NJ Suburban

[zicc1835]

looking good ......

[HO455]

Nice work. You've come a long ways.

[pwdcougar]

Inside done with base. Clear going on tomorrow!

[pwdcougar]

It's been fun doing mechanical work for a change instead of body work! Drive shafts rebuilt with new universal joints. Also new transfer case output shaft seals and speedy sleeves.

[Average Joe]

Nice work sir!!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

It's been fun doing mechanical work for a change instead of body work! Drive shafts rebuilt with new universal joints. Also new transfer case output shaft seals and speedy sleeves.

I think I would rather do body work....

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I think I would rather do body work....

LockDoc

Leon I've been fighting with the quarters on the truck for over a year. Believe me this is a welcome change!

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Leon I've been fighting with the quarters on the truck for over a year. Believe me this is a welcome change!

Paul

If it has been that long I guess it would be...

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

If it has been that long I guess it would be...

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Sandblasted and painted the shift levers. The np205 transfer case shifter has bushings that aren't available anymore. After some research I made a "wet bolt" for the pivot shaft. I took out a 7/16 x 2 1/4" bolt that had lots of rust. The bolt has a small hole drilled along it's length and then through the side with a grease zerk tapped into the head. This will allow the pivot to be greased. The local hardware store didn't have nylon washers so I made some from a plastic milk crate and a hole saw.

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Sandblasted and painted the shift levers. The np205 transfer case shifter has bushings that aren't available anymore. After some research I made a "wet bolt" for the pivot shaft. I took out a 7/16 x 2 1/4" bolt that had lots of rust. The bolt has a small hole drilled along it's length and then through the side with a grease zerk tapped into the head. This will allow the pivot to be greased. The local hardware store didn't have nylon washers so I made some from a plastic milk crate and a hole saw.

Paul

"Necessity, the mother of invention"....... Good job!

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Yikes it's been 7 months since I've updated the build thread. Now that the body is back on the frame and it's settled into position, the quarters are finally straight. I'm not sure what to do next. Originally I had planned on finishing up all the bodywork and paint the truck in my new pole barn. Then do the wiring and mechanical stuff. The town took 4 months to approve the plans, the guy doing site work is backed up and the pole barn company gave a March delivery/construction date. I wasn't going to do the mechanical work till the body was done. Below is a list of what I need to do. Just so I'm not staring at the truck for the next 8 months what mechanical work should I do? Any recommendations/suggestions are welcome.

Body:
Hood:
Strip, sand and do body work
Hang the doors
Install the core support
Sandblast door hinges

Mechanical
Brake booster and master
Wiring
Radiator
Hoses
Steering
Clutch linkage
Finish engine connections

Paul

[Killer Bee]

there you are!

[LockDoc]

-
I think I would start with the steering, then the clutch linkage, then the booster and master, then the radiator and hoses, then the wiring. I don't know what you have left as far as engine connections but if you have anything at the back of the block I would do that before installing the booster and master.....

LockDoc

[HO455]

One thing wish I had done at the stage you're at would have been to fabricate some mounting points for 2nd row shoulder harness seat belts.
I am going to take advantage of the impending repair work and convert my fuel tank to a non-vented gas cap. I am tired of the gas cap leaking when doing going around a tight right turn at speed with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel. Previously I installed a vent in the fuel tank sender and will route it to the driver's side and hook it to 72 Suburban style evap set up. Might be something to consider.
What are you planning for bumpers?
Have your rebuilt the door hinges?
The kick panel vent doors on mine needed new seals installed.
How is your heater core? It sure would be easier to replace with no front clip.
I don't remember if you replaced the spring shackles when you installed the new springs.

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by HO455

One thing wish I had done at the stage you're at would have been to fabricate some mounting points for 2nd row shoulder harness seat belts.
I am going to take advantage of the impending repair work and convert my fuel tank to a non-vented gas cap. I am tired of the gas cap leaking when doing going around a tight right turn at speed with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel. Previously I installed a vent in the fuel tank sender and will route it to the driver's side and hook it to 72 Suburban style evap set up. Might be something to consider.
What are you planning for bumpers?
Have your rebuilt the door hinges?
The kick panel vent doors on mine needed new seals installed.
How is your heater core? It sure would be easier to replace with no front clip.
I don't remember if you replaced the spring shackles when you installed the new springs.

