Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[SCOTI]

They aren't required w/no tank but they do help tie the floor & cab wall together for additional rigidity. You could always trim off excess like jrusher did to clean it up a bit.

[88Stanger]

Now i like that idea. I was a bit concerned with removing them and effecting how the floor rigidity would be. sometimes the simplest things can be so hard to see.

Originally Posted by jrusher

I just cut the bracket off where it starts to bend up on both my trucks . Was quick and easy and I kept the pieces if somebody wanted to use a stock tank again . Amp and sub boxes fit back there nicely

[jrusher]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Now i like that idea. I was a bit concerned with removing them and effecting how the floor rigidity would be. sometimes the simplest things can be so hard to see.

I was going to cap the end of that opening after cutting it but figure it’s out of sight and be easier to weld bracket back on if someone wanted to go back to factory tank. Highly unlikely but never know I hate hacking these trucks up if possible lol

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jrusher

I was going to cap the end of that opening after cutting it but figure it’s out of sight and be easier to weld bracket back on if someone wanted to go back to factory tank. Highly unlikely but never know I hate hacking these trucks up if possible lol

Or weld tabs for ECU mounting, speaker box, storage box, etc.....

[88Stanger]

Update:
additional pics and Pics of Headers being wrapped

Found a bit more rust in the driver side front panel, so patch panel on the way.
I also found alot of seam sealer on the inside which i have not found before, or at least that i know of. So i ordered seam sealer from Eastwood.

[88Stanger]

sorry about the stupid upside down pic

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Truck Update:
I had a set of Tri-Y headers 2.5" that i got couple years ago for my "69 C10. I thought, maybe they would fit the "66. Well they do! LOL So now i have the headers so that is not needed. Now i am looking at what to do for exhaust. Get a universal kit or try to take it to a shop and have it done. I am a bit different because i want side exhaust if possible, just before the rear tires. I have been looking at these flattened exhaust tips that i would maybe like to have. Suggestions here?

Update:
additional pics and Pics of Headers being wrapped

Header material? Mild steel & 409ss will not like the wrap as it somewhat seals condensation between it & the tube. The mild steel will rust. 409 will get funky. I'm not sure if 304/316ss wouldn't either.

The wrap helps but hurts. Know that going-in when using it.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Header material? Mild steel & 409ss will not like the wrap as it somewhat seals condensation between it & the tube. The mild steel will rust. 409 will get funky. I'm not sure if 304/316ss wouldn't either.

The wrap helps but hurts. Know that going-in when using it.

Thanks for the advice. The headers are SS and I do understand what can happen, but for the temp relief in the engine compartment, i am ok with that. On a daily driver i would be more concerned with it, but for this ride i am ok.

[88Stanger]

Powder Coated the "eyes" of the air cleaner

[88Stanger]

damnit

[88Stanger]

New Shed on the way! Too much storage that I want out of my Shop. Tried to get a Tuff Shed, HELL NO!!! What a waste of 3 months, countless phone calls with no answers, I told them to get lost, canceled my order and went with Old Hickory sheds. Exact same building at 1/2 the cost!! Let me state that again, 1/2 the cost!! and it will be delivered end of next week, 1st of next after that. 16' wide and 10' deep, large double doors and two windows. Storage loft and bench that Mom wants for her little hobbies.

[88Stanger]

Back to Truck stuff lol

So I removed the driver side lower door sill to replace it and typical rust under it. I am looking at bending some sheet metal to correct it. I have partial floor replacement panels, but not enough. My issue is i need to replace a small portion of the Driver side kick panel and floor board. So, I think i need to brace the door by welding in some bracing for all this work on the driver side. I was thinking of getting some small square tube and just weld it across the door opening towards the lower half, thoughts?

[SCOTI]

Bracing is rarely a bad idea.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Bracing is rarely a bad idea.

Thanks Scoti, i bought tubing yesterday just to be safe. makes it harder to move around with it, but better safe than sorry.

