Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Kim57

That kinda sucks on the wheel placement.
If it were me I would get the bed where it looks good in relation to the cab and probably just cut and lengthen the frame. Seems like the easiest fix.
Kim

Kim: In light of the fact that I need sheet metal/body work practice if I ever want to catch up with you, I have decided to place the bed roughly the stock position and cut out the wheel openings and move them forward. Took some black tape and blacked out the area on the body in front of the tire to simulate this. Looks decent. Basically mimicking the space in front of the front tire. Also decided the rake/stance is ok. If, when finished, it looks too aggressive, I can cut the rear springs or replace with lowering springs. Bed depth loss looks like it will be around 6" which still leaves me plenty of room to haul stuff.

Next move is to properly hang all the sheet metal from front to back then finalize the bed mounting. Got kind of focused on making it run and did not really hang all the sheet metal very accurately.

[ricott]

Your truck looks real good with the bed on it, and I think your wait and see approach to the rake issue is a good one. One possible easy thing to try (for a visual) would be to get another trailblazer spare and put the two spares on the front to see how the rake looks. Another possibility is using the BellTech 2 or 3 inch drop springs for the trailblazer rear (and they are not that pricy). As to the wheel opening, I would vote for the "one step back" and lengthen the frame. While I enjoy sheet metal work and definitely could go for that idea, I think the proportions of the bed when finished will leave you disappointed.

No matter what, YOUR TRUCK ROCKS! Thanks again for posting all your hard work. I am dying to get back on mine - the GTO just has to leave.

Ricky

PS - I want that crossover pipe. I will touch base to work out the details.

[Kim57]

I agree with Ricky on the stance and outcome of moving the wheel opening on the bed.
The proportions may look a little odd and then your going to be stuck with it.
Maybe you can post a side pic in the photo shop section and ask one of the guys to show you what it may look like.
Kim

[dug224]

Ricky & Kim: Man, just when I thought it was safe to go back in the garage I get this. Deep down inside I know the frame extension is the right thing to do and I agree and troubled by the potential future disappoint scenario. Will continue to cogitate on the matter and I am officially back on the fence with regard to direction. Regardless, I need to properly setup the sheet metal so I can properly determine frame stretch length. I really do appreaciate the input.

Ricky: If I decide to stretch it, I will give you a call and talk with you before I dive in. I secured the deal on the crossover pipe...it is yours. I will be heading out Monday after the salvage auction to talk with the guy who will be pulling it apart.

My buddy Gordon came over in his nice '70's (I believe '78) sleeper truck to weigh in on the bed decision. He agrees with Ricky and Kim so I am officially out numbered. Need to scan and post my old fleet from back in the day. Had a '73, '74 and '77 back in the '70's.

Dug

[dug224]

Dug up the old photos. The '73 was my first real vehicle. Technically, the first one was a 4 door 1974 Dodge Dart. Pretty low on the cool factor but was better than walking...barely. The '74 4WD GMC we bought wrecked and put it back together and the '77 was bought new when I graduated from High School. Note the wheel/tire combo, Dodge Charger gas cap, chrome front bumper and spoiler. Ultimately put some rotating buckets in it out of a Monte Carlo. High dollar mods at the time. Time flies...dug

[79azc10]

I think it would be unique and different if your were to shorten the bed to fit the frame and center the wheels in the arches. People would step back and state wondering was is different about it.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by 79azc10

I think it would be unique and different if your were to shorten the bed to fit the frame and center the wheels in the arches. People would step back and state wondering was is different about it.

In other words modify the rear overhang as well? Yet another idea add to the mix. I already think the rear stock overhang is a bit much. My idea would have made it worse. The good news is that the rear pieces that cap the end of the bed are a bit loose from all the 4WD the original owners had and would be easily removed. May be challenged by the tip of the bullet on the side of the bed. It is almost to the leading edge of the bed. Maybe a combo of shorting the rear overhang and moving the wheel opening slightly. Hmmmmm. I will take a look at this in the morning. Thanks for the input. Dug

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, my 2 cents on the bed issue, I would take a section out of the bed sides right in front of the wheel opening. If the spear has no taper at that point lining it up should be easy. If your only talking about 1 or 2 inches I don't think it will be noticed. If you add to the frame you have to add to the brake lines, wiring, fuel lines, drive shaft and exhaust. That will end taking a ton of time and a bit of cash. Cutting and moving the opening forward will also work, but the area behind the opening will become longer by the same amount and that method will require more welding and additional angles to match up. You will also need to keep an eye on the inner fenders (tubs). Either way the truck is coming along nicely. I think using the late model chassis will show it's value in the years to come.
Rob

