1968 Chevrolet SWB Stepside Restomod

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

That looks good! I'm jealous over the gas tank... On my list just haven't got there yet. How did it fit? Any problems?

The Boyd Welding EFI tank fit really nice, super easy instal, all I had to do was drill two holes in each tank bracket to match the ones in the frame from the factory and bolted it in.

[gdavis]

your work is diamite man. Gdavis

[502ms]

Looks like it is coming along well for you. Nice pieces
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Hey all;
I ordered a 20 circuit universal wiring harness from Speedway motors today.
I want to take a moment to talk about this wiring harness, for those of you that want to wire your truck or any other hotrod for that matter this harness can't be beat for the price.
Here is the part number; 91064027 and the link incase you want to check it out; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ess,42872.html

The fuel system parts I ordered came in and I wanted to highlight this Billet Aluminum EFI canister style fuel filter I bought, It is made by Aeromotive and can handle up to 200 PSI, the part number is; 12308, it is very very nice, check it out.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Hey all;
I ordered a 20 circuit universal wiring harness from Speedway motors today.
I want to take a moment to talk about this wiring harness, for those of you that want to wire your truck or any other hotrod for that matter this harness can't be beat for the price.
Here is the part number; 91064027 and the link incase you want to check it out; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ess,42872.html

The fuel system parts I ordered came in and I wanted to highlight this Billet Aluminum EFI canister style fuel filter I bought, It is made by Aeromotive and can handle up to 200 PSI, the part number is; 12308, it is very very nice, check it out.

I just got mt new speed way catolog in today and was looking at that same wiring harness. It will be a while untill I need it. Tell us how much trouble it is to wire from that harness.Gdavis

[Low Elco]

Great parts, can't wait to see it come together!
Posted via Mobile Device

[gdavis]

Hey Bryan what size fuel line did you run to the back to the tank? I am installing a new fuel pump along with new fuel lines this week. My pump will be a stock manual pump bolted to the block. Just wanted to know for I did not want to run one to large or to small. I also notice that you got a after market over flow tank. What is the length and size? I like it but again I don't want one to large or to small.
I am full of questions. I really like the fuel filter it looks real nice.

[Low Elco]

I think we used 3/8 on yeller. Tied it down with some adel clamps and just hosed it onto the factory system.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Hey all;
The 20 circuit wiring harness from Speedway came in yesterday.
The PCM comes back from programming today.
The PCM mounting bracket also gets delivered today.
I now have everything to complete the swap.
The final piece of the puzzle will be a driveshaft once I have installed the engine and transmission and can take the necessary measurements to have one cut down or made.
Since the weather is finally deciding to cooperate I should be able to go full blast again starting thursday, so barring any major unforseen problems it wont be long before I can drive this beast.
Lets just hope I can get properly motivated to work hard to get this done in a timely manner, because it always takes me some time to really get back into the swing of things after a long break like this one.
Wiring isn't one of my strong suits, I don't have alot of experience in extensive wiring jobs, so there will be a learning curve here and I will have to go slow to make sure I do it right, fortunately for me the engine, transmission, charging system, ignition system, fuel system, electric fans and cruise control are on the standalone harness so it operates independently from the rest of the truck wiring which takes some of the complexity out of it and reduces my chances of error which will speed things up.
There are still some little jobs I need to finish before final assembly like repairing a one inch section of the pinch weld between the windshield support and dash, painting the interior floor and things like that.
I also need to verify the work I have already completed to make sure things are properly torqued and things of that nature, before the first drive.

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Hey all;
I ordered my fuel line fittings and clips today.
I decided to use 3/8" to -6 AN Tube Nuts and run 3/8" steel lines for both my supply and return lines.
This will allow me to use a simple 37 degree flare on a steel line, and save a ton of money over a braded hose setup with the added bonus that it will be more robust over time.
It took me quite a bit of research and time to figure this out and hopefully this will save someone some time in the future.
Here are the fittings I used with links.

GM 3/8" female spring lock to male -6 AN. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640850
GM 5/16 female spring lock to male -6 AN. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640860
Tube Nut 3/8" to female -6 AN. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220633-2
Tube Sleeve 3/8" to -6 AN. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220634-2

Hey man, thanks for all the part #s any other tips for us on the plumbing side ?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Hey man, thanks for all the part #s any other tips for us on the plumbing side ?

I'm no expert here I'm mainly using common sense as a guide.
I decided to use aluminum instead of steel fuel line.
The best advice I can give is to eliminate all soft hose and run 100% hard line, that way you won't ever have to replace anything due to degradation.
The rule of thumb is to eliminate weak points, make the system as robust as possible to prevent failure.
Another rule to remember, 45 degree bends are preffered and have as few 90 degree bends as possible and never have two within 12" of each other.

