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#1 |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Well Saturday arrived again with visions of doughnuts...….I think my standards are way too high..LOL
We got the new convertor in and they wheels do move now...….But it still is not running right....It seems now that the stall is too high. We adjusted linkage, played with the carb, messed with the timing ALL to no avail...We changed governors and still didn't run right...So I have had a 2500-2700 convertor, just put in a 3200-3600. The 2500-2700 shifted too quick and wouldn't let the RPMs come up. The 3200-3600 held the shift way too long and wouldn't go into overdrive until way late. It could be a stuck valve in the tranny, stall could be too high, motor could be off in the timing department...We are thinking that the cam may be one tooth off....BUT at this point we are clueless. Just a lot of speculation at this point. So we have come up with a plan...I am NOW going to buy a 2800-3200 stall....When we pull out the tranny, Randy is going to take it back apart and check the valves and the rest of the tranny just so he has peace of mind. After this is done we will once again install the tranny and take it for a ride...if after all this it still will not run right, then it is going to the shop who built the motor and it will be on them to make it run. If the tranny wont work with a stall range from 2500-3600 and the internals are right then it has to be the motor. A 327 should light the tires on fire, especially with the bed off...….or at least that is what I think. So after fooling with it most of the day I wanted to at least get something done so we change all the body mounts with polypropylene mounts...this wasn't too bad. I was really surprised how the rubber mounts had deteriorated.....The center shaft was almost non existent and the rubber parts just crumbled. Then we changed the radiator support mounts...and of course one wanted to be a total pain so we had to cut it off with a Sawzall...It was all we had but eventually we got it out and installed the new mounts. I wanted to get the new mounts installed because Bryan from Fullermoto said he was ready for me to bring it over and get the rust repaired....So one day this week I will trailer it over and let the rust repair start.....I want it to be on its on power while its there...so much easier to load and unload off a trailer. But that's the weekend update...lol |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
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Re: Johns 66
Wow, quite the Saturday! I can't believe it still isn't running right. You guys will figure it out soon enough.
How difficult were the body mounts? I have been thinking of changing mine out, just will be easier now than later. Any links to videos or any helpful hints? |
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#3 | |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
Its not hard at all....main thing is you will need someone to help you...After removing the bolt or nuts....bolts on the rear have a captive nut. What we did was use a 2x4 with a block of wood to slightly raise the rear of the cab so you could get the old mounts out...mine were stuck pretty good from all the dirt and grime. on the fronts it has a bolt and nut....so you may need someone on the inside with a wrench so you can loosen...once the bolt is out we used a jack with a block of wood under the floor support to raise it to get the old mount out...we had to raise it about a 1/4" after we got the old mount out since the new one was a little taller and didn't compress. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
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Re: Johns 66
Thanks! That helps and makes total sense. I was thinking a block of wood also...Did you find them somewhere other than LMCtruck at a good price...seems like about $60 for the set?
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Hollister, California
Posts: 230
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Re: Johns 66
Wow John! Crazy how a torque converter can cause so much work. I'm sure you will be closing in on it now and be able to do those donuts soon.
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#6 | ||
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
I read somewhere that you needed to change all of the mounts before doing any body work since it may cause things to not line up if you do them after. Quote:
One another side note.....I took a long look at my truck yesterday...specifically the stance of it....I had intended to do the traditional 2/4 drop but after looking at it and realizing that when you start messing with the suspension it tends to change a lot more than just adding drop spindles and lowering springs...… I have already bought new shocks when I started working on it...and if I lowered it I would have to buy new shocks...just little things like this made me to decide that Ill just change the springs and be done with it......at some point I will change the fronts to disc brakes with a 5x5 bolt pattern. I have also saw a kit that sells new axles, drums, seal etc to change the rear to 5x5 bolt pattern....but for now Ill leave it alone and drive it until the fundage gets back up to do disc, rear axles and new shoes for it. |
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#7 |
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Location: Hickory Flat, GA
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Re: Johns 66
That sucks about the transmission thing. At least you were able to do that mounts and still have a successful day. After going under the truck a bunch doing the trans swap, I realized that is something that I should probably do too lol
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Christian Carpenter 1963 C10 - Frankentruck 283, Muncie 3 speed with overdrive Overdrive wiring here1963-ish truck bed trailer - Half-Wit 1981 C10 - Penny 305, th350 --> Soon to be 350, Saginaw 4 speed 1995 Dodge Dakota Sport "I'll put it simple: if you're going hard enough left, you'll find yourself turning right." - Doc Hudson |
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#8 |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Well got a few things done...or should I say started.
