47-55.1 Project "Bickle" 1948 1/2 ton 4.3 4l60e

[youngrodder]

Looks great. I agree on dropping it more. They can never be to low..ha ha

Marc

[28TudorAZ]

Looking great!!!! Like the pictures....ha ha...You should do some sort of bumble bee/hornet logo on the side with that color scheme.

[joedoh]

jim greg marc, thanks! I have springs and blocks if someone buying wants it lower. for now I will enjoy the zq8 ride.

28AZ its funny, I grew up in pittsburgh PA and went to school at WSU, both teams are black and gold (yellow really) and it didnt even occur to me untiil someone mentioned it.

glass in, windshield was a snap, steele rubber, done before my wife, who I asked to help, even walked outside.



back window a little more work, but lock strip went in easier than any I have done.



"simple pink" (ATF and acetone in a simple green bottle haha) freed up all the mechanisms like new and let me get to the window frame screws.



viola!



I even bought new cabinet screws for the window frame and didnt need them, the atfcetone soaked in an made them come right out. the other side was tougher, had to drill out the frame screws

with the brakes bled and everything hooked up I was able to back it in under its own power for the first time.




tomorrow gauges and dash and taillights, maybe headliner.

[youngrodder]

Looks good..I like those interior door handles...What are they off? I need order up my front and rear door window seals from Steele. Man they are not cheap..

Looking good

Marc

[Tempest67]

Nice work Russ.

When I did my windshield, I put a sealant between the rubber and the steel window frame (outside).

Do you put sealant between the glass and the rubber (outside) as well? or is that not needed?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Nice work Russ.

When I did my windshield, I put a sealant between the rubber and the steel window frame (outside).

Do you put sealant between the glass and the rubber (outside) as well? or is that not needed?

the only time I ever needed sealant was on a cheaper gasket that had a little wrinkle at the bottom corners, a little sealant in between the glass and gasket was needed there because when it rained I got a line of drips from there.

otherwise dry!

[Tempest67]

OK Thanks, that is what I thought

as long as the rubber gasket has no holes, where is the water going to go??


Thanks again

[8man]

The truck came along very quickly. Your work is keeping me inspired.

[twinshadows]

Hi Russ . . .

you've been busy . . . .
Go back to 'Post # 243' - - (last picture) - - I'm seeing things 'hanging - out on that
back wall " . . . . . looking good , and the truck too .

Then, that picture - in front of the A-frame - in - the - driveway . . . .
man, I really like that shot . . . . very cool truck you have going .
Also, like both the 'stance & Wheels' , cool for sure .
You make this ( all of your builds ), very easy to follow / look at / and
enjoy very much . . . . . . . not to mention , great learning tools , for
the rest of us ( or "want-to-be" - me ) .

hanging around for THE Test drive ; vroom , vroom .

thanks , jim

[joedoh]

thanks robert and jim.

jim, thats my wall of shame, 6 design iterations for the pedal bracket and my first set of mounts cut with the wrong bushing size. I like to stare at my shortcomings, keeps my hubris in check.

I have gotten a lot done, but I am tired, I will update later.

[joedoh]

ok, so I missed my deadline but like a spoiled brat I have MANY EXCUSES.

the first is the title work on the new place popped into place and we got a 24hr notice of closing.




next, I was tired of fiddling with the drivers door, the fit was AWFUL, it kept grabbing the front edge of the door and it was in the jamb really crooked. I guess if someone banged me around for 20-30 years I wouldnt fit really well either. I suspected my repaired upper hinge was part of the problem so I visited the shop and stole a hinge off the next truck "BAM"



and found a door in the pile that looked ok



with those parts it fit and shut better than a weeks worth of fiddling with the other door.



but it didnt match really well so I scritched and scratched and used some young rodder tips and some new tips I will share later and made it look pretty close. even the red dot!



