47-55.1 Long Time Coming......

[nvrdone]

I'm another one who has gotten some great ideas from you. all I can say is keep it up so others may follow.
I was thinking of using the same style tail light but mounted on the side of the stake pocket about where the stock lights mount.
Now you have me rethinking that idea.
If I go that route, I think I would mount the lights so the bottom of the lights are flush with the bottom of the pan and move the license plate up to match.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Nice work.
They will be hard for other drivers to see down low like that so go fast ALL THE TIME!
Haha

These will be led lights so fairly bright. I have an idea for a 3rd brake light, but not sure i'll do it. In reality these lights are only about 6" lower then the factory taillights.

Originally Posted by -Dan-

On here I get so few comments I sometimes wonder if people are paying attention, or even care.


I am absolutely paying attention to your talented work. It inspires me to get off my butt and keep my project motivated. If I respond to each of your posts, I would feel like a troll. I’m sure that I am not the only one who hides in the dark! Please keep posting your progress - I do keep up on it.

I do appreciate you and everyone following along. I enjoy sharing what I'm doing and hope that at least something I do inspires someone to do similar, or sparks an idea that they twist to make it their own. Thanks for the comments.

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I'm another one who has gotten some great ideas from you. all I can say is keep it up so others may follow.
I was thinking of using the same style tail light but mounted on the side of the stake pocket about where the stock lights mount.
Now you have me rethinking that idea.
If I go that route, I think I would mount the lights so the bottom of the lights are flush with the bottom of the pan and move the license plate up to match.

Again, I'm glad I'm able to inspire some. I toyed with the idea to mount them into the side pocket as well. But in my mind it just didn't work. I've seen it done, both good and bad ways. So in the end I just did this off the bottom of the rolled pan. This is the same as I did my my 32 Ford I had a few years ago.



I would like to have raised them up a little higher in the rolled pan, however the end of the frame is right there. I even had to notch the ends of the frame rails to get the buckets as high as they are now. But thats just due to them being centered in the space on each side of the curved area in the pan. If someone had a "normal" rolled pan and the lights were centered the frame wouldn't be an issue. One thing always affects the other.



Thanks again to everyone that is following along.

[dsraven]

your old ford looks awesome too.
on your box gap, will you also close in the vertical gap to match?
I like the idea of a third brake light, where would you put it though? I installed one in the roof of my 57. that look isn't for everybody though. I also looked at the top edge of the tailgate but that area can get beat up too easily. then I thought about the tailgaye latch area (not a stock gate so it has a handle in the middle), same deal.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

your old ford looks awesome too.
on your box gap, will you also close in the vertical gap to match?
I like the idea of a third brake light, where would you put it though? I installed one in the roof of my 57. that look isn't for everybody though. I also looked at the top edge of the tailgate but that area can get beat up too easily. then I thought about the tailgaye latch area (not a stock gate so it has a handle in the middle), same deal.

The side gap is tomorrow's project for sure. As for the 3rd brake light I am not exactly sure what I'm going to do. I want something that will flow and be mostly unobtrusive, and yet still be affective. I'm not sure how I'll do that yet. I want the functionality of a 3rd light, but the form is also a top priority.

[dsraven]

I have seen some placed below the back window above the box. Also seen some I side the truck at the top or bottom of the window. Maybe a trip to the wrecker would come up with a donor that would look ok.

[gsinon]

This has been one of those weeks where I spent many hours in the garage, and yet it doesn't appear that much happened. All this takes so much time.

I ended up getting off the bed for now. I can't do too much to fill the gap between the bed and the cab on the sides until I had installed the running boards and they weren't in yet. First I had to install the support arms for the running boards, then bolt the filler panel to the running boards. They then bolted on nicely. I'm still waiting for the rear fenders though. So I decided now was a good time to start fitting the nose and see how it all falls in place.

I got the rad support in along with the latch support panel and lower pan. Those both needed some trimming to fit around the new radiator. Then it was time for the hood and fender wells.



