Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

lets just take a quick look at the #8 Exhaust Valve itself

I see a wire wheel clean up in its future

Beautiful Margin and a Face only a mother could love!

The Russian Judge gives it a Score of: 2.8

[Gregski]

and a quick looksie at his big brother the #8 Intake Valve

we shall clean him up too and see what lurkes beneath that black carbon cloak, what are you trying to hide Mr.

[lkfldredneck]

The primitive tool for the valve springs.. Holy. Ive been graced with having a pneumatic valve spring compressor, and thought the hand powered lever action ones were primitive haha good work man. Cant wait to hear it running again

[Valarius_Starchaser]

The umbrela seal is like this

The others are viton seals and look like this


Watch where you place the longer arm on the tool it should be on the lower coil side of the spring that will give you the most "compression" of the spring also a magnet helps get the locks out if they are caked in there from years of abuse

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

The umbrela seal is like this

The others are viton seals and look like this


Watch where you place the longer arm on the tool it should be on the lower coil side of the spring that will give you the most "compression" of the spring also a magnet helps get the locks out if they are caked in there from years of abuse

thanks bud, I ended up getting these

[chevybuldr]

The L 5 3 on the back of the block and also similar on the heads is the casting date. The 010 is the casting number for the block. The numbers on the head surface pad is what makes it specific for your truck. The left number should match your vin. The number on the right is prefix code that tells where and when it was assembled and what exactly it was power wise.

Word of caution on those heads, the vortec heads are known for cracking. It would be a good idea that you have the heads magnafluxed for cracks. The surface on them also is very crude. You really need a very true and flat surface. I would highly suggest a visit to your local machine shop. Having things done now is a lot cheaper then being bent over the fender doing it a second time. This is not my shade tree opinion then is my machinest opinion. I have seen more then my fair share of them.
You have a great build thread going on just read thru it, keep it up love a budget build. Great save on an old truck.

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

The L 5 3 on the back of the block and also similar on the heads is the casting date. The 010 is the casting number for the block. The numbers on the head surface pad is what makes it specific for your truck. The left number should match your vin. The number on the right is prefix code that tells where and when it was assembled and what exactly it was power wise.

Word of caution on those heads, the vortec heads are known for cracking. It would be a good idea that you have the heads magnafluxed for cracks. The surface on them also is very crude. You really need a very true and flat surface. I would highly suggest a visit to your local machine shop. Having things done now is a lot cheaper then being bent over the fender doing it a second time. This is not my shade tree opinion then is my machinest opinion. I have seen more then my fair share of them.
You have a great build thread going on just read thru it, keep it up love a budget build. Great save on an old truck.

Throw some black paint on the heads mating surface grab a flat chunk of steel and throw some sandpaper across them. You'll know quickly how flat they are.

[Troy Sr]

Just ready your whole thread fun read. Make sure to replace those steel freeze plugs with brass while the engine is out!!! Subscribed

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Troy Sr

Just ready your whole thread fun read. Make sure to replace those steel freeze plugs with brass while the engine is out!!! Subscribed

Thank you for reading. I'm trying, two I already did while on the truck, didn't use brass, but plan on using brass from now on, went to AutoZone the other day and they only had one plug, it was brass, but only one, so I bought it.

Today I went in to a different AutoZone on my way home from work, and they too only had one brass freeze plug, so I bought it.

It's not easy! lol

[Gregski]

and here is how the Mr. Gasket gasket holes match up with the HOOKER 2452 Competition header holes. Pretty good, but maybe they could use a little grindage also, but its risky, as you could cut through the weld and there are thinner walled pipes behind there.

[Gregski]

Gentlemen riddle me this:

What are these two small threaded holes for in the back of the engine block one behind each cylinder head?

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Gentlemen riddle me this:

What are these two small threaded holes for in the back of the engine block one behind each cylinder head?

Those are for the spark plug wire loom holders.

[Jake Wade]

Greg, do not remove any material from the bottom/floor of the exhaust port. Doing so will actually hurt flow.

Felpro 1444 fits the stock Vortec exhaust ports well.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Greg, do not remove any material from the bottom/floor of the exhaust port. Doing so will actually hurt flow.

Felpro 1444 fits the stock Vortec exhaust ports well.

Thank you Jake, I will check it out.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

Those are for the spark plug wire loom holders.

thank you kindly that helps, much appreciated

[enaberif]

Silly Greg I wasn't talking about that side lol. I was talking about intake manifold sides.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Silly Greg I wasn't talking about that side lol. I was talking about intake manifold sides.

sorry I assumed and gathered from the video that people port and polish both the intake and the exhaust ports.

[Gregski]

got the driver side cylinder head all cleaned up just need to disassemble it next to clean the valves, I think it cleaned up pretty good, the black spotting you see that's just black paint from when it was factory painted and not grease

[Gregski]

just a little stare and compare at the way she looked when I got her and now after a short wire brush session

I should show a similar comparison of me before (clean) and after (dirty) after I transffered all the grease and grime from this head and on to myself

[Gregski]

got the crank pulley cleaned

[Gregski]

i liked how it looked all raw and shinny so I got this bright idea that I would just clear it and see how it holds up, I had some Dupli-Color Engine Enamel paint left over, so why the heck now, right?

what do you guys think, in terms of lookability and durability?

[chevybuldr]

I would highly suggest that you reconsider that. Unless you plan to lap the valves in, getting valves to seal again once they are removed is a very large c*** shoot. Even lapping valves in you will have problems. After running, the valves have mirror image to the seat. They do not spin they just move up and down, open and closed. You are opening a big can of worms on this. I have seen this attempted numerous times by customers. One valve you may get lucky but 16, you will be chasing your tail.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

I would highly suggest that you reconsider that. Unless you plan to lap the valves in, getting valves to seal again once they are removed is a very large c*** shoot. Even lapping valves in you will have problems. After running, the valves have mirror image to the seat. They do not spin they just move up and down, open and closed. You are opening a big can of worms on this. I have seen this attempted numerous times by customers. One valve you may get lucky but 16, you will be chasing your tail.

thanks, I have always been told that they spin/rotate a little at least?

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thanks, I have always been told that they spin?

If you look at your old heads (882) they have rotators on the exhaust valves. These were meant for smog reasons to help cool the valves from the smog pump. AKA make the valves turn to help create less emissions. If you look at your new heads all the retainers are the same. It was a theory that the valves were rotating always, and while some might move a little, it pretty much stays in one spot. About the only real time you will see a valve move/spin is under valve float condition.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

If you look at your old heads (882) they have rotators on the exhaust valves. These were meant for smog reasons to help cool the valves from the smog pump. AKA make the valves turn to help create less emissions. If you look at your new heads all the retainers are the same. It was a theory that the valves were rotating always, and while some might move a little, it pretty much stays in one spot. About the only real time you will see a valve move/spin is under valve float condition.

Thank you very much for that detailed explanation. The engine specs I am following do call for two different types of valve seals, one kind for intake another for exhaust, would that have something to do with your explanation.

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)