49 GMC Five Window

[57tailgater]

Hopefully I am not confused by your post about the latches, but did you get the Altman latches installed? Curious to see what you came up with.

[e015475]

"i was in phx over the last week but too busy to do much. I thought about popping in on you"

I wish you would have. Still noodling what do do with the airbag setup. My regulator idea isn't working out so well. On big bumps I can hear backflow through them. I bought some manual valves from AirJax and I'm going to replumb the system this fall to take the regulators out and put the manual valves in.

[e015475]

"..........did you get the Altman latches installed"

No, but I've been thinking about it a lot.

I have the passenger door apart and I should put them in. The problem is that I'd like to get to the upholsterer this fall and I'm not sure I want to start a science project with the Altmans

I'd already installed bear-claw latches in the truck when the body work was being done, and I removed all the screw holes that held the stock latches in. (The problem with the latches that I put in is that they rely on a bell crank at the bottom of the door to connect the lever to the latches, and it isn't very robust.) The Altman is a direct connection from the handle to the latch so it solves that issue)

The paper pattern they give you to cut your doors with the Altman latches is indexed to the factory screw holes, but I don't have any. I'm not even sure that the Altman's might not fit the existing door, but it's going to be several days of head-scratching to figure it all out. That 'scabbed-on' Altman mounting plate sure is ugly! I'd like something that looks better.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by e015475

"i was in phx over the last week but too busy to do much. I thought about popping in on you"

I wish you would have. Still noodling what do do with the airbag setup. My regulator idea isn't working out so well. On big bumps I can hear backflow through them. I bought some manual valves from AirJax and I'm going to replumb the system this fall to take the regulators out and put the manual valves in.

I wish i would have too, but by the time monday rolled around I was wiped out.

[57tailgater]

Originally Posted by e015475

"..........did you get the Altman latches installed"

No, but I've been thinking about it a lot.

I understand completely. I have looked at their kits for mine ('57) and just not sure. I'd like to go with the bear claw for peace of mind as I have had the stock one let loose a few times. But thinking there might be a better way but I too am not ready for another science project at this time.

[e015475]

Well, I did the unimaginable - I took my baby to a pro mechanic to see if they could tell me what the squeal coming from my engine was.

I'd probably spent $500 replacing all the accessories and parts on the accessory drive, but it wasn't anything external on the engine. I'd hooked my catch can to manifold pressure and the crankcase was seeing full engine vacuum. The result was that the lifters at the end of the galley were starving for oil and squealing after the truck had warmed up.

The bone-head mistake- should have vented it upstream of the throttle - but on the bright side, I now have a complete inventory of spare accessories.



The '49 is now resting comfortably at home. Weather is perfect and looking forward to summer driving.



Trying to finish up the installation of the headliner. Says on the box that this Kilmat stuff is made in Russia! 65% coverage gets you about 95% of possible effectiveness, so that's what I'm doing. (still have to roll it down)



I have some closed cell foam to go over the Kilmat for insulation. This came as off-cuts out of a GM plant where it was used for insulation. Each piece is about 2 square feet. Planning on the Kilmat + foam on the floors and firewall too.



Weather is just now getting nice to work in the shop, and I spent a good chunk of winter overhauling my tool boxes for spring. I had a local shop cut some tool organizers out of foam I bought at HF. Most of my tools are dogs-and-cats, but at least I know where to find them.



I bought about 100-150 of these little plastic boxes to help get organized. Since I moved to the hinterlands I can't just jump in the car and get what I want any more so I have to inventory more myself. Here's my soldering drawer - I did 12 tool
drawers in foam and another 6 or so in Schaller boxes over the winter.



I spent a couple days last fall trying to align my hood and fenders. I can't get the hood to lie flat on the cowl and it got much worse when I added gas struts to the hood. This is as close to the cab as I can get the hood.




I think my hood hinges are shot, but that doesn't seem to be the only issue.
I measured the gap from the bottom of the cab to the running boards and it appears my cab needs to be shimmed up. My favorite measuring tools - sockets and paint sticks.



