Scott's '51 Build

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Scott2

jweb - nice truck and I love the color! Thanks for the reminder on Cibie's! I used those a lot years ago rally racing and going off-road as well. Great lights. I decided to send the gianormous LMC lights back and will order the Cibie's.

Thank all!

After 10 years the blue primer is going away. I'm sad to see it go but it's time for real paint. Now it will be 2017 Dodge Destroyer Grey.

For your LS thermostat housing you may want to look at this :
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Ga...BoCV1UQAvD_BwE

I used one like this pointed down, then I just needed a small 90 degree hose.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jweb

After 10 years the blue primer is going away. I'm sad to see it go but it's time for real paint. Now it will be 2017 Dodge Destroyer Grey.

For your LS thermostat housing you may want to look at this :
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Ga...BoCV1UQAvD_BwE




I used one like this pointed down, then I just needed a small 90 degree hose.

I tried a straight inlet first and spent a day trimming a hose and
it still didn’t fit. I think the angled version might work. Thanks!

[solidaxel]

I tried one of those Speedway housings and I was not able to get the standard thermostat that came with the engine to fit in the neck
I did not want to go to the 180* thermostat they sell so I could not use there swivel
Has anybody used one and had any luck?

[jocww]

Thanks for the pics I bought a tanks tank from summit on a demo it was 80 bucks so Im just trying to make that fit. I have my floor board one that it came with, I think that if I use stock manifolds they dump high enough where the brake pedal wont hit the 5 cylinder tube and will dump high enough that i can get a bend and go right by the booster, I am hoping that the heat wont damage the mc or booster though. Im using an 01 ls1/4l60e out of a z28 that was in a 71camaro so the oil pan fit like a glove, and hopefully his intake will too!

[jweb]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I tried one of those Speedway housings and I was not able to get the standard thermostat that came with the engine to fit in the neck
I did not want to go to the 180* thermostat they sell so I could not use there swivel
Has anybody used one and had any luck?

It's been a few years since I installed mine but I think this is what I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...stionsanswers/

If you look in the Q&A under the part description it says you need to use an 04+ 2 1/4" thermostat. I'm pretty sure that's what I did but it has been awhile.

[Scott2]

Updates as I grind my way to getting the truck running. Wiring is nearly done. I bought a kit from Rex at Affordable Street Rods. I was really nervous about wiring as I'd never done it but it was pretty straightforward. Wires were all marked very well, great instructions, and Rex is always available to resolve my confusion and explain things very patiently. I obviously have some wire cleanup and routing to take care of still.

You can see next to the fuse panel I have installed a Delco generic under dash pedal park brake. I used a Wilwood (probably Lokar) set of rear cables to hook up my inner e-brakes in the 9" rear and had Control Cables make me a custom front cable to connect the Delco to Wilwood stuff. Routed it out the floor thru a grommet and there's another set of holes and grommets letting it pass in and out of the wheel well and under the cab.

I installed a relay, the fan fuse, and the engine wiring harness fuse panel on the inner fender and routed the PCM and giant wire harness out into the wheel well. Traded my nasty dirty old alternator in for a clean rebuilt. Got my Cooling Components fan installed (left side of the third pic) and wired. Love the fan as it came with a very clean full shroud and seems to be a quality piece.

Also installed a set of Summit remote battery terminals low on the pass side firewall. My battery is in a drop box behind the pass side running board but good luck ever getting to it on the road. I made all my battery connections at the terminals.

Wired in and plumbed the trans cooler - went with a Derale like Mike on his '50. No pics as it's all buried underneath. Note to remember: there's a thermostat right at the top on the cooler that routes over the frame rail. This would have been a whole lot easier to wire before the cab was on...

I am just about done with the Vintage Air install as well. Got it installed earlier and the duct and wiring connections are now made. I painted the vent panels and installed them under the dash. Yes - I agonized over this for a while as I would prefer some vents that blended in better but this is what I have and I think it looks much better painted to match the dash.

[Scott2]

More - my TCI chassis came with 3/16" SS brake lines installed and the brake booster/master cylinder on the left frame rail. I swapped to a firewall setup and had to plumb up the new setup. I ended up buying a sweet Rigid 37 degree single flare tool and a roll of SS brake line from Eastwood. Worked great but a little pricey. The cool little SS brake line spacer clamps are from Kugel.

