My daily driver/beater : How I turned lemons in lemonade

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I'm digging the press brake kit!
What did that puppy set you back? I think I could build the whole setup in a pinch. That might be a nice winter project.
But if I can buy one pretty cheap it would be a nice add to the shop.

I ordered the kit without the backstop. I think it was 153 to my door with delivery. I agree, it is home-makable, but getting that upper die machined to a nice smooth bevel all the way across it's length is beyond what tools I have at my disposal. Plus, I really like Swag Offroad and am happy to support them. They have smart ideas for fabricating tools on a real working man's budget. Check out their plasma cutter circle tool and porta-band saw stand. Smart stuff.

Originally Posted by Stoney

Are you buying the press fully welded?

I got the broken down kit. I can do the welding myself, and they have tailored the unassembled kit to fit completely in a Flat Rate box to save shipping costs. Again, good smart folks over there who aren't trying to get rich and also understand that every dollar (including shipping) counts to the end consumer.

[SkinnyG]

Welding Tips & Tricks did one of those kits:

Welding Tips & Tricks - Swag brake

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I used poly too because they were easier to find vs the OE stuff. 1st choice now would be the spherical because they have even better density vs poly w/much better articulation capabilities.

Originally Posted by bluex

I didnt know about the spherical joints. I had planned on using enery suspension black ploy bushings (which I already have to). A few years ago you told me about beefing up the arms which I was also going to do. I had decided with those two mods they would be fine with my planned use of the truck, plus it made the kit more affordable. It wasnt until after I had my kit minus the tubular arms that I found out they didnt have everything ready to use factory arms on the square kit. I wanted the trailing arms for the better ride and handling, plus they will be fairly unique on a square. I'm not after a frame/rocker dragging truck just a better ride and the ability to get it really low at a show.

Not to hi-jack Kevin's thread, but here is a great (although pricey) option for stock trailing arm bushings that give the articulation needed for a good handling rear suspension.:
http://www.hotchkis.net/6372-c10-swi...g-upgrade.html

[Tx Firefighter]

Dialog is good. We all learn from it. Carry on.

The guys at work got a laugh out of it that I ordered Johnny Joints for my Billy Bars.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Not to hi-jack Kevin's thread, but here is a great (although pricey) option for stock trailing arm bushings that give the articulation needed for a good handling rear suspension.:

Yep... That's them.

[Tx Firefighter]

Well Travis got another moderate pile of my money just now. So far he's been good to deal with. I always shop for customer service and not price and he's been very accommodating with my learning curve on this stuff.

Ordered a bunch of fittings, steering stuff, air tank, and gauges. I guess I've got most of the suspesnion stuff bought now. As long as PB actually gets my crossmember out in the expected time I'll get this thing knocked out this winter and be driving it again first swap meet in February.

Y'all have seen me get all mental fussing over the details on some of my other trucks. This one is different. I'm going for big picture stance and overall look and won't be powdercoating my transmission housing or ordering custom screws for my gas filler (been there done both of those).

[Hankster]

Glad you've got most of it bought! I'm excited to see this thing layed out!

[tinydb84]

Travis has always been helpful to me. Him and AVS are always solid.

[zaccaglin]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

And finally, my wife made me a decal for the tailgate that describes the theme of this project.

Hey Kevin, would your wife be willing to make me one of those decals? I'll gladly PayPal enough to cover the vinyl, postage stamp and her time. Thanks.

[Tx Firefighter]

I stopped off the morning and picked up some steel. Where I buy, they sell for scrap prices, but what they have is what they have. You sometimes have to go by there several times until you can find exactly what you're looking for.

In this case I got a piece of 1/4" plate for the step notch parts, a piece of 16 gauge plate for various other things, and enough thick wall 2" tubing to do one of my two link bars. I'll have to start stopping in there periodically until I find another suitable piece. For the prices, its worth the hassle.



Today I've been working on the firewall to make some changes for tire clearance. Awhile back I had gotten a non AC setup, inside and out. Today I've been welding up the firewall and fitting the factory non AC setup. So far it looks good.

[rusty76]

I hope you post up pics and explain what you are doing on the AC deal. I'm hoping to delete mine in the future, which I will do but I'd like to see other routes you know.

[Tx Firefighter]

I know this build isn't supposed to start until September 1 but I accidentally picked away at some minor aspects of it while I'm waiting all of my Porterbuilt and other parts to arrive.