The cab tilts back about 3/8" and lists to the passenger side about the same. Anybody have any suggestions for how to shim the cab?

[8man]

The truck looks great! Enjoy it.

[joedoh]

i feel like, if you came over to work in my shop, you might be filled with terrible dread and sadness. I admire people who can keep their shops clean enough for a dinner party. or to use as a spare bedroom.

the gas struts all seem to do that!

[dsraven]

nice jo on the tool organization. my shop and toolbox is pretty organized compared to some, but nothing like that.
the following is running on the assumption that the frame is straight, square and not sagged
for the cab problem, I would set the truck on stands and level the frame (not the body) front to rear and side to side. that takes any tire and suspension issues out of the equation. then check the condition of the cab mounts and body metal around the mounts to ensure all is good there. while under the truck you might as well check all the body mounts, rad mounts etc. take some dimensions from frame to cab at all 4 corners of the cab, document them as you go and compare them to see if there are discrepancies. check the dimensions from the cab to the frame-side to side- as well to ensure the body is sitting on the frame squarely. get a level on the cab and see if the cab is level or not. put the level on sheet metal not carpet etc. pick a spot that is supposed to be level with the frame-check the factory assembly manual for actual dimensions on these spots and compare with what you are coming up with. these checks should give the tell whether the cab is actually out of whack compared to the frame or if your "listing to one side" is due to something else like tires or suspension issues.

[rnrdthefox]

I really like your attention to detail (including your toolbox!)

Were the matts in your toolbox laser cut? If so, who did it?

I like your wheels also. What brand?

thanks
Renard

[dsraven]

on your cab, do you have the shackle style rear cab mounts?
some tape on the edges of the painted panels will help keep things from getting scratched if/when you decide to move/replace/shim cab or body mounts

[e015475]

"i feel like, if you came over to work in my shop, you might be filled with terrible dread and sadness. I admire people who can keep their shops clean enough for a dinner party. or to use as a spare bedroom."

"my shop and toolbox is pretty organized compared to some, but nothing like that."

I'm pretty much a slob, but as I 'age out' I seem to be developing some OCD tendencies. Lately I've gotten interested in "Swedish Death Cleaning" for my shop and office. A few old coots gave me their tools when I was young and couldn't afford anything, and I'm hoping one of the grandkids or someone else might enjoy mine. A little tool control keeps the frustration of lost tools to a minimum too.

Bought a 26" HF box to add to the others before they obsolete them for the series 3


Hardware storage in BF Arizona. Thank goodness for McMaster Carr


dsraven - thanks for the excellent suggestions,

I took a clue from one of joedoh's posts where he suggested a visual check on how parallel the cab was to the running boards before trying to tackle a hood alignment. I think that's the tip of the iceberg.

I leveled out my four-post lift at a comfortable working height in preparation for a check of the frame and cab from underneath.

I have some wooden jigs for the lift that hold the truck frame at the correct ride height and take the suspension out of the equation.

I bought this truck as a project and the frame was bare but powder-coated. I have to admit I only did some basic checks to see if it was straight. Getting the doors and hood to all align looks like my big project this summer.

[dsraven]

Yeah. You probably need to check the manual first, to see if the cab to frame space is correct. Then do some dimensions to see what you actually have.

[e015475]

Were the matts in your toolbox laser cut? If so, who did it?

They were cut at a local print shop called 'Allegra' on a CO2 Yeti laser. I believe Allegra is a franchised print shop.

I did it out of the .5" thick HF foam they sell for shop floor padding - about $2.50 a drawer for the foam and $10-12 for each board. He charges me a $25 setup fee no matter how many I cut. Last order was for 16 boards. Here's the proof-of-concept board I did for taps and dies (did this one first cause I was so tired of digging out taps and taking them over to the lighted magnifying glass to see what size they were)-



If you're interested in a really good time-suck project, I did a short writeup and posted it on garagejournal.com-

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...#post-10016759

I like your wheels also. What brand?