[88Stanger]

Well i just ordered the lower cab inner floor replacement panels, RH and LH. I could make the pieces from scrap, but I thought if I using all the others might as well use these too.

[88Stanger]

Yesterday I got the Cab Door sections from CaptainFab, and they are perfect for what I need. Could not say "Thank You" enough! This is just one of the awesome reasons this site is so cool, guys like CaptainFab, Scoti, Jrusher and others just to name a few who are more than willing to help others here out.
I owe alot of you!! Thanks again to you all!!

[88Stanger]

Note: I am taking my Mig Welder down to .025 wire from the .035 wire so that i can lower the heat for welding the panels in.

Question: The floor joints, the ones filled in with seam sealer. Can you just weld these up rather than use seam sealer? I asking because one of my issues is the floor to foot well seam is where i have an issue and new panels need to be inserted here. I thought, hell, just take 1 solid piece and install it over the seam. Hope that makes sense.
Is that ok?

[SCOTI]

The seams make it easier to piece together (repairs) but a solid piece will work as well.

The thinner/smaller wire will work better on the thinner metal. Play around w/some scrap old stuff & do the same on replacement/re-pop stuff when possible. It seems I tend to blow through replacement panels easier on the same settings where older sheet-metal survives the process.

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

New Shed on the way! Too much storage that I want out of my Shop. Tried to get a Tuff Shed, HELL NO!!! What a waste of 3 months, countless phone calls with no answers, I told them to get lost, canceled my order and went with Old Hickory sheds. Exact same building at 1/2 the cost!! Let me state that again, 1/2 the cost!! and it will be delivered end of next week, 1st of next after that. 16' wide and 10' deep, large double doors and two windows. Storage loft and bench that Mom wants for her little hobbies.

Congrats on the shed! You will love it. I bought a tough shed about 4 years ago or so and I love it, but I understand 1/2 price option and the wait. When I bought mine there were no good options that had a decent build quality. Yours looks like a nice build quality. You will also love the loft...I use mine for large piece storage. I ended up putting insulation in mine and used peg board inside to have many options to hang tools.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The seams make it easier to piece together (repairs) but a solid piece will work as well.

The thinner/smaller wire will work better on the thinner metal. Play around w/some scrap old stuff & do the same on replacement/re-pop stuff when possible. It seems I tend to blow through replacement panels easier on the same settings where older sheet-metal survives the process.

That is great to hear. I assumed that the seams where just there for assembly ease, but thought I would ask.

When I did my "69 I used the .035 and though it worked ok, I had to many blow through's, so I read that .025 is better, takes longer for bigger items, but better overall. I will be playing a bit though to get the feel. I actually bought a Miller Tig to also use if needed on this but mainly for aluminium.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

That is great to hear. I assumed that the seams where just there for assembly ease, but thought I would ask.

When I did my "69 I used the .035 and though it worked ok, I had to many blow through's, so I read that .025 is better, takes longer for bigger items, but better overall. I will be playing a bit though to get the feel. I actually bought a Miller Tig to also use if needed on this but mainly for aluminium.

Thick wire for heavy stuff.
Thin wire for thin stuff.

This lets you play around w/speed & heat settings for optimizing things for the work.

[chev-obsession]

Nice build!!!

Bracing is a must if your doing any sheet metal repair.

If you posting pictures from say an I phone, I find it beneficial to crop the picture a little and they turn out right side up.

What are the odds your from tri cities?

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

Nice build!!!

Bracing is a must if your doing any sheet metal repair.

If you posting pictures from say an I phone, I find it beneficial to crop the picture a little and they turn out right side up.

What are the odds your from tri cities?

lol, same city you are!

[chev-obsession]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

lol, same city you are!

Right on man! Pm if you need parts, help or ever want to meet up!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

Right on man! Pm if you need parts, help or ever want to meet up!

PM sent