazy?!

[ryanroo]

which also begs the question, what is my 12v running long block worth. sans pump and gear housing? and more importantly, could i even sell it. i feel like i am having my big block phase all over again, only with 6bts haha

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

which also begs the question, what is my 12v running long block worth. sans pump and gear housing? and more importantly, could i even sell it. i feel like i am having my big block phase all over again, only with 6bts haha

LMAO! My brother's truck has a 00 24v with a 53 block. It had 220k? on it when he did the P-pump swap and stuck it in his truck. It has dyno'd 540hp and he sled pulled it all summer. No cracks, no electronics.

Your 12v should bring $1800-$2500 depending on how bad some one wants it. Right now I've seen guys sit on them and have to go down to $1500 to get rid of them. I'd never sell a mid miled good runner for that. Core engines with a core p-pump is $1500.