Yesterday and today I removed the factory AC system and replaced it with a non AC system that came out of a 75 model truck. Let me say up front, I did not spend any effort at vanity to make it all slick. I just made a template of what the firewall needed to be, cut it out of steel and spot welded it over the firewall area. It's sealed of course to be weatherproof, but there was no effort spent to butt weld it invisibly in place.





And, some of my parts are trickling in.

First, these things are ridiculous. There's no concerns at their strength on being used in my application. The shanks are 1.25" thread. Just ridiculous.



Notice the four flats machined into the bung. That's so they will fit inside a 2" square tube to be welded in place.

Also, I got some stuff from another vendor. I can't say their name on here for some reason. When you type their name it gets censored by the board software. I'm sure there's a reason for it, but I don't know what it is.



Regardless of whatever reason that their name is mud to this forum board, they did me exceptional. There was a hiccup with my order and he called me personally to discuss some work arounds, then modified my order, refunded my overpayment, and shipped it right after that. As good of service as I've ever gotten anywhere.

[Hankster]

Sweet, I like the AC set-up.

[rusty76]

I'll have to PM you some questions on your ac delete deal. I'm really curious about what you did. I know it seems trivial but I do have some questions. Killer work as usual.

[Tx Firefighter]

Let me see if I can offer more details that might help you.

First, the firewalls are different between the AC and non AC trucks.

What I did first was to remove the old AC heat system inside and out. It's entirely self contained except for a single brown wire that connects into the main truck harness behind the control head on the dash. There's a plug right there, just unplug it.

Then, I had the benefit of having an old section of firewall from a non AC truck. I initially figured I'd just splice it into my firewall, but it was rusty and warped and not really suitable. So, what I did was lay the old firewall piece on a piece of flat steel and trace the holes with a marker. Then for the outside edge, I made sure and make it enough oversize to cover unneeded holes from the old AC system.

The holes drilled in the new plate are spot weld locations.



I could have absolutely cut and fitted the new piece in place and butt welded it and slicked it out to look GM original, but for some reason, I just don't care. So I cut it oversize and spot welded it right over the top of the old firewall holes. I just made a cover plate like a Vintage Air system would supply or whatever.

Masked and painted with close match of rattle can. I did apply sealer around the edges of the plate before welding it in place, then ran a nice smooth bead around the edge afterward. I figure this truck not having fenderwells, weatherproof was paramount.



Then install the inner box and out box. I used a new heater core from O Reilly Auto Parts. There needs to be some form of seal between the black box and the firewall too. Originally it was some sort of strip caulk. I was going to go buy a new box of strip caulk till I saw it runs nearly thirty dollars. So I went to Walmart and bought a new tube of black silicone for my caulk gun instead. I just laid a fat bead of the black caulk in the groove around the outside box and bolted it in place. Ghetto, yes it is. But, there's no reason to ever have to remove it, so I figured sealed from leaking is sealed from leaking.



Then install the wiring and cables and control head. The wiring passes through the same hole in the firewall as the original AC wiring did. It all falls into place. Again, the heater harness is completely self contained as the AC setup was. All you have to do is plug in the brown wire into the truck wiring harness under the dash. No cutting or mods needed. The heater box fits exactly onto the defroster plenum as the AC box did. No mods or reason to change the defroster ducting. It's plug and play.



I did this because I don't have the scratch to spare to buy an aftermarket AC setup. And, you can drive a truck with no AC, but not one without a heater. When the weather is bad and the windows are icing up, you must have a defroster. This mod opened up a bunch of engine compartment room and hopefully tire clearance. The old AC system didn't work anyway. What I have found is that heat only systems blow much much harder than heat AC systems do. When I got finished with this swap, I turned the heater blower to high and slid the control to defrost and it blew a glove I had laying on the dash off onto the floor. It cranks the volume much better than the AC system ever did.

I don't feel much bond with this truck so my mentality on this build up is to get it done without spending undue time or money on little details. Like buying strip caulk when silicone from the caulk gun will do the same thing for 25 dollars less. And spot welding the new plate right over the firewall rather than getting into panel fitment and body work.

The last vehicle I built with this mentality was my 54 Chevy. I just cut aluminum block off panels for the firewall, screwed them in place and brush painted the entire thing with Rustoleum red oxide primer. I had more fun with that car than any other and it stopped traffic every time I drove it. Folks went crazy over it.



