What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

['68OrangeSunshine]

OK Thanks.
I need to repaint my original steering wheel. I've had a SeaFoam Green one on as a loaner,* while I rebuilt the wheel. Now it only needs to get repainted.
But I can't get Fawn easily anymore.
If I go with another shade, I'll have to paint the steering column too. That leads to Mission Creep, and I don't want to 'down' a daily driving work truck.
[*And it looks like hell.]

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

OK Thanks.
I need to repaint my original steering wheel. I've had a SeaFoam Green one on as a loaner,* while I rebuilt the wheel. Now it only needs to get repainted.
But I can't get Fawn easily anymore.
If I go with another shade, I'll have to paint the steering column too. That leads to Mission Creep, and I don't want to 'down' a daily driving work truck.
[*And it looks like hell.]

This is the color .

[72c20customcamper]

Now I’m a little confused looking at older pictures is the door suppose to be this color ? Much darker than the dash

[Steeveedee]

Went looking for grill options for my truck. Replacements are extravagantly expensive, in my book. But a "billet" grille, at $200, looks like a good price. Then there's the concern of mounting, which could be a can of worms. I made a stainless tube grille for my '68 Skylark, but I don't have access to those machine tools any longer.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Went looking for grill options for my truck. Replacements are extravagantly expensive, in my book. But a "billet" grille, at $200, looks like a good price. Then there's the concern of mounting, which could be a can of worms. I made a stainless tube grille for my '68 Skylark, but I don't have access to those machine tools any longer.

Might want to take a close look at those billet grilles. They may make one, but I have never seen one that has or addresses access to your hood latch.

Mine was installed by the PO and the only way to open the hood was lay on the ground, hope you had arms like an Orangutang to reach the latch handle. Someone stated that they made kit, a rod that hangs down to help open it. You still had to get on the ground.

Here was my solution, a chunk of billet aluminum, a milling machine, a die grinder and some JB Weld....works for me!

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Now I’m a little confused looking at older pictures is the door suppose to be this color ? Much darker than the dash

More than likely it's a GMC, they had the tu-tone interiors.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

More than likely it's a GMC, they had the tu-tone interiors.

The picture I posted is of my Chevy didn’t remember the two tone haven’t looked at those doors in years as I got real clean ones . Maybe someone just liked the two tone

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had a shop put on new rear E-Brake cables today. They R & R'ed the rear differential on my '68 C/10 Stepside last week but the E-Bbrake cables on the rebuilt Diff were for a long bed, and mine's a shortbed, so I had to order new cables from LMC. Today, they installed them.

Still need an alignment or frame adjust after getting whacked on right rear quarter in April. Steering wheel needs to be pulled 2 points right to go straight.
Also feeling a little ''lumpiness'' on coasting to a stop from 50 MPH. I hope that's just the new differential breaking in. Diff shop said to run 15 - 20 mile hops til 500 miles elapse, then flush rear gear oil.
I must be rounding the squareness off new parts.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

snip
Also feeling a little ''lumpiness'' on coasting to a stop from 50 MPH. I hope that's just the new differential breaking in. Diff shop said to run 15 - 20 mile hops til 500 miles elapse, then flush rear gear oil.
I must be rounding the squareness off new parts.

I've never heard of this before, do the gears howl, clunk or whine on decel ........

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Jiggers72-GMC

I've never heard of this before, do the gears howl, clunk or whine on decel ........

Nothing audible. It's more a feeling. I think before I got the handbrake cables put on, the shop guy set my rear brakes a little tight.
After a 10 mile run to the shop downtown, he noted the drums were hot. When the left one came off, some black dust fluttered down. He said after a 10 mile run, the heat was normal. [It's also Summer in Tucson.]
Now after the new rear brake cables are on, it seems to glide better. But, after I change out the fuel sender float, I should do another 20 mile break-in run, and listen for anomalies.

