57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice pics, that explains a lot for those who see your truck for the first time. looks like you have a start with the tools. the bending pliers will tend to kink the line if youre not careful. i use them for close to fittings only when i can't get the other style to fit. there are a few videos showing the tubing bending theories. try a few flares on scrap line till you are confident you have it down to a science. here is a common bender for smooth bends in the open areas of the tubing that allow the tool to fit in.

https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bend...liers-kit.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulc6tiFX6H0

Ill put some practice on both flares and bends and might build a straightening tool as well.

Originally Posted by dsraven

with your set up it is common to attach the prop valve under the master cyl just for ease of running the lines. it could be on the frame out of site though. an adjustable prop valve is nice but once set it is forgotten about unless there are problems or changes made to the system. just ensure the master cyl is one for a disc disc set up as well. a residual valve may be pressed into the master on the drum brake port otherwise and that will give you grief unless it is removed. not sure what the master came from.

OK. Just to show my ignorance here - isnt the proportioning valve the silver thing with the lines on the side (drivers) below the MC ? I do believe its a disk/disk MC my memory just is getting bad on these things and bought it like 2 years ago. So I was thinking thats just a direct hookup and would only need either a residual or adjustable valve if that one wasnt working.

eg looks like this just to side of MC - but silver
https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...p-Valve-1.html

Originally Posted by dsraven

have you checked your pinion angle and compared to the trans output? it looks like it is pointing downward a lot. could be the pic./ pinion angle should be equal but opposite to the trans output within a degree or otherwise you are asking for vibration especially with the offset diff center section.

Yes correct.
Rear end is not where it needs to be -- I still need to weld in perches.
I was going to get the pinion pretty close with a jack to lift it up and get angle ... and then run the lines.

How about stuff like.....

1) Venting rear
2) Flex Lines to Hard lines .....
3) Cleaning calipers/pistons or inspecting them - they have sat like that for 2 years ?
4) Safest/best way to route across the front. Guessing on backside of the XMEMBER ?



Is the soft line to hard line just a locking tab on a bracket like this ? Generally ..... and cycle the axle to make sure nothing pinches.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/prop...019-brakes-jpg


Then there is a banjo bolt I assume for soft like to caliper - but are these standard size ?

Finally - once all hooked up ...... anyway to test ? Just fill with fluid and pump the brakes and bleed ...... and as long as holding pressure and engaging without leaks - should be good ?

[FAKKY]

First 45 flare.
Seems ok.

[dsraven]

OK. Just to show my ignorance here - isnt the proportioning valve the silver thing with the lines on the side (drivers) below the MC ? I do believe its a disk/disk MC my memory just is getting bad on these things and bought it like 2 years ago. So I was thinking thats just a direct hookup and would only need either a residual or adjustable valve if that one wasnt working.

eg looks like this just to side of MC - but silver
https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...p-Valve-1.html


yep, that is the stock valve and the wire connection would go to a dash light that indicated brake trouble. whe a line blows off or some other problem happens in one brake circuit the other brake circuit is still pressured up which causes a piston in that valve to move over and close the circuit in that switch. that prop valve may or may not work for your brake application because it is set up for the vehicle it came from which may not have the same brake bias as you need, that is the reason I mentioned an adjustable prop valve. you can adjust the bias so the rear wheels don't skid undert heavy braking

How about stuff like.....

1) Venting rear
2) Flex Lines to Hard lines .....
3) Cleaning calipers/pistons or inspecting them - they have sat like that for 2 years ?
4) Safest/best way to route across the front. Guessing on backside of the XMEMBER ?


to vent the rear axle you can use a stock axle vent bolt that is long enough to go through a stock rear axle brake hose that would normally go from the frame cross member down to the axle. the hose would have a mounting flange on it for that purpose and the bolt is hollow with a barbed fitting on the end so a diff vent hose can be attached. for the hose if you use a stock hose it will be available at any parts store later on in the life of the truck.

this link talks about that and also some otjher ford 8.8 stuff when swapping axles
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ngler-rearend/

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/axle-vent

flex lines to hard lines
use a bracket welded to the frame (or bolted, whatever. even a hole in the frame flange is common on stock vehicles) to hold the flexible hose and a "C" clip to hold it to the bracket. then the hard line screws into the end of the flex line. look under any vehicle for an idea of how that works. see the pic in the link below and imagine the end of the hose, without the attached bracket, slipping through a hole in the frame of a frame mounted bracket with a hole the size of the fitting o/d, it would bottom out on the C clip attached to the hose already, then on the other side of the bracket another C clip is used to keep the hose from slipping back out of the bracket. the other end of the hose, with the attached bracket, goes to the diff and is held in place with the hollow bolt mentioned above. the hard lines screw into that fitting with the attached bracket and those lines go to each side brake caliper. flex hose like the axle swap pics show in the other link

cleaning calipers etc
plug the brake line hole so no dirt gets inside. if there is already dirt in there simply replace or rebuild the calipers. if they are clean inside the brake fitting hole then plug that and do some cleaning/inspecting. look for a cracked or torn rubber boot, siezed pistons etc. really, if they need work, a rebuilt caliper is pretty cheap compared to resealing the old one and hoping you don't need to buy new pistons etc.

