Blood Sweat and Tears.. 67 Build Thread

[kehstr]

I've heard using the crimper piece can introduce rust with the 2 layers overlapping, just keep that in mind, and watch out

[88Stanger]

love the hood! great job overall!!

[Possmguts]

I bought an aluminum dash gauge bezel that has two 4 1/4" and two 3 1/4" holes because I liked the look... Why cant I find gauges in those sizes?? I really like the AutoMeter American Muscle sets but the only ones they have are the
3 3/8" and 2 1/16" and 5" No combos in anything smaller than the 5"

Looking for combo gauges for the smaller holes... suggestions please...

[Advanced Design]

Possm, check out Metalmeet for learning metal shaping. I've picked up a few things from the group over the years.

Would the company selling the dash bezel have a recommendation for gauges?

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Possm, check out Metalmeet for learning metal shaping. I've picked up a few things from the group over the years.

Would the company selling the dash bezel have a recommendation for gauges?

I'll check it out, as for the bezel, it was an ebay thing I doubt they can help but I'll send them a message and see. Thanks

[Possmguts]

Since my space is limited, I'm doing as much as I can to the bed sides before I pull it apart... Now that the 42 layers of different colors and bondo is all off Im rather surprised to see how good the overall shape is... no rust at all... Imagine that. I think the hardest part is going to be getting the areas around the tail lights worked out. May end up replacing the lower rear of the drivers side since its so deformed...

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Since my space is limited, I'm doing as much as I can to the bed sides before I pull it apart... Now that the 42 layers of different colors and bondo is all off Im rather surprised to see how good the overall shape is... no rust at all... Imagine that. I think the hardest part is going to be getting the areas around the tail lights worked out. May end up replacing the lower rear of the drivers side since its so deformed...

Looks like someone did some urban 4x4'n lots of dings and dents, but good sound metal.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Looks like someone did some urban 4x4'n lots of dings and dents, but good sound metal.

Yep.. gonna have to glaze the whole damn thing

[flashed]

It's amazing how much bondo people can form to resemble a truck ,been there and done that .

[lower50's]

Almost looks new.

[Possmguts]

Too many other things going on to get anything done on this thing right now... Very much considering handing it over to the paint and body police... hate to see it every time I walk out into the garage looking the same as the last time I walked out there....

[RRR18]

Ya it's damn hard to get all this stuff done and enjoy the good weather when it's finally here.

[swamp rat]

I would concider it too but I need to get my house payed off first. Hang in there!

[Possmguts]

Well.. there goes any truck parts for a while... busted the crank in the old one and it was worn out anyway... so... I guess the truck gets put on the back shelf for a while... again... (sigh)...

[jlsanborn]

I feel for you. Story of my life.

[RRR18]

[swamp rat]

That ain't nuttin, wait till you get old and bust your crank! LOL!!

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

That ain't nuttin, wait till you get old and bust your crank! LOL!!

tOO Late.. Ive already busted a few cranks lol

Originally Posted by roushinator

What swaybar is that?

Thats a "No Limit Engineering" Above frame sway bar...

[Possmguts]

Managed to get all the holes that have been drilled in the bed side to pull dents and hold tons of bondo in welded up and ground down... BUT I stressed the metal in the biggest flat spot just behind the cab and its tin canning now... I guess I have to study up how to fix that before moving on. Has any of you guys used the cold compressed air and heat gun method to de-stress metal before?

Started "Trying" to disassemble the bed as well and found I need a second person to push down on the castle bolts to keep them from spinning...

I'm going to HAVE to find some good tail sections with the tail light sections for these bed sides if I'm going to save them... Any ideas where to find those?

I swear I'm at a point where I just want to hand it over to someone to finish up on the body...

[GR8-68]

I love your project build !! Nothing like a truck that is built on blood sweat and tears

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Managed to get all the holes that have been drilled in the bed side to pull dents and hold tons of bondo in welded up and ground down... BUT I stressed the metal in the biggest flat spot just behind the cab and its tin canning now... I guess I have to study up how to fix that before moving on. Has any of you guys used the cold compressed air and heat gun method to de-stress metal before?

Started "Trying" to disassemble the bed as well and found I need a second person to push down on the castle bolts to keep them from spinning...

I'm going to HAVE to find some good tail sections with the tail light sections for these bed sides if I'm going to save them... Any ideas where to find those?

I swear I'm at a point where I just want to hand it over to someone to finish up on the body...

Oil canning sheet metal can be a pain, hammer and dolly to stretch it to keep it out and torch to red to shrink to hold it in. Do some research on heat shrinking with a torch before you try on the body. Heat gun is not hot enough to shrink. That process works on hail dents. The bungee hooked on the bars held the carriage bolts then cut them off with cut off wheel.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Oil canning sheet metal can be a pain, hammer and dolly to stretch it to keep it out and torch to red to shrink to hold it in. Do some research on heat shrinking with a torch before you try on the body. Heat gun is not hot enough to shrink. That process works on hail dents. The bungee hooked on the bars held the carriage bolts then cut them off with cut off wheel.

I suppose I wont be re-using any of the bolts so.. cutting them it will be... I have a steel floor and will be doing a wood one with a new bed front. The heat shrinking sound a bit scary but Ill look up some vids and give it a shot...
Thanks Metaldoc, I appreciate that. Any advice on those rear corners?

[roushinator]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

tOO Late.. Ive already busted a few cranks lol



Thats a "No Limit Engineering" Above frame sway bar...

Thanks. Do you have a picture of how it connects to the trailing arms? Thanks.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by roushinator

Thanks. Do you have a picture of how it connects to the trailing arms? Thanks.

There are plates under the axle it and the shocks attach to... I dont have a pic of that area. Ill try to remember to get one for you. Here is a link to the panhard bar kit that includes the plates... http://nolimitengineering.com/produc...32&id=26244500

[Bubba4spd]

I just started catching up on your restore post here. Auburn is where I went to college so I'm a little attached to your truck already. You really have invested a lot of hard work, you sure haven't taken the easy route, every step has been hand to hand combat...very proud of you for hanging in there. I purchased my truck in a small town just north of Auburn but yours was in much better condition! I'd be happy just to get mine back to the shape yours was in before you started!