New project! The "Red Herring"

[apache200]

Oneoff not to take away from Jj but while theres talk of pinion angle i set the level on my intake and when it was level the trans was at 4* down. Does this sound right or should i set it at 3* down? Thanks for any help

[JJorgensen52]

From what I've been reading, the 3* is not a hard and fast rule, but came about because it's what the OEMs used for years and when swapping a carb'd motor, you need the carb to be level. Since I'm fuel injected, that no longer applies.

Basically, all that matters is that at ride height, the trans and the pinion are parallel, so that the driveshaft angles are the same at both ends. This allows the u-joints to operate smoothly without binding. Likewise, 0* (having the trans and pinion directly in line) is not good, either, because it tends to induce vibrations. Somewhere between 2* and 4* angle is the happy range for u-joints.

[JJorgensen52]

Axle is sleeved and in the truck, ready to weld on the seats, but in double checking all my angles I noticed a clearance issue on my oil pan ... so looks like tomorrow I'm going to lift the motor up and add some shims under the frame stands and see if that gets me enough clearance ... then I'll re-set the rear and actually weld on the seats.

In other news, got started on making my new rear cross member / bed support / gas tank support. That end of things is working out nicely

[apache200]

Thats JJ

[JJorgensen52]

Many hours of fitting, fiddling and head scratching later...

Sleeved axles:


It's currently in the truck, bolted down, and I *think* it's straight ... going to check one more time tomorrow then get the seats welded on. It goes out tomorrow evening for rebuild.

Most of my monkeying was with the motor mounts:


I have about 7/16" clearance at that tight spot now (started out with about 1/16"), which I am okay with. I added a 3/16" plate under each frame mount to get the motor up a little. That also improved my pinion angles and gave me more clearance on the center link. On the fence about whether I've leave the spacers loose, or weld them to the frame and make it a permanent install. Probably the latter.


This oil pan hangs down a bit more than I'd like ... thinking about swapping to the GM "hotrod" pan, which is the same as a Hummer H3 pan and about 1.5" shallower, but it's $$$ so I might just make up a skidplate instead, I'm not going super low with this truck.

[lower50's]

Looks good. Ya even not going super low you still don't want the pan exposed. I raised my motor 1/2"

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Looks good. Ya even not going super low you still don't want the pan exposed. I raised my motor 1/2"

I think if I took a straight edge down the frame the pan is probably 1" below the K-member. We shall see how everything shapes up as I get closer to ride height.

New parking brake assemblies and backing plates for the rear axle (these are 50% cheaper to buy in parts than assembled from GM, who'd think that??)


Axle seats welded on:



That killed me, because I feel like I'm making no progress when I spend three hours with a tape measure making minute adjustments, but I know I'll be thankful for it later.

Started in on the rear cross member. This is where it will sit, I'm going to make a side plate which fits into the frame full height, and it will bolt through all three faces of the rail:



This way, the rear sill (this is a 51-53 style bed) can sit directly on the cross member. It will also be the rear mounting point for my S10 Blazer gas tank straps, and will serve as the mounting point for my rear bumper as well.

And lastly, checked the clearance on my Camaro manifolds. Right where I wanted it!



I'm taking vacation for the 4th of July to visit some family, so all's going to be quiet on this project for a bit

[oldman3]

Nice update, good clearance on the manifolds...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Good progress. The manifolds look new?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice update, good clearance on the manifolds...Jim

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Good progress. The manifolds look new?

Thanks fellas! Yes, the manifolds are brand new from GM. I'm planning to have them ceramic coated and I figured that a set that was totally clean would be a better choice for long term adhesion. Wasn't much more expensive than Ebay.

[lower50's]

What color ceramic? Ceramic silver looked and worked good on my snowmobile.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

What color ceramic? Ceramic silver looked and worked good on my snowmobile.

Probably the cast iron grey - it's a higher temperature coating that I've had good luck with (and it looks better on a non-dressed up engine!). I'll do them in and out.

[FarmerSid]

2010 Camaro manifolds? That's the set I have and have no wheres the clearance you do.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

2010 Camaro manifolds? That's the set I have and have no wheres the clearance you do.

Sid, yes that's right, but remember my frame is from a '68 C10 / '86 G-body ... I have about 31" between the rails right there, I think the AD only has about 28"?? I'd have to check my old frame.

