It’s Just A Pickup

[nuke1]

OK OK, I must have gone stupid and blind. oh well. looks nice now.

[Bruce88]

More thinking than doing
Minor planning changes, pre/test fittings, and cleaning up for moving forward

Changed the plan to have the frame sandblasted instead of cleaning it up at home. Now just trying to figure out how to transport it down to the sandblaster?

Used a full small tank of propane and a scraper to remove most of the undercoating on the frame prepping/making it easier for sand blasting.

The Blazer stile fuel tank and trailer hitch are from Wes at Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts.

To save some time lying on my back under the truck fitting the fuel tank and drilling the holes for the hitch over my head I think it’s a perfect time with the frame upside down to do this task.

Decided not to use the nuts and bolts from the fuel tank kit and thanks to Wes for the tip to use a ¼ inch mounting strip between the tank and frame. The mounting strips and felt/tar paper used between the straps and tank do not come in the tank kit. Any peace of rubber a ¼ thick could be used like some old truck mud flaps I just happened to have some molding that would fit the bill.

Some different perspective pictures included, the frame is upside down and sitting on some sawhorses. Might want to keep this in mind when looking at the pictures to minimize any confusion.







Pre fitting should help and make the final installation of the parts easer in the end, I hope it does. Enjoy your build

[lyrikz]

I am borowing a huge trailer and its at my house now. I will have it for a day or two. Let me know and we can run it over to marysville... Need to know soon..

[stueber68]

Did you get the hitch from ECE?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by stueber68

Did you get the hitch from ECE?

I picked up the hitch from Classic Heartbeat and it has the part number and description tag shown above on it.

[steppside69]

Bruce88,
Love the build , soaking up this build like a sponge . Can't wait for more, Looks awesome
Eric

[Bruce88]

Just keeping busy when things are out
Thanks to lyrikz for giving me a hand getting the frame down to the sandblasters, should be ready to come home in a few days.

When I rebuilt the front suspension a few years back the center section was not accessible to paint with the engine and various parts in the way. The Hammerite paint I originally used held up pretty well on the suspension arms, springs, and drop spindles. Cleaned up the chipped areas and some tape to keep the paint off the rubber parts and zert fittings and gave it another complete coat of Hammerite.

The forward and aft lip areas seem to like to collect water and dirt with no place to go so I drilled some ½ holes to allow this area to drain and not collect as much dirt.





As long as I’m talking about suspension

When I rebuilt the front end I installed some 4 inch drop springs in the rear. I liked the ride height and it definitely was a less harsh ride than the stock springs. But the springs could not carry any load in the bed without sitting down on the frame rubber stops and the shock binding up at its minimum compression.

So to salve the problems, I’m planning on using some 49107 Gabriel Hijacker air adjustable shocks and relocating the shock mounts.

When the truck was all together I had taken some measurements of the shock and suspension travel. I’ve just taken all the measurements and generated a full scale picture to figure out how my modification would work. What you see below is a shrunk picture of what I came up with to fit into the forum (a GIF animation showing the difference between before and after the modification).

CPP (Classic Performance Products) has a shock mount relocator kit that does similar repositioning of the shock mounting holes.



The frame should be home soon and the painting of it will begin, enjoy your build

[my67chevytruck]

Bruce, great progress and writeup as always!

[SCOTI]

Bruce88, check this out....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359399

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Bruce88, check this out....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359399

I missed that post but looks like I stole that idea. Your presentation is very well done; I’ve heard of it being done but not seen any pictures and wanting to visualize it before I proceeded. Thanks for the additional information and ideas on how to accomplish the shock relocation.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

I missed that post but looks like I stole that idea.

Just one way of several to get from A to B....

[gopokes]

Bruce, Just like everyone else said, awesome write up!! I am just starting to do the repair to my cab, first time doing it. I just want to thank you for taking the time to document this stuff. I will be trying this with this with the cab still on the truck, don't have much space to work, but with the detail you have shown I think I can do it. Thanks for the motivation!!

[kyull67]

Very Nice!

[CHEMPOWR]

Thanks for the education!

[JJanzen]

Bruce,
Great read and great job on the project.....It's a joy you see someone who really cares not only about the outcome but the process as well.

Joel

[Bruce88]

It’s not really required for this build, it’s strong enough without modification
But to beef it up a little will not hurt

The rear suspension control arms/swing arms are strong enough for a street truck, but decided to beef them up a little. Approximately every 6 inches did a 1-1/2 inch weld on the top and bottom of the swing arms. If you don’t see the heat/color indication on the other side of the metal you probably have a cold weld that can look good but because it doesn’t have good penetration the weld will be weak and not have the strength needed.



