Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

more shots of the Vortec cylinder heads

[Gregski]

alright Greg, I think we get what cylinder heads look like, ha ha

[Gregski]

dude seriously? more pics of these stupid heads

I also took the Head Bolts since I did not know if they were going to be different kind then my old ones, I had to pay for these, they charged me $5.00 bucks total for all of them

I realize you are supposed to use new head bolts as they supposedly stretch, but hey this is a budget build, and I aint made of money, so I hope to clean these up real good and use new goop of some kind on them

[Gregski]

I also took the valve covers GM part number 12355350 off of the same vehicle since the Vortec heads use center bolt valve covers not the old style with bolts around the edges, and yes I also took the valve cover bolts, I showed them to the guy and he said I could just take em fer FREE (hey man, this stuff adds up real quick)

cost $21.00

other than the 5 foot filler neck on one of them I think they might could work out

shoot, I think you saw these when I showed you the bath of parts, oh well

[Jeramy]

if you unscrew the 5 foot filler the cap should screw right in to the cover

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

if you unscrew the 5 foot filler the cap should screw right in to the cover

Jeremy that is music to my ears, I can't wait to try it!!! thank you bud this is the type of great help I have grown accustomed to on this here forum, great group of guys (n gals)

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Jeremy that is music to my ears, I can't wait to try it!!! thank you bud this is the type of great help I have grown accustomed to on this here forum, great group of guys (n gals)

That long tube is so that you don't spill oil all over your valve covers lol.

[Gregski]

time to think outside the box

ah si, pompa de agua esta aqui

strictly optional and won't count against our top end upgrade bottom line, but I must say I bought this $111.00 dollar GM part number 88894341 water pump for $44.99 on eBay with FREE shipping. It is a ZZ4 engine take off, and has never seen water, happy dayz

[Gregski]

speaking of those Vortec cylinder heads, we subject them to the same precision leaky valve testing as the old ones, we do not discriminate people, I don't care what your chamber size or shape is - I'm looking at you Hemi

and I'm pleased to report these were air [ahem] gas tight

[Gregski]

then it was time to show 'em some Wire Wheel Love - WWL

[Gregski]

one side done, on to the other side

I think it turned out great, check out the difference

[Jake Wade]

Gregski, you have done well saving money by finding some truly great deals for your budget build but, I gotta ask, why did you pay so much for pushrods?

You could have saved over $100 for an example similar to this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-95205/overview/

They are nice pieces for the money and plenty durable for your application.

[enaberif]

I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

dude seriously? more pics of these stupid heads

I also took the Head Bolts since I did not know if they were going to be different kind then my old ones, I had to pay for these, they charged me $5.00 bucks total for all of them

I realize you are supposed to use new head bolts as they supposedly stretch, but hey this is a budget build, and I aint made of money, so I hope to clean these up real good and use new goop of some kind on them

I would not re-use Vortec cylinder head bolts. According to the `99 FSM they have a torque sequence and then you need to do a final angle in degrees using a torque angle tool. That usually means they are Torque-To-Yield.
If you re-use TTY bolts you'll end up with broken head bolts and/or leaking head gaskets just like the 1970's & 1980's Oldsmobile and VW Diesels.

The damper is probably OK but if the ring looks cracked or pushed unevenly out of the slot you need to replace it. I replaced the dampers on my Diesels with Fluidampers but smallblocks dont beat the snot out of a damper like the 6.xL AMG engines.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Gregski, you have done well saving money by finding some truly great deals for your budget build but, I gotta ask, why did you pay so much for pushrods?

You could have saved over $100 for an example similar to this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-95205/overview/

They are nice pieces for the money and plenty durable for your application.

The Greg is following the Chevrolet Performance 350 HO Engine 19210007 specs shared earlier to the T, once I deviate on push rods I am going to deviate on lifters, than cam, and then I will be lost.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I hope you plan to port match the heads and intake :P Go big or go home sir.

I am home, and I am broke, LOL

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I am home, and I am broke, LOL

It just takes a small dremel bit to do it lol. I'm sure you can afford that

[rusty76]

Go Greg go!

[Gregski]

for the life of me I don't remember what I did with my valve spring remover, I know I had one, so off to Harbor Freight we went, I don't know about your but I struggle with buying expensive single purpose tools, so $13 bucks plus the 20% off coupon you find in every car rag

so little about this tool, out of the box it sucks, it is very consistent in slipping off the springs in its current configuration, so step 1 is to modify it, you kneed to curl up or in the jaws that grab the spring, in my case I used a hammer to bend them in a little bit

buttom pic is before modification, you can see the straight claws and how easily they would slip out

[Gregski]

well it was raining out, poring actually so as much as I wanted to take the heads outside to play with them, I couldn't, but I had to do something, you know the feeling

so it was time to test drive that brand new shinny valve spring compressor remover thingie

first I show you how bad it sucked no matter what I did in its virgin form

[Gregski]

once I modified it so that it would actually not slip off the spring, I quickly learned that one must grab more than 3 coils of the spring cause that's not enuff to git the retainers out

[Gregski]

once we modified the tool, and reached out for more coils, well now we were cooking with propane

i used some needle nose pliers and a small flat screw driver to gently wiggle the retainers out

[Gregski]

so lets seal the deal shall we, I am so glad I was talked into replacing the valve seals, I have never done that before, but let me tell you they were passed it

plus I had to use the vice grips to pull them off, and that pretty much sealed the deal that they aint going back on, all ovalized now and such

so one big reason why I just had to take a peak at those seals is that the Engine Specs called for two separate part numbers for new valve seals

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)

have any of you heard of this, can anyone comment please, to me they both look the same

[Gregski]

lets just take a quick look at the #8 Exhaust Valve itself

I see a wire wheel clean up in its future

Beautiful Margin and a Face only a mother could love!

The Russian Judge gives it a Score of: 2.8

[Gregski]

and a quick looksie at his big brother the #8 Intake Valve

we shall clean him up too and see what lurkes beneath that black carbon cloak, what are you trying to hide Mr.