With the front fenders in place it was time for the running boards and bed filler panels. These are still loose waiting for the instalation of the rear fenders. They should be here by the middle of next week.



Once everything is fitted I will definitely be fixing all of this. I hate the gap between the bed and cab. I will also be extending the stake pocket down to the filler panel as well as extending the leading edge of the filler panel to follow the cab corner better.



With everything loosely bolted together...I was also able to get a giid view of how bad the hood and fender gaps are. I've got some work ahead of me here.






And lastly the chance to stand back and take it all in.....





One last thing. Since I track my hours I have decided to start posting up the hours involved and a complete running tally. Might be fun to watch and see what it all adds up to. Any guesses?


This all took 14 hours.
Subtotal is now 484.75 hours!

[nvrdone]

I don't think my calculator goes that high !! LOL

[big_dan]

I tracked my hours on a Falcon project I did years ago. Full strip to bare metal, nothing untouched. I stopped taking it around 800 hours!

Your front bed detail is outstanding, by the way. Eager to see how you work the running board gaps. Keep it up-

Dan

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I don't think my calculator goes that high !! LOL

I hear ya there.

Originally Posted by big_dan

I tracked my hours on a Falcon project I did years ago. Full strip to bare metal, nothing untouched. I stopped taking it around 800 hours!

Your front bed detail is outstanding, by the way. Eager to see how you work the running board gaps. Keep it up-

Dan

I have an app on my phone that allows me to punch in and out and also make notes for each time punch. I have found this really handy when doing side jobs for people. On my last big build I had just over 2000 hours into it from start to finish. I'm not expecting that here, but it will be high. I'm thankful that I can do all this and it is just my time. The only thing I will out source is the upholstery.

I'm also looking forward to how the bed details shape up. Once the rear fenders are on I will tackle that project.

[dsraven]

on your box vertical gaps, my 2015 silverado has "gap fillers" for that space. they have 2 sided tape holding them on. I realize the box is formed to go around the cab in my case but I wonder if something like that may stop the light from coming through the gap so the eye isn't drawn to that spot. just a thought once you get the gap nearly filled with steel the rest of the gap, possibly further back a bit from the steel filler, could be filled with something like that to stop the light coming through and appear completely filled in. if slightly further back from the steel part, and attached to the cab, it wouldn't need to touch the box so no paint scuffing by the rubber.
just a thought

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

on your box vertical gaps, my 2015 silverado has "gap fillers" for that space. they have 2 sided tape holding them on. I realize the box is formed to go around the cab in my case but I wonder if something like that may stop the light from coming through the gap so the eye isn't drawn to that spot. just a thought once you get the gap nearly filled with steel the rest of the gap, possibly further back a bit from the steel filler, could be filled with something like that to stop the light coming through and appear completely filled in. if slightly further back from the steel part, and attached to the cab, it wouldn't need to touch the box so no paint scuffing by the rubber.
just a thought

Not a bad idea. My F150 has a similar thing.

[gsinon]

In my last update I showed a picture of how the hood overlapped the hood a bit. I started thinking about that and what I was going to do. It occured to me that when I bolted the inner fender panels and outer I bolted them right up against the radiator support. This didn;t allow any real outward adjustments. So I loosened the boltd and was able to pull each side out about a 1/4" which made all the difference in the world. Having done that I was able to slide the new grill in place as well.


This leads me to a question. How have you all assembled the front end after paint? Piece by piece on the truck? Or as an assembly on the floor and then slide the entire thing in place? Getting all the holes to line up and move thngs around can lead to scratches that when painted I'm not going to want to deal with. Curious what others have done.




The rear fenders showed up yesterday, so I unboxed the passenger side and bolted it on. I had to loosen the running boards and take off the filler panel that goes from the bed to the running board. After some tweaking I was able to get all three parts lined up.





With that done I decided it was time to put it on the ground and look at the entire truck as a whole for the first time since November 2020 when I dismantled the whole truck to start the project.



