85 burb meets 6.0 lq4

[85burb]

The lines go down passenger side frame rail. The holly fuel line is also on that side. I will prob just turn it in its clamp. The pump i got is a holly branded as a summit. You can see it behind the gauge in the pic.

[68GMCCustom]

mild duration with more lift. should make good power down low.
more lift....you'd definitely need better springs..and maybe p-rods

[85burb]

How you think it will idle? I will be getting LS6 springs they have a max lift of .570. They should work right?

[68GMCCustom]

as long as they meet the spring pressure requirememnts...so many lbs seat pressure and so much when open. You'd think with a 111LSA it would have some lope...

[85burb]

The cam opens to 562 and the springs max lift is 570. I guess they match

[85burb]

Just ordered the bigger cam and bedtter springs then i was looking at getting. SD alos told me that it would be a wast of money to change the lifters sence they are roller lifters. So i did not order them. Also found out that brp makes swap headers for my truck but they are from 500-660. So i will be ordering me a set of Fbody headers maybe today.

[85burb]

Put order in for my f body headers too. 210 shipped to me for stailes steel with hardware. Now just need set of maniflods for back up.

[85burb]

Got cam and springs in mail today. Only took two days to get here. Am very impressed.

[68GMCCustom]

so what are the specs?

[85burb]

HT1 SDPC LSX Truck Cam
214/218 .555/.562 111lsa

The springs are good to .600 lift. A little higer presure then the .570 springs i was looking at. The duration on the cam is a little less then the GM hot cam. But they said it is a much better cam. Was even cheaper. But the springs were of corse twice as much as the other springs.

[68GMCCustom]

but I would feel better with .600 springs then the .570's. The .570's would be too close to the cam lift max for me....like .015/.008 vs .045/.038? I don't think they would have last as long as the PAC springs?

[85burb]

Well got the cam and springs installed today. Had to rent 3 jaw puller to get balancer off. After i fought that and won for a few mins everything went smooth. Was very scared for a min tho. Motor did not want to turn over at all. But i turned it back and forth a few times it came loose. After i got the cam and springs in i truned it over like 20 slow revs with the plugs out. Did not make any expensive noise or have any tight spots. The top of the valves did not even look like they were worn at all. The cam spun freely and all the pushrod ends looked great. Have to go back next week and check the rod lenght. Then i will back all the rockers off tell i get ready to install the motor. I have decided not to remove the heads. If there would have ben a thight spot after turning it over by hand few times i would have pulled them. Will spray some penetrating oil in cylinders next week and turn it over more just to make sure everthing is some what lubed.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

but I would feel better with .600 springs then the .570's. The .570's would be too close to the cam lift max for me....like .015/.008 vs .045/.038? I don't think they would have last as long as the PAC springs?

I went with the PAC springs as you can see. I did not want to feel bad when i got into higher rpm range. The pac ones have more pressure also. They are like .250 taller then old ones. I guess that is why they have more seat pressure? I know they are harder to compress then stock ones. Was a bit scared of my 20 doller spring compressor there for the first few springs.

[85burb]

Well i got my headers in today. I have to say they look better then i was expecting for 170. They have very thick flange and welds look pretty good. Next time i see my engine i will bolt them up with the intake and take pretend finished photo.

[GasBurner]

So very nice.

[68GMCCustom]

Looks nice...but the way the drivers side of those 4th gen f-body headers kicks out bugs me. Did you need the smog hookups?

[85burb]

No but the place that sells the headers does not sell them with out the tubes. The 6.0 does not have any smog or egr. Still trying to figure that one out my self. Intake has no hole for egr from the factory. I hope they work in my burb.

[68GMCCustom]

then you'll need to cap off those three inlets?

[85burb]

Ya. That is the only bad part. Found kit to block them off for like 30 bucks.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

Ya. That is the only bad part. Found kit to block them off for like 30 bucks.

If you're going to be welding on some collector flanges you might as well cut those tubes off and fill the holes with scrap from the tubes you removed.

Only take a little bit of time and will clean up the look a lot. It will save you the $30 for the block off plates too.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

If you're going to be welding on some collector flanges you might as well cut those tubes off and fill the holes with scrap from the tubes you removed.

Only take a little bit of time and will clean up the look a lot. It will save you the $30 for the block off plates too.

If i knew how to weld and had a welder i would try. I want to keep them in sellable shape as well. I am not sure if they are going to fit yet.

[85burb]

Also found out that the mounts i got will put my engine 1.25 inches forward. That is not going to work with my shifter linkages. So now i have to find mount plates that will keep it as close as possible to factory location any suggestions?

[68GMCCustom]

this is what I've run into and have gone through a few different scenario's. My sbc was on 6cyl mounts in the rear mounting holes...so coming up with a mounting solution that keeps the motor back that far has been an issue. I have the -1" plates from TransDapt...which is about what those give you?

[68GMCCustom]

uhhhh.....can't really tell

[85burb]

Here is a drawing...Not the best but it is pretty close to what the pic is supposed to look like. I not really sure if it can get closer then that on length. Here are a few more pics. All i have is a cell phone camera...