Been going over in my mind about the rust repair that is going to happen and a few thoughts on that. My doors are in pretty decent shape with only a couple of small areas that would need to be fixed....The issue is that the PO cut the interior doors and put speakers in them...not a big fan of cutting doors. So yesterday I decided to take everything out of the doors except the door latch so it can be closed securely when I am taking it to the shop. As I started taking things out I noticed that whomever put the speakers in the doors used some type of synthetic batting and placed it behind the speaker...I guess to keep from rattling...I also realized that they used the forward part of the door area to put the speaker in.....also while taking things a part I really understood just how poorly these things were designed in that the only thing that keeps water from inside the doors in the little felt whisker that keeps the glass from rattling and thus most of the door internals were rusted. This lead to 2 conclusions...1 is that I am going to use the NOS doors that I bought. 1 it saves me in rust repair on the doors and no telling what it would cost to fix the speaker holes in the doors.....and 2 that some type of drainage needs to be placed in the door bottoms so water that gets in can get out not that I am planning to drive around in the rain all day but I do plane to wash it and keep it clean. The other is that the internal parts need to be coated so that when water gets inside that it will not rust up again....because taking the windows out was a pain...I guess I don't know the trick of how to get them out easier. While the truck is in the shop I plan on rebuilding the vent windows, replacing the glass tape that hold the window in the channel and make sure they will be ready to install after the doors are painted. So I cleaned everything up best I could and the put a coat of POR15 on the parts...….I am doing one side at a time....just so I can always look at the other if I forget how the vent window goes back together...not too hard but just wanna be safe. I also bought some automotive paint from the paint store and had it put in an aerosol can so when I go to paint the vent window tracks it will hopefully last...Rustoleum just doesn't seem to cut it.....So the process begins |
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#9 |
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Re: Johns 66
To continue of the previous post...I did noticed that the side glass was pretty scratched up...I cleaned it and the polished the glass but wasn't able to get the scratches out.....One side had a vertical scratch that ran from top to bottom...not sure what caused it but it happened over a period of time...so looks like I am gonna have to get some new side glass...Classic Chevy has them for about 38.00.
I am also gonna go to the hardware store to see if I can find the screws that hold everything to the door...several of the screws heads were pretty messed up...these vendors charge a good price for all these screws ranging from .35 to .75 a piece...I already had bought the door panel screws just need the ones that hold the parts onto the door. Lastly I read kdads build and he had mentioned a sandblasting attachment that goes on your pressure washer...I pm'd him and he sent me the link and I ordered one..it was 45.00 shipped so if it works half as good for me as it did him it will make doing my frame and a few other things a whole lots better....seem to be pretty well made and my pressure washer is 4000 psi so it should do well. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
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Re: Johns 66
Nice progress with cleaning everthing, I went thru a bunch of sanding disc' s also. After they loose the best grit, I use about 12 of them stacked up...punch a hole in the center and use a nut and bolt and a couple flat washers..regular corldless drill...gets into some hard to get at places....Late to the party as usual...Nice parts score, the plating is awesome . Truck is coming together nicely.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 Last edited by notsolo; 01-16-2019 at 04:28 PM. |
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#11 |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Well Ole girl has been dropped off at Fuller Hot Rods in Tucker Ga....I am smart enough to realize that I am no metal man or welder...Im more of a hole burner and I was once told that a wise man knows when he has met his limits.....with that said Bryan fuller is a really nice guy...you may remember him from Overhaulin...he worked for Chip Foose for years and knows his stuff.