[ricott]

If you ultimately decided to shorten the Bed in the front, I would take a like amount out of the "overhang" to retain its proportionality. Search for "T-Man's 58 Apache project" They took a long wheelbase fleetside and cut the bed down. The bed cut starts at about post 208. I will call you next week to discuss the crossover pipe.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

If you ultimately decided to shorten the Bed in the front, I would take a like amount out of the "overhang" to retain its proportionality. Search for "T-Man's 58 Apache project" They took a long wheelbase fleetside and cut the bed down. The bed cut starts at about post 208. I will call you next week to discuss the crossover pipe.

Did a review of "T-Man's 58 Apache project". Great suggestion. Looks like he centered rear wheels between the front and back curves along the top of the wheel opening. Looks good to my eye. See posts 240 and 383. Also found where he cleaned up the leading edge of the bed (posts 229 – 230). Headed down to the garage to level and square the sheet metal overall so I can work my way back to the bed. Thanks. Dug

[47 Fasttoys]

Hay Dug, played a little on paint, 2" off the front section.
Rob

[ChuckDriver]

Well, I'll jump in too. I think you should place the bed in the correct location in relation to the cab, and stretch to frame to center the wheel. But that's just my opinion, its your truck after all. Either way you've done a great job, love the way it looks so far!

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Well, I'll jump in too. I think you should place the bed in the correct location in relation to the cab, and stretch to frame to center the wheel. But that's just my opinion, its your truck after all. Either way you've done a great job, love the way it looks so far!

Thanks for jumping in and for the compliment. This is a tough one for me and I agree with you....but, getting it on the road and not doing things over is also tugging on me. Stay tuned. Dug

[dug224]

Originally Posted by 47 Fasttoys

OK, my 2 cents on the bed issue, I would take a section out of the bed sides right in front of the wheel opening. If the spear has no taper at that point lining it up should be easy. If your only talking about 1 or 2 inches I don't think it will be noticed. If you add to the frame you have to add to the brake lines, wiring, fuel lines, drive shaft and exhaust. That will end taking a ton of time and a bit of cash. Cutting and moving the opening forward will also work, but the area behind the opening will become longer by the same amount and that method will require more welding and additional angles to match up. You will also need to keep an eye on the inner fenders (tubs). Either way the truck is coming along nicely. I think using the late model chassis will show it's value in the years to come.
Rob

Rob: Should be about 2 inches that the wheel opening needs to move forward. Stretching the frame includes all those things you mentioned that are mostly complete and I really don't want to fool with them....but will if I have to. If I alter the beds sides, I will pick areas that have simple shapes that I can actually the patch panels for. Tomorrow, I will go old school and print a picture of the truck and manually move the opening forward and then slice out a portion behind the wheel opening to see how it looks. I don't have photo shop on this machine. I agree the value is yet to come mostly in the fact that I can drive it much like a new car. Thanks for joining in. Dug

[Kim57]

To me it looks like the wheel needs to go back a little more in the opening.
When you lower the bed down there is going to be a much larger gap behind the wheel/tire than whats in front of it from a visual perspective.
Kim

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Kim57

To me it looks like the wheel needs to go back a little more in the opening.
When you lower the bed down there is going to be a much larger gap behind the wheel/tire than whats in front of it from a visual perspective.
Kim

Kim: Will take this into consideration when Jim comes over and we do more precise measuring and bed loading. Just to get the front gap similar to the front gap on the front tire, I will need to move the wheel back at least a little bit more so, we are headed that way.

Just got some input from my friend Kevin down in Florida. He is a Jeep Wrangler guy. He suggested I look at extending the trailing arms which includes drive-shaft and possibly brake lines. Hmmmmm. Will put in on the list for consideration.

[dsraven]

hey dug, before you go for it with the trailing arms check to see if your upper spring mounts will line up close enough. if it is just an inch maybe you will be lucky, too much and the coil springs won't line up. may cause binding or squeaks etc later on. also check to see if the rubber jounce stop will be ok, maybe have to move that as well. if you just extend the lowers it will put the pinion angle out of whack.
haven't done anything on my old truck since feb. maybe gonna dust it off this weekend. gotta fab a cab extension for the pass side.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hey dug, before you go for it with the trailing arms check to see if your upper spring mounts will line up close enough. if it is just an inch maybe you will be lucky, too much and the coil springs won't line up. may cause binding or squeaks etc later on. also check to see if the rubber jounce stop will be ok, maybe have to move that as well. if you just extend the lowers it will put the pinion angle out of whack.
haven't done anything on my old truck since feb. maybe gonna dust it off this weekend. gotta fab a cab extension for the pass side.

