57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

I know its hard to see from a pic ...
so heres a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LI6MN8g44dA

I think clearance is almost ok - might need to shave a few things ... and exghuast wrap on l;ast header tube.

BUt the "flop" of the double joints. It could be just because IM trying to hold it ... but heck ... no way to mock up without welding it in. And wouldnt think there be that much resistance I couldnt hold it (Its clamped at bottom).

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

BUt the "flop" of the double joints. It could be just because IM trying to hold it ... but heck ... no way to mock up without welding it in. And wouldnt think there be that much resistance I couldnt hold it (Its clamped at bottom).

I was going to suggest eliminating the center joint, but I see you did that in the video. U-joints are in proper phase, but there's still too much operating angle in the system. Maybe time to take a Sawzall to those headers, kinda like this guy did:

[FAKKY]

So .... been mucking around with this a bit. I got it much better and have an idea to make it work - guess only way to know for sure is to do it.

1st major problem is I had the steering shaft too far into the backside of ujoint. That made it bind. It was only "just " hitting ..... but enough to prevent enough rotation ... therefore giving more wobble when it contacted.

2nd is -- as its a double ujoint it sort of wants to expand/contract for lack of a better word as it rotates. With the support bearing in middle of shaft allows it to "slide". Just enough to create a small wobble/bind.

I need to get the support bearing right against the backside of the ujoint .... or even better probably one on each backside .... on the topside....

[FAKKY]

Well.. I think what I said would have worked - but I didnt have a 3rd support heim and couldn't buy locally.

So I took it all apart and tried to simplify by doing a longer run with just the DD. Its tight clearance and the angle is probably as far as I would want to go with a single joint (middle black one) ..... but it doesnt bind and works well.

talk about 2 days of frustration ......
I think the 1st joint should have been just a single ujoint of the steering and THEN done a double ujoint back ..... bur man ..... who knows .... I had this think in every which orientation but back twice on sunday.



Thanks MiraclePie.

[FAKKY]

Note to self.

1)Never ever (ever) do brakes again after the engine is in the truck.
2) always do a mockup with wire first just like you read ....

[FAKKY]

ICT billet AC relocation. Nice kit.

[dsraven]

wow, that is some kinda steering shaft linkage you have going there. how much outta whack is a straight run from the column to the rack input? have you tried a broom handle or something like that to see if you can get away without all those joints? more joints = more trouble. rotate the rack possibly? different headers possibly?
can you remove the headers and mock up a steering shaft that works then see what kinda headers you could use instead of those ones possibly?
the center shaft need to have support at each end to keep the other shafts from allowing it to move like that.
what is the rack from? possibly a different option there for angle of the input?
like said previously, a shorter column would bring the rear upward and possibly allow the shaft some more room around the headers. you could easily try mocking it up by removing the shaft from the column and moving it up some at the rear, inline with the column.
I think what you have is going to be prone to flopping/binding as things wear a bit. could spell catastrophe at highway speeds.

[FAKKY]

Thx dsraven.
For not I have pulled the steering linkage out ...... not sure which pic you were referring too ... but yeah the multitude of joints made it hard to control rotation.

Right now I have it where its basically similar to #292. The 1 double ujoint at the stereing column side, 1 ujoint at the middle and 1 at steering rack. With the right support bearings around the middle ujoint ..... it rotates free and clear of all suspension travel.

Its a dodge dakota IFS - so the front rack is from one of those and bought it as part of the original kit. I don't love the fitment (of the RA&P - rest is good). ...... but assumed there was nothing better.

I'll be re-circling on that effort when I weld everything into place. Make sure to loop back as appreciate any concerns especially safety ec.

[dsraven]

not sure of what your rack looks like and it's mounts but possibly you could rotate the rack some to line up the shafts better on the column. before you start that support the tie rods with some sort of jig so their relationship with the steering spindles can't change. possibly some L brackets tacked to the cross member and some hose clamps attaching the tie rods to the brackets would keep the tie rods in place so the rack could be rotated. then loosen or remove the rack mounts and rotate the rack to see if things work better. lots of guys have notched the cross members on trucks to accommodate a steering rack or line up a column. a few pics of that area would be good as well, maybe somebody would have an idea. basically, you need to get rid of all the u joints you can in order to make the system work. otherwise you need to support the intermediate shafts at both ends of their shafts so they become a steady point and can't allow the system to start the "flop". otherwise possibly pull the column into the cab to make a longer run for the first shaft and also raise the start point of that shaft at the rear. if you find that could work then you may need a shorter column or rewrk the column you have to be shorter.

[joedoh]

a double joint is used for angles over a certain amount, you need a standard u joint at the column. it looks like you are using it as a joggle to clear the header. i dont like doubles except on extreme angles over 30

I dont envy your setup, it looks like you are threading the needle with the only places you can put shafts through. dont be afraid to go further out over the control arm to get a straighter shot to the rack.

[dsraven]

how about pulling the column into the cab and try the angles with the shorter stub protruding into the engine bay. it may bring the cab end up so you can clear the headers. if it works then the shorter column may be easier than doing all the shafts and bearings and other spendy stuff. you may be able to shorten the column if required, ort sell it and get one thats a bit shorter.

[FAKKY]

ok - today was a bad day - truck wise.

Took a couple months of - just out of a mix of things really - life.
I spent all day trying to relearn tig welding ..... dealing with 15mph+ winds..... multiple burns and cuts.

Decided to tackle the steering again. I know the routing in the pics below is the only route I can go angle wise. I thought if I got the steering shaft support right behind the single ujoint in middle .... then it couldnt shift back and impact the double ujoint. Well i tried and not sure what it was .... heat pulling the metal, bad fitup, something else .... I ended up with it around 1/4" off the back of that joint once tight .... which mean the ehol shaft could move back towards column same amount .... and "crimp" up the double ujoint.

