LS engine swap info

[LostMy65]

It might already be in this thread, or another, but I'm trying to find a junkyard shopping list. Trying to see what is the best donor vehicles for harvesting parts.
Also, I'm in no rush and I want to make finding the cheapest parts part of the hobby.
I actually love browsing and picking parts at junkyards.
But because I live out in the country on property, I have the space, so I think the biggest savings would be buying a donor that has the most usable parts. So what is the best donor for the harvesting the most usable parts that'll work for an ls swap into the 63-87 generation trucks?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

It might already be in this thread, or another, but I'm trying to find a junkyard shopping list. Trying to see what is the best donor vehicles for harvesting parts.
Also, I'm in no rush and I want to make finding the cheapest parts part of the hobby.
I actually love browsing and picking parts at junkyards.
But because I live out in the country on property, I have the space, so I think the biggest savings would be buying a donor that has the most usable parts. So what is the best donor for the harvesting the most usable parts that'll work for an ls swap into the 63-87 generation trucks?

I would look for any LS powered GM pickup or Suburban/Tahoe type vehicles. Look for lower mileage, but don't be afraid of a 200k mile complete running vehicle. You can use a ton of items for the swap. One I did I bought a complete running/driving wrecked 2000 GMC Seirra for $800. I used the engine, accessories, PCM, transmission, wire harness, throttle cable, trans cooler lines, radiator, I kept the cruise module to hook up later, and quite a few other small pieces. Once I sold what was left of the truck, I only had $400 in what I kept. I used the engine as is, did the harness work myself, sent the PCM off to the guy at lt1swap.com. Trans was slipping so I had it rebuilt. Looking back, I should have kept the BCM, the headlight switch, the instrument cluster, the fuel lines, and the fuel pump and sending unit. All those parts could be used to make other things work in an old truck.

[GM man]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

It might already be in this thread, or another, but I'm trying to find a junkyard shopping list. Trying to see what is the best donor vehicles for harvesting parts.
Also, I'm in no rush and I want to make finding the cheapest parts part of the hobby.
I actually love browsing and picking parts at junkyards.
But because I live out in the country on property, I have the space, so I think the biggest savings would be buying a donor that has the most usable parts. So what is the best donor for the harvesting the most usable parts that'll work for an ls swap into the 63-87 generation trucks?

Man, if you can get ahold of an entire vehicle, like aggie91 did, you'll be so much better off. But if not the whole vehicle, I recommend trying to get everything (engine, trans, wiring harness, pedal, pcm) off the same vehicle if you can. Also, I personally like the pre AFM models, which is 06 and older, I think.

[LostMy65]

Thanks guys.
Yes, I'll be keeping my eyes out for a full donor.

[Clyde65]

Best option at this time, money and time wise is a 2012 and down to a 2005. 13 and up have VVT and DOD mostly. Also, 2014 and up are LT’s and not an LS. Whole different animal that has different challenges.
DBw swaps are nice because you can set up cruise fairly easy.

Good luck!!

[StingRay]

There is something to consider if you get a whole truck. I'm pulling the 6.0 and trans from an 03 K2500 right now. I spent the whole weekend and still don't have it out. What an SOB to pull everything. They knitted the power train together with all the wiring and plumbing. Everything that runs to one thing is routed through and restrained to 3 other parts of the vehicle. You can't pull the engine and trans together unless you pull the front diff. The exhaust is in the way of everything. You have to pull the intake to get enough clearance to lift the engine and be able to get at the top bell housing bolt. A 2WD would be a bit easier. If I did this again I'd pull the body off first. It would be easier.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by StingRay

There is something to consider if you get a whole truck. I'm pulling the 6.0 and trans from an 03 K2500 right now. I spent the whole weekend and still don't have it out. What an SOB to pull everything. They knitted the power train together with all the wiring and plumbing. Everything that runs to one thing is routed through and restrained to 3 other parts of the vehicle. You can't pull the engine and trans together unless you pull the front diff. The exhaust is in the way of everything. You have to pull the intake to get enough clearance to lift the engine and be able to get at the top bell housing bolt. A 2WD would be a bit easier. If I did this again I'd pull the body off first. It would be easier.

I'll be looking for a 2wd.
Thanks, I wondered how much of a tangled mess it would be.
I did figure I'd remove the body first.

[68c10airstream]

Originally Posted by StingRay

There is something to consider if you get a whole truck. I'm pulling the 6.0 and trans from an 03 K2500 right now. I spent the whole weekend and still don't have it out. What an SOB to pull everything. They knitted the power train together with all the wiring and plumbing. Everything that runs to one thing is routed through and restrained to 3 other parts of the vehicle. You can't pull the engine and trans together unless you pull the front diff. The exhaust is in the way of everything. You have to pull the intake to get enough clearance to lift the engine and be able to get at the top bell housing bolt. A 2WD would be a bit easier. If I did this again I'd pull the body off first. It would be easier.

Next time just jack up the front of the body and block it up with 2x4's if it's a suburban or lift up the cab if it's a truck. 90's dodge dakota's with the v8 were terrible until you jack up the cab. You can actually beat flat rate times.

Another trick i do with s10 blazers with the 4.3/700 r4 was when all of the bell housing bolts and converter bolts are removed and you are ready to pull the motor. remove the trans mount bolts (2 bolts) and pry the trans rearward all the way rearward until the threaded bolt holes in the mount become visible and just thread a bolt in the hole to prevent the trans from drifting forward. Now just lift the motor straight up and off the motor mounts. The flywheel just touches the face of the bell housing as it goes by. This makes a miserable job very easy, no need to move the front diff around, no prying and tugging on anything, just lift and separate (like a good bra)!!

