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#251 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
I hear ya morrie. Iam goin to go with the 750 for those exact reasons, it will be a double pumper ( no elec. choke with mechanical secondary). what balancer did you go with? all the ones I been looking at are in the $400 range ( dont know if there is anything cheaper that will work for street use)
Last edited by slammed57; 03-09-2020 at 01:31 PM. |
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#252 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Ishpeming, mi
Posts: 623
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Re: slammed 57
That the great thing about doing the work ourselves. If you don’t like how something turns out you can always change it!
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=780018 Jason’s 56 build |
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#253 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,141
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Re: slammed 57
Quote:
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#254 |
56 - autocross
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 1,121
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Re: slammed 57
Can you elaborate on what you did for the center section of your chassis? Maybe more pics? Prebent 2x4 - one end or both? Where did you get them? What about the hood flip? Did u use a kit or ?? Thanks.
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#255 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
I used a frame curve from weldersieries.com about $50 , and spiced them in, I bought 2 thinking i would need them but the angle was not as great as I thought it would be and used only one ,its really not hard to do ( sorry about the pic but there's limited space to get a full picture from underneath the truck) I did price out some pre bent 2x4's from art morison and it was $300 plus another $150 for shipping (due to its size) I even tried some of the metal shops around my area but bending 2x4 is not to common , tubing yes, but not 2x4 , as for the reverse hood I got it from NO LIMIT, those guys have it down, its around $400 you can build it your self but you would only save about $200 and a lot of time of trial and error(some things are worth buying in my opinion). hope this helps
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#256 |
56 - autocross
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 1,121
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Re: slammed 57
Thanks for the reply. Looks great - keep up the nice work.
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#257 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
brake master and booster is in, along with the front brake lines, also installed a rear sway bar, now I can finish up the rear brake lines
Last edited by slammed57; 03-14-2020 at 10:08 AM. |
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#258 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Killeen, Tx
Posts: 1,360
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Re: slammed 57
Can you take more picks of your brake lines from the master down? Did you mount your proportioning valve on the frame? Looking for ideas
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John Z 1962 Chevy C10 Stepside 62 Barnfind My build tread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=507513 |
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#259 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
Iam putting the prop valve on the floor board that angle up to the fire wall. (this pic is take from the driver side wheel well). easy to reach in and adjust , I will be putting a spacer between the prop valve and floor board to keep the knob from riding up to close to the floor board. also you see a union connection going to the front brakes. I needed to do ,for the inner aprons i made will hit the master cylinder when i try to and remove them, so I make a break away with the union and prop valve so i can remove the master a little easier. this nicopp is really nice to use... may not look the best but really nice to use.....Iam thinking about using it for fuel lines.....I would have destroyed stainless lines if i went with them lol
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#260 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,141
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Re: slammed 57
Quote:
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#261 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
geetin some done this past few weeks, Installed the fuel tank, fuel lines, electric fuel pump and filters, and fuel regulator and return line
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#262 |
Senior Member
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Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,773
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Re: slammed 57
clean work as always!
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 |
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#263 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Ishpeming, mi
Posts: 623
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Re: slammed 57
Looks great... making good progress!
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=780018 Jason’s 56 build |
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#264 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: ID
Posts: 663
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Re: slammed 57
Nice! I think we're about in the same spot on making progress. Hopefully doing my fuel plumbing next week.
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My museum of good intentions: 1957 3100 BBW restomod -- 1970 442 W30 |
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#265 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
Stripped the rear fenders over the weekend. I did so with a strip it disc, I was curious why the passenger side came out so different than the driver side, So I went over to the SPI forum. One said that he runs into that when a panel has very thin old paint on it (which this fender did) Iam guessin then sun bakes the oxidation in through out the years. I even hit some areas with a 80 grit disc with no change. I was told to blast it, SO I did and it came out great. Now time to get them in some SPI epoxy, I love that stuff!!
Last edited by slammed57; 05-11-2020 at 09:35 AM. |
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#266 | |
Registered User
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Location: Harrison, AR
Posts: 1,069
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Re: slammed 57
Quote:
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Keagan 68 SWB C-10 original 350 A/C 503 Mean Green |
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#267 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 581
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Re: slammed 57
nice work
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#268 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,039
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Re: slammed 57
I find when I blast stuff there is a profile left behind that is basically like miniature craters if magnified. I usually have to sand the panels or when I prime the high spots are still exposed. A body supply guy told me about it. He said when he blasts he sands before paint because otherwise the high spots can start to rust. He said it would be like priming a sheet of sandpaper, the low get paint but the highs would still be exposed. Depends on the grit of blast material you use I suppose. Anybody else sanding after blasting but before initial primer? Makes sense I guess. If you go to wipe the panel down before priming and you leave parts of the rag behind like lintel it is because the panel isn't smooth.
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#269 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
I did have 2 or 3 areas that I had to contend with
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#270 | |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
Quote:
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#271 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,141
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Re: slammed 57
Buddy, that's one hell of a fuel pump/filters. Very nice
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#272 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,141
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Re: slammed 57
After sandblasting on mine I used 80 grit and then 150 grit to smooth it down!!! I found scratches 80 grit made.
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#273 |
Senior Member
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Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
Thanks morrie. this pump is actully 2 pumps in one. its really a quiet race pump. one turns on to move the truck and the other one gets turned on when you stage at the line.....Iam not goin to drag racing this at all. and really for me running a carburator this is overkill. BUT I did get it for the reason one pump was to crap out on me some where I can hit the switch and turn the other one on. It wasnt cheap ,but cheaper than a tow truck bill if something was to happen.
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#274 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,141
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Re: slammed 57
Quote:
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#275 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: pembroke pines, fl
Posts: 700
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Re: slammed 57
if both pumps are running at the same time is 180 gph at 8 psi .... with only one pump on its 90gph at 8psi.......for the reason I had to go with a fuel regulator
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