Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[Kim57]

Looking real nice.
Kim

[dsraven]

dugg,
good to see you are back at it. I have done lots of wiring over the years and you just have to look at it a circuit at a time if you feel overwhelmed. it isn't that tough if you have a good set of reading glasses and a wiring diagram, I figured it out so anybody should be able to do it, ha ha.
I actually got to spend a couple hours on my old 57 project before another rush job came knocking. ah well, it has been 4 yrs now so what is another day, grrr.
good luck and keep posting, maybe it will get me back in the groove. just on a side note, do you think there is room for the 4.2l engine between the rad and the cab if the stock envoy mounts are used for the 4.2l inline 6? how much did you have to move your trans mount ahead to fit up with the v8 position? that may tell me if there would be room or not.
thanks,
dennis

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Your project is looking great. Love the idea of using the ford Expedition Power Steering cooler. As for fuel lines, I plan to use the ones found on a Chevy truck. They are attached to the motor/tranny and exit the back of the tranny on the driver's side. I will make up the lines from that point to the fuel tank. Does the Trailblazer PCM program have a circuit for the electric fans - or do you plan to control them with a "stand alone" system? I used a Camaro program on the GTO because I needed electric fans, and those circuits on the "truck" programs control something on the HVAC.

I hope to work on shortening the Trailblazer EXT frame this weekend - we will see. Thanks again for posting your build - it has been a real timesaver.
Ricky

The PCM does have a circuit for the fan that I intend to use. Looks like wire 42 in the Blue Connector labeled "Fan 1 Relay Control" off the LT1swap.com pinouts.

Good idea on the fuel lines. I will check my buddies yard tomorrow for a set off of a truck and adapt them as required. Should be plug and play if they reach and as long as I can find a set with a return line which I understand has been eliminated on some years.

Can't wait to see the shortening process. Hope you don't have to break the brake lines.

By the way, found the body that came off of my frame and got a picture of the codes on the glove box door. Necessary to know what rear end I have so the computer can be re-flashed. Code is GT4 which is a 3.73.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Your project is looking great. Love the idea of using the ford Expedition Power Steering cooler. As for fuel lines, I plan to use the ones found on a Chevy truck. They are attached to the motor/tranny and exit the back of the tranny on the driver's side. I will make up the lines from that point to the fuel tank. Does the Trailblazer PCM program have a circuit for the electric fans - or do you plan to control them with a "stand alone" system? I used a Camaro program on the GTO because I needed electric fans, and those circuits on the "truck" programs control something on the HVAC.

I hope to work on shortening the Trailblazer EXT frame this weekend - we will see. Thanks again for posting your build - it has been a real timesaver.
Ricky

Originally Posted by dsraven

dugg,
good to see you are back at it. I have done lots of wiring over the years and you just have to look at it a circuit at a time if you feel overwhelmed. it isn't that tough if you have a good set of reading glasses and a wiring diagram, I figured it out so anybody should be able to do it, ha ha.
I actually got to spend a couple hours on my old 57 project before another rush job came knocking. ah well, it has been 4 yrs now so what is another day, grrr.
good luck and keep posting, maybe it will get me back in the groove. just on a side note, do you think there is room for the 4.2l engine between the rad and the cab if the stock envoy mounts are used for the 4.2l inline 6? how much did you have to move your trans mount ahead to fit up with the v8 position? that may tell me if there would be room or not.
thanks,
dennis

Dennis: Hang in there...the time will come. Reached in with a tape and it looks like approximately 2.5" from trans mount bolts (the ones that go from trans to trans mount) to the center of the slotted holes on the top of the cross member. See photo. If you need an exact dimension, I will be under the vehicle tomorrow and can measure it more accurately. dug

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Looking real nice.
Kim

Kim...thanks...got a head of steam going now. In case I failed to mention, I put an arbitrary "drive it around the neighborhood" date of June 2014. Good to have due dates to keep me moving ahead. dug

[ricott]

Good that you got the glove box info. Look to see if the code G80 is also there. If so, you have a Limited Slip 3:73. My wifey's v8 Envoy has that gear and you will like it in your truck - plenty of power. Looking forward to a video in June of a drive through your neighborhood that isn't gravity/foot powered – although a true gearhead loves any king of ride in their project! I believe GM went to returnless fuel systems on their pickups in 2003, so a 99-02 should have what you need. I am picking up my friend's trailer after work tonight, and plan to pick up my frame (and a half) Saturday AM. It looks like I will have to do something with the brake lines, although I am hopeful it will only be the rear line.