They are "Boss" wheels. Chinesium, I imagine. 18x8 and 18x10

on your cab, do you have the shackle style rear cab mounts?

Yes, I do. I put all new bushings in them before installing, but didn't check the cab height.

My first impulse is to make some new links for the shackles to raise it up (assuming everything else is straight enough in the chassis) Shackles seem kind of horse-and-buggy-ish though, and a little more torsional rigidity in the chassis wouldn't hurt.

I see that lsfab makes a bracket to replace the shackle system, but yikes! $350! https://ls-fab.com/47-54-chevy-compo...c-chevy-truck/

Might be time to exercise my CAD (cardboard aided design) skills and fab one up. Better yet, do a real drawing and try out send-cut-send.

https://sendcutsend.com/

I feel a "science project" coming on.

[dsraven]

square tubing makes a great start for brackets like that. two corners can be sliced easily with a zip disc and then a bend area can be relieved to leave a short section or several short sections of steel still connected along the bend line. that makes the bend line easy to bend and then when it is all the way you like the relieved sections can be welded to create a strong part again. you could look at energy suspension's site for some urethane bushings that will support the weight of the cab but allow for some movement without allowing so much that the body parts rub when the body flexes. welders series also has a lot of brackets and doo dads to look through and possibly source something that would work. a Canadian company so the USD goes further
google 67-72 chev rear cab frame mounting bracket for an idea or possibly an already made up bracket for that era could be sourced that may work for you. some rubber or urethane body mounts from a newer truck may also work with that style of bracket. check all the body mounts, as suggested earlier, because they all work together on the cab and front end sheet metal so as not to cause one area to flex more than another area as this could lead to cracks around sheet metal attachment bolts between panels, or parts rubbing and removing that expensive paint. all the parts are connected to form a single part, from the body's perspective.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by e015475

I see that lsfab makes a bracket to replace the shackle system, but yikes! $350! https://ls-fab.com/47-54-chevy-compo...c-chevy-truck/

Might be time to exercise my CAD (cardboard aided design) skills and fab one up. Better yet, do a real drawing and try out send-cut-send.

https://sendcutsend.com/

I feel a "science project" coming on.

i made some brackets for a guy on here, he never got back to me with how they worked though. I might need to message him.

[e015475]

All good suggestions - thanks.

Need to go rooting around the chassis first to see what's going on before I start fabing something up.

You mention chassis flex. I read on this forum that someone had the running board aprons hit the cab with some chassis flex, and he was using the shackles, not a hard mount on a stock frame (my repro aprons were close and I spent an afternoon clearancing them to the cab when I was doing bodywork) Makes me wonder if I hard mount them if it won't crinkle some sheet metal.

[nvrdone]

I had a cab to frame space problem. difference left to right was about 1/4". I fixed it cheap and easy. Stacked flat washers between where the shackle bolts to the floor and the floor and used a longer bolt. Its held up fine for many years and the gap between the running board and cab is good.

[57tailgater]

Originally Posted by e015475

Trying to finish up the installation of the headliner. Says on the box that this Kilmat stuff is made in Russia! 65% coverage gets you about 95% of possible effectiveness, so that's what I'm doing. (still have to roll it down)

How are you attaching that headliner to the roof and do you have any concerns of it coming loose? I have seen comments about heat from the sun potentially making it come loose.

[e015475]

The Kilmat headline is a peel and stick product. The aluminum skin is embossed with a pattern, and the instructions say to use a roller to push it onto the surface until the embossed pattern disappears.

I bought a wallpaper seam roller from the local big box store, but destroyed it within a few minutes of using it. I ordered a roller made with urethane and had roller bearings on the shaft - much better

I cleaned the inside of the roof with wax and grease remover a couple times before i installed the Kilmat. The inside of the cab had been blasted with glass and then a light seal coat of Southern Polyurethane's epoxy to seal it, but I didn't rough it up before I put the Kilmat over it.

The Arizona heat can b pretty brutal. We'll see how it holds up hanging upside down in the cab roof.

