1963 C-10 in NC

[1963c-10]

Picked up an Eaton 12 bolt 8.875 truck 17 spine posi unit for the 63. The big block should like the upgrade a little better. Completely rebuilt and gone through professionally. Opted to just convert the factory rearend over swapping to a 30 spline unit. I have an extra 12 bolt 17 spline rear sitting here, so I like the extra parts factor for worse case scenerios. The Dana units made for the 17 spline rears are extremely hard to find parts for if ever from the couple of builders I've talk too, where as the Eaton units can still be rebuilt with avaliable parts. I've never done a conversion, but have seen lots of threads and have all the literature, watched a few shows and have the forum for backup questions, so I'm comtimplating doing the swap myself. Part of me is chicken too though with the amount of hp/torque with the big block and says let a pro do it....so stay tuned on that one.

[1963c-10]

anybody have an suggestions on an install kit? considering the eaton kit to keep it all the same manufacturer
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[1963c-10]

more parts added to the stash last night. picked up a brand new hurst mastershift & install kit for $100 shipped of evil bay....good deal as ive priced them for 300-400
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[markeb01]

Good for you. That really is a bargain.

[1963c-10]

yeah ive been looking at them for awhile, but just hadnt gotten to the point i was ready to pull the trigger on the full retail price. the guy i bought it from said he got it at a swap meet and planned to use it on a project and changed direction. other than some age to the box, its brand new. has all papers/stickers etc w/it.
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[TheBlueBomber]

Those poles really dont look that big. But WE know better!!!!

[1963c-10]

Haha....thanks blue bomber. I assure you the measurements and weight are correct. I set more of them than I care to count by hand and with the exception of the main poles of the driveway gate....I hope Im done setting them. The creosote burn from cutting into them still has my arms buring, as well as my neck, upper back and most of my face. Creasote is some wicked stuff. Here is a pic for size reference of the poles...im 6ft and 185lbs

[1963c-10]

I finally got around to installing an overflow bottle Sunday. I wanted something that looked original....so being that I relocated the washer bottle to the firewall after the heater conversion, I located an OEM wiper bottle/mount and decided to install it in the factory location, but being an overflow instead. Looks much cleaner in my opinion with wiper washer lines not being run everywhere across the frame or inner fenders.

[1963c-10]

Shifter and install kit showed up. I will mock up prior to sending the trans to the shop to be swapped into the new main case. This is a Hurst Master Shift 3.

[1963c-10]

Found the correct 4 speed column collar also so I won't have the attachment for the 3 speed shifter on the column. Figure it'll clean up the interior some. Might be minor, but I guess it all adds up in the end.

[1963c-10]

The OEM gas cap, painted the same color as the body from the factory and has the ribbed edge. (pics for Yelmer).

[1963c-10]

Last of the bellhousing mocked up. I have removed enough material in the clutch fork opening to allow use of the gasket (which I had to trim some) and full movement for the clutch fork. I need to repaint the bellhousing and order a new gasket as this one was already torn, but was ideal for mock up phase. I know the Novak kit recommends the newer style bellhousing due to the work involved in making this style of bellhousing work, but i now have a fully functioning unit designed around a bellhousing w/frame mounts instead of the trans mount. I did all the filing by hand and opened it up on all four sides, but concentrating on the upper and lower sills. More to follow....

For those interested.... HCRC-78 is the kit I used from Novak. It is the kit with the 7/8" slave cylinder. If you want/need the kit with the 3/4" slave cylinder, use kit # HCRC-34

[1963c-10]

Got the trans mocked up to the bellhousing this weekend. Working out the shifter and linkage now. Also got real lucky and a buddy came across another borg t-16 HD 3 speed transmission for me for $165 and it hasn't been installed since the rebuild 20 years ago. Took the side cover off and it looks brand new inside, so the price was right and I picked it up as a back up should I ever have an issue with the one I have. Pics to follow

[clemdaddy]

having some great progress... looks good.

[1963c-10]

slowly but surely......Ive got to make some time to put the truck up for a few weeks to knock out some of the bigger jobs....front end swap, disk brake swap, engine trans swap, posi swap in the rear end...

[1963c-10]

Heres some pictures of the trans & bellhousing mock up. Just shifter linkage to mock up now. The transmission is a borg warner t-16 HD 3 speed fully synchronized, date code May 29, 1967. It has the 9 bolt side cover. Gears as follows....2.41, 1.57, 1.00. I do have another t-16 that has the optional 2.86 1st gear, 1.57 and 1.00 if the 2.41 is too low.

[1963c-10]

The new grade 8 bolts, nuts & lock washers came in for the trans - bellhousing mount. 1 1/2" for the top two w/lock washers and 2" for the bottom two bolts. All are 1/2" coarse thread. Still working on the shifter mounting. Tried to get on the project last night but my uncle duties called and had to help my niece. Will attempt again tonight and more pics to follow

[1963c-10]

Heres a pic with the grade 8 trans/bellhousing bolts. I don't know if it really matters, and I've never really paid much attention to it, but does anyone know if the 2 bottom trans bolts should come through the bellhousing or through the trans? Basically, which side of the bellhousing are the nuts supposed to be on? The top two are threaded, but the bottom two are not.

[1963c-10]

Here you go perro...pulled of a c-60. Only real difference is the repops have a bunch of info cast on them. The oem hooks just have a casting number on them.

Included a pic of the repops that have all the casting numbers on the side.

[1963c-10]

Seems a lot of the larger trucks mounted them on the front bumpers also..

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Seems a lot of the larger trucks mounted them on the front bumpers also..

You've done a great job with your truck 63 c-10! I love it just the way it is! If you don't mind me asking....Were did you get the chevy badge that you mounted on the front of your hood? My guess was off a 1960 or 61??? After seeing that it gave me the idea of doing that, and if you still have the badge I would love to buy it from you. Thanks. T.J.

[1963c-10]

Hey T.J., Thanks for the compliments. The hood emblem was a 60-61 6cyl truck emblem. I got rid of it a few moths ago. It actually fit pretty good and looked decent on the truck. I wanted to use the hood jet, and it was just too much for the front of the truck. I can get a part # for you, and they are fairly easy emblems to find. The 60-61 v8 emblem is a little harder to find.

[1963c-10]

T.J., the part # is 3767009 for the I6 emblem, the big truck v8 emblem is 3768897 and the light duty v8 emblem is 3767009. I had all three at one point, but have gotten rid of all of them. Id put a listing up in the classifieds and you should be able to find one pretty easily.

[1963c-10]

Here is the truck at work this weekend. Moved 1200lbs of shingles to finish the carport which is 21 x 24ft. Also moved all the plywood and dragged the logs that I milled all this lumber out of using the 63. Another fine job done by the old 63!!

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Heres a pic with the grade 8 trans/bellhousing bolts. I don't know if it really matters, and I've never really paid much attention to it, but does anyone know if the 2 bottom trans bolts should come through the bellhousing or through the trans? Basically, which side of the bellhousing are the nuts supposed to be on? The top two are threaded, but the bottom two are not.

For what it's worth - the 1960 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual does not indicate which direction the lower bolts are installed. All it says under removing the transmission is:

1. Remove the upper bolts and install pins to support the weight of the transmission.
2. Disconnect all the other stuff.
3. Remove the lower capscrews.

Sorry that's no help, but i don't know of a better resource to check for that detail.