I need to switch over the glass and new felts, good thing I didnt glue em in!


more in the next post

[joedoh]

with that done I started on the other finish work I had been neglecting for literally 4 days.

wipers in!



drilled out the overhead light for one of the marker light bulbs I cut off the harness, waste not want not!



all I had was the amber bulb but I dunno, I think I will leave it, I bet with the gold interior it will look great.



with the bulb in I needed the door pin, I used 8man roberts location and it worked grrrrrrrrrreat. notice all the dirt on the running board from literally beating the stuffing out of the crappy door for a week.



and with the lights wired it was time for the headliner.




I am circling the field, just odds and ends left! well and the seat, he is being slow for some reason.

[OutlawDrifter]

Russ, it's looking really good! You're in the short rows now.

Also reminded me I need to get my dome light going...

[NorCalGal]

I love it, just go out back grab another door and give it a try. Bawda bing...Bawda boom!

[youngrodder]

The color match/distress looks good. I have converted my dome lights to LED. I can take some pics. It cheap and easy. I did it on my last build and followed suit on Family Truckster. They are bright white tho not amber.

Marc

[oldman3]

Russ, nice job on the door, looks great with the rest of cab...Jim

[8man]

Congrats on the new place. Good idea on the dome light. I was wondering what had been done.

[joedoh]

thanks guys (and gal), I sure have been milking this one. want it right though.


put in the dolphin gauges, I used the factory speedo pulse wire, its goo a nice setup where you drive a mile to calibrate. if only!

first I had to battle the oil pressure sender. the factory location is under the distributor and I saw no reason to go somewhere else, but there are fuel lines and the distributor to avoid. I found the sender port slightly loose! that was my oil leak I couldnt find on the drivers side head, the valve cover gasket was ok.

this was fun on a bun to get down there, basically lay across the top of the engine compartment legs all akimbo sticking out the front, reaching straight down. miserable. next time I plan gauges with the cab OFF.



but while I was in there messing around I thought I would go ahead and break the evap purge solenoid, you know, for funsies.




$40 later (17 on rock auto but who has time to wait?) it started and ran, everything reads correctly



the fuel gauge is actually right, its almost out of gas, remember I got it slap empty and so I need to put more than a gallon or two in it. I used an interface box to match the ohms of the stock sender to what the dolphin set was looking for and it worked great. the coolant sender is in the heater core inlet line, to get a pure reading that way (on the outlet it would be cooler).

I cut the lens of the stock gauges to fit the dash better and I think they will fit above the brake pedal bracket, at least that is where I have the wiring run, hope I dont need to move it.

still considering dropping the front a couple inches. if I get the interior buttoned up and the seat isnt done yet, I might.

[twinshadows]

So, here's my dumb question ?

Wamego - con2r gauges , and looked really good ; but mounted from the backside . I did think they ' lit - up good ' . . . .

Bickle - dolphin gauges , they look very cool and I can see the dash lights in u'r picture .

Then, I like either set - - -
con2r = 140 mph speedo ; dolphin = 120 mph speedo . . . ugh
plus - the con2r , looked to have a 'Tach' included'
I know it's early , but , any 'feedback' , so far as mounting / or /
wiring. ? compare =
Both sets Look really good mounted in the stock dash .

Way back when - - - - for my IH stock 6-volt gauges ; I just swapped
over to the IH - Scout gauges (in the older days = 1976) , and kelp
driving ; they filled the dash holes and worked for me .

. . . looking good , jim

[joedoh]

con2rs look amazing, i love how they dont need an adapter ring like most other aftermarkets do. (even the dakota digital with the quad gauge has the adapter ring built in, why? the VHX dont) but they are 1200 smackers with shipping, and still require all the rewiring, and dont come with any senders. really pretty, but like other really pretty things, really expensive. they didnt really raise the asking/selling price on that truck either.

the dolphins are about $400 all in with the ohm changer. come with senders. no tach and use adapter rings. was a last minute choice for me, so I didnt get sidetracked building the gauges like on a couple other trucks. cheap, but there, better than on kechi with nothing.