[gdavis]

drive??? I did not know you were that far alone. The last picture of the truck was the tank. I guess I better in my self in gear.

[TchncnDen]

I used the same Speedway 20 circuit wiring harness with a self modified lsx engine harness so I thought I'd pass along some observations.

I mounted the fuse panel so the letters were right side up. Get over it and mount them upside down so the wiring bundle comes out the top. I'm might flip mine one of these days, but it won't be easy now that it's all wired up.

I think there are six circuits on a plug in pigtail that you probably won't need so don't even worry about them. Remember you'll have extra circuits anyway because things like the fuel pump will be on your standalone harness.

There is no reverse light wire in the Speedway harness. I used the third brake light wire since I don't have a third brake light. I wired the brake lights through the PCM. Wire the relay control with one side to ground and one side to the reverse PCM wire. Wire the third brake light (now reverse) wire to one side of the NO relay contacts and the other side of the NO contact to power.

Wire the neutral safety wire from the PCM to one side of a relay control and the other side of control to ground. Split the purple starter wire on both posts of the relay NO contacts.

If you can figure out where you are going to mount the PCM before you modify the harness, it will be easier to make it look clean that way.

Those are the main things I can think of for now, if you have any questions let me know.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by TchncnDen

I used the same Speedway 20 circuit wiring harness with a self modified lsx engine harness so I thought I'd pass along some observations.

I mounted the fuse panel so the letters were right side up. Get over it and mount them upside down so the wiring bundle comes out the top. I'm might flip mine one of these days, but it won't be easy now that it's all wired up.

I think there are six circuits on a plug in pigtail that you probably won't need so don't even worry about them. Remember you'll have extra circuits anyway because things like the fuel pump will be on your standalone harness.

There is no reverse light wire in the Speedway harness. I used the third brake light wire since I don't have a third brake light. I wired the brake lights through the PCM. Wire the relay control with one side to ground and one side to the reverse PCM wire. Wire the third brake light (now reverse) wire to one side of the NO relay contacts and the other side of the NO contact to power.

Wire the neutral safety wire from the PCM to one side of a relay control and the other side of control to ground. Split the purple starter wire on both posts of the relay NO contacts.

If you can figure out where you are going to mount the PCM before you modify the harness, it will be easier to make it look clean that way.

Those are the main things I can think of for now, if you have any questions let me know.

Thanks man I appreciate the advice, I will definately take you up on the offer if I need some help.

[gdavis]

How many circuits did you end up with? FMI For my information. I think I will order the 12 circut. A few guys say that had several open circuit left with the 18. Since I will be in a tight space the block will not be as large. What do you think?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

How many circuits did you end up with? FMI For my information. I think I will order the 12 circut. A few guys say that had several open circuit left with the 18. Since I will be in a tight space the block will not be as large. What do you think?

I haven't started on it yet, the thing is I have a standalone harness for my engine and transmission so I will have a lot more unused circuits than you will when it's finished, so I'm not sure my application will help you much when it comes to deciding how many circuits you will need.

[Low Elco]

Hey Brian- a little light reading for you. This guy has put ls's into all kinds of stuff and done show quality jobs on c-10's. Also a very nice man. He's ls1nova71 on our board, name is Eric.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Hey Brian- a little light reading for you. This guy has put ls's into all kinds of stuff and done show quality jobs on c-10's. Also a very nice man. He's ls1nova71 on our board, name is Eric.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html

Thanks man I appreciate it.

[TchncnDen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

How many circuits did you end up with? FMI For my information. I think I will order the 12 circut. A few guys say that had several open circuit left with the 18. Since I will be in a tight space the block will not be as large. What do you think?

Twelve circuits will probably be fine if you aren't adding things like power windows, seats and anything else you can think of. Also, like xeen said, if you're using a separate engine harness all of those circuits will be freed up from the main harness.

One other tip I forgot to mention is that the light wires to the rear of the truck are too short. I bought a cheap trailer wiring harness to extend them. The wires are the same color and if I ever need to remove the bed all I have to do is undo the trailer plug.

[Xeen]

Today was the big day.
I had Victor, Kyle and Lorean over to help.
It's almost in...It's almost in...Damn it doesn't fit!
The CPP 3" forward adapter that CPP recommended is about 1/8th of an inch too far forward, so I have to send them back and get a different adapter, so in about 10 days I will try this again.
Thanks again for the help and the stepside bed steps Vic.

[~Whitey~]

ah geeze.. what a tease man!!!

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

ah geeze.. what a tease man!!!

LOL! Imagine how I felt

[Low Elco]

Bummer.... hope it works out.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Bummer.... hope it works out.

I already know which adapter I need to get instead so it's all good, It's just frustrating when I talked to two different reps from CPP and they both swore up and down it would fit and then it doesn't.

[gdavis]

good luck my friend. It looks like you might have it together soon.