While things fit ok, ok isn't enough for me. Some of these things are just the way GM made them, but I'm going to fix all the things I think they should have done. To start is how the running board ends before the front fender unlike the rear where it bolts directly to the fender.



I'm also not a fan the way the filler panel just ends rather than continuing the slope down under the cab.



I'm going to extend the stake pocket and roll it in to meet the filler panel.




These two are to show the fitment between the filler panel and rear fender as well as the running board and the rear fender. These will both be fixed.





Time tally:

7 hours
491.6 total



.

[gsinon]

Being excited and having it on the ground led to the decision to roll it outside so I could stand away from it and get a good view of the overall look and stance.

[youngrodder]

That stance is spot on. It looks really good. On my last painted 48 truck build I assembled the front end piece by piece. I didn't think it was realistic (for me) to assemble it on the floor then wrestle that heavy mass into place without scratching something.

It is looking great.

Marc

[Hey Dude]

From a body-man's point of view, I prefer to get everything fit perfect then when I have it disassembled I only paint the jambs. Then reassemble, fix any scratches in what was the final primer sand, "soft-mask" the jambs and paint the cab/front clip all at once. Especially if a high-metallic color is used. I can pick out vehicles that were painted apart vs painted as a whole at car shows(high metallic colors). Paint out of the same gallon can can be many different colors depending on conditions and how it is applied. Silvers and very light golds are the worst. The metallic particles can lay flat, on end or any variation in-between. Giving a different look at different angles.

Just my humble opinion...

It's more work and requires more painting skill but, a good painter can do it and it will look better.

[dsraven]

My opinion also. Some painters try to do really long stretches at once, like the whole length of the car. Having step side fenders or fenders like the AD trucks have would complicate that. Spraying at the same time but not attached to vehicle would possibly help.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

That stance is spot on. It looks really good. On my last painted 48 truck build I assembled the front end piece by piece. I didn't think it was realistic (for me) to assemble it on the floor then wrestle that heavy mass into place without scratching something.

It is looking great.

Marc

Thanks Marc. Getting the stance right can be a challenge, and can also make or break a hot rod. I was thrilled to get it on the ground and be happy with the outcome.

Originally Posted by Hey Dude

From a body-man's point of view, I prefer to get everything fit perfect then when I have it disassembled I only paint the jambs. Then reassemble, fix any scratches in what was the final primer sand, "soft-mask" the jambs and paint the cab/front clip all at once. Especially if a high-metallic color is used. I can pick out vehicles that were painted apart vs painted as a whole at car shows(high metallic colors). Paint out of the same gallon can can be many different colors depending on conditions and how it is applied. Silvers and very light golds are the worst. The metallic particles can lay flat, on end or any variation in-between. Giving a different look at different angles.

Just my humble opinion...

It's more work and requires more painting skill but, a good painter can do it and it will look better.

Originally Posted by dsraven

My opinion also. Some painters try to do really long stretches at once, like the whole length of the car. Having step side fenders or fenders like the AD trucks have would complicate that. Spraying at the same time but not attached to vehicle would possibly help.

I genuinely appreciate your opinions, and I am always open to suggestions. However I loathe tape lines in door jambs and paint everything in pieces. Well not everything, I wouldn't do a candy or graphics that way. But a simple tri-stage or a metallic/pearl color I would and do all day long. I am far from the best painter out there, like not even close, I know painters that make me look like a chump. However I do have some skills swinging a spray gun. It must work, I won Best Paint at the 2019 Detroit Autorama (800+) and two weeks later at the Cleveland Autorama (900+) car shows competing against the very best. This done with a car painted completely in pieces over a couple months.

I am a stickler for consistant air pressure settings, reduction and I paint everything in the oriantation they will be on the vehicle, meaning door standing upright and not laying down.

If by chance it isn't right when assembled, then I can sand it down and blow one even coat on the cab/nose and then reclear.


I hope that reply didn't come off as me being arrogant, I'm the least arrogant person you will ever meet.



.