[FarmerSid]

I forgot that you arn't using the stock frame. My frame is 26" wide at the manifold flanges. Went back and read your whole thread and it got me to thinking of things I need to address. Like the shifter linkage from the column to the tranny.

Couple questions. What steering column are you using? Where did you get your Vette gas pedal from?

Cheers!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Couple questions. What steering column are you using? Where did you get your Vette gas pedal from?

Cheers!

My steering column is out of a '65 Pontiac Bonneville ... pretty much any fullsize GM is similar. In retrospect, a '66+ column without a key would be a better choice, it's proving difficult to find parts/documentation for this one.

I ordered the pedal on ebay, it's GM PN #25835421, applicable to any '05-'13 Corvette ... I paid $72 shipped.

[FarmerSid]

Cool! I'd like a column that has no key on it and tilt. Not paying close to $1000 for one or a cheap off shore one. Been told to look for one out of a late 70's early 80's Chevy van. I want to keep the key on the dash.

How did you determine that the Vette pedal would work electronically? I'm having a hard time figuring out what I need so it will work programming wise.

Have a good one!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Cool! I'd like a column that has no key on it and tilt. Not paying close to $1000 for one or a cheap off shore one. Been told to look for one out of a late 70's early 80's Chevy van. I want to keep the key on the dash.

How did you determine that the Vette pedal would work electronically? I'm having a hard time figuring out what I need so it will work programming wise.

Have a good one!

It looks like it depends on which ECM you have - the gen III motors require an additional throttle control module box (your '06 would have had one) ... so you have to use the pedal that matches. I think the C5 Vette pedal / TAC module works with the truck, but that is a little outside my knowledge.

[JJorgensen52]

Rear end is back. Got the truck back on all fours, working on the rear cross member.

[JJorgensen52]

New driveshaft made up and got it installed tonight.

The second and third photos show the angles.

I'm down about 2* on the motor (and up 2* on the pinion to match) - the shaft is at 8* at my current height, I'm expecting about 7* at ride height. Which puts me at between 5* and 6* of driveline angle - a little more than ideal, but should work just fine.

I'm hoping to actually start making real progress again tomorrow, I feel like I've been in the garage all week and have nothing to show for it but a lot of tape measurings and sketches on my scratch pad.

[Advanced Design]

JJ, did you have the drive shaft made locally? Yep, have been there with just a lot of tape measuring and sketches completed....and there is always the ever popular sit and stare at it thinking for awhile progress too.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

JJ, did you have the drive shaft made locally? Yep, have been there with just a lot of tape measuring and sketches completed....and there is always the ever popular sit and stare at it thinking for awhile progress too.

I did, yes. I was looking at getting a custom shaft online (Denny's Driveshaft and the like) but I happened upon a Fleet Supply/Spicer Driveline place locally, and they made it up for me at about half the price. Couldn't complain!

As far as actual details on the driveshaft, I'm running 3"x.083" DOM steel, with 1350 series joints. It worked out to 54-1/2" long. I'm not running any big power at the moment, but this would be fine for upgrades to about 600whp if I ever felt like going that route.

For angles, a single 1350 is good to operate up to about 20* of driveline angle, though they wear out much faster at high angles - with my 6*, I'm looking at about 70% of maximum life expectancy according to Spicer's data.

I'm not even remotely concerned about critical speed on the driveline since this is a cruiser, but it would fall around 5,800 RPM ... with my gears and tires that's around 140MPH and I doubt this truck will ever see more than 90MPH

[lower50's]

I hear you on the lots of time in the shop and not much to show for it.
Nice looking drive shaft!!!! I just got my drive shaft fit in that I made from 2, now I can get one made.

[JJorgensen52]

Thanks for the words of encouragement!

Spent some time today monkeying with mechanical shift linkages. Right now, I've got Park, Reverse and Neutral ... thinking I may toss the factory linkage in favor of an adjustable one.

Got the rear cross member made up about 75%


Which set me back a bit, though, because when I tried to test fit the S10 Blazer tank, it became apparent I got my wires crossed when I measured before - the tank is about 32.5" wide and there's only 28" between the rails ... sooo back to the drawing board on that one.

Red saw the sun today!

If only for an hour before it started raining

It's a great feeling to have a roller again.

[Advanced Design]

Always a good feeling of accomplishment to get the back on their own feet again...even if just for a while. Looks good out there JJ.