Followed FlySoCal's lead (thanks!) and sent my worn out door hinges off to Dr. J's Restoration Rx for a rebuild. I had him replace all the faceplates (tip of the day - not sure if they are available anywhere else - he tooled them up himself) as they were also beat. I tried to repair the old faceplates but that was brain damage as they are thin and way to hard to get right. The hinges now look great and just need painted so I can mount the doors.

I'm using the DBW gas pedal from a 2006 Silverado. It stuck out a little far so I cut a wedge, bent it and welded it back. Better now.

[jocww]

very nice, I like the wiring job.

[lower50's]

The electrical panel is nice. I like the remote battery terminals. Coming along nice. Do you have a part number for your flaring tool?

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by lower50's

The electrical panel is nice. I like the remote battery terminals. Coming along nice. Do you have a part number for your flaring tool?

Thanks! Here’s the flaring tool: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/37-De...Line,9067.html

I bought the same tool off eBay with free shipping.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Thanks! Here’s the flaring tool: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/37-De...Line,9067.html

I bought the same tool off eBay with free shipping.

Thanks Scott I have been looking for a good flaring tool. I will be ordering one soon.

[74project]

man your doing a great job...almost there!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 74project

man your doing a great job...almost there!

Thanks! How’s your truck doing?

[Scott2]

Update: With the wiring finally done I tried to start the engine but it would only fire and die. The short version is that I ended up getting the PCM checked and found the VATS was still there even after I had it reflashed with the harness rebuild. This local shop that checked it removed it again and I reinstalled the PCM. The engine fired immediately and ran until the fumes gassed me out of the garage!

https://youtu.be/hqQXh4AXnQ0


Then I worked on a few other things including finally getting the radiator hoses situated and filled the engine and radiator. Then I tried to start it again and now it turns over but doesn't fire or run. The setup is a 2006 LQ4/4L80e with a refreshed stock ECM. No mods except the new air inlet, Hooker cast headers with the first couple of feet of exhaust tube bolted on, no mufflers, and the O2 sensors that came with the engine are inserted in the exhaust pipes and connected to the harness.

Ck Engine light is on and I pulled the codes: P0036 P and P0056 P - both of which appear to be O2 sensor issues for each side, plus P0452 showed up and then disappeared which is Evap Emission System Pressure Sensor Low Input or Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor issues. With the swap there isn't this type of sensor any longer that I know of.

None of the O2 issues appear to prevent a start? Any thoughts?

[joedoh]

sounds goooood. I like your elephant trunk intake!

[74project]

its great.. thinking of selling and building another one...

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Update: With the wiring finally done I tried to start the engine but it would only fire and die. The short version is that I ended up getting the PCM checked and found the VATS was still there even after I had it reflashed with the harness rebuild. This local shop that checked it removed it again and I reinstalled the PCM. The engine fired immediately and ran until the fumes gassed me out of the garage!

https://youtu.be/hqQXh4AXnQ0


Then I worked on a few other things including finally getting the radiator hoses situated and filled the engine and radiator. Then I tried to start it again and now it turns over but doesn't fire or run. The setup is a 2006 LQ4/4L80e with a refreshed stock ECM. No mods except the new air inlet, Hooker cast headers with the first couple of feet of exhaust tube bolted on, no mufflers, and the O2 sensors that came with the engine are inserted in the exhaust pipes and connected to the harness.

Ck Engine light is on and I pulled the codes: P0036 P and P0056 P - both of which appear to be O2 sensor issues for each side, plus P0452 showed up and then disappeared which is Evap Emission System Pressure Sensor Low Input or Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor issues. With the swap there isn't this type of sensor any longer that I know of.

None of the O2 issues appear to prevent a start? Any thoughts?

OK - spent a while trying to sort this out and finally went back to basics. I check fuel pressure - good at 55, spark, checked the throttle body, and then went thru both fuse panels. Found a blown 20a fuse in the PCM setup. As I checked the remainder of the fuses in that panel (10) several came apart as I pulled them. I bought a replacement pack and they were much sturdier.

Motor started right up so all is good other than having no clue why the fuse went away other than maybe being a cheapass part.

[Scott2]

I never liked the way the 1951 lever door handles hung down and obviously there can be issues with the latches and the doors staying closed. Also prefer one piece windows and planned to upgrade to Altman latches. When I looked into the new latches I realized that you can no longer lock the drivers side with the Altman's from the inside and there isn't a stock lock on the outside.

