Restoring Rusty

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Jeremy that is music to my ears, I can't wait to try it!!! thank you bud this is the type of great help I have grown accustomed to on this here forum, great group of guys (n gals)

That long tube is so that you don't spill oil all over your valve covers lol.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

if you unscrew the 5 foot filler the cap should screw right in to the cover

Victory, victory!!! but as you can see it took some doin' can someone explain to me how the plastic tube can rust inside an oily valve cover, lol

[Gregski]

time to think outside the box

ah si, pompa de agua esta aqui

strictly optional and won't count against our top end upgrade bottom line, but I must say I bought this $111.00 dollar GM part number 88894341 water pump for $44.99 on eBay with FREE shipping. It is a ZZ4 engine take off, and has never seen water, happy dayz

[Gregski]

speaking of those Vortec cylinder heads, we subject them to the same precision leaky valve testing as the old ones, we do not discriminate people, I don't care what your chamber size or shape is - I'm looking at you Hemi

and I'm pleased to report these were air [ahem] gas tight

[Gregski]

then it was time to show 'em some Wire Wheel Love - WWL

[Jake Wade]

Gregski, you have done well saving money by finding some truly great deals for your budget build but, I gotta ask, why did you pay so much for pushrods?

You could have saved over $100 for an example similar to this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-95205/overview/

They are nice pieces for the money and plenty durable for your application.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Gregski, you have done well saving money by finding some truly great deals for your budget build but, I gotta ask, why did you pay so much for pushrods?

You could have saved over $100 for an example similar to this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-95205/overview/

They are nice pieces for the money and plenty durable for your application.

The Greg is following the Chevrolet Performance 350 HO Engine 19210007 specs shared earlier to the T, once I deviate on push rods I am going to deviate on lifters, than cam, and then I will be lost.

[Gregski]

one side done, on to the other side

I think it turned out great, check out the difference

[enaberif]

I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.

I am home, and I am broke, LOL

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I am home, and I am broke, LOL

It just takes a small dremel bit to do it lol. I'm sure you can afford that

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.

what do you make of this video, not me some dude porting some Vortec 062 cylinder heads from the comfort of his very own computer room, LOL

DIY Head Porting Small Block Chevy Vortec 062 Part 1 of 3

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

what do you make of this video, not me some dude porting some Vortec 062 cylinder heads from the comfort of his very own computer room, LOL

DIY Head Porting Small Block Chevy Vortec 062 Part 1 of 3

You don't have to go to the extremes as this guy... But yes. Essentially you want the openings to match the gaskets so that you get optimal airflow.

When you put your gasket onto your heads and or intake manifold you will see just how bad the castings and how much material can be removed.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You don't have to go to the extremes as this guy... But yes. Essentially you want the openings to match the gaskets so that you get optimal airflow.

When you put your gasket onto your heads and or intake manifold you will see just how bad the castings and how much material can be removed.

I totally get it, but I must admit the entire time I was watching that guys videos I was counting the ways I can muck these heads up, LOL

On a serious note, the main reason why I don't intend to port these Vortec heads is that everyone claims they are possibly the best GM cast iron heads, well so lets compare apples to apples. My non ported non polished 882s to these non ported non polished 062s.

See how I did that? See how I just got myself out of doing more work, ha ha

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

...Essentially you want the openings to match the gaskets so that you get optimal airflow.

When you put your gasket onto your heads and or intake manifold you will see just how bad the castings and how much material can be removed.

Alright so here is an illustration of what my man is talking about, though I am demonstrating using the exhaust ports and header gasket, but you get the idea.

Basically the holes of the Vortec head and the holes in the Mr. Gasket gasket do not match up, in other words they are not the same exact size. I wonder how much of that bottom 3/16ths of meat could you grind down before hitting a water jacket, or is there even a water passage below the exhaust port, honestly I don't know, and I'm too skierd to find out, ha ha

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Basically the holes of the Vortec head and the holes in the Mr. Gasket gasket do not match up, in other words they are not the same exact size. I wonder how much of that bottom 3/16ths of meat could you grind down before hitting a water jacket...

Don't touch the exhaust ports! There is absolutely no benefit in doing so.

Vortec exhaust ports are raised relative to the header bolt holes compared to conventional heads. The trick is to find headers and gaskets that are "tall" enough. A huge percentage of exhaust flow is at the top of the port so it's imperative not to block the opening. As long as the gasket and header openings are the same size or a little larger than the head ports, you'll be fine. As I recall, 1.5" x 1.5" gaskets will work fine.

I used these stock 1997 replacement FelPros on my Vortec heads.


And then raised the ports on my cast iron manifolds.



An old racing trick where rules limit header primary tube size is to raise the headers on the head. Although this covers up the bottom of the head port, that loss is FAR outweighed by the gains at the top of the port where the denser and higher velocity gasses now have more room to move upwards and outward.

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

what do you make of this video, not me some dude porting some Vortec 062 cylinder heads from the comfort of his very own computer room, LOL

DIY Head Porting Small Block Chevy Vortec 062 Part 1 of 3

OOOHHH his wife must love him. The stuff gets everywhere why would you even consider port heads in the house let alone in your computer room. They will never get that out of the carpet lol.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

OOOHHH his wife must love him. The stuff gets everywhere why would you even consider port heads in the house let alone in your computer room. They will never get that out of the carpet lol.

Renter I bet, LOL

[rusty76]

Go Greg go!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Go Greg go!

thanks man I appreciate that

[Gregski]

for the life of me I don't remember what I did with my valve spring remover, I know I had one, so off to Harbor Freight we went, I don't know about your but I struggle with buying expensive single purpose tools, so $13 bucks plus the 20% off coupon you find in every car rag

so little about this tool, out of the box it sucks, it is very consistent in slipping off the springs in its current configuration, so step 1 is to modify it, you kneed to curl up or in the jaws that grab the spring, in my case I used a hammer to bend them in a little bit

buttom pic is before modification, you can see the straight claws and how easily they would slip out

[Gregski]

well it was raining out, poring actually so as much as I wanted to take the heads outside to play with them, I couldn't, but I had to do something, you know the feeling

so it was time to test drive that brand new shinny valve spring compressor remover thingie

first I show you how bad it sucked no matter what I did in its virgin form

[Gregski]

once I modified it so that it would actually not slip off the spring, I quickly learned that one must grab more than 3 coils of the spring cause that's not enuff to git the retainers out

[Gregski]

once we modified the tool, and reached out for more coils, well now we were cooking with propane

i used some needle nose pliers and a small flat screw driver to gently wiggle the retainers out

[Gregski]

so lets seal the deal shall we, I am so glad I was talked into replacing the valve seals, I have never done that before, but let me tell you they were passed it

plus I had to use the vice grips to pull them off, and that pretty much sealed the deal that they aint going back on, all ovalized now and such

so one big reason why I just had to take a peak at those seals is that the Engine Specs called for two separate part numbers for new valve seals

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)

have any of you heard of this, can anyone comment please, to me they both look the same