Just got the frame back from the sandblasters with out getting any rain on it, that always a good thing. But the weather doesn’t look like it’s going to cooperate to paint the frame outside, so it looks like Ill be painting the forward half and then the aft half in the garage due to lack of room to do it all at once.



Getting close to the point in the build where things are going to be put together in final assembly. Now if the weather will cooperate and I can get some of the little parts cleaned and painted it might start looking like a truck again soon instead of a hole bunch of parts. Enjoy your build

[west9378]

Bruce very nice job on your truck, thank you for the inspiration.
West

[Bruce88]

The last few weeks been waiting for Mother Nature to cooperate a little
A few days have presented them selves to progress

Not being very knowledgeable about painting, probably one of my very weak points. Feeling like a novice alcomist trying to create gold for the first time, trying to fallow the instructions without some of the elements available or understanding the language completely. With that being said this is how I proceeded to paint my frame.

Without having a fully functional paint booth available and the cooler time of year with higher humidity levels I fell back to some basic standards I learned (I forget where) not to paint below 50 degrees or above 70 percent humidity (definitely not in the range recommended by the paint manufacture). Only time will tell if the paint job will last.

I used two (light to medium) coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator as a primer/sealer on the sandblasted frame and then 24 hours later two (light to medium) coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (Satin). It took 4, 14oz. cans of Encapsulator and 4, 14 oz. cans of the Chassis Black to do the frame and swing arms.

Just as a side note I painted the forward half of the frame then used the front end suspension to weight down the front end and lift the rear section for painting on another day. (The pictures are showing the later stage). Yes the nuts and bolts require painting and will be done later (smile).





Just got the rear end back from having it rebuilt with new bearings, seals, and gears changed to 3.42 (no it’s not a posi). I did luck out in that I didn’t have to replace the axles. One of the areas on a 12 bolt that has high mileage that might need attention is the axles; they are the inner race of the outer bearings and might need replacing due to wear or damage.

I used a can of Hammerite (black) to paint the rear end. Not all black paint is created the same and the Hammerite looks to be a different color depending on the light. In the first picture with sun light it looks silver and with the door closed and from the back side it looks charcoal. Just an oddity of Hammerite that I find interesting and different.



With a little time to kill, I thought I would try my hand at creating an animated avatar that reflects how the build is progressing. It is a little different just another way for me to enjoy my build

[jojo]

Thats some good work on your build. Always nice to see a good stepside build.

Thanks for writing your build thread with such precision and detail... Its a great read.

[frog trucker]

Chassis is lookin' great, Bruce! Thanks for the awesome thread . . . loads of neat tips!

[VA72C10]

Any recent progress?

By the way, I like the Avatar.

[Bruce88]

What was, What is, Imagining it complete
Not exactly a before and after pictures kind of an intermediate phase.

The brake system on the truck had been neglected for years and decided to replace the complete system to include stainless steel lines (some new and some remanufactured items)

Parts to be used
Master Cylinder --------- Coni-seal - MC250040 (new)
Proportioning Valve ----- Inline tube - VCT103 - (72 Front Disc Rear Drums)
Power Brake Booster ---- NAPA - NBB 5473709
R/H Caliper ------------- NAPA - CAL SE4586 (Remfd)
L/H Caliper ------------- NAPA - CAL SE4587 (Remfd)
R/H Wheel Cylinder ----- NAPA - UP 13388 (not shown)
L/H Wheel Cylinder ----- NAPA - UP 13387 (not shown)
SS Brake Line ---------- LMC - 34-5589 - (72 Shortbed PWR ½ ton)
Tube Union (QTY 3) ---- Edelmann - 123400
Tube Union Tee -------- Edelmann - 130333
(The front and rear brake hoses have not been decided on at this time, possibly custom length, due to the truck being lowered)

The Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve and Calipers have been painted with VHT Brake Caliper (Satin Black). Then baked in the oven at 250 degrees for 1 hour for final curing.

The Power Brake Booster and brackets where painted with VHT Roll Bar & Chassis (Satin Black).

(Note not all year power brake installations had the support/brace bars used, my 72 did)







Just look at the pile of (spaghetti) stainless steel lines that Ill be installing, no wonder minor tweaking/adjustments will be required to make it fit right (smile).



The frame and suspension should be back together soon and have it as a rolling chassis. And the routing/installation of tubing, brakes & some wiring will begin. I can see it in my mind and pictures will be coming (smile) enjoy your build.

[glimmertwin01]

sweet bruce

[VA72C10]

Very nice!

[Indyuke]

Wow! Just read through this and I'm impressed! Gives me some good ideas too. I like the use of the clecos. Brings back memories.