[dsraven]

it does, however, mean you are now the go-to guy for ANY paint related questions. haha
good for you on the trophies. i won't tell anybody. lol.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Man that does look nice. Since you are tightening up all the contact point/gaps on the body, I have seen someone create a panel, well more like a winglet to close the cap between the front panel of the bed and the rear od the cab. Sort of where the bolts that attach the bed side to the front panel are. They contoured a flat panel that followed the edge of the cab, with about an 1/8-1/4 inch gap to the cab. It was subtle but got rid of that gap you can see from the side.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

No, they actually mean, you know what you are doing and do it well!!! That's not bragging!!!

I appreciate that. I am super proud of any awards, publicity or notoriety I have received in my career and or hobby. I try not to make it sound as if I am bragging about any of it.

Originally Posted by dsraven

it does, however, mean you are now the go-to guy for ANY paint related questions. haha
good for you on the trophies. i won't tell anybody. lol.

I'm always up to give paint advice. I worked for PPG as a training instructor up until 2020 when due to Covid they closed several training centers. I loved that job.

Originally Posted by GreasyLikeaBurger

Man that does look nice. Since you are tightening up all the contact point/gaps on the body, I have seen someone create a panel, well more like a winglet to close the cap between the front panel of the bed and the rear od the cab. Sort of where the bolts that attach the bed side to the front panel are. They contoured a flat panel that followed the edge of the cab, with about an 1/8-1/4 inch gap to the cab. It was subtle but got rid of that gap you can see from the side.

I guess there are many ways to get this done. Below is how I went about it this week. I didn;t get super crazy closing the cab to bed gap as this will be a driver and don;t want there to be any issues ever of them coming in contact due to chassis flex. Although I would like to think that boxing the frame and the X member it will have little flex now.


.

[gsinon]

It has been a couple weeks since my last post. I've been working on the truck here and there and also getting things done at home before going back to work next week.

In this update you will see how I installed the pop up fuel car and made a filler tube that connects to the tank.


Here are all the items used to do this. The pop up cap, a band clamp, a 2.25" mandrel bend, and some 2.25" fuel hose.



I had to cut this access for the fuel hose, and then installed the hose.






I made this little template of the contour of the cap to find the best location to weld it in the fender.







The reason for the band clamp is so I have an easy way to service the tank or remove the fender and not have that long of a tube and its weight hanging on the fender.



At first I just tacked them together.



Once I got the full tube routed as need the pieces were all tacked for a trial fit.



Happy with it I final welded the pirces together. Had to make sure everything was sealed with weld so no leaks.



Looking up you can see where things need to connect. I then tack welded the filler to the fender from the top also.




I then bolts everything together using the V band clamp prior to final welding. Once happy I finished welding the filler to the fender on the top side.

[gsinon]

I spent some time working on the gap between the cab and bed. I am only closing this as much as the top is from my earlier project. While it is only an inch I think it made a significant change.


Before....




I am using the same 1/8" rod as I did previously, here I am just mocking it up to get an idea of how it will look. In doing this I decided to heat up and then bend the bottm end to meet up with the filler panel.





This is what I ended up making. It is 1" wide. I welded the round stock to the leading edge as I did on the other panels at the top of the bed.




And here it is tacked into place.







Over all I really like how it cleaned up that gap. It's not drastic, but I think it is a big improvement overall. I still have to make the other side and get it tacked in place. Everything will get final welded when the bed comes off and is on a stand for easy access.


New labor subtotal.
7.17 hrs
502.55 total


.

[57FleetsideC4]

It looks really nice with the fuel filler where you put it. Lots of time fitting everything up. Steve

[-Dan-]

You make it all look so easy!

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 57FleetsideC4

It looks really nice with the fuel filler where you put it. Lots of time fitting everything up. Steve

Thanks. Measure 100 times and cut once, and still not right. Lol

Originally Posted by -Dan-

You make it all look so easy!

It's all smoke and mirrors! It really isn't that hard if you have some basic fabrication skills and the right tools.