[OldChevysRule]

Doug..it is good to see more activity on your build. I noticed you mentioned something about PS hoses.....NAPA auto parts used to make custom hydraulic hoses. At least the one back in my neck of the woods in NE Alabama made them. I remember my dad had some made for a vehicle when I was a kid. I am sure it was a lot cheaper, too. I know we all like to save money wherever possible. I am getting anxious to get home and start back on the disassembly of my truck in a few months. Spain is getting old!! Hopefully, you will not have moved to Orange Beach by the time I get home...I would like to meet you face-to-face and check out your build. I started a thread on my build(s). Check it out and let me know what you think. Jason

[dug224]

Originally Posted by OldChevysRule

Doug..it is good to see more activity on your build. I noticed you mentioned something about PS hoses.....NAPA auto parts used to make custom hydraulic hoses. At least the one back in my neck of the woods in NE Alabama made them. I remember my dad had some made for a vehicle when I was a kid. I am sure it was a lot cheaper, too. I know we all like to save money wherever possible. I am getting anxious to get home and start back on the disassembly of my truck in a few months. Spain is getting old!! Hopefully, you will not have moved to Orange Beach by the time I get home...I would like to meet you face-to-face and check out your build. I started a thread on my build(s). Check it out and let me know what you think. Jason

Jason.....Thanks for the suggestion but sometimes I have a tendency to complicate things. Once my head cleared, I got on Rockauto.com and ordered a set of V-8 Trailblazer P.S. hoses (High $37, Low $17). Spent about as much on the hoses as I did running around town looking for someone to customize my I-6 hoses. Too bad they don't have fuel lines. Don't worry about Orange Beach.....it won't happen anytime soon. Moving my 89 year old Mom into assisted living next then fixing up and selling her house. Heard an old retired guy once say that after he retired, he was so busy now that he didn't know when he had time to work. I am there.

Can't remember exactly the direction you are taking but don't forget, they made 4x4 Trailblazers. Can get a good smashed up extended one and you can be on your way.

When you get home, lets get together. dug

[OldChevysRule]

I am glad you got your PS hose sorted out. I have heard retired guys say the same thing about being busier after retirement than before they retired. I will be retiring from the military in December 2016, but I won't be actually retired! I will still have to find work somewhere, as I still have bills to pay and I have things I want! As for the 4X4 TB, I hadn't really thought of that option. I am not sure if I would be able to get enough lift with the TB frame to run 33" tires, though. I don't want to go any bigger than that on tire size. I will keep that in the back of my mind, though. My brother has an '82 or '84 Chevy 4X4 frame that he said I could have, but it doesn't have all the running gear. I would just have to get it brought down from NE Alabama if I decide to use it. I don't want to go too overboard on either of the builds. I just want to keep the trucks alive and be able to pass them down to my two sons someday. Once I get the 3100 paid off and see how bad it is as far as rust, I may be able to get it in a drivable condition and use it as a parts chaser for the 3200. My plans seem to revolve around money, or the lack of, so everything is up in the air right now. Once I get home, I will be able to come up with a better plan for both of the trucks. Take care......Jason

[dug224]