The dakota digital can use the OBDII port, which I like too, except the oil pressure still needs a new sender. pricer than even the con2rs with the obdii box, but has a PRNDL (if you have a late model obdII)

I will use them all, eventually, for me its about finding the most efficient way. even the dolphins work exactly as intended and look good in the dash, that goes a long way especially with a 1/3rd asking price. getting good at wiring these different systems. one last thing about the con2r, the tach side did not fit the dash without shortening the cap to clear the wiper motor. I called to tell them it didnt fit and they said quote "yes it does". I ended up shortening the back cap by two inches before it would fit. no it didnt.

[VoyagerXll]

I have enjoyed reading and learning from your projects that deal with S10 and AD Chevy frame swaps. I too am working on a frame swap, but not a Chevy. My project is a 1950 4X4 Willys truck going on a 2000 extended. The bad part of this story is that the S10 engine and transmission are very tired. Slipping tranny and engine guzzling oil.
I have a 1994 4X4 K1500 whose body is nearly rusted off. The engine and the transmission were replaced 8 years ago. The engine and transmission now have less than 40,000 miles. My question for you is. Will the engine mounts from the 2000 4.3 work on the 1994 4.3? I assume they will, but there are times when knowledge is better than assumptions. The 1994 is used very little so I am hoping that this is a doable swap. I plan on using the 1994 electronics

Keep up the good work, I look forward to each new page you post.

Stan from Nebraska

[28TudorAZ]

Looking great. Love the headliner. You honestly cannot go wrong with that. You cant beat the gauges for the price.

[joedoh]

thanks tudor!

Originally Posted by VoyagerXll

I have enjoyed reading and learning from your projects that deal with S10 and AD Chevy frame swaps. I too am working on a frame swap, but not a Chevy. My project is a 1950 4X4 Willys truck going on a 2000 extended. The bad part of this story is that the S10 engine and transmission are very tired. Slipping tranny and engine guzzling oil.
I have a 1994 4X4 K1500 whose body is nearly rusted off. The engine and the transmission were replaced 8 years ago. The engine and transmission now have less than 40,000 miles. My question for you is. Will the engine mounts from the 2000 4.3 work on the 1994 4.3? I assume they will, but there are times when knowledge is better than assumptions. The 1994 is used very little so I am hoping that this is a doable swap. I plan on using the 1994 electronics

Keep up the good work, I look forward to each new page you post.

Stan from Nebraska

they will work, but 2000 mounts are clamshells and I have a bit of a runniing joke with jim about how all the clamshells I take off are already broken.

the std anchor (brand) mounts for 60s/70s v8 cars work fine on the 4.3, bolt right up, cost about 10 bucks each local and half that ordered in, but you will need new frame side mounts. I just say 70 chevelle with a v8 and they get the right ones.

I havent done a willys but I will bet you will need to move the motor back about 8-10 inches so you will need new frame side mounts anyway. I bolt up a jig with 1/2" black pipe (7/16 bolt fits in it) set 16.25" apart, hang it in the right spot and then build/weld the legs on, the motor will bolt right up.

thanks for the kind words! good luck! nebraska isnt that far, in fact I got the fenders for this truck from a nice guy in nebraska!

[VoyagerXll]

Thanks for the information. However I do not think the mounts I have are clam shell. Rather that take away from your build thread, I will, if it is ok, send a message via this site? I guess my main concern is if the mounting holes in the block the same for all 4.3 S10.
Thanks
stan from northeast NE

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by VoyagerXll

Thanks for the information. However I do not think the mounts I have are clam shell. Rather that take away from your build thread, I will, if it is ok, send a message via this site? I guess my main concern is if the mounting holes in the block the same for all 4.3 S10.
Thanks
stan from northeast NE

yep thats fine, and posting here is fine too! all 4.3 (and really all sbc with a 3 bolt side mount) use the exact same mounting pattern. you cant use the clamshell heat shield, it has to be removed to use another type of mount.

this is what a clamshell looks like, used on 95.5 to 2003 s10






they use a steel bracket on the frame that doesnt match up to any other type of mount. they are always broken when I take a truck apart, that last picture is the ONE in 8 trucks that was not broken.

if I can help, let me know