[LNP]

If you're talkin rearend gears, transmission/transfer case gears they should never make noise. Now if you are running a coarse tread set of tires they will make noise. Now, I have heard some pretty noisy camshaft gear drive gears make noise like crazy. Especially if they didnt get the idler gears installed right. lol

[Steeveedee]

One exception would be the Muncie M-22, which sported spur-cut gears instead of the usual helical-cut gears. This was done to enable the transmission to handle greater amounts of torque. Noisy, so it was called the "Rock Crusher".

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by LNP

If you're talkin rearend gears, transmission/transfer case gears they should never make noise. Now if you are running a coarse tread set of tires they will make noise. Not I have heard some pretty noisy camshaft gear drive gears make noise like crazy. Especially if they didnt get the idler gears installed right. lol

Tires are highway treads
I took a solid hit in April. Dead center on the right rear wheel. KO'ed my old 12-Bolt 3.73 Eaton posi I had been running since Mid '80s. Made a boomerang of the old Panhard bar. I wasn't sure about the Trailing Arms, so I replaced them for GP. Got new bushings pressed in them and the replacement Panhard bar. A brother Board member helped me out with a lot of stock parts he still had. Only charged me for postage. He lowered his Stepside, so they were surplus to his needs.
So far, I've had the 12-Bolt rear replaced with an open 3.73, new bearings, shims ring gears, axles, etc. The Diff is to be broken in with 15 - 20 mile hops thru to 500 miles. Then I change the gear oil.
I got a new rim on my right rear now. Tire was good. I haven't had the other wheels balanced after the fact. Either the truck wants to pull left, or the steering wheel is cocked 2 points right. I did let go of the wheel for a straight run at about 45 MPH -- it seemed to track straight. But an alignment would not hurt.
Some body panels got jostled. And that's what I might be hearing. Realigned body tin, that hasn't self-adjusted yet. I need to R&R the right rear step fender. I have another '68 fender. Paint is the issue. It's Gold. It needs to become 516 Orange.
One step at a time.

[Sheepdip]

I suggest using all SS Hardware, it will help some what.

https://www.mcmaster.com/ss-star-was...ock-washers-9/

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

I suggest using all SS Hardware, it will help some what.

https://www.mcmaster.com/ss-star-was...ock-washers-9/

It's all SS worried that rust will start on the bracket and ruin the paint eventually

[A1971Blazer]

I had a slight vibration in my driveline....I figure it was about time to replace the U-joint..

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

I had a slight vibration in my driveline....I figure it was about time to replace the U-joint..
Attachment 2215585

That's the way I like my failures: obvious. No reason to even ask yourself if it is bad or not.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

That's the way I like my failures: obvious. No reason to even ask yourself if it is bad or not.

In my defense...I have two Blazers and when we go to a show, or wherever, my wife usually drives this one......
of course she is oblivious to any unusual noises/vibrations.....with the 2000 watt sound system....
When i went to drive it myself last time....I immediately knew that something wasn't quite right....

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

I had a slight vibration in my driveline....I figure it was about time to replace the U-joint..
Attachment 2215585

You got your monies worth out of that one .

[LNP]

Man that had to be sqweeking. I agree definitely got your money out of that one. lol

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by LNP

Man that had to be sqweeking. I agree definitely got your money out of that one. lol

that's exactly what I was thinking too....they usually squeek when they get worn out....but again, my wife drove it most of the time....she wouldn't even notice anything unusual....

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

that's exactly what I was thinking too....they usually squeak when they get worn out....but again, my wife drove it most of the time....she wouldn't even notice anything unusual....

My wife is the complete opposite, even when there isn't a problem, she'll hear something or make it up, but sometimes she's right ...... ugh

[pjmoreland]

I wonder if they installed two LH brackets on your truck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wonder if they installed two LH brackets on your truck.

Just before quittin' time, on a Friday, in Deer Season.
You Betcha!

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wonder if they installed two LH brackets on your truck.

Yup that's what it looks like to me .