Made some pretty decent headway:
- Power steering system ready to go. Once I get the front clip on and determine the location of the P.S. cooling, I can shorten lines and permanently mount it.
- Radiator fully plumbed. Plugged radiator pressure outlet to overflow tank (permanently) and relief tube at radiator cap (temporarily). Still don't own the cooling fan. Will buy an electric single or double fan that is less than 3.5" deep. The max coil area I am mounting to is 23-3/8" x 18-1/2". Will add a short loop to cap the heater hose locations at the block.
- Gas Pedal and T.A.C. (throttle actuator controller) have been sourced and are in place. Wiring them into the system not yet complete.
- Brakes are fully functional including e-brake. Still need to route the booster to intake manifold hose.
- Cab bolts, Seats, steering shaft/column and steering wheel are back in place.
- Wiring. PCM located on inner fender at radiator. TAC located just behind it on the inner fender (see photo). Will review the final wiring requirements then send off the PCM for re-flashing. Still have to sort out the minimum number of switches and relays required to make it driveable and install split loom.
- Engine compartment has been mocked up with battery, PCM, TAC, overflow tank, etc. Still may move battery to under bed location since I have heater hoses, AC hoses and P.S. hoses to route in and around the passenger firewall.
- Still need to determine where MAF sensor, tubing and air cleaner will go. Looks like enough room near the future radiator overflow.
- Trans cooling lines are in the garage and have yet to be bent. Bought straight metal 50" and 60" lines that are pre-flared and have fittings installed. With trusty new cheapo tubing bender from H.F., I will attempt to bend and install today. Mocked up first look at routing down the passenger side with coat hangers using the tubing bender to make the bends. I paid about $8 each of the lines so if I screw them up, it won't be too big of a hit. Will take one more look at routing them under the frame rather than over the shock tower this morning to keep engine compartment less cluttered.
- Transmission shifter and cable are not installed. Will take a look at this today. Should be pretty easy to screw down the shifter to the transmission hump and drill a hole for the cable. Future location may be more refined once I get the center console worked out.
- To keep from spending money on new fuel lines, with my tubing bender, I will attempt to bend the factory I-6 fuel lines so they line up with the 5.3 LM4 fuel rail. Remember, the I-6 lines are routed to the front top driver side of the engine. The 5.3 fuel rail feeds from the back of the engine at the firewall.

By the way, in the interest of having stuff NOT fall off on the first drive, I am systematically tightening everything I touch or install....then follow-up one more time to make sure I have not missed anything. It works...I found the hinge bolt nut for the brake pedal hanging by a couple of hand tightened bolt threads. Probably would not have fallen off but it is buried behind the cluster and may have gone un-noticed until it did fall off in a few years. The good news is that my buddy Jim will be over today for some adult supervision on Trans and Fuel line bending. dug

[Kim57]

Sounds like you're making good progress.
Looking good.
Keep the pics coming.
Kim

[OldChevysRule]

Sounds like you have been busy. Nice work. Can't wait to see it completed.
Keep up the good work.

[ricott]

The picture of the engine compartment is the Money shot as far as I'm concerned. Looking real good, and it should be making noise real soon. If you haven't fabbed up a mount for your computer, get one from a S10 pickup, it is flat and very easy to mount. What are you doing about the exhaust crossover pipe, or will you build a duel setup?

One final question, early in your build you posted that the firewall was 16 and 3/4 inches from the center bolt of the shock tower. Your front wheels look great in opening, but I was wondering if the cab was moved forward by 3/4 of an inch, do you think it would affect the visual spacing of the wheel in the wheelwell on the front? The reason for my question is the trailblazer firewall (when bolted to the trailblazer frame) is 16 inches from the center of the shock tower bolt - (thus if I go with the current mount, my tires will be 3/4 of an inch further back in the wheelwell). The good news (if it works) is the radiator would be 3/4 of an inch further from the engine.

I used your "tire study" information and bought two 255/55/18 for the back of my truck, and I used two 245/60/18 (well used) from my wifey's Envoy for the front of the truck. Thanks again for sharing your hard work.

Ricky

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

The picture of the engine compartment is the Money shot as far as I'm concerned. Looking real good, and it should be making noise real soon. If you haven't fabbed up a mount for your computer, get one from a S10 pickup, it is flat and very easy to mount. What are you doing about the exhaust crossover pipe, or will you build a duel setup?

One final question, early in your build you posted that the firewall was 16 and 3/4 inches from the center bolt of the shock tower. Your front wheels look great in opening, but I was wondering if the cab was moved forward by 3/4 of an inch, do you think it would affect the visual spacing of the wheel in the wheelwell on the front? The reason for my question is the trailblazer firewall (when bolted to the trailblazer frame) is 16 inches from the center of the shock tower bolt - (thus if I go with the current mount, my tires will be 3/4 of an inch further back in the wheelwell). The good news (if it works) is the radiator would be 3/4 of an inch further from the engine.