I had that car, all stock and bought a 78 Impala as a parts car, and took a week off work and built it. Mustang 2 front suspension, engine, trans, wiring, everything in a week. Man it was fun too. Ghetto sh1t, digging in coffee cans for screws and bolts, cutting up parts car wiring to get the right color and wire gauges I needed, and then I drove it daily for years. I drove that car 365 days per year all through EMT school, Paramedic school, Fire Academy, and through my rookie year here at the department. Something like 80k miles total. I had quit my job with the Post Office and was going to schools for a career change, so it was sink or swim. I had no income and driving something with a payment wasn't an option. It was a legit 18 miles per gallon car. 305 engine, 2 barrel, TH200 trans and 2.73 rearend. The stance and overall vibe is what made it so neat, not details and fit and finish. Underneath it was lackluster like this truck will wind up being. But, at 70 miles per hour in the fast lane, folks don't notice if you fussed over the details.

Cliff notes, I'm trying to have some good dirty fun here and not go all mental over details as y'all have seen me do on recent builds.

[Palf70Step]

Alway enjoy seeing your old 54. Very neat looking ride. I like how you are doing this truck. I am using the same mentality for my 64, so it is on the road more than in the shop for detail work.

[rusty76]

Thanks that really helped. I hope to do the same really. Your '54 was rad. I really dig a beater build and that's exactly the route I'll end up going on my '76. My objective is to build something I can drive and tool around in without a lot of fuss. I want it to look right and drive right, but not perfect. I'm not trying to be ghetto just obtainable really. I really do thank you for the time you took to explain everything. It really helps.

[Tx Firefighter]

My theme for this one is make it look radical, make is safe, make it solid, and make it reliable. Everything else can go out the window.

[lolife99]

I have a stupid 2-link question.
If you make your 2-link arms longer,... Won't you have less pinion angle change?
I know Porterbuilt moves his 73-87 4-link front mounts forward of the original front leaf spring hanger.
Couldn't you move your front leaf spring hanger forward, and make your 2-link bars as long as possible?
Especially since you are making them yourself?

Just thinking out loud here.

[Primered_69]

"I could have absolutely cut and fitted the new piece in place and butt welded it and slicked it out to look GM original, but for some reason, I just don't care."


I'm so happy you are building something for fun not to challenge yourself....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I have a stupid 2-link question.
If you make your 2-link arms longer,... Won't you have less pinion angle change?I know Porterbuilt moves his 73-87 4-link front mounts forward of the original front leaf spring hanger.
Couldn't you move your front leaf spring hanger forward, and make your 2-link bars as long as possible?
Especially since you are making them yourself?

Just thinking out loud here.

Simple answer.... Yes.

[Tx Firefighter]

Some of my parts are trickling in.

Last week Travis at a Pro Performance ran a one day sale on Dominator bags with free shipping too. So I got four 2600 bags. They arrived today. No pics, you've all seen airbags.

I also got my air management stuff in today too. I chose a different route than most. I am using a Little Larry's valve block. Its one solid aluminum valve unit that services all four channels of the system.

Four manual valves built into one billet unit.



A few features I like about it. One, it's completely rebuild able with common o rings. Two, its able to be modulated. If you want the system to work fast you push the valve wide open. If you want it to work slowly, you just barely throw the valve.

Plus, I'm as OCD as anyone and I really like the sanitary plumbing connections on the back of it.



And I like the exhaust port which I can run outside of the cab. I initially figured to go with the DLOE manual valves but this unit was very little more money and much more sanitary than four individual manual valves with various fittings to hook them all up in close quarters to each other.



Yes, I need to get one more fitting. The place I ordered from didn't have four in stock. I'll be doing one other thing a little different, and that is running 1/8" line from the valves to the gauges. Seems most everyone runs 1/4".

[Hankster]

Seems you've got this all figured out! I like that Little Larry set-up. Can't wait to see the truck laid out!

[Tx Firefighter]

Please don't take that impression. I have no clue about this stuff. Never done any air bag business before. I'm learning as I go.

I just liked that the valves were rebuild able with common tools and hardware store o rings. Plus I'm a neat freak and the connections on the back lend well to my phobias about messy looking installation work.

[Hankster]

Haha Alright, either way, seems like your doing good with the stuff.