Lots of good tips here thanks! I don't think I'll do the second row 3 point seatbelt brackets. I'm not sure I'll even put the second row seats in. Funny my Sub was my daily driver from the early 80's till 1997. Never had a problem with gas coming out of the gas cap! I have bumpers but haven't done anything with them yet. They could be sandblasted and primed. I'll probably go with white painted bumpers. I'll have to look up the rebuild kits for all the door hinges. Not sure I'll need to though. My 68 donor body was from a low mileage truck but I'll definitely check them out. A few months ago I rebuilt and detailed the heater box complete with new seals and a new heater core. One of the original 70 style kickpanel vents disappeared. Both 68 vents are in my pile of parts so I'll install them. Where did you find seals for them? Maybe that's something I can install too. The springs are the originals. Ride height is good but I should look up new shocks.

Originally the truck was non power drums on all four corners. The guy I sold it to converted to power drums. I need to source a replacement master and booster assembly. The one in it is pretty ratty.

Paul

[zicc1835]

Paul
thanks for the update... congrats on the new construction I like to check it out in the spring ...we did some major Reno last summer added a family room and a kitchen out to the pool I haven't done a darn thing to my trucks remember if you need a hand let me know. I do have a car trailor now seeing up a wench here shortly if you need help on relocating the Burb
Jess

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

Paul
thanks for the update... congrats on the new construction I like to check it out in the spring ...we did some major Reno last summer added a family room and a kitchen out to the pool I haven't done a darn thing to my trucks remember if you need a hand let me know. I do have a car trailor now seeing up a wench here shortly if you need help on relocating the Burb
Jess

Good to hear from you Jess and thanks!

[HO455]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Lots of good tips here thanks! I don't think I'll do the second row 3 point seatbelt brackets. I'm not sure I'll even put the second row seats in. Funny my Sub was my daily driver from the early 80's till 1997. Never had a problem with gas coming out of the gas cap! I have bumpers but haven't done anything with them yet. They could be sandblasted and primed. I'll probably go with white painted bumpers. I'll have to look up the rebuild kits for all the door hinges. Not sure I'll need to though. My 68 donor body was from a low mileage truck but I'll definitely check them out. A few months ago I rebuilt and detailed the heater box complete with new seals and a new heater core. One of the original 70 style kickpanel vents disappeared. Both 68 vents are in my pile of parts so I'll install them. Where did you find seals for them? Maybe that's something I can install too. The springs are the originals. Ride height is good but I should look up new shocks.

Originally the truck was non power drums on all four corners. The guy I sold it to converted to power drums. I need to source a replacement master and booster assembly. The one in it is pretty ratty.

Paul

Here is a link (below) to my post (#232) on the vent doors. After I did mine I found some threads on using different "free" material for the seal. If you want to save $5 do some searching.

Maybe consider just rebuilding the driver's door hinges. I didn't rebuild the hinges on my Burban but, after 30k miles the driver's door is starting to get loose. I can feel the door just starting to drag on the latch when I open the door. I may have pull the drivers door hinges over the winter and rebuild them.

I mentioned the shackles as they have quite an effect on the how the truck drives down the highway. Worn ones will give you that wandering down the road feeling. Many folks don't replace them when they do a front end rebuild and the truck never quite drives as it should. Don't ask how I know this.

Man oh man there's nothing better than white painted bumpers on a K model in my book! Looking forward to the end result.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=10

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by HO455

Here is a link (below) to my post (#232) on the vent doors. After I did mine I found some threads on using different "free" material for the seal. If you want to save $5 do some searching.



https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=10

Didn't see the seals on LMC till just now after putting in the order for the steering seals and bearings I need for the steering column. There is a set cheap on ebay but the guy wants 9 bucks to ship them! I'll put them on my list for my next LMC order.

[pwdcougar]

Picking away at things. Steering column installed and waiting to install the rebuilt master and booster. Of course the gold cad paint is in USPS limbo. Working on the drivers door now. The recessed screw holes for the door latch were pulled through so had to make new ones.

[pwdcougar]

It’s getting too cold to paint here in NJ so the suburban is getting some mechanical work done. Installed spark plug heat shields, master cylinder/brake booster, clutch linkage and working on the e brake. Was missing the bracket that holds the end of the front cable to the frame so I made one.

[richard2717]

Looking good Paul

[HO455]

Nice work! I love doing that kind of stuff.

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by HO455

Nice work! I love doing that kind of stuff.

Same here! It was a lot of fun and worked out perfectly.