I used your "tire study" information and bought two 255/55/18 for the back of my truck, and I used two 245/60/18 (well used) from my wifey's Envoy for the front of the truck. Thanks again for sharing your hard work.

Ricky

Handy tip on the S10 bracket. Will pursue. One more thing I can soon strike off the list. Plan on having local muffler shot fabricate a crossover that will feed the single I-6 exhaust system. No real reason for it other than it is already there waiting on me to tie into.

Man, that's a tough question on the architecture of the wheel in the wheel opening. I know I stared and adjusted it for many hours and still not entirely sure it is right. Let me give it some thought tomorrow or Wednesday.

So you went with a taller front tire that I did. If I did my math right, your tire wall height is slightly taller in the front than in the rear. That is, 6.75mm for each wall for a total overall height difference of 13.5mm (0.55"). Did I get that right? As far away from each other as they are they will probably look the same. Looks like I went 30mm smaller per wall for a total of 60mm (2.3") overall height difference smaller. Will get back with you soon. dug

[dug224]

Got the transmission lines plumbed. Used two 60" hard lines that were "pre-flared" and had fittings at both ends. Removed the quick disconnect fittings at the radiator and used normal fittings. The lines are about $8 each. Decided to cut them and add a flex section down near the transmission. Had to get creative at the transmission with the upper line attachments. Used a couple of elbows to get out from under my fancy transmission tunnel. Would have been a bit easier had I given myself another 1.5" of room. Decided to move the battery to the back of the truck in light of all the refrigerant and hot water lines that have to go through the firewall. Thanks to my buddy Jim for the adult supervision on the AT Trans line bends. dug

[Kim57]

Trans lines came out real nice.
Kim

[dug224]

Got the shifter and cable in place. Used metal screws to hold it down so not a permanent installation. May need to raise it once the center console is designed. Decided to route the long shift cable under the truck rather than in the cab. Feels better to me. The loop heads towards the engine from the shifter through the trans tunnel then over the transmission to the left where it sits on top of the driver side frame and continues over the trans cross member to the back side of the shift bracket.

In preparation for the drive, I installed the front clip loosely. I will adjust and tighten once I get all the components in place. Had to install the grill since it had been hanging on the wall way too long.

Sent PCM off for re-flashing. Should have it back next week.

Included one FYI photo to show how much of the intake sticks above the fenders.

Ricky: I studied the 3/4" tire move after I got the fenders on. It does not bother me moving the wheel back 3/4". You do have a different size tire so this may influence the look over and above what I can see with my tire size. Looking at the driver side wheel, there is a substantial gap at about 2:00 which moving the tire back would fill. See photo. I just didn't want a large gap in front of the tire that made the truck look front heavy. Also, snagged a bracket to hold my PCM from a 2005 Tahoe. Same PCM. The S-10 was a good bit larger. Thanks for the advice.......dug

[ricott]

You are getting close - the truck is really looking good. Thanks for the picture of the front wheel well, I really like how your truck looks. I think I'm going to mount the cab and front cap and then adjust forward/back, but not up/down. Since the rear mounts will need to be placed and welded, it wouldn't be that much more to move the front mounts if that is needed to get the best spacing in the wheel well.

I have another request, if you don't mind. I need to know about how much your front springs are compressed. At some point during the next few days, could you pull a measurement from the center of the upper A-Frame to shock tower bolt down to the center of the bolt that bolts the shock/strut to bottom A-Frame? I will use that number to approximate how much lower my truck will sit (right now the spring is fully extended). My engine is an Iron block 6.0, so it will weigh about 70/80 pounds more than the engine you have, but your number should get me in the ball park for front ride height. I plan to build a "Treaded Rod" replacement for both front spring assemblies this weekend. Once I have your measurements, I will set the front ride height at that number for "mock up " purposes. I appreciate your help.

Ricky

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

You are getting close - the truck is really looking good. Thanks for the picture of the front wheel well, I really like how your truck looks. I think I'm going to mount the cab and front cap and then adjust forward/back, but not up/down. Since the rear mounts will need to be placed and welded, it wouldn't be that much more to move the front mounts if that is needed to get the best spacing in the wheel well.

