1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project

[mr.mud1]

very nice truck,love the colors.

[regan wilson]

Originally Posted by 68 C10 Driver

I got to use the beadlock crimper today to make one of the custom #6 refrigerant lines for the under dash A/C unit. Very easy to do and I will never have to worry about finding a replacement. I am waiting on the #10 hose to come in.

Very nice work.

[68 C10 Driver]

mr.mud1/regan wilson - thanks for the compliments!

[68 C10 Driver]

Interior refrigerant lines made and connected...check. I will secure them up out of the way later in the week.

[big_al_71]

Nice work 👍🏼

[68 C10 Driver]

So, one of the things I wanted to solve was what to do with that hole in the firewall that the clutch mechanical linkage went through (First photo). Unfortunately I didn't weld this up before I sprayed the Lizard Skin on the interior of the cab...doing so now would compromise it and I needed to find another way. I looked for firewall grommets large enough to fill it in and provide a weather tight seal from the elements and heat and cold, depending upon the season. Then I stumbled upon a seal that would attach with either screws or rivets, and that is what I went with (photo 2). Once I installed it, from the inside of the cab, I coated the firewall opening with a 3M two-part heavy body seam sealer and then painted it (photo 3). It looks a bit ugly, but I think I will eventually remedy that.

[68 C10 Driver]

I am currently on a quest to obtain what I think are hard to find parts...currently I have been focusing on the external voltage regulator for the 68. I did order one of those new solid state Tuff Stuff regulators that look like the old mechanical ones like American Bosch, United Technologies, and Delco-Remy made. I guess at one time these were made in the good 'of US of A, but the one I picked up had "Made in China" stamped on it...so I started searching for NOS.

I have been lucky so far and have found 3 NOS voltage regulators. I think this supply will last me until I die, and hopefully when my son or daughter inherit the truck there will be a couple remaining.

I wish there was an American company that would produce these again.

[68 C10 Driver]

I ordered the Custom Autosound 740 radio for the truck. My preference would have been to have an original radio modified for Bluetooth, but that is big bucks. So I went the Custom Autosound route. I wanted something that resembles the old radio, but has the nice features that modern cars have...hands free calling, auxiliary input, USB, etc. When I drive this truck long distance I would like to have the Bluetooth so I can stream my favorites from Sirius/XM. I guess it loos ok, it is way lighter than the original AM radio.

Another nice feature is it will run the 6x9 Cerwin-Vega speakers I have in the truck. It also has RCA jacks if I want to install an amp.

[68 C10 Driver]

So one aspect of the truck that has bothered me was how the lower windshield frame was welded to the inner cowl from the factory. The panels did not align correctly (QA must have missed it) but surprisingly there was no water intrusion at this area. After some massaging the area, I was able to correct it. I guess this truck was built on a Monday.

[68 C10 Driver]

Not a lot of time today to work on the truck, but I did get the A/C hoses secured out of the way.

[68 C10 Driver]

Well today was the first time in quite a while I have been able to do some work on the truck. We have been doing some renovations to the house which has really been tasking my time.

So today I was able to take advantage of some free time and got the speaker wires wrapped in cloth tape and routed from the radio to the back of the truck. I also mounted a USB outlet for the phone and also installed a secondary fuse block for any additional accessories. I also took the time to wrap the rear wiring harness.

[68 C10 Driver]

So today's task was wiring in the radio and installing the cardboard glove box liner. Check and check! I made a small hole for the radio USB connection so if I want to connect an iPod or thumb drive with music I can.

[68isgreat]

Wow. This build is really an inspiration for me, as I'm beginning my build on a similar, and much more rusty, 68 stepper. Awesome.

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by 68isgreat

Wow. This build is really an inspiration for me, as I'm beginning my build on a similar, and much more rusty, 68 stepper. Awesome.

Thanks for the complement. I have to admit I have leaned on a few members here for their input. This community is really great and supportive. When done I plan on going to one of the C10 Nationals events and meeting a few of the forum members and thank them in person.

