Polar Bear Suburban

[Chevy3+3]

Hey Larry I thought I read somewhere that you have had problems with your 5th gear nut on your NV4500's. I just got done with my swap over a week ago and had been driving my truck everyday and just last night developed a ringing/rattling sound only in 5th gear. The noise doesn't really change when 5th gear is under load or not.

Does this sound like a 5th gear nut problem and what have you found to be a good fix for this. I really don't have much money to throw at it and I'm told my tranny doesn't have many miles on the rebuild. I know some have welded the nut on with great results but also know that sometimes the welds break and then you must install a new shaft.

What are your thoughts, Thanks

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Chevy3+3

Hey Larry I thought I read somewhere that you have had problems with your 5th gear nut on your NV4500's. I just got done with my swap over a week ago and had been driving my truck everyday and just last night developed a ringing/rattling sound only in 5th gear. The noise doesn't really change when 5th gear is under load or not.

Does this sound like a 5th gear nut problem and what have you found to be a good fix for this. I really don't have much money to throw at it and I'm told my tranny doesn't have many miles on the rebuild. I know some have welded the nut on with great results but also know that sometimes the welds break and then you must install a new shaft.

What are your thoughts, Thanks

Yeah, I had 5th gear issues where getting it into 5th was like getting in an arm wrestle with the shift lever. Also had them where 5th gear screamed like crazy. NV4500’s are weird because some make more “normal” noises than others. Curious how many NV4500’s you’ve driven to compare this as a normal characteristic or something out of the ordinary. NV4500’s are finicky!

Funny you should bring this up as I just got a reman NV4500 for the Polar Bear about 3 weeks ago. The new one shifts fine but it makes a huge racket in 5th gear…not under acceleration or coast but a coast with a slight tip in of the throttle. Hard to explain the noise but it sounds like something inside is loose. The closest thing I’ve ever heard to a noise like this is when the idler gear in the NP205 in the K10 was loose and would bounce around under a slight tip on of the throttle on a partial coast when the gears are somewhat relaxed. I’ve been going round and round with the reman company where they said “No problem….ship it back and we’ll take a look”. And I’m like nooooo…..you guys send me another one so I don’t have to have my shop plugged with the Suburban for 3 weeks while this one gets shipped back, they take a look/fix then ship it back. They aren’t willing to send me another unless I pay for it then they will reimburse me once they tear into it and confirm a defect on their part. That leaves me in an awkward position with $1000 on the line hoping they will be honest and own up to an issue rather than pull some shenanigans that reman companies are famous for pulling. I guess they’ve been burned before where they won’t ship anything until they confirm the issue is theirs and not an installation error. There is no error even a moron could do with the installation that would cause this noise other than something went wrong during their rebuild. Very frustrating.

I tell ya, I am done with NV4500’s after this mess gets resolved. The next NV4500 that dies in the K10 or this burb is getting replaced with something else even if it is an automatic. Tremec makes an equivalent transmission to a NV4500 (similar dimensions, same input and output spline size and counts) that is used in Mexican and South American market GM trucks but we never got them in the US. Tempted to see what it would take to get one of those…..or just go 4L80E next go around. I’m in a real bad mood about NV4500’s lately

[83GMCK2500]

The variety of NV4500 experience is good to hear. I own two, one is on the road, other waiting for bearing kit and mainshaft swap to 4WD. To my knowledge the one in the '96 has never been rebuilt, 293,### miles and the wear in the shift tower and general transmission behavior reflects that. Once it's warmed up it might as well not have syncros, I do a lot of double-clutching when the oil is hot. In the past month or so it's developed a howl in 5th at 60+ MPH, it howls over tires, it howls over the radio, and it's only while under drive, if I go down a good enough hill (with cruise set) or let off it quiets in an instant. Feather the throttle and it chirps out a howl in relation to drive from coast.

I'd like to find a shop that knew these intimately enough to go through both of mine.

Larry, your ZF description has me laughing at my desk, not only the mental picture but the accuracy of it.

[68Timber]

Dang, I'm surprised and a little disappointed to hear this. All you normally hear is praise for them.

[argonaut]

Are you guys running the press fit damper on your output shaft?

[Zoomad75]

Yeah I heard the noise this weekend. Odd to say the least. It's only on light load, tip in of the throttle in 5th. Which, because of the wide flat torque curve of the 8.1 could happen at 30 mph or higher. The faster it's going the worse it sounds though. Similar to putting a few golf balls in a blender and hitting Frappe. A little more muted, but rough none the less.

Normally I've got a higher tolerance for noises than Larry does (or higher amount of hearing loss), but at highway speeds it's downright obnoxious. The only way to make it stop is to completely let off the throttle or keep your foot in it. Driving either way would be annoying. Anything that makes that vibration along with the noise can't be good for itself long term.

