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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,181
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#2 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Victory, victory!!! but as you can see it took some doin' can someone explain to me how the plastic tube can rust inside an oily valve cover, lol
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#3 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty - New Water Pump
time to think outside the box
ah si, pompa de agua esta aqui strictly optional and won't count against our top end upgrade bottom line, but I must say I bought this $111.00 dollar GM part number 88894341 water pump for $44.99 on eBay with FREE shipping. It is a ZZ4 engine take off, and has never seen water, happy dayz |
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#4 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
speaking of those Vortec cylinder heads, we subject them to the same precision leaky valve testing as the old ones, we do not discriminate people, I don't care what your chamber size or shape is - I'm looking at you Hemi
and I'm pleased to report these were air [ahem] gas tight |
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#5 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
then it was time to show 'em some Wire Wheel Love - WWL
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 711
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Gregski, you have done well saving money by finding some truly great deals for your budget build but, I gotta ask, why did you pay so much for pushrods?
You could have saved over $100 for an example similar to this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-95205/overview/ They are nice pieces for the money and plenty durable for your application. |
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#7 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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#8 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
one side done, on to the other side
I think it turned out great, check out the difference |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,181
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.
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#10 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,181
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#12 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
DIY Head Porting Small Block Chevy Vortec 062 Part 1 of 3 |
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#13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,181
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
When you put your gasket onto your heads and or intake manifold you will see just how bad the castings and how much material can be removed. |
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#14 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
On a serious note, the main reason why I don't intend to port these Vortec heads is that everyone claims they are possibly the best GM cast iron heads, well so lets compare apples to apples. My non ported non polished 882s to these non ported non polished 062s. See how I did that? See how I just got myself out of doing more work, ha ha |
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#15 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Basically the holes of the Vortec head and the holes in the Mr. Gasket gasket do not match up, in other words they are not the same exact size. I wonder how much of that bottom 3/16ths of meat could you grind down before hitting a water jacket, or is there even a water passage below the exhaust port, honestly I don't know, and I'm too skierd to find out, ha ha Last edited by Gregski; 03-11-2016 at 09:51 PM. |
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#16 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,491
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Vortec exhaust ports are raised relative to the header bolt holes compared to conventional heads. The trick is to find headers and gaskets that are "tall" enough. A huge percentage of exhaust flow is at the top of the port so it's imperative not to block the opening. As long as the gasket and header openings are the same size or a little larger than the head ports, you'll be fine. As I recall, 1.5" x 1.5" gaskets will work fine. I used these stock 1997 replacement FelPros on my Vortec heads. ![]() And then raised the ports on my cast iron manifolds. ![]() An old racing trick where rules limit header primary tube size is to raise the headers on the head. Although this covers up the bottom of the head port, that loss is FAR outweighed by the gains at the top of the port where the denser and higher velocity gasses now have more room to move upwards and outward.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Livermore ca
Posts: 699
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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#18 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Midway, NC
Posts: 3,275
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Go Greg go!
__________________
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873 The low buck build threads. Check'em out! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=666022 My build thread Crossmembers CC |
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#20 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#21 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Valve Spring Remover
for the life of me I don't remember what I did with my valve spring remover, I know I had one, so off to Harbor Freight we went, I don't know about your but I struggle with buying expensive single purpose tools, so $13 bucks plus the 20% off coupon you find in every car rag
so little about this tool, out of the box it sucks, it is very consistent in slipping off the springs in its current configuration, so step 1 is to modify it, you kneed to curl up or in the jaws that grab the spring, in my case I used a hammer to bend them in a little bit buttom pic is before modification, you can see the straight claws and how easily they would slip out |
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#22 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
well it was raining out, poring actually so as much as I wanted to take the heads outside to play with them, I couldn't, but I had to do something, you know the feeling
so it was time to test drive that brand new shinny valve spring compressor remover thingie first I show you how bad it sucked no matter what I did in its virgin form |
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#23 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
once I modified it so that it would actually not slip off the spring, I quickly learned that one must grab more than 3 coils of the spring cause that's not enuff to git the retainers out
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#24 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
once we modified the tool, and reached out for more coils, well now we were cooking with propane
i used some needle nose pliers and a small flat screw driver to gently wiggle the retainers out |
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#25 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,835
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Re: Restoring Rusty
so lets seal the deal shall we, I am so glad I was talked into replacing the valve seals, I have never done that before, but let me tell you they were passed it
plus I had to use the vice grips to pull them off, and that pretty much sealed the deal that they aint going back on, all ovalized now and such so one big reason why I just had to take a peak at those seals is that the Engine Specs called for two separate part numbers for new valve seals 10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.) 12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown) have any of you heard of this, can anyone comment please, to me they both look the same Last edited by Gregski; 03-11-2016 at 12:02 AM. |
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