Project Vitamin C-10

[Strodder]

Maybe contact Painless, or Ron Francis Wiring. See if they can make a plug in harness for for only the dash. Just an idea.

[Alan's Classic]

I found out the name and number on the sockets "Universal 5/8 Snap-in Miniature Base Light Socket 8524".



There are numerous places for the weatherpack connectors, just have to decide where to order from. Along with that there are so many different ones to choose from here is a link that discribes all types. Anybody have a favorite one they use? Does anyone have a cheat sheet as far as what gauge wire to run in the different circuits?

Example pics. (I will be getting a complete kit with seals and terminals.)

[Strodder]

GM use AC Delco parts and connectors.

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pi...rs/gm/sockets/

[ruffrida2005]

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

If I was to get a painless wiring harness again I wouldn't buy the one that's made direct for our trucks. It's overpriced and you still have to put all the eletrical ends on it. Yes it's easier since the wires are already ran to where they need to go, But to save $200 on a harness and spend maybe 2 hours more on it is worth it.

[daverod]

I glad I have you to follow.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

Good stuff.

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,

O'Reilly has both one & two wire gauge light kits:
part # GA50 (1 wire) by BWD & # 3211 (2 wire) by Auto Meter.

You might check-out the Classic LED stuff at: www.uapac.com

Enjoy watching you work......
Danny

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

GM use AC Delco parts and connectors.

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pi...rs/gm/sockets/

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

If I was to get a painless wiring harness again I wouldn't buy the one that's made direct for our trucks. It's overpriced and you still have to put all the eletrical ends on it. Yes it's easier since the wires are already ran to where they need to go, But to save $200 on a harness and spend maybe 2 hours more on it is worth it.

Thanks for the link. I'm sure there is something I can use there.

Originally Posted by daverod

I glad I have you to follow.

I will get you lost if you follow me. At least you can learn from my mistakes and make yours better.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Alan,

O'Reilly has both one & two wire gauge light kits:
part # GA50 (1 wire) by BWD & # 3211 (2 wire) by Auto Meter.

You might check-out the Classic LED stuff at: www.uapac.com

Enjoy watching you work......
Danny

Thanks Danny for the comments and the PN's. I'll look into them. We have an O'Rileys close to work.

We had 5" of snow here. Now it has turned to ice. Atlanta has been shut down for 2 days now. School is out again tomorrow as well.



I pulled out my Highway 22 kit to see what is in it as far as guage connections go. I pulled out the instructions and their diagram is almost identical to mine. I have to make a couple changes since the turn indictors and high beam are in the speedo. I'll have to add some QD's for the seperate pods. My far left gauge has oil/gen/e brake idiot lights. Next is the temp gauge. Then the speedo. Fuel gauge and then clock.

[Strodder]

Kewl!!

[Alan's Classic]

Since I'm not an electrical guru, I have a question. The black ground wire coming out of the #9 QD doesn't tie to anything. It shows ground points at the gauges but not physically tied to them. What do I do here. I'm thinking just ground it to the dash frame. The gauges are grounded thru the mounts from GM. Suggestions......

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Since I'm not an electrical guru, I have a question. The black ground wire coming out of the #9 QD doesn't tie to anything. It shows ground points at the gauges but not physically tied to them. What do I do here. I'm thinking just ground it to the dash frame. The gauges are grounded thru the mounts from GM. Suggestions......

With out seeing the connectors etc, looks to me like #9 and #10 connect which then supplies the ground, if you are not using the connector #9 to connect to #10 connection then just supply your own ground where needed

[Strodder]

I need to see the whole diagram. Remember that where ever you put that ground it has to be screwed to a non painted surface.

[aggie91]

The black wire coming out of #9 shows to be grounded at each gauge. Where does the black line go to the right of the gauges in the picture? You cut off that side...

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by aggie91

The black wire coming out of #9 shows to be grounded at each gauge. Where does the black line go to the right of the gauges in the picture? You cut off that side...

It continues to the tach and ends there.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Strodder]

Does this help?

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,
My guess, (without physically looking at gauge cluster), would be that with the ground ending at the tach, the tach is mounted in the clusted making contact with 'bare' metal as will all of the other gauges when also mounted. Attaching the ground wire to the dash frame will accomplish the same completed ground circuit. IMO you're more of a 'Lectro Guru' than you thought. As long as the negative post on the battery is attached to the vehicle's frame, the body is making a good metal to metal contact to the frame and the dash has a metal contact to the body the circuit is complete. I have seen 18 wheelers run several thousand mile before experiencing computor module malfunctions due to painted ground terminals. Like Strodder said...