[Chevy3+3]

Well I drained out my trans oil which didn't look fantastic. It was darker in color. When I put the transmission in I filled the oil until it ran out the fill plug. I drained almost 4 qts from it today. I started adding oil through the fill plug on flat ground and only managed to get about 3.75 qts into it before it ran our the fill plug hole. I added an extra quart through the shift tower and got it out on the road. The shifting is smoother and it did quiet the trans down some. Now I can't get 5th gear to make any noise. Only sounds from the trans now I would consider normal.

[68post]

Originally Posted by Chevy3+3

Well I drained out my trans oil which didn't look fantastic. It was darker in color. When I put the transmission in I filled the oil until it ran out the fill plug. I drained almost 4 qts from it today. I started adding oil through the fill plug on flat ground and only managed to get about 3.75 qts into it before it ran our the fill plug hole. I added an extra quart through the shift tower and got it out on the road. The shifting is smoother and it didn't quiet the trans down some. Now I can't get 5th gear to make any noise. Only sounds from the trans now I would consider normal.

What are you using for fluid ? Because they are extremely picky about their fluid. Amsoil ? GM/Dodge trans fluid ?

I'm having a problem that may not relate to my NV4500, but it would have to be the transfer case if it isn't the trans ( I need to search the web again to refresh myself of the NV4500's problems and their symptoms).
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=697706

[Chevy3+3]

Originally Posted by 68post

What are you using for fluid ? Because they are extremely picky about their fluid. Amsoil ? GM/Dodge trans fluid ?

I'm having a problem that may not relate to my NV4500, but it would have to be the transfer case if it isn't the trans ( I need to search the web again to refresh myself of the NV4500's problems and their symptoms).
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=697706

After reading countless articles about the oil I determined that no one has had any problems with the Amsoil MTG 75-90. My GM dealer wanted $30/quart for the recommended oil #12346190. I chose to put in the Amsoil as I read lots of people having great luck with it. I got it bought for $12.31/quart. When I got the bottles of Amsoil it says on the bottle that it is a direct replacement for GM #12346190.

That's good enough for me. Only time will tell. I may buy some more and run it iny np205 t-case.

By the way.....I didn't mean to hi Jack Dirty Larry's thread. If anyone has any questions for me please PM me and not post here. I want this thread to remain Larry's and his badass Polar Bear Suburban.

[Chevy3+3]

Sorry in my above post I said didn't help with noise. I corrected it now saying changing the fluid and overfilling DID help with smoother shifting and help make it quieter

[jkiersh2]

I have just started down the L18 road. What I am doing is a little different than the folks on this forum are doing but this looks like the best place to ask the questions.
My tow vehicle is a 1999 GMC PU with the 6.0L and broken exhaust manifold studs.
I just picked up a 8.1 that I just pulled out of a 3/4 ton van. What the motor has is all of the accessory hardware that is desirable if this was going into an older truck. So the question is do keep this configuration or convert to the correct setup my truck was optioned for. I am inclined to convert and possibly trade my brackets for the more common versions.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by jkiersh2

I have just started down the L18 road. What I am doing is a little different than the folks on this forum are doing but this looks like the best place to ask the questions.
My tow vehicle is a 1999 GMC PU with the 6.0L and broken exhaust manifold studs.
I just picked up a 8.1 that I just pulled out of a 3/4 ton van. What the motor has is all of the accessory hardware that is desirable if this was going into an older truck. So the question is do keep this configuration or convert to the correct setup my truck was optioned for. I am inclined to convert and possibly trade my brackets for the more common versions.

Welcome to the forums!

On a GMT800 you could use either brackets but if you plan to use OEM A/C lines you would be better off using the GMT800 brackets (low mount A/C compressor). You shouldn’t have any problem finding someone to trade brackets with you as the van/medium duty brackets are the most desirable for swappers. If you haven’t already joined the group, there is a nice group on Facebook called the “8.1L Info Swap Classifieds”. Lots of guys there always looking for brackets and Ed over there has done a couple L18’s in GMT800 trucks.

Also, if you have already found it…. I put together a complete thread on all things 8.1L HERE

Good luck with you project..

[silverbear]

Larry, I was directed to your build while searching for answers in Crocky125 thread about parking brakes. Looking at your pics of the 9.5" semi-float rear you had in the Suburban, the parking brake cable for the passenger side enters the backing plate on the rear side of the axle tube. On the 14FF you installed, the passenger side cable enters the backing on the front side of the baking plate. My questions are: 1. Was the cable for the semi-float original to your Burb? 2.Did you use the same cable on the Full float as was on the semi-float?

