Wife's 48

[8man]

Thanks guys. Matt, the pictures helped.

I've looked at some other build threads for the S10 frame and I think I understand my dilemma. I'm going to follow Albert's build. Hussey used some V8 swap mounts and I'm going to try that. If I'm right, I should have about the same clearance to the radiator as you.

I'll post pictures once I get it in. Thanks again.

[8man]

This is all just so complicated, I give up...
IMG_0146 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I mean who in their right mind tries to rebuild these things!

Actually, cut the roof and back panel off the junker so if I need more patches when I get back to the 54. Cut what was left in 1/2 so I can load it in the back of the truck Monday and haul it to scrap so I can have more room in the shop.

I did get the bed assembled and the new square tubing cross sills cut and drilled. I have a friend coming over Tuesday and we are going to set the bed on the frame and see how it fits. I also pounded out some of the dents in the running boards. A lot of effort, but not a lot of show.

[dsraven]

consider this when placing the engine/trans.
drop a plumb bob to the floor and make some marks where the center of the rear frame is and then the center of the front frame. connect these marks with a straight line or laser or string-line etc. then when you get the engine in place drop the plumb bob again and mark the spot where the engine crank pulley center is and the trans output center is. this will keep the drive-line centered in the frame (parallel to the frame center line, which is not a square in some cases). when marking the drive line spots their centers should end up on a line drawn from the rear frame center to the front frame center. then you know the drive-line is parallel to the frame center-line. the same goes for the rear axle, it should be perpendicular to the frame so drop the plumb bob and do some geometry to figure that out. if the drive-line and the rear axle are not set up right then you will have a drive-line vibration. you shouldn't really go off the body because it is sitting on mounts and may not be straight with the frame center-line. the same theory can be used for the front end to keep it perpendicular to the frame center-line (and also centered).
just a few thoughts.

[Matt_50]

I have an extra roached out cab I cut pieces out like yours. The back and roof look like Swiss cheese lol

[8man]

I followed the instructions from Dsraven, and he even sent me some more that I used. Then I reverted to a build thread I saw on here for some more help. I looked at the mounts used by Hussey when he built Albert. So after some more head scratching, I did it, I got the Transdapt S10 V8 swap mounts.

This put the motor lower, which I've been told is good for handling. I now have about 3" between the oil pan and the crossmember. The engine is about 2.5" from the radiator and sits in front of the firewall about 3/4". In comparing pictures, I think my radiator is in about the right place.
IMG_0169 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The radiator bracket sits on the steering box adjustment screw. I've seen some others drill out that spot on the bracket, and if I do that I think it will work.
IMG_0170 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I read some hood fitment issues on here recently, so I thought I should put the hood on so I can see if the front clip is properly aligned BEFORE I drill the hole for the steering box adjustment screw. So I got the hood out and discovered this!
IMG_0172 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_0173 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, I have some more rust to get rid of, but that's not the subject of this story.

The bolt on the left in the last picture is the hood bolt like the two on the other side. However that bolt on the right not only has a smaller head, it is a larger bolt with course threads.

So is the bolt on the right the correct bolt for that location on the hood, or did a PO "fix" it to work? If it is not the correct bolt, does anyone know of a way to fix the over sized hole so it will hold the correct bolt?

Since I installed the cross members for the bed, I thought I should test fit it as well. So I've put the bed together and tomorrow I'm going to try to set it in place.
IMG_0174 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
With the bed in place to see how it sits, the cab and the front clip on, that leaves the hood to get a feel for the way the cab sits on the frame.

I just read the "Hood" question on the forum and I have a copy of the factory hood installation pages from the Photobucket posting. Thanks for that. So now I guess I'll have to get my beer drinking buddy to come over and help set the hood.

[joedoh]

thats definitely a rouge bolt, all 6 (4 hinge, 2 spring) should be shoulder bolts.

I dont want to dampen your enthusiasm on the bed floor, but with an s10 frame it usually depends on where you set the cab height how much you need to do to the bed floor. I set them up with skymangs shorter brackets and the floor needs raised about 3/4 inch.


great work, glad you are feeling better to get some stuff done!

[8man]

Thanks Joe. I'm still limping, but I'm getting around.

I'm going with the 6" cab mount, which is supposed to be a stock bed height. If not, I guess I'll be working on the bed sides some more.

My wife thinks this one should be more "stock" height, so we'll see once I get some more done.

I just put some mags on it today, off of one of the other clipped frames. 14" wheels on front and 15" on back. Not sure I like the staggered wheel thing. But I gotta decide if I'm going to check heights. I see more research in my future.

[joedoh]

yeah that should fit, or at least be close enough to trim a little!

I dont really like staggered wheel setups. especially ones that are wildly different sizes, like huge meat 20s on the rear and small tire 18s on the front. its a personal thing, just my opinion, and a dumb predisposition for someone who says dowhatchoolyke I know, but it puts me in mind of a steamroller. I dont even mind big and littles as much when the wheels are the same size, ironically.