I picked up the bedside and rear cross brace and they look really good...no more 1/4 to 1/2 deep of bondo...now a skin coat should do. We went over the entire truck, he made some recommendations on how to fix some things and we had a nice visit, also you may also know Phil Cato from Iron Resurrection...he was their interior guy..Well he moved and now has a place at Fuller Street Rods so he was able to look at the truck, give me some suggestions on how to do the interior and he actually had a C10 seat that he was working on for someone that gave me an idea of what he was talking about. He is gonna work me up an estimate to do the interior when time comes...They both understand that this truck will be no show queen and I am gonna drive it. So the sake of remembering here is what they are gonna do. Replace the rockers...passenger side isn't really messed up and he said once he gets into it he will decide if it needs replacing. Fix the hole in the floor board about 14 x 10 section Fix the cab corners Fix 2 small areas in the front fenders maybe 2in x 2in Fix a few holes inside the cab where Ricky the Redneck hung a gun rack Fix a couple of holes in the firewall I don't need Fix a small place on the frame. They are gonna hang the new doors and get the gaps adjusted and align the panels on the truck.... Taligate had a slight bow in it so they are gonna try to straighten it, plus one little rusted area about 1x1 2 places on the cab they are gonna have to beat out...one is near the gas filler on the rear of the cab same on the opposite side...they had a half inch worth on bondo in them. Hopefully once the metal work is done I wont have to do a lot of bondo work, more of a skim coat to get things slick. Got home and sent Ruben at Electroplating of El Paso my grille. The other parts I sent back are on their way home. Took the bedside and crossmember to a friends shop and he is gonna put a coat of primer on that so they wont flash rust since they have been blasted. So while the truck is at Bryans shop Im gonna get all the door internal cleaned up, treated and painted, vent windows rebuilt and get ready for the next round of work which will include putting the bed together and milling the wood for the bed. Just have to wait on LMC to deliver the new bed side and front panel. Whew that's a mouth full.....lol No pics of stuff but I did take a pic of this!!!! Pretty cool |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
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Re: Johns 66
Nice update...I am sure you are excited to have all the rust repaired and get closer to being finished. Can't wait to see it all when they get finished. I am also interested in the tailgate...mine has a few places that need straightening out. Love the wheels on Catos van.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Greeneville TN
Posts: 251
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Re: Johns 66
You are making some real progress my brotha!!
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#14 | |
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
They are pretty good in the metal department from what I saw when I was there...lot of cool stuff they are building...I didn't take any pictures because they are in some contest of a custom bike build so I respected their secrecy on that. Now the wait game starts. Thanks Jimmy...its a process for sure. |
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#15 |
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Re: Johns 66
Did a lil piddling today...not much could be done cause of the dreary weather...But I did get the vent window sanded and taped out and ready to paint it..Didnt realize how tedious this taping thing is...may have used the wrong tape...maybe a thinner type would work better...Glad I only have 2 to do..lol
Now I have to find that round top rivet that hold the window on the angled vertical piece |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
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Re: Johns 66
Amazing how long it takes to do things like that.
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#17 |
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Re: Johns 66
Buddy you aint never lied.....and today I continued. I ended up painting the frames a couple of times trying to get them to look as good as my abilities and knowledge allow me.
