S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Front can be a zero offset, 7 or 8 " wheel. If you runs wide tires in the rear, you will likely still need spacers. I run 1.25" spacers with a 17x8 wheel on a 4x4 diff. on my kids truck. The other option is a G body rear end. They fit really nicely.

[SkeeterBilt]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Front can be a zero offset, 7 or 8 " wheel. If you runs wide tires in the rear, you will likely still need spacers. I run 1.25" spacers with a 17x8 wheel on a 4x4 diff. on my kids truck. The other option is a G body rear end. They fit really nicely.

thanks sarge!!!
so a stock off-set up front with a 2inch spacer and in the a rear a stock off-set for the blazer rear with 1.25 spacer?

[skymangs]

Yes. That works out very nicely.

[SkeeterBilt]

thanks. i think im gonna order the crager series 69 wheels. then put some small white walls on it.

[skymangs]

Cool. That will look cool!

[steve aleve]

Ok so hopefully someone here has done what I am hoping to do. I have my cab on my s10 frame with my 5.3 Vortec set. My cab sits about .5 inches above the frame (pretty low) and I have a hydroboost out of an Astro that I am hoping to use... however, I want to do a frame mount to keep the firewall smooth and clean (like skymangs!!!! nice work on the 49 by the way!!! wow!) I got the cab back in place last night after working the firewall and tunnel for a bit and it seems like the frame is going to get in the way of the booster being down there... anyone dealt with this? Do I have to locate it on the firewall? I have seen this done on many trucks... just not an AD with an S10 frame.

[skymangs]

That hydro-boost is pretty slim, but you will likely need to move the master/booster away from the frame 2-3". Then mod your pedal pivot to match.

[steve aleve]

That's what I was thinking and after setting the cab on the frame last night, and because of the frame width, it looks like that will put the brake pedal pretty far right (towards the passenger side). Almost to the point of hitting my trans tunnel. No room for a gas pedal. Hmm. And there is no way to successfully mount the booster off axis of the pedal right?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by steve aleve

That's what I was thinking and after setting the cab on the frame last night, and because of the frame width, it looks like that will put the brake pedal pretty far right (towards the passenger side). Almost to the point of hitting my trans tunnel. No room for a gas pedal. Hmm. And there is no way to successfully mount the booster off axis of the pedal right?

If you really want a hidden booster, build a "under dash" setup. Or Speedway sells universal ones. I wasn't thinking during my earlier post... S10 chassis is going to be a darned tight fit. i was thinking stock chassis for some reason.

[steve aleve]

Thanks! That may be what I have to do!

[T-P Auto]

shymangs & steve;

What about useing a hydro boost system that works off the P/S.
Then you don't have the large vac booster.
Most of the hydo boost system were on like 78 chevy 1/2 ton with the funky diesel set up.
Even the 3/4 & 1 tons used the hydo boost system.
These system were about the size of a master cyl just longer.

Just my 2 penny worth.

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

That was what we were discussing T-P. By the time you made a bracket to bolt the booster/master, I dont think there would be much room left for exhaust.

[T-P Auto]

skymangs;

Is it going with heaters or stock exhaust?
Is there a possible way to set it forward(likt from the firewall) except drop it inside the frame:

Would it then clear the heater or exhaust?
Just thinking out loud?

T-P Auto
Tim

[steve aleve]

Thanks Skymangs and T-P!! I like the "out loud thinking"... that's when the best ideas happen. T-P, It's custom exhaust for the 5.3 and no heater. I think I can find room for the Hydroboost as long as it's ok that the booster rod is not directly inline with the brake pedal. I was thinking about possibly fabricating up a brake pedal with an arm similar to the stock brake pedal and having the inner end of the arm connect to the booster. Does this make sense? If so, any thoughts on if this will work? Or problems that may arise from this? I am uploading pics right now and I will post them.

[steve aleve]

Here is a picture of the hydroboost close to where I think it may go.



Here is a picture of the stock arm on the brake pedal that I am talking about



And here is a picture of where the brake pedal and arm may go? Above the frame right up against the bottom of the cab.

[Coldshot]

I'm thinking of this same problem down the road. That looks like it'd work good to me. Just make a heat shield incorporated into the mount.

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

pic #1
Where you have it setting in your pic;
You will have a (very) long rod from pedal to booster.
Pic #3 I see that the frame is "box" at that point. There is not enought room it that point.
Pic #1 What is the chance that you have room between the exhaust pipe n frame at the spot where you "OLD" trans mounted?
Looking at the #3 pic,you are setting (very) close to the frame with your body.
Have you mounted your fenders n radiator suport together on the cab?
You need to ck the fit of the hood to the cab n fenders before you set or weld it solid.
CK out my post(Frankenstine) where I had to raise the front of the cab up 1.5 ' to make the hood fit to the cab.
I just want to make sure that you have the right clearness to make everything fit like it should.
It looks like you have the cab forward as far as possible which is good.

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

You can make anything work, It just depends on how much time and energy you want to invest. I think your best bet is back where you have it, and run a long rod for the master cylinder. You'll likely have to support it somehow so it doesn't flex or bend during hard braking. The most important thing is going to be to keep those hoses away from the exhaust heat, and I would definitely run a power steering cooler on the low pressure side. On my 49, I used the stock pedal assembly. I welded the two arms together at the pivot, used the clutch pedal as my brake pedal, and used the brake bracket to offset it enough to reach the master cylinder. There are pics and description of how I did it on my build thread.

[skymangs]

Pic 2 looks like a good starting point. You may need to offset IOT get the bracket aligned where you need it. Good work my friend!

[steve aleve]

Coldshot, good call on the heat shield!

T-P I think I will brace the rod along the way so that it won't bend hopefully. I will have the fenders, hood and core support on this weekend and that will finalize the cab placement I am just trying to keep an eye on what I have ahead of me. Also, I've been keeping up with your build. Looking great!

Skymangs, I hadn't thought of a PS cooler but I think that's a great idea. especially because of how close I will be running to the exhaust. I'll look at your build again in depth to find the pics of your brake set up thanks!!

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

Just wante to let you know some of the things I had to work out the hard way(try n redo n try again) a little info can go alog ways.
Thanks for the comment on my build.

T-P Auto
Tim

[Garyhenrich]

I have a s10 - 48 Chevy, just getting it back on the road. When you guys are done setting the body on the frame and adjusting the radiator to hold up the front end, is the front of the front fenders the same distance off the ground as the rear part of the front fender? My front is about an inch lower, I'm thinking I may need to move it up a bit. Hood fit seems about the same either way.
Posted via Mobile Device

[skymangs]

The front of the fender should be higher than the rear. I'll do some measuring when I get down to the shop today to verify.

[Coldshot]

Steve have you thought of making a sleeve for the rod to make it stronger? Get a pipe with the thickest wall you can find that will slide over the rod. That should prevent it from flexing I think

[steve aleve]

That's a good idea. It seems to me that if it is done right, you should be able to mount it pretty far back and still be ok.