I swapped in a 1999 14FF with 13"slip on drums into my 1986 K10 and I am having a little trouble with the parking brake hanging up on my passenger side. Not sure yet if it my cable routing, the way a connected it to my system of if it is the cable I purchased to use. Just looking for resources and/or options.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by silverbear

Larry, I was directed to your build while searching for answers in Crocky125 thread about parking brakes. Looking at your pics of the 9.5" semi-float rear you had in the Suburban, the parking brake cable for the passenger side enters the backing plate on the rear side of the axle tube. On the 14FF you installed, the passenger side cable enters the backing on the front side of the baking plate. My questions are: 1. Was the cable for the semi-float original to your Burb? 2.Did you use the same cable on the Full float as was on the semi-float?

I swapped in a 1999 14FF with 13"slip on drums into my 1986 K10 and I am having a little trouble with the parking brake hanging up on my passenger side. Not sure yet if it my cable routing, the way a connected it to my system of if it is the cable I purchased to use. Just looking for resources and/or options.

You’re right, on the original semi floater the brake cable enters the backing plate from the rear on the pass side and front on the driver’s side (the backing plates are symmetrical where they are the same part number for both sides). On the 10.5” 14FF with the 84 and later push in type cable, the cable enters the backing plate on the front on both sides.

The 99 axle could have entirely different backing plates being it is from a newer body style than what I have but if it helps, below are the Napa park brake cable part numbers I used on the Polar Bear. If I recall correctly, I used an 89 R2500 (2wd) w/7.4L as the application as those came factory with 10.5” 14FF’s and was a direct plug and play for my Burb. Might not be the case on your truck with a later body style axle. You could look at other 1 ton trucks and van's with 14FF and look at their dimensions to see if they would fit your K10 better than the part numbers below. There are few different lengths of cables out there for the 84 and later 14FF's.

93253 Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear, 55.5; Rear Left
93254 Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear, 77.81; Rear Right

You can barely see here where the passenger’s side cable crosses the axle and is tied to the top pinion bolt with a p-clamp. That is the way the 2wd Suburban’s with full floaters were routed….at least the one I saw at the boneyard anyway.

[DirtyLarry]

Geez, looking through this thread it looks as though I haven't updated it in a very long time. Here is a link to the 2016 Desert Trip trip report that the Polar Bear and K10 took in June 2016. Link HERE to the trip report.

And a few recent out and about pics. We took the ole Polar Bear on a family camping weekend to a lake about 3 hours away a couple weeks after returning from the Desert. Fun times.

[mongocanfly]

Man I like that big mud tire stock wheel hubcap setup..that's sweet

[NastyBuzzard]

What do you have going on with the mirrors? They look interesting.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

What do you have going on with the mirrors? They look interesting.

Just cheap clip on mirror extensions. They suck and don't fit worth the hoot

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

Just cheap clip on mirror extensions. They suck and don't fit worth the hoot

Are you familiar with the tow mirrors that exist in the style of the stainless mirrors? They have a lock ring with set screw at the mirror head that you loosen, extend mirror, and tighten up?

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Are you familiar with the tow mirrors that exist in the style of the stainless mirrors? They have a lock ring with set screw at the mirror head that you loosen, extend mirror, and tighten up?

Hmmm, not sure. I may have saw them while searching for something when I ended up with these. Link? Pic?

[MalibuSSwagon]

I too have questions Larry. haha. A friend and I are interested in installing the stepntow bumpers on our Suburbans. You mentioned earlier in the thread you had to fab up brackets, any details on those?

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

Hmmm, not sure. I may have saw them while searching for something when I ended up with these. Link? Pic?

On a GMT-400 with some comparison to 2006+ mirrors.

[83GMCK2500]

More pics of a NOS set...part number shown. Good luck. Those are a friend of mine's pics, he was shopping for the GMT-400 set (pictured above) and ended up with square body ones. Sold them long ago. For reference the GMT-400 set is P/N 95155.

The heads on them were stainless as well, like original.

THESE: http://bumpersuperstore.com/i-114088...ng-mirror.html are the only ones I see yet for sale by the part number. I'm half tempted to believe they're using a stock photo of the slip on garbage ones. Their title/description says slide-out door mount, not slip-on poop.

[DirtyLarry]

That is interesting! Bummer too as I just bought new mirrors for the Burb not long ago. Snagged one backing out of the garage and busted it to smithereens. Looks like another 7 years of bad luck coming my way

[83GMCK2500]

I had the passenger side mirror pane fall out of the housing of my '83 as I was driving down the highway. Caught a glint out of the corner of my eye then sparkly things in the rearview, started looking around wondering what in the world just happened.

Larry, if you get a minute I would appreciate your 8.1 input: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=721338