[e015475]

Little update - the weather here is sublime and spending as much time in the shop as I can.

Hood alignment- as many suggested, I started by leveling the cab. I don't know where my head was when I installed the cab on the chassis for the last time, but I sure didn't level it up. All the metal was good and the shackles were rebuilt so I decided I'd just shim it per the factory manual. Made these shims out of scrap and it took 1/8" on one side and 1/4" on the other side to get the cab parallel to the frame

I found a nice set of hinges on ebay, and just waiting for an able neighbor or friend to wander by to take the hood of so I can install them

Cab insulation - finished the Killmat and closed cell foam on the main floorboard of the cab. Looks like I'm only half way there with the 34 SF box I got from Killmat. I've driven it and it makes quite a difference.


Found a shift boot from a late 60s GM FWD transfer case works pretty good as a shift boot. Bezel of a Dodge with a 4 speed almost fits - a little more tweaking required yet,



Altman Latches - been dreading this project, but it looks like I got the driver's door working ok. This truck already had some bear claw latches with a Rube-Goldberg linkage of my own design that didn't work real well. The Altman door plate doesn't look great under the best of circumstances and was even worse than mine, so I decided to use the pop-out that was already there. The old bear claw was about 1.5" than the Altman. I had a stiff drink before I ground off that paint.


I cut up the Altman cover plate to make the patch panel for my door. Have not picked up a TIG torch for a few years and should go get some scraps to practice on before I tackle the door.


Handle is nice and straight. I'm going to disassemble the Altman latch and polish all the mating surfaces I can then grease it with Lubriplate. Hoping I don't need an additional spring to keep the handle straight


I guess I'm getting cranky in my old age. Every time I ask my wife to help me get the truck onto the lift, seems to result in some hurt feelings
. Added a little ATV winch to the lift and it works wonderfully.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by e015475

I guess I'm getting cranky in my old age. Every time I ask my wife to help me get the truck onto the lift, seems to result in some hurt feelings.

^^^ This reminds me of the T shirt I saw that says, "I'm sorry for everything I said while we were parking the RV"

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

^^^ This reminds me of the T shirt I saw that says, "I'm sorry for everything I said while we were parking the RV"

my personal favorite was my dad trying to teach mom to dock the ski boat ... dad said in jest "it's so easy a monkey could do it" ... mom said with a soul eating furry "well then get me a damn monkey!" we use mom's line all the time now

[e015475]

I managed to get the driver's door done with the Altman bear claws.

The door is fitting pretty well - might could go back just a scooch

This door had a bear claw latch of my own design in it already, so the Altman cover plate was pretty useless because it wouldn't fit the already modified door. The Altman kit wants the latch to be about 1.5" lower so I patched the old catch hole and cut another one. Used the Altman cover plate as a donor for the patch I welded in. The Altman contours are not very crisp but I'll mud the patch and it should look OK.


Got everything in and working - and the door still wouldn't close all the way and wouldn't make it past the first 'catch' on the bear claw. I pulled out the Sofseal weatherstrip and it now works great - time to order the low profile seal from Steele Rubber. (FWIW, the 3M double sided tape on the weatherstrip came off pretty easy after I brushed on some wax and grease remover and let it soak for a while)

I also wanted to get the inside linkage to follow the track in the door and not rub on the door card, so I modified the stock handle mechanism by trading it for the passenger part and modifying the Altman supplied linkage.


I had to modify the window channel track a little to get it to clear the Altman bear-claw, then I can fit a new regulator and window glass. The stainless inside trim is back from the polisher and I'm anxious to see how it looks installed.

[e015475]

Got the headliner installed and all the foam/Killmat installed, so it is off to Phoenix for AC install and a new interior. Installing an Old Air unit. Planning on hiding the hoses for heat and AC. Other than the engine diagnosis last spring, this is the first time I've had any outside work done on the truck. Old Air recommended an installer in Phoenix I'm going to use.

After the AC installed, it goes to the upholstery shop for seats, door cards, carpet and headliner.

With any luck it'll be (mostly) done early this spring.