norms 55 chevy pu build

[washington blue]

Thanks, I'm still not happy with where the engine is located. I am working on the firewall cuts, I am going to make them back far enough so I can have the engine as far back as possible for the most possible fan room.

[washington blue]

Finished making slightly deeper firewall cuts, about 2 inches on the pass side and 1 1/2 inch on the driver side just for good measure. I moved the engine back as far as the motor mounts bolted to the crossmember would allow. I want as much fan room as possible. I have a Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch variable speed fan form a 98 Lincoln. The top photo shows the engine moved forward with a small relief cut and the bottom photo shows the engine moved rearward as far as it can be . I can get my fingers between the firewall and head.

[washington blue]

Firewall is good I think, fan and radiator will need some work yet. I put the fender on to see how the core support bolt hole would line up with the fender bolt hole and, surprise surprise it lines up. A different radiator will probably be about 1 inch forward and I can trim an inch from the shroud. I will have to alter the shroud where the steering gearbox is tho, I will need to learn some plastic welding, or attach metal to plastic, or what exactly I'm not sure for that area.

[washington blue]

Spent the day taking the dash out, I guess my taste has changed in 30 years. Took a long time to drill out the spot welds, they must be harder than sheet metal. Dulled my bits a lot.

[washington blue]

Made a stop so I don't have to worry about my brake light switch ever getting damaged. I won't know how long the bolt needs to be until everything is set up. I got my brake mount ideas from Roger 55 when he did his build.

[washington blue]

The master cyl/pedal mount also rubbed the rubber on the vacuum booster and again thanks to Roger 55 I knew exactly what to do. It needed a little curve in it. This is a CPP unit and was about $345.

[washington blue]

I got my new dash clamped in place, it looks like it will be a nice fit. I also started mounting my master brake unit from CPP, that and the dash fit together very nicely. It is also snug against the firewall so marking and drilling will be a straightforward deal. The dashboard is from Dynacorn, it was about $465 and I am glad I got it as I really did not like the smooth look anymore. A person needs to be a little careful as it is slightly softer steel than 55 steel, and a misplaced blow from a hammer makes a mark.

[dsraven]

Nice you just cant have enough goce grips magnets and clamps can you?

[dsraven]

Sorry, vice grips.

[washington blue]

Love my vicegrips, I always work alone and they are my trusted helpers. :^)

[dsraven]

Yeah, me too. I have a selection from small to large, needle nose, round jaw, flat jaw, c blame and long c clamp. I use them all. Cleo fasteners are also great. Different diameters plus small c clamp style. I buy them at kms tools or online. I have several disc grinders as well that come in handy. El cheapo deluxe grinders make it easy to have grinders set up for different jobs so you dont spend time changing from wire wheel to cutting disc to course flap disc to fine flap disc etc. I have a few brand name ones as well in different sizes. Same for air die grinders. A course rotary burr, fine burr, pointed burr, sanding drum, wire brush, knotted wire brush, long shank, angled shank with roloc disc in 2 in and 3 inch, angles shank with 4inch stripping wheel, grinding stone, small cut off disc nylon wire wheel. Again, some el cheapo deluxe, a couple of quality units too. Grab and go makes quicker work.

[dsraven]

Some strong welders multi angled magnets are also really handy when working alone. Problem is they always seem to be bristling with those sharp little pieces of grinding that always find a home in your hand someplace when you move the magnets.

[washington blue]

And how does a person clean those triangle magnets? Mine seem to always be covered and wiping them just moves stuff around.

[dsraven]

I use compressed air. Wear a mask and eye protection too.

[washington blue]

I finished my power brake install and it is a pretty nice fit.

[washington blue]

Got my dash welded in and cleaned up. Needed some fine tuning here and there and now it looks pretty good. Spot welded in my E brake release hanger too.

[washington blue]

Made a floor mount for the steering column today, it will cover the oblong factory hole which leaves room for the shifter arm at the bottom of the column to fit through. I also got my cruise control arm on the turn signal, and the wires fished through, coming out where the turn signal wires come out. I taped my horn wire to the turn signal so I won't lose it, lol. I'm going to try to make a upper column hanger from the connecting rod.

[dsraven]

looks good. sometimes I wrap the shiny parts in saran a few wraps, just to keep them looking new while I mock up things. easily removed after. less scratches.

[washington blue]

That's a good idea, I scratched this column a little making stuff for it. Good thing is it is plain steel so I will paint it to match the interior and that will fix the scratches. I should wrap the shifter to protect it, I'll do that tomorrow.

[washington blue]

I got the floor plate bolted to the floor and I spot welded the nuts to the bottom side of the floor. I will clean the welds up when I have the cab off the next time. I made a simple upper support from a connecting rod out of a 283 Chevy. Everything seems to be going together pretty well so far. I stuck an old steering wheel I had on just to see how it fits compared to my daily drivers. This old wheel has a 4 inch dish which is a little much.

[dsraven]

con rod fits like a glove. nice.
ok, don't get me wrong here but, I notice the welds on the cab look like the areas were not cleaned up before welding. not saying they look bad or anything, just saying if you clean up both front and rear of the anticipated weld area you will likely get a better quality weld because the surface contaminants will be gone. welding draws in the contaminants from both sides of the steel and can cause issues, porosity etc. nice clean shiny steel always works better in my experience and also a nice sharp end on the mig wire. I usually always cut the wire off so the chisel tip of the cut wire strikes an arc right away. less sputtering etc. a flap disc or one of those strip it discs works great. wear safety glasses/shield for sure though. keep plugging away and posting pics. you're cruising along great.

[6DoF]

ooooo, i love the con-rod!

it's always amazing how much chop n fix is needed on custom parts. i have a new firewall pedal assembly for mine and not looking fwd to the spot weld drilling ... hopefully i don't need to cut it up though.

[dsraven]

Floor plate looks likea factory part. Nice skills there blue.

[washington blue]

Ds, you are 100% correct on the welds. the old rusty ones I did 30 years ago with a gas torch, I did not own a welder then. I did not clean those areas as I should have. The new welds, for example the circles I closed near the steering column and where I recessed the firewall I thoroughly cleaned on the side I welded on but not on the back side. I will do this in the future. I am learning about how the weld puddle sucks in contaminates even tho the front is clean. I have spent most of my years welding heavy stuff where I will V the openings then fill the V with weld and check the back side for penetration. I have been watching a guy on U tube called "Fitzee's Fabrications". He works on old cars in Canada and he is no nonsense, he has taught me a lot about light gauge metal work. gas pressure and wire speed are critical once the temp is set. I wish I had U tube 30 years ago. Thanks for the input everyone I appreciate it.

[washington blue]

6DoF, I hear you, I was worried about the spot welds too. I did it just the way the CPP instructions said to but,- - - a person can cheat. When removing the factory brace a 3 inch cut off wheel can be used and cut the factory brace just below the spot welds, cutting it up into little pieces to remove it, and clean it up closer and closer nibbling away a little at a time until you are content to leave just a little metal up under there. It cannot ever be seen except by you, and guarantees no drill through holes. Not saying this is what a person should do, just saying I could have done it that way - - dirty job tho, laying under the cutting. I had a couple holes to fill. I could see them by putting a bright light above the cowl vent then laying under the dash.