[Christophr03]

Hi. Just joined the forum the other day and read every post in this thread. Three days later, I'm done. Truck is awesome. I just got my first one last weekend. It is a 60 short step. But it was free and almost no rust besides cab floor and door. Rockers look good. Hope to get the kind of detail you have into mine. As far as connectors go, we use those weather packs all the time here at work. No real problems as far as i know. Thanks for the step by step your whole way through this biuld. Keep it up.
- Chris

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Does this help?

Thanks for posting this here. I printed it out a week or two ago when Lakeroadster posted it.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Alan,
My guess, (without physically looking at gauge cluster), would be that with the ground ending at the tach, the tach is mounted in the clusted making contact with 'bare' metal as will all of the other gauges when also mounted. Attaching the ground wire to the dash frame will accomplish the same completed ground circuit. IMO you're more of a 'Lectro Guru' than you thought. As long as the negative post on the battery is attached to the vehicle's frame, the body is making a good metal to metal contact to the frame and the dash has a metal contact to the body the circuit is complete. I have seen 18 wheelers run several thousand mile before experiencing computor module malfunctions due to painted ground terminals. Like Strodder said...

Thanks and I do know a little more than the basics of electricity, but I don't mess with it everyday. That being said this is my first total rewire and I'm trying not to overwhelm my self. I'm sure I can do the harness the way it is laid out, but making changes to it will be where I run into problems.I'm planing on grounding that ground wire to the dash frame and let the gauges ground thru the body of the gauge.

Originally Posted by Christophr03

Hi. Just joined the forum the other day and read every post in this thread. Three days later, I'm done. Truck is awesome. I just got my first one last weekend. It is a 60 short step. But it was free and almost no rust besides cab floor and door. Rockers look good. Hope to get the kind of detail you have into mine. As far as connectors go, we use those weather packs all the time here at work. No real problems as far as i know. Thanks for the step by step your whole way through this biuld. Keep it up.
- Chris

Hey Chris, thanks for taking the time and dedication to reading this complete build. Welcome aboard. Looking forward to seeing your truck.

Looking at the diagram that Strodder posted I'm confused. The tan wires that come from Gen/Oil idiot lights and the temp and fuel gauge all tie together and run to the resistance wire on the coil. I'm confused.......

The american wire kit has a real oil press and volt meter. I will be running idiot lights for the Gen/oil. I would like to run a gauge, but I'm trying to keep the original look of the impala dash. Trying to figure out how I need to modify the new harness to make this happen. The tan wire to the coil is really confusing me. Now that I think about it could it be a power feed????? The tan wire like I said before ties into several gauges. for instance the oil pressure idiot light has 2 wires. One is tan and the other is a dark blue that goes to the sending unit on the impala harness. It has to get it's power from some where and it wouldn't be getting it from the sending unit. So to me that means it's getting it's power from the coil. The light will come on when key is turned on because the sending unit is making contact. Once the engine is started the oil pressure breaks continuity in the sending unit which in turn turns the light out. Am I thinking right??

If that is true then how does the gen light work? It ties to the tan wire to the coil and also ties to the gen. That would equal 2 positives. Where would I connect the wire on the alt?

Just a few of the many questions to come.

[daverod]

I think I'll be happy if I get my key ignition switch to work.

[66BowTieBoy]

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

[daverod]

Damn, it sounds good to me. I think he knows he electrial.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

Well said Danny.

[66BowTieBoy]

A picture says a thousand words:

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

Thanks for the info. That helped clear that up. So connect to terminal 1 on alt? The american wire diagram has a brown wire coming from the #1 terminal on the altenator to the ign switch. It also shows an optional alt reg excitor diode. Seen in pic below.

Originally Posted by daverod

Damn, it sounds good to me. I think he knows he electrial.

Been working on drawing my own schematic for my application. This is pod #1 housing the Gen/Oil and ebrake idiot lights and temp gauge. The QD's will be added to the American wire harness so I can disconnect the individual pods. Am I on the right track?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

A picture says a thousand words:

Thanks again. That really helps with a mental pic.