All good points. Took a look at it and it appears to be a legit thing to do, however, I am not bold enough to take it on. Kind of looking forward to the bed shortening exercise. Finally unboxed my new hood hinges yesterday and installed them in my attempt to line up all the sheet metal (front to back). Can't seem to get the driver side to properly seat into place after putting substantial spacers behind both hinge faces. This is my challenge today.

Bro-in-law Bruce sent me a period correct California black on yellow license plate the other day so the truck can enjoy a bit of its' heritage. Tossed in a handful of vintage Hot August Nights (Reno) medallions as well.

Also, included a picture of the dead Trailblazer SS with 6.0 LS that will be donating its' drive train to someone's new project.

[ricott]

That TB was the recipient of a serious T-Bone! I'm sure you thought about it, but why don't you get the fuel lines from the TB SS for your truck. It would save a lot of time.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

That TB was the recipient of a serious T-Bone! I'm sure you thought about it, but why don't you get the fuel lines from the TB SS for your truck. It would save a lot of time.

Man, good thing one of us is thinking. This is now on the TB SS "To Do" list. Thanks. dug

[Kim57]

I'm sure what ever you do will turn out to be real nice on the bed.
Are you sure that TB/SS is only a 6.0.
I got my LS out of an 07 TB/SS and it's a 6.2.
Kim

[ricott]

I posted this on another build, but thought you may be interested in side mirrors. I have been looking at mirrors for the last several weeks to find an electric set that would look good on the truck - after stretching my body to adjust the mirrors on the GTO, the truck's had to be electric. I have seen Honda and Lexus models that have mirrors that appear to work (bolted to the door skin from below), then I saw tbrown5079 - "56 Cameo Build" build with some side Mirrors from a 944 Porsche. See his post 94 and 103. The installation sure looks slick. The 944 mirrors can be had for about $150.00. I also looked at an article about installing Porsche Teardrop mirrors from a Porsche 968 on a Porsche 944 - looks to be a direct swap between those two models, thus the 968 mirrors would work on your truck. Of course the 968 Mirrors are app $500.00 a pair! I'll try and help you spend your money - because you are a lot closer to needing side mirrors than me!!!

Ricky

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

I posted this on another build, but thought you may be interested in side mirrors. I have been looking at mirrors for the last several weeks to find an electric set that would look good on the truck - after stretching my body to adjust the mirrors on the GTO, the truck's had to be electric. I have seen Honda and Lexus models that have mirrors that appear to work (bolted to the door skin from below), then I saw tbrown5079 - "56 Cameo Build" build with some side Mirrors from a 944 Porsche. See his post 94 and 103. The installation sure looks slick. The 944 mirrors can be had for about $150.00. I also looked at an article about installing Porsche Teardrop mirrors from a Porsche 968 on a Porsche 944 - looks to be a direct swap between those two models, thus the 968 mirrors would work on your truck. Of course the 968 Mirrors are app $500.00 a pair! I'll try and help you spend your money - because you are a lot closer to needing side mirrors than me!!!

Ricky

Who needs mirrors...i am only looking forward anyway.

[dug224]

Took the front clip back off and leveled up the frame and started over. Turns out I had the small "L" bracket flipped where the inner fender is mounted to the cab. Threw everything off a bit.

Work included installing the hood which we tried to make hard. After deciding it fit satisfactorily, I proceeded to install the hood latch only to find that the little tab that holds the coil spring had broken off and was replaced by a nut and bolt....which interfered with the operation of the latch. After 45 minutes figuring this out and 5 minutes welding on a new tab, the latch operated like new much to my surprise. Note the penny I used to keep from welding the latch together. The penny is actually where the bolt head was that interfered with the operation.

Discovered the old floor jack spring expansion technique on the internet while trying to decide if my new hood hinges were ok. Latch the spring onto the floor jack and spread it to the desired length. Fill the gaps with shims. Install the spring on hinge and when you close the hood, the shims supposed to fall out. In my case, we had to yank them out. What a time and life saver.

Body gaps are way better than expected. Will tighten all body panel bolts tomorrow and attempt align the bed. Also installed the tailgate to square up the bed.

[dug224]

...a few more shots. Tailgate and hood gaps.