1963 C-10 in NC

[1963c-10]

Thanks for the help Mark. I ran into the same issue myself. I looked in the 63 book and got the same answer. I use new lock washers, and my thinking is that if it were to come loose, I think I'd rather a nut fall into the housing than a 2" bolt, so I think I'm going to reverse it tonight. I've always run the bottom two bolts through to help line up the trans on install, but I've never really paid much attention to which way they came form the factory or if there was a "correct" way to install them. Ive also found a lot of reference pics online, but they all show something different. Half are through the bellhousing and half through the transmission, so maybe I'm just being over picky about it.

[TJ's Chevy]

Thanks Bud, What company do the part numbers belong to?? Meaning are they from a place like Classic Parts or are those factory???

[1963c-10]

Those are the original GM casting #'s. None of the 3 have ever been repoped, so you'll have to look for an original part. They pop up on ebay quite a bit also.

[1963c-10]

Picked up a factory sway bar off ebay for $25.00.....pretty good deal. Ordered a set of sway bar brackets from CPP for $24.00 part # 6372SSB (stock height), they have them for lowered trucks also. I will order new Moog bushings once I measure the bar. Should be 15/16" if factory I believe. My truck didn't come with one, but I plan to install. Any advice on the install will be appreciated. I hope there is no issue drilling a arms on the ground.

[markeb01]

Mine was a little easier than yours, because the lower control arms that came with the 75 front suspension were already drilled for the end brackets. I think the rest of the same procedure I used would work just as well. The truck needs to be on the ground with the suspension loaded so the control arms are in the proper orientation. Rest the ends of the bar centered on top of the lower arms, and rest the center of the bar on a floor jack.

With the frame brackets bolted to the inner bushing brackets, jack the bar into position until it touches the frame. After insuring everything is square and centered, mark the frame with a scribe or felt marker and remove the bar and brackets.

Because of clearance with the upper control arms it may be difficult to drill the lowers with anything bigger than a 1/8” pilot bit. After that you may need to raise the truck and drill the lower arms from below. Rather than using increasingly larger drill bits, I recommend using an inexpensive step drill like the kind from Harbor Freight:



They slice through frame thickness material far easier than conventional drill bits. And unless you like dealing with squeaks it's probably better to stick with rubber bushings instead of urethane.

[1963c-10]

I had read your thread and the comments about the urethane bushings and had planned on using the rubber ones from MOOG. I appreciate your help on the sway bar install and I will post pics of install. Im waiting on the bar to arrive, ordered the brackets today from CPP and will have the bushings enroute once I can verify the thickness of the bar. I think your right on having to raise the front end once Ive drilled pilot holes in the a arms & I think the drill bits above will do the trick just fine. Harbor Freight is 5 min from the office so I'll stop by there tonight. Thanks again for the help.

[1963c-10]

Another milestone done. Completed the shifter install kit to finally complete the trans assembly. Was just a miracle that I found a NOS Hurst mounting kit for the T-16 transmission. Hurst said it was only made for a few years with very low production since they were only used for a few years. Install kit was complete minus the shifter, which I had, so no biggie anyways. I have the install kit for a saginaw/muncie 3 also that I wont need anymore, so it'll end up in the classifieds. I'll post some pics of the Hurst Diagrams for the install kit tomorrow in case it'll help anyone else.

Anyways....heres the finished product. Factory V8 bellhousing converted to a hydraulic clutch mounted to the Borg Warner HD 3 speed (fully synchronized), and a hurst Master Shift to top it off. I have a Hurst boot to finish install in the cab. I used grade 8 bolts wherever possible and i'm satisfied with the end result. So now I can get back to dressing the engine and plumbing it.

One more note on the shifter mount. It bolts where the transmission tail mount is and goes around the tail shaft. Alot of the kits bolt to the main case using the tailshaft bolts. This shifter mount is solid.

Just FYI...the input shaft is 10 spline w/27spline on the tail shaft. Total transmission weight w/o fluid, bellhousing, novak kit & shifter is 92lbs

[1963c-10]

sway bars in and its 15/16. seems to be an odd size according to all the parts catalogs, but another member had the same size stock in his truck also, pulled up an old thread and found he used a moog k8792 which is what my research lead me to also
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[TJ's Chevy]

Those sway bars should help with understeer quite a bit. I am going to get a pair for my truck cause every time I go around a turn at 55 mph it feels like the back end is sliding when its swaying. Just shows its an old truck! I haven't been able to call the guy yet on the fender but I will soon. My project has been at a stand still for awhile. Thanks. T.J.