[coreyjhen]

This makes a miserable job very easy, no need to move the front diff around, no prying and tugging on anything, just lift and separate (like a good bra)!!

Spoken like a true Yooper.

[Rich84]

I harvested my 6.0 from an Isuzu NPR..Tilt body forward Remove engine.. And it came with an F-body oil pan and manifolds.

[Wyattdog2]

Does anyone know what exhaust manifolds will fit a s10 with a ls1 motor?

[tlorber]

I bought my headers from Classic Performance Products in Placentia, CA. I did not have any clearance issues with the frame. However, I did push out my inner fenders (by about 4" on each side) in order to give better clearance between them and the engine, headers, etc. If you check my thread there is a picture of the headers on post #17, and some pics of the metal work on the inner fenders later in the thread.

[69BUCKET]

Looking for help and PICS of coolant set ups. I have a 5.3 going into a 69 c10. Found an aluminum rad. With port for steam vent. What do I need or HAVE to use... (overflow)...or what is possible as the simplest
option? I am running a manual fan in original shroud. The red. has the outlet under cap. as well. Wondering what is simplest set up.

[tlorber]

I had a radiator guy braze a steam port bung near the top of the radiator tank (1/4 " tube). The steam line goes from the heads to the bung via a rubber tube. The picture attached is not mine, but it shows the tube along the main radiator feed. As long as the steam port is near the top of the cooling system, you're fine.

[69BUCKET]

Originally Posted by tlorber

I had a radiator guy braze a steam port bung near the top of the radiator tank (1/4 " tube). The steam line goes from the heads to the bung via a rubber tube. The picture attached is not mine, but it shows the tube along the main radiator feed. As long as the steam port is near the top of the cooling system, you're fine.
Attachment 1766092

I guess my question is so I have to use the LS OEM pressurized tank I got with engine?

Heater lines to heater core - check
Radiator in/out - check
Steam port to rad. - check

All that's left is small tube at alum. radiator neck. Old school overflow set up to this?

[tlorber]

You can use the original tank, or you can just have an old school remote overflow tank, as long as you have a radiator cap that will hold pressure prior to the overflow tube. Below is a picture of my spout (at the top of the pic) and the puke tank.

[69BUCKET]

Thanks for replies.

Now a question about wiring....so I received my reworked harness...not impressed but it's done....could someone guide me as to which wires on my 69 c10's harness I need to splice into? With starter wire this is a 4 wire harness for 5.3.

[69BUCKET]

Reliable place to send ECM to verify proper things deleted/bypassed?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 69BUCKET

Reliable place to send ECM to verify proper things deleted/bypassed?

If you're just looking for a standard mail order tune with nothing fancy but will get you up and running, lt1swap.com is hard to beat. Cheap and reliable.

[69BUCKET]

Thanks Nova...

Hopefully he'll be able to tell me what ECM is looking for for VSS senor? Dakota Digital said that was crucial before ordering the VSS sensor from them.

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by 69BUCKET

Thanks Nova...

Hopefully he'll be able to tell me what ECM is looking for for VSS senor? Dakota Digital said that was crucial before ordering the VSS sensor from them.

you've already been told WHAT to order

[69BUCKET]

Dakota digital asked me what the ecm pulse reading is i think...128 or something different. I am not sure and ecm doesn't have any labeling on it. I sent lt1swap an email to ask about bad sensor reading from ecm.

[Wildkarde]

The ECM is looking for 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution(this is tens of thousands of pulses per mile), but it uses some math to determine how many pulses per mile that is since it changes with gear ratio/tire size. This is adjustable in tuning software.

The ECM can output a vehicle speed signal on one of two wires, one sends 4000 pulses per mile, usually used for speedometers/cruise, the otther 128k pulses per mile, used for ABS and traction control.

You need to know your rear end gearing and tire size to make the calculations you need. Is your current speedo gear in the trans giving you a correct speed reading on the speedo?

[69BUCKET]

I am running a TH350 behind the 5.3...no ABS, traction, or cruise. No modifications to engine, just stock DBC set up.

I will look at rear end for code to see what I have. Truck has never been running while in my possesion, so no idea if current Speedo gear in trans. is being translated into correct speed. It is a fresh rebuild.

I decided to run a VSS sensor instead of hoping I had no issues w/o it. I am sending ECM to lt1swap to be sure it is done properly. On his site he mentions tire size and gear ratio doesn't matter if I'm running a TH350. As stated before, Dakota Digital asked me what signal was from ECM...128K or something else. I told him I have no idea and didn't say how I can find out. So I am hoping lt1swap can tell me when he gets ECM so I can order correct sensor. Or can anyone reassure me of what part will work with flashed ECM from lt1swap?

[davepl]

Just kind of wandered into this 275 post thread so forgive me if I don't have all the context, but from what I've gathered:

You have an ECM that needs a speed signal sensor. You have a TH350 trans that does not provide a digital speed signal.

So you're adding a VSS sensor that will provide the ECM with a pulsed signal. The ECM and the sender need to agree on how many pulses per revolution. Normally for a GM auto transmission it is 40 pulses per rev.

If, for whatever reason, the speed sensor you wind up using is a different number of pulses per revolution, you can change it in the LS3 computer if you have HPTuners or similar. Odds are you're going to have to edit it to change tire size and gear ratio anyway.

For example I bought the "automatic" LS3 that comes set up for 40 pulses per rev but then put it in front of a TKO-600 trans that is (I think) 17 pulses per mile so changed it in the ECM before I ever installed it.