routing the hard line out front
run the hard line across the back side of the ifs member or another cross member that is close. use nice frame clips to hold it securely. terminate the hard lines similar to the rear, with a C clip holding the parts in place

[dsraven]

the brake hose link is an actual ford explorer hose for 94 ish rear axle. the bracket holds the park brake cable as well. easily sourced and if it works on an explorer it should work on your truck too, unless you plan to race or want stainless flex lines
hope that helps and doesn't confuse anybody

[dsraven]

looking good. you'll be a pro and be confident by the second last flare you need to do, haha.

[FAKKY]

DSRAVEN - you are the MAN. Thanks for being here.

First 3/16 run on MC. Took about 4 attemps as the bends were out of alignment.




Didnt realize the other ports are 1/4" ... so going to have to order some new line and fittings for the run off that port. Not sure if its front or back .....

[dsraven]

thanks, just trying to help.
if you take a look at some other cars, even newer stuff, they use a coiled section of tubing or a flex line from te master to the prop valve when they are close like that. it takes away the guess work on a short line like that, allows for some flex between parts and also makes it easier to swap out a master cyl if need be later on.
nice work though.

[dsraven]

you can easily make a loop in the line by using a piece of pipe or a wd40 can or even a spray paint can for something to wrap the line around. be careful not to kink it and point the ends in the direction you need when done.

some pics here

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html

[FAKKY]

Not too much to report on been busy at work.

Cleaning the truck this afternoon ready for a POR15 base in cab area .... then wife will ;ay the soundproofing and matting down.



Fuel Tank parts came in. TanksInc PA-4 and a floatless fuel sender.

[FAKKY]

So whilst doing the main cab section ..... I was looking at the interior headliner.
PO did what looks like a good job from 5ft away ....



But when you get close ....




Debating on whether to pull it out ........ and redo.
Or just leave until after the truck is completed ......... after a few years if I keep it I might end up pulling the whole chassis/panel and having it professionally blasted and patched and sealed etc.

thoughts ?

[FAKKY]

1st layer done .... thanks wife



foam seperator going on top followed by MLV layer after that.

[FAKKY]

3 layers of soundproofing down -ready for 4th layer of matt.


Tank done today by welder - will drill out the holes ready for pump/sender.

[FAKKY]

Tank drilled out with 1.5" drill and for the 4.5" I just used my plasma cutter worked ok.



Assembling both the sender and the fuel pump 2 small issues.
Sender bolts too short due to the 1/8th thick plate.

Pump didnt come with a return line (plastic) even though meant to. I have some line lying around but not sure if fuel safe - anyway to know if no markings ?

1 is oil cooler line thats a little big but might work with a clamp ..... other is this



So off to buy some fule safe gasket/cement and some more nuts and maybe fuel line.

[FAKKY]

Laying out harness

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

3 layers of soundproofing down -ready for 4th layer of matt.

I used a similar approach, the interior sound level was drastically reduced. I think you are going to like it

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

I used a similar approach, the interior sound level was drastically reduced. I think you are going to like it

[FAKKY]

Pulled this out of teh cupboard today just to see what it looked like. I should have gone shorter ... but hadn't bought the headers and was worried about going to short.
Might just have to piull it back 1" more than I want - or look to do some aftermarket fab.







Anyone used clearcoat on theirs - hold up ok ?

[FAKKY]

Hate when the simple stuff turns out to be a the biggest PITA

[joedoh]

column looks good!

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Hate when the simple stuff turns out to be a the biggest PITA

thats the law of projects buddy.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

column looks good!

thats the law of projects buddy.

Just funny how the things you think will tak 30 mins take 3 hours. And the things you thnk will take 3 hours ...... well still 3 hours HA HA

Got the fuel in and out lines to the corvettte filter done ....... just going to pressure test them though. I can 100% say it doesnt work like the videos. You have to cut back the outer sheathing and trim the steel wire slightly away from the ferrule else there's too much interference to get them to join.

Blue/silver parts here are ust the start of parts for pressurising.

[FAKKY]

Pressure tested to 80psi.



Installed

[FAKKY]

Practising TIG ...... its a LOT of fun.

Deciding on stainless or aluminium for exhaust.

[joedoh]

pretty!

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

So whilst doing the main cab section ..... I was looking at the interior headliner.
PO did what looks like a good job from 5ft away ....

What is that stuff? I like it, may put it in mine.

[dsraven]

fakky, will you need to connect the 2 ends of the tank to the middle so air can vent from the area as the tank is filled? will fuel be able to get up in that spot without letting the air out as the fuel level rises? you have that covered and I just missed it prolly.