PIcs.


This is good routing - clears EVERYTHING by 1/4 inch or more.


Here after tack welding and tightening .... the support is 1/4" too far back behind joint backside .... so shaft can move....

results in .....



Look at top double ujoint at column 'now its kinked and difficult to turn' dangerous.

I think i have to throw away the double joint off the steering column like Joedoh said above and go with a single 1" to 3/4 DD .......regular joint.

But its driving me crazy - cant think how other poeple would run the double off the column - as ANY movement -- in the shaft or column itself could result in the same deal.

I need a beer.

[FAKKY]

Well getting a few things done.

Did what jodoe/drsraven said and pulled the column back, got rig of the double joint at the column which was creating a bunch of issues and ended up here with straight rod, 1 single support bearing and all angles at between 30-36 degree's. No binding.











USed those measurements as well as this website to determine final angles

https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/angle_measurement/

....

Mocked out my PS lines ........ with my chicken strathc


And then as e015475 suggested ...... I replaced all fittings with JIC/6AN [16/18mm x 1.5mm] .... and ordered hydraulic hose from discounthydraulic hose which all came in like 3 days delivered to hose. Super quick.



Got the Radiator in with a little bit of trimming.




Now need to wrok on fan and shroud ....... them get it plumbed with the transmission cooler lines as well as coolant.

Getting closer to first start at least. Oh yeah fixed and finished bulk of my ls wiring ... obviouusly still a lot more to do ther ewith teh chassis wiring and connecting it all up properly to starter/battery and lights/gaauges etc.

[joedoh]

woop woop! nice work!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

woop woop! nice work!

lol - right now I feel like its a few of you guys on here building my truck - not me ..... but I'll take it in order to get to the finish line.

[joedoh]

its easier to edit than it is to create, you are creating!

[FAKKY]

So this is my final fan clearance. Its tight - but I think its ok - thoughts ?





A "little" anxious if there is going to be enough fan also ....... was a cheap ebay special I got cheaper in a package deal with shroud.

Basically one of these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RA...AAAOSw6WJdk7ib

[dsraven]

I guess the other thing you could do is try a double fan unit so the motors would be offset from the centre, maybe give more room since the motors and the water pump wouldn't need to share the space. you would want to check clearance with engine torquing up as well.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I guess the other thing you could do is try a double fan unit so the motors would be offset from the centre, maybe give more room since the motors and the water pump wouldn't need to share the space. you would want to check clearance with engine torquing up as well.

So as long as I cycle the suspenion -- and it doesnt have any interference - should be good ?

Think im going to need to get a straight water thermostat housing.....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-4932/overview/





Tried about 3 hoses I thought might work from auto parts store .... even with cutting its only a 50/50 chance.

[dsraven]

you could always use some bent up aluminized muffler tubing and use rubber/silicone hose at the ends where the connections are. otherwise cut the housing and turn the outlet/inlet and have it welded back on and leak tested.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you could always use some bent up aluminized muffler tubing and use rubber/silicone hose at the ends where the connections are. otherwise cut the housing and turn the outlet/inlet and have it welded back on and leak tested.

Looked at cutting the housing like you said .... couldnt see a good way to get a clean cut with a 4.5" saw or a plasma cutter ..... so went with this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...72.m2749.l2649

Finished off my main fuel line and also my transmission lines all in 6AN ptfe.
Bought the adapters (6an/ntps on transmisison side and 6 an 1/2-20 on transmisison cooler side).

Fuel neck filler also.


So once that all arrives ...... get it all plumbed in and thasts basically the plumbing done. Might be getting closer to to a hotwire start.

Probably going to buy one of these over the vintage air. They are local.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-KIT-UNI...kAAOSwCWRcBv23

I already have the compressor too. So should be a good price. Not sure about those hoses with ferrule fittings - but they say they work.

"This kit includes a complete FITTING SET
With FERRULES and CLAMPS
(We include both systems No special tools require DIY)
Clamps (made in the USA) Support 300Psi (Tested)
"

[dug224]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

So this is my final fan clearance. Its tight - but I think its ok - thoughts ?

The back of my radiator cooling fan ended up about as close to the engine as yours. No problems so far. I'm running a late model corvette radiator sized for a 6.0 liter engine with no shroud and one electric fan similar to yours. Also added the condenser with two pusher fans and the engine stays right a 210 degree F on a hot day with the AC running.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dug224

The back of my radiator cooling fan ended up about as close to the engine as yours. No problems so far. I'm running a late model corvette radiator sized for a 6.0 liter engine with no shroud and one electric fan similar to yours. Also added the condenser with two pusher fans and the engine stays right a 210 degree F on a hot day with the AC running.

Awesome.


I debated on Vintage Air and deciced to go local (because they are local) and cheaper.
Supposedly this gives 22000 BTU versus the Vintage Air Gen14 (18000) or Heritage heat/coool (12000). Obiously Im sure the numbers are all over the place for everyone.



http://coldmasterinc.com/product/ac-...no-compressor/

[FAKKY]

Got those innner fendor mounts cut up to spec per your post dsraven .... they look good ..... so thats awesome. I really cant say enough about this product ....

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...caAraSEALw_wcB

Obviously limited to slightly thinner material .... but for most of what I need ... awesome.

Those grommets are WAY expensive. Wonder if I can use/find some thick rubber somewhere. $15.

https://www.ebay.com/i/312050055902?...oaAp8sEALw_wcB

[joedoh]

put the serpentine belt on before you get excited about a hose that fits! experience talking here.