[8man]

I have some issues and I need some guidance.

I mocked up the truck.
IMG_0177 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Then I took a shot of the rear wheels in the wheel well straight on.
IMG_0178 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Then the front.
IMG_0179 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I think the tires look pretty close to centered in the openings.

Then I checked the bed to cab fit.
IMG_0180 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
That's about 1.25" from the back of the cab to the front of the bed.

Is that a good clearance or should it be a little more?

Then I looked at the tailgate end.
IMG_0181 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I have not read about cutting the rear frame on the S10 frame, but if I did everything else right, it needs to be trimmed.

Has anyone else cut the rear frame to fit the truck?

I read the how to fit the hood instructions, so I started on that.
IMG_0183 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

On the driver's side, it's pretty close, BUT on the rider's side,
IMG_0184 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The rider's fender is back as far as it will go. I have about 1/4" gap between the hood and the cowl indent on both sides.

Any ideas?

[dsraven]

yeah, check to ensure the cab is parallel to the frame. i assume these parts were together on a truck at some point, not individually bought items from different trucks?
if the cab isn't square with the frame then you can still make the parts fit if they fit at one time on another truck, it just won't be in the middle of the frame at the front when you are done.
draw it out on paper and you will see how things can easily get outta whack if the cab isn't sitting on the frame parallel.

[8man]

Thanks. The hood, front fenders and cab all came from one truck. I was told it was driving, but that was a long time ago. The guy I bought it from bought in pieces from a guy who dissembled it to do a restoration. So the parts have been moved at least 3 times.

I looked at and measured that fender and it is very close to right. I'm beginning to think the hood may be the issue. It has pretty good gaps in the rear, but the rider's side seems to be up.

I put the top bar from a grill on the two fenders to see how it looked and it fits fine.

So next week when I can get back to it, I'll keep adding pieces to see if I can get it to line up. I may have to work on the hood some to see if I can move it around with a hammer and dolly, but I truly can't see or feel a dent, maybe a bow.

Now if I can just get an answer to the rear of the frame. That one has me really stumped.

[Matt_50]

I can't really tell but is the stepboard apron touching the cab?

[8man]

There is a gap, small one between the apron and the cab.

The running board is almost jamb up against the back of the front fender. Is that normal?

[Matt_50]

I was concerned mine wasn't close enough lol. Stock frame and this is what I have. I would need to double check front fender clearance but it is pretty close.

[8man]

Thank you, that helps. It'll get figured out, I'm just struggling right now.

[8man]

What is the distance between the back of the cab (middle) and the bed?

[NorCalGal]

The stock gap between the bed and cab is pretty big, I tightened mine up because I don’t like when you see them from the side with a big gap. If it makes you feel better I have spent a lot of time moving the body around until I thought it looked right. It helps to take a level and level your bed to your running boards and cab. It just takes awhile. My hood on one side had been stretched forward and the front roll of the fender bent in, check to make sure your L and R fender have the same profile.

[dsraven]

great advice from norcal, bolt the two fenders together and see if the outline is the same. I have done that with rear step side fenders and found quite a difference, they are def not all the same. if doing dimensions and using the fenders as reference then it is good to know they are at least close to the same.

[NorCalGal]

Robert, I cut my frame about 9 inches behind the center of the rear mount of the leaf spring. This of course is going to vary a little from truck to truck but it should give you a starting point. Keep at it, you’ll get it.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by 8man

So is the bolt on the right the correct bolt for that location on the hood, or did a PO "fix" it to work? If it is not the correct bolt, does anyone know of a way to fix the over sized hole so it will hold the correct bolt?

You can use a thread insert (go by many names), had to put one in a flywheel I stripped out. The cheaper version if you have taps is to weld up the nut hole you have now, drill, and retap to the correct size.

[8man]

Thanks everyone. Grandkids this weekend, so maybe Monday I can get back in the shop and see how I can apply what I've learned. Oh, they just went to bed and so am I!

[8man]

I put the hood latch assembly and the first grill bar on to see where I'm at on the hood fitment.
IMG_0192 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I'm afraid the rider's side front tip has been bent in a little. Then I looked at the fender fitment.
Riders side
IMG_0191 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Drivers side
IMG_0193 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

From all I've read I think those are ok gaps.
Then I test fit the running board on the drivers side.
IMG_0195 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_0196 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I have some work to do on the shield as it is rubbing the rear fender at the fender indent.

Then I spent all afternoon working on the radiator bracket, testing ideas on how to mount it. I finally settled in on welding the angles to the bracket and then bolting the angles to the frame. So I took the drivers inner and outer fender off again to get to the frame to drill the hole and tap it. Tomorrow I'll try to get the riders side done so I can weld the angles to the bracket.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by 8man

This is all just so complicated, I give up...I mean who in their right mind tries to rebuild these things!

Hahahaha - best quote ever!

[NorCalGal]

Gaps look good, looks like it all came together for you.

[mongocanfly]

Coming along Robert...who in there right mind is so true..!!