I have another request, if you don't mind. I need to know about how much your front springs are compressed. At some point during the next few days, could you pull a measurement from the center of the upper A-Frame to shock tower bolt down to the center of the bolt that bolts the shock/strut to bottom A-Frame? I will use that number to approximate how much lower my truck will sit (right now the spring is fully extended). My engine is an Iron block 6.0, so it will weigh about 70/80 pounds more than the engine you have, but your number should get me in the ball park for front ride height. I plan to build a "Treaded Rod" replacement for both front spring assemblies this weekend. Once I have your measurements, I will set the front ride height at that number for "mock up " purposes. I appreciate your help.

Ricky

Ricky: Was headed to the garage when I got your request. I believe I understood your request. Included a photo to be sure. Laying on the ground behind the front left wheel looking up. I get 14-3/8" from bottom strut bolt to center-line of upper "A" arm big bolt. My hood is not on and I am lacking other contributing factors like glass, bumper, brackets, etc. Not sure how much it really matters. When I was piling on the 60 lb sand bags trying to simulate the weight back in the day, I was hardly making anything move. Not sure how much this body weighs relative to the T.B. but, it seems to me, it would be a good bit lighter. When we gravity drove it, it handled more like a sports car than a truck. Dug

[ricott]

That is exactly the measurement I wanted - great job of decipering my unclear request. Thanks again.

[Kim57]

It's looking real good.
Kim

[dug224]

Jim came over and we recycled the old I-6 fuel lines into my temporary fuel line setup. They are about 22" too long and had many bends in them that were not useful to me. As a result, we sent them through an old woodworking vice with extra smooth and wide jaws. Taped some soft rags on the jaws to lessen the blow. Got them straight-ish (see photo at firewall) and then re-bent them with a substantial loop in them to absorb the extra length. With a pair of pliers, rotated the braided crimped on sections to align the quick disconnect fittings at the engine. Did not expect this to work but seemed to rotate fairly easy. Normally, the fuel lines come straight up in the back center of the engine so they would be a good deal shorter. We brought them from over the top of the Brake Booster to use up length. Missing in the photo is the EVAP line that will be bent up today and installed. Will add the factory plastic fuel line separators and devise a way to clip them for a more finished look. Braided lines with AN fittings will probably be the final choice for fuel lines. Factory filler neck to gas tank is now in place ready to take on fuel..... dug.

[ricott]

Looks like you have the gas lines ready to go (for now). What is the ETA on the computer reflash? On a different note, I used your strut measurements last weekend to check mine - Houston we may have a problem. It appears that your springs in front have only compressed approximately 1/2 inch. I would have expected it to have settled more than that. Looking at the charts, the trailblazer had a 53/47 weight distribution, and approximately 2446 pounds on the front end. This would explain the stiff ride when you were coasting. If I can get the Wifey to park her Envoy long enough for me to measure see how much her springs are compressed.

[ricott]

Sorry the follow up, but I failed to completely state the possible issue. Looking at the charts, the trailblazer had a 53/47 weight distribution, and approximately 2446 pounds on the front end. I looked up the curb weight for a 1958 chevy pickup and it listed 1650 pounds on the front - approximately 800 pounds less. This would explain the stiff ride when you were coasting. Can't wait for a video of your truck running.

Ricky

[dug224]

Like I said, I kept piling on the sand bags with very little spring deflection.

Computer re-flash sometime late this week or early next week. In the morning, I will begin putting the wire loom back on my harness and segregating what needs 12V. Also need to re-install the starter and wire up that circuit. By the end of the week I should have the wiring wrapped up which, optimistically, lines me up for a start-up as soon as this weekend. I have one pesky wire (orange w/black) that is associated with the fuel tank I have not tied down.

Ordered a single 16" 2,500 CFM electric radiator fan today along with a new fuel filter. Fan is about 1/8" thinner than the room I have available. Hopefully, they measured to the small raised circle on the end of the motor. If this is the case, it will miss the threaded engine pulley since the center of the engine is not in line with the center of the radiator. I guess I could also slip the fan to one side of the radiator if clearance is a problem. Dug