[1963c-10]

The fun part will be drilling all the holes as my truck did not come with one. I went out and mocked it up a little last night, but am waiting for the two frame mounts to arrive from CPP. I know a lot of people have had issues with them, but Ive only had positive dealings so far. And I would think the mounts are pretty straight forward to make. Bushings were ordered this morning, so should see them shortly also. This will give me time to clean & prep the sway bar. I did find a carrier online this a.m., posted it on the fender mounted carrier thread (looks to be for a long bed). Ill take good pics of the sway bar install.

And I have more than my share of projects on the backburner, so your not alone there.

[Ta2Don]

Trans and Shifter set-up are Rockin'...

[1963c-10]

Thanks Ta2Don. My factory 4 speed column part will be in this week, which is the last part I'll need when I do the swap on the trans. That way I don't have the shift arm bump on the column anymore.

Lots of work, paint, grime and of course $, but I think its come out good. Cant wait to get behind the big block with the 3 speed....should be a fun ride.

[1963c-10]

Found another poster brochure that I already have, but I wanted a 2nd copy to get framed and hung. Its about 36" x 12" and has all the various models in color. A very cool poster for 63

[TJ's Chevy]

It will be cool with that big block in there. You are gonna give the 6 cylinder a proper burial right??? If you do a 1 inch drop in the front and a 3 inch in the rear it will level the truck and will look really nice, and I'm not a fan of lowered trucks, and that's if you lower it. I think it would look good with 33 inch tires on there. That would fill up your fender space so you won't have the big gap in the front. I put 30's on mine. Are you gonna change the gear ratio since you running a 3 speed?

[1963c-10]

The old 230 will go to Sharps40. He lives about 30min from me and we have done our share of parts swapping. I'd guess knowing him I'd stay tuned to the modified 6 cyl thread as I think hes looking to beef one up a little.

I hadn't planned on lowering it. I do have big block springs for the front, and I want to put the weight of the new engine & trans on the new springs before I make any decisions on ride height. Right now I'm running 235/75R15's.

My current gear ratio is a factory 4.10 and I still have the factory MC318 3 speed installed. I'm not sure what the 1st gear ratio is off top on that trans. I have two borg T-16's with different gear ratios, so more than likely if I don't like the 2.41 1st gear, I can always put in the one with the 2.86.

[TJ's Chevy]

Okey, yeah those bb srings should help. An easy conversion would be 3/4 ton springs, you would be able to haul alittle more weight and those would handle a 351 v6! 900 pounds or something like. It looks good stock height, and the heavy motor should smooth up your ride a little.....until you jam it

[1963c-10]

I believe the big block I have probably weighs pretty close to that, so we will soon see. Probably be in the spring now with the colder weather starting to creep in. I just got done building my carport, and the trucks new shop is next. & with all the different mods going on at once, I'd like to do the work inside. My list will be:

1st - get rear posi installed
2nd - front end off
3rd - clean up front end, prep the engine bay
4th - crossmember swap & disk brake swap & hydraulic set up on fire wall & sway bar
5th - new engine & trans assembly
6th - reinstall new front end sheet metal.

The posi conversion I will be doing soon. But with the truck being my daily driver right now, I'll be commuting with my girlfriend for what I hope is no more than 2weeks to get the other work done. I have to trim the frame rails a little, but I believe I can do that with the 6cyl in it now. So hopefully my long hours of prep and getting parts squirreled away will help pay off and make the different swaps go on time. Ive tried to cover every base I can think of as far as gaskets, bolts, plumbing issues...and I have assembled a book with all the instructions and fact sheets I will need for to help assist. Only time will tell

[TJ's Chevy]

Cool! Your are making great progress!

[1963c-10]

Slowly but surely.

[TJ's Chevy]

If your interested Classic Parts I believe sells a rear sway bar, then the back end of the rig won't feel like it's slipping back and forth. I got a spare tire fender. Couldn't pass it up for $50. Here's a picture.

[1963c-10]

nice score especially for the price. looks to bed a long bed carrier, but it'll work w/no issue. you will have to drill a hole in it for the carrier to pass through like the short bed fenders had. its an easy fix. i used a jaguar firewall grommet on the hole and then ran the rod through it. i posted pics on the thread i believe, if not, i can get some for you.
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[1963c-10]

if you can manage the carrier, you can do the conversion in about 3-4 hours. remove the rear fender, install the spare fender, mock up the carrier, mark all the holes to drill, remove the carrier & fender, drill the holes, reinstall fender & then carrier and your done. i also figured out a pretty cool lock for the tire that will fit under the stock caps using a corvair locking lugnut and a corvette lock. best part is they are all period correct gm parts. its on an earlier page here in my build....let me know if you have any questions on it.
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[TJ's Chevy]

Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.

[1963c-10]

no problem at all.
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[markeb01]

I can't wait to see the engine/trans in place, and here your feedback on how you like driving it with all that torque compared to the inline 6.