So I did a bunch of research and finally went this path:

- '49 doors with one piece windows, door handle mounts reworked to use '52-'54 pushbutton handles by welding up the old handle holes, cutting new holes, and transplanting the handle reinforcements inside of the door
- Used the Altman latches for '52 - '54 doors to get the lever action latch that works with the pushbutton
- New '52 - '54 pushbutton handles with new lock cylinders for the pushbuttons so the doors will lock with a key
- also identified some actuators and a remote from Watsons StreetWorks that hook right up to the Altman latches if I want to add this feature later.

Since this approach eliminates the stock striker plate issues - you just use the Altman plate which works on all the '47 - '54 trucks as far as I know. Here's a couple of pics - let me know if any of this doesn't make sense the way I explained it.

First pic is the rotating handle action and pushbutton versions of the Altman latches. Next, a fellow truck guy in Colorado Springs had extra doors and let me cut the handle mount area out so I could get the reinforcements on the inside. Then a pic of the older style inner reinforcement that you have to remove. More pics next post.

[Scott2]

I used the cutouts from the later doors to trace the hole pattern on my old doors. New pushbutton handles installed with locks. No sagging handles and lockable doors! (yes the door needs adjusted)

[Scott2]

New subject: hood latch. I discovered that my hood had no front brace to mount the hood latching components. I went looking and found two that are slightly different but have no idea which is correct for my '51. Both match up to the Chevy hood bolt holes.

Anyone know which one to use? Thanks!

[joedoh]

the shorter one looks like it might have come from a 1 1/2 ton hood

[Scott2]

Time for an update. Got the truck running and driving, 1st drive is here: https://youtu.be/gHD6GUF6IhM

This was with open headers, it now has a full exhaust on it and its a little more civilized.

Brakes are driving me nuts. I have a POL master cylinder/vacuum canister mounted to the firewall and Wilwood GM disc brakes all around. I bench bled the mc, installed it and opened up the rr bleeder. Took forever (days) for fluid to get down the lines and start dribbling out. Since then I have bled the brakes several times. I am not getting air with the fluid when I open the bleeders. The pedal pumps up nice and firm, then when I start the engine the vacuum kicks in and the pedal goes most of the way to the floor. The truck will stop but slowly. I have bled a pint of fluid through the lines and it still acts this way. What am I missing/doing wrong?

Getting an alignment tomorrow - if I can't figure the brakes sorted out shortly I'll trailer it down there and have them look at the brakes too.

PS - I think every fitting on the mc leaked and even though I had plastic and a pile of towels and rags under it it dripped on my inner fender and wrecked the paint. It of course ran down the side and then spread along the inside flat edge of the inner fender so all that paint is gone. Crap.

[OutlawDrifter]

My brakes have been wonky on my setup also...at this point I'm ready to blame the proportioning block. Mine will stop quickly, just won't lock the brakes.

[8man]

I've been catching up on builds as time allows, and just got to yours. I like the work you've done. Thanks for posting this up. Also, some well thought out changes, like the doors and the E brake. Nice job.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Time for an update. Got the truck running and driving, 1st drive is here: https://youtu.be/gHD6GUF6IhM

This was with open headers, it now has a full exhaust on it and its a little more civilized.

Brakes are driving me nuts. I have a POL master cylinder/vacuum canister mounted to the firewall and Wilwood GM disc brakes all around. I bench bled the mc, installed it and opened up the rr bleeder. Took forever (days) for fluid to get down the lines and start dribbling out. Since then I have bled the brakes several times. I am not getting air with the fluid when I open the bleeders. The pedal pumps up nice and firm, then when I start the engine the vacuum kicks in and the pedal goes most of the way to the floor. The truck will stop but slowly. I have bled a pint of fluid through the lines and it still acts this way. What am I missing/doing wrong?

Getting an alignment tomorrow - if I can't figure the brakes sorted out shortly I'll trailer it down there and have them look at the brakes too.

PS - I think every fitting on the mc leaked and even though I had plastic and a pile of towels and rags under it it dripped on my inner fender and wrecked the paint. It of course ran down the side and then spread along the inside flat edge of the inner fender so all that paint is gone. Crap.

First you should check the booster push pin to master cylinder clearence, you can use this https://www.amazon.com/Power-Brake-B.../dp/B079QGXY55
Here's some good info on the clearance you should have: https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to...r-cylinder-gap

Also, test the check valve on the front of the booster. You should only be able to blow air through it one way. If you can blow through it both ways or not at all it's bad.