Today I started the assembly of the passenger side. The repop rubber kits wasn't too bad once I learned how to hold my mouth and stand on one foot facing east. I also had bought a new handle awhile back so I got it installed as well. Once I greased the inside of the rubber it went into the track a little easier than without. AND when installing the handle you have to push hard to collapse the little spring...or you will forever be trying to put the drive pin in that holds the handle. I didn't bend the tabs over on the nut because I still have to install the rivets and wanted to make sure that I could easily remove if need be. Now that this one is together I will take the drivers side apart and start on it. It may not be showroom new but sure beats the heck out of 300.00 for some repop ones....and I know these fit ![]() Still have to install the window channel felt on the back side but gonna wait til I get the rivets installed Last edited by Johns 66; 01-18-2019 at 06:30 PM. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
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Re: Johns 66
Looks great and anytime we can preserve original it is better IMO than buying repop. I'm a perfectionist on a non perfectionist budget...so I feel your pain on holding one leg in the air while your tongue hangs out to make it look as good as you can.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Hollister, California
Posts: 230
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Re: Johns 66
Lookin great John, Having Fuller do the sheetmetal im gonna just say it makes me more than a lil jelous. LOL Good for you.
Always liked Cato's interior work.
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#20 | |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
I got my sandblaster attachment in the mail yesterday and cant wait to use it...now just gotta get the truck back and start on the frame etc.....I think I may do my hood like you done yours. Got my stuff back from Ruben at El Paso Electroplating.....He fixed all the issues I saw and really did a nice job on the parts....My grille is on its way to him and should be there Monday. I will say that the parts aren't perfect...but Im really picky but for the price I paid Im NOT complaining plus unless I showed you, you probably couldn't find the very small and minor flaws |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
Posts: 1,698
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Re: Johns 66
John, what are you doing with your brakes? I think you have all 4 drum now? Are you going to upgrade the front to discs? My front are discs, but I want to do a new master cylinder and booster since I am freshening everything under the hood.
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#22 | |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
Early Classic Enterprises has a disc set up that will supposedly work with the stock suspension. I am gonna keep the stock ride height...they also have a kit for the rear...It sways the axles to the 5 bolt lug pattern and has new drums etc....The folks I talked with made it sound relatively easy....pull the old axles and install the new ones. This is probably gonna happen after I get ole girl back on the road since I can do this as a weekend project plus when I change I will have to buy new wheels and tires. |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
Posts: 1,698
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Re: Johns 66
Yeah I forgot you would have to change wheels also...Luckily mine were done by the PO with discs and the switch to 5 lug.
Where did you get your booster/master cylinder...new or used? Are you using CaptainFab's bracket? |
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#24 | |
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Location: Talladega Alabama
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Re: Johns 66
Quote:
Truck stops really good right now but have only been able to drive around the block so really haven't been able to test them. 5x5 bolt pattern gives me a lot more options for wheels....I am thinking of a 5 spoke rim....always liked that style. My thoughts go back and forth on wheels and colors....My truck will be white and am thinking of painting the interior a charcoal gray and going the accent stripe down the side in the same....but I do like the red stripe as well.....Chrome wheels or a Gunmetal gray wheel would look pretty good I think.....I some time ways from paint and wheels but never to late to think about it. I also ordered new front and rear springs along with new retainers, plus I ordered a front sway bar from CPP...actually off of their Ebay store since it was cheaper than calling them direct....have no clue why that's the case |
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#25 |
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Re: Johns 66
Pride goeth before the fall...….
Feeling extremely confident that the drivers side vent window assembly would be a little easier since I had just finished the passenger side...I started on the drivers side today. Not a whole bunch of parts on these things so..not too hard Right? Well looks like I was wrong.....It appears that this one will be a little more challenging because when I took out the vent window and started sanding on it wellllll the ole vent window frame decided that it not longer needed to be attached to the window...guess their 53 yr relationship was over...I think the window wanted to see other people...LOL On the bright side this will help not having to tape off the window when painting the frame...lol...it aint funny..lol The only part that was really stuck was the bottom part ...guess due to the rusted area. So now Im gonna have to learn how to install this vent window glass into the frame....I have window setting tape that I bought to do the side windows...Only real area of concern for me is the tight radius at the bottom. So I put some POR15 on the inside of the window track and on the mounting areas where it attaches to the door |
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