[68 C10 Driver]

So this past weekend I was able to start working on the truck frame...well more accurately, remove the bed from the frame. All of the bolts had to be cut with my trusty saws-all. The only bolts that would come out were the ones securing the bed end piece to the bed sides. Fortunately I had sprayed everything with PB Blaster ahead of time. I am just going to dismantle the bed to help in clearing off the frame. I will likely get new besides and a new passenger side rear fender. The only thing still holding the bed to the frame are the 4 fender supports.

[68 C10 Driver]

I also started the front end bolts soaking in PB Blaster as well.

[nicklear36]

Really clean cab work, I'm along for the ride!

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by nicklear36

Really clean cab work, I'm along for the ride!

Thanks, welcome aboard!

[68 C10 Driver]

Today I took the opportunity with some slightly cooler temps (84 degrees) and a short lunch break and got the last few remaining bolts out so I could remove the bed. The two bolts holding the tailgate had to be cut, but the side steps and fender supports came loose...either they actually unthreaded or twisted off.

The besides and fenders are going to be replaced as are all the bed support pieces, that it why the bed is situated like it is. I will definitely keep the tailgate and will need to assess that front end piece of the bed. Of course I will replace all of the hardware with stainless steel.

[68 C10 Driver]

Well today's adventure was to get the cross rails off of the frame and to cut the rivets off of the old bell housing transmission support brace and remove that bit of fun. I tried to pivot it after the rivets were punched out...and I beat on it with a 3 lb. hammer and used a 4 foot pry bar. No luck, it wasn't budging. My wife came out to see if she could help and noticed the driver's side had a 2 1/2 inch weld. Damn...I guess I missed that. So a couple seconds with the grinder and it was free. Yea, problem solved...maybe not. I couldn't get that transmission brace out. Frustration kicked in and the grinder came out. 30 seconds of blissful sparking and that was out too. Sometime in the 80s my father-in-law changed the 6 cylinder for a 350, but kept the old bellhousing transmission brace. I want to do it right, and seeing how I will be installing the Muncie M20, I want to use a transmission support that bolts to the tail cone of the M20 and I will use an aluminum bell housing instead of that cast iron one with the mounting points.

I also got the nasty old exhaust removed that essentially was a condo for dirt dobbers.

I will also need to do some repair on the rear bumper, not too badly damaged, nothing a little heat and gentle hammering won't fix. Seeing how it was a painted bumper to begin with and it is beefy, I want to keep it. I will paint it the Old English White the dash and the cab's top will be.

Tomorrow is clean-up and start disassembling the front suspension.

[zicc1835]

nice work keep the updates coming

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

nice work keep the updates coming

I try, things around the house have been busy and my daughter is starting the Fall Softball season here. My goal is at least one or two updates a week.

[68 C10 Driver]

I have been down in Florida on business this past week and unable to do any work on the truck. But now that I am back home, it's time to tear into the front end and start the disassembly. As I am tearing things apart, it has become obvious that everything on the truck's front end is original. Ball joints are still riveted on, upper and lower A-arm shaft assemblies are all original. The end pieces that screw onto the shaft and through the A-arms are impossible to get off. I was only able to get one off.

The A-arms are really beat-up, probably best I replace them anyway. I had to get the saws-all and cut upper ball joint to get the spindle free. Tomorrow I will clean everything up and remove the cross member and motor mounts.

[68 C10 Driver]

Today was productive. I finished taking the passenger side of the front suspension off. I am going to clean all of the parts later to see what is worth saving. The inner and outer tie rod ends are of course shot. The adjuster bar for them is also toast. Since I am going to install disc brakes in the front, the drums will go as will the spindles. I will clean up the center link and the engine cross member and motor mount brackets too.

But before I get to all of that cleaning, I will start disassembling the rear half of the frame and remove the trailing arms, rear coils, rear bumper, and rear end.

[68 C10 Driver]

I have been busy with work and family life this past couple of weeks, so not a whole lot to report. I have been going out each day to wet down all of the remaining bolts, nuts, and anything threaded (brake line junctions) with PB Blaster to aid in removal when that happens this weekend. We have been dry over the past week, and it looks as if that trend will continue through next week as well. Good